It's a pretty simple fix as shown in the vid, only prep was ordering the part and having the right tools.

I used stage 2 E30 in the vid but now just stage 2.

I just reread, I was on stage 3 xHP, and 2 E30 MHD.

From where?

Not sure if there's a steering wheel in this vid, but I have an off-brand 300mm suede wheel, and an OMP 300mm leather wheel.

I don't remember for sure. You'd have to get the specs on the cam and requirements for your build.

@@BoostedorNA DC called and said 40° was the move

Yes. The NA build is running strong on stock returnless fuel system with rdx injectors making 242 to the wheels. Thanks. I hope to make videos soon...trying to get all my belongings in one location again.

I'm between Vegas and Phoenix at the moment. I pieced together a quality turbo setup for maybe $4k.

If memory serves, when you put it in sport mode, the valve will open, and when you turn off the engine it stays open and doesn't close until you start the car again.

I've daily driven it on stage 2 e30 with stock hpfp for about 4 years now with no problems, both in Nevada (91 octane) and in Florida (93).

Yes, the hpfp is the limiting factor in my setup, however, I wouldn't waste money on a hpfp without a turbo upgrade.

Thanks! I researched some return-fuel setups and pieced together what I thought would work. I can review and make a parts list.

No, I sold the turbo and fp and looking at the dorch 2.5 and a DAW...gotta sort out a few things first tho.

Thanks! I don't know, I never got the oil catch cans. I wanted them but never tracked the car so left everything stock. My car is garage kept and only had about 35k miles when that happened, so the oem reservoir really is crap.

It's at a shop for an alternator change and dyno tune. Hopefully it's done soon!

I made a spreadsheet but can't find it. I sourced some used parts, so original cost was around 7k with LSD install, all swap parts, odds and ends. Later, 9k total to work out the bugs and upgrade weak points, and finally around 11k total to go from stock to basically full bolt-ons. The next mod planned for the NA is a high flowing head and custom 3" exhaust in hopes of seeing >260 whp. She currently sits at 242/209.

I considered selling, got an offer but no follow through.

I don't remember, but I used stage 2 for a while before going to stage 3.

17x7 front, 18x9.5 rear

Not yet. I may get to it later this year, and maybe get the new higher flowing dorch "2.5" and go full e85.

I went to Vegas for a family emergency and ended up staying long term. Just trying to get settled so I can get back to it.

@@BoostedorNA Totally understandable. Hope all is well and take care.

Thx! I'd like to know how your 1.8t swap goes!

Delayed...I'm away from the cars.

Duraflex TD3000. Open and inspect before allowing the delivery driver to leave!

I think so, first for parameters, then tunability.

Thx, that'd be nice! I enjoy doing it, and it would be a nice source of extra income!

I don't know anything about the z1 but there are other channels that have mentioned swapping that engine.

kzbin.infoF0_iJdSbN8A?si=XBd5RxX0gCMvmjYJ

About $8-10k plus car depending on which brand parts, new vs used, etc.

@@BoostedorNA thanks man 👍

Thank you! I try to show the good, bad and the ugly!

I'll do next time I'm in there. Haven't driven it much or opened the hood in months.

I let everything stay equally dirty so the dealership know I didn't touch it 😉

Initial estimate with car $11k, then another $3k for more power and suspension.

www.mitchsautoparts.com/products/map-mr2-spyder-k-swapped-tucked-engine-harness-w-charge-harness-v2

Any reason?

Yeah there were better ways to do it i found out afterwards. Could have saved a lot of money. I'd be turbo for the same amount.

​@BoostedorNA speaking of that do you know which intake manifold is best for boost for a street car?

I'd imagine any that are well made, good runner and plenum size. I'd prob get skunk2 ultra race vs s2pro if I did it all over again but I'm running a cut/ported rbc on my turbo car.

242hp 208tq

@@BoostedorNA I was close on the hp… hey are you going to make a video about it one day🤔

I just checked and you're the closest! I am, but the footage is limited. I was packing/moving so I just dropped it off and picked it up. It's got a hiccup at 4500 so I was gonna reshoot while they fix and test it.

Only a business account, Fitfiniti. DM me and I'll see if I can help.

320/328s are common. I don't see 335s at all, and maybe a couple 340s per week.

I don't have instagram. The rears were 18x9.5 Enkei Kojin, 45mm offset if I remember and 5x100 lug pattern. Tires are 255/35 Hankook Ventus. These were pulled from my Celica GT-4 just to see how they fit and I liked the look of the wide tires and concave wheels so much I ran them for about a year.

@@BoostedorNA do they rub at all?

Yes but I raised the back (coilovers, still looked low), maxed stiffness and had rear sway on 3rd of 4 stiffness and rubbed seldom.

@@BoostedorNA I see . Thanks for the information

Thanks. By my calculation, my initial k swap was a little over $1k more than a 2ZZ, due to the higher price of low mileage 2ZZ/6spd.

No idea!

Just sport mode if I remember, someone specified cold start. You can try installing it the opposite way. Some said I installed it backwards compared to other vids but it still works the same.

@@BoostedorNA thanks and I’ll try again.

@@BoostedorNA thanks mate, I managed to do it with your help.

Definitely rips! The k24 with fbo is a nice leap over the 2zz.

I wish the Spyder came with the 2zz, otherwise I’m not a fan of swapping it in for reliable competition use (no personal experience, but seen lots of failures). The cost for engine/6spd is so high you’re nearing a budget K swap, which is pretty reliable after a few shakedowns. My budget K24A with the 219whp dynojet tune surprised many cars from a dig (I managed 4.99 0-60) so I wouldn’t doubt sneaking up on STi's… the light weight, mid engine and rear drive does wonders. (As a previous WRX owner, they’re not fast or reliable…Sti’s are marginally better.) I’d research which Toyota motors are capable and which aren’t and go from there. @FrankensteinMotorworks is doing wonders with the 2GR and 2AR. My NA 219whp budget K swap was around $8k, then roughly $10k buying things a second/third time, then modding it up to 241whp brought it up to about $12k. I did all the work myself (friend installed LSD) so I saved a lot on labor. Tell me your budget, hp goals, and goals for the car I’ll give you my opinion for which route I would go.

​@@BoostedorNA hey man. appreciate the reply. Sorry, this is long; Staying well clear of V6s in a car this cramped. Too bad the spyder isn't a clamshell like the old british roadsters were where you could sit on the tire and change plugs lol. I took a look at his website, it's interesting to say the least, it sounds like other than the 400whp GR, the AR remained 180 at the crank? Actually, I bought the MR2 coming off the frustration of being unable to find anyone really trying to make the mx5 faster/stronger as far as product research goes. like they used to. I had an old 04 NB for a brief while and I probably should have built that. But at the time it was the same story (only about 210whp and then it falls apart). except the ND is worse while simultaneously being the more rigid/better newer car. because now it's either V8 or bust. So that one is my daily now. Found the MR2 last year in March and despite the age differences (even compared to my 04 NB which was 3 years newer), It's a superior car overall to both and I'm pretty much hooked. almost as quiet as the 2021 ND, but WAY quieter than the 2004 NB with stock suspension and my MR2 is on coilovers. both cars are hardtop and my ND an RF. The only reason I don't sell the ND yesteday is because I already made the mistake of buying it.. lol Might as well wear it in. it's a 4th vehicle and it's a new vehicle.. That said, anything I do to the MR2 I want to be something vastly unfeasible for the ND to replicate or compete with. I played with the idea of the 2zz turboed but we discussed why that's probably not looking so hot. As for NA, I basically have a "2zz" experience in the miata, minus a few thousand rpm. Cost benefit isn't there. I wanna get an experience closer to my old 240 (power wise), if possible. AND without all the rust (the reason I sold it) Which brought me to your channel, actually. Being that the car is mid engined and almost 600lbs lighter than my S14 was. (my s14 was exceptionally long geared though. J30 rear end and Z32 trans. it was fairly lazy on the freeway unless dropping to 3rd, and then going to jail). I don't need mile high gear ratios like i had in that, but people say the MR2 could give me that experience with 250-300whp. But I never felt one to verify that. Basically, everything points to the K swap being the only way I can satisfy these goals comfortably. Especially with boost. The car is currently set up for autocross. almost to the T of how Togue Time's car is (minus the 2zz.). Same wheels, tires, fortune auto 500s, whiteline bracing and an alignment that took countless visits to the rack to make perfect. I don't like autocross. I'm 32 years old now and I'm not so interested in knocking over cones and getting good reaction times. I just want what my old 18 year old self would have wanted, had I known the MR2 spyder was so much better than all my previous cars as a concept. A street monster in a tiny package that greatly reduces the number of people bullying it out of the onramps or from highway rolls.

I agree on the V6. I wouldn’t want anymore weight in the back than the current K-Turbo. The AR 4 cylinder was around 240whp and I think there was possibly 270 and a future goal of about 350. Now that you mentioned, I haven’t noticed any big power NDs, just track wheel/tire and suspension mods. RF is sweet tho. I’m actually looking to mod an old used aftermarket hardtop to make it something like the Solstice GXP Coupe. The best thing you can do is get on Spyderchat and see if there’s anyone near you with a K swap and try to get a ride. 242whp/209lb-ft in a NA Spyder feels almost scary fast. There's power everywhere and literally throws me back just stabbing the throttle. Follow my Turbo K build. It’s almost done but hit a few hitches, namely me moving to Vegas. Currently, @Autosauce is finishing it and will tune, but they found a few issues and are fixing.

@@BoostedorNA Just remembered to ask this question; how OEM does your K swap feel? and your overall experience with it's daily driveability/smoothness. Can you just get in and start it like your stock motor? no problem? run AC and heat just fine etc? I refrain from mentioning my 93 supra (due to the internet clout surrounding it). But it was the only car I ever owned that started up and drove as close to stock as possible with a haltech. the only issue it ever gave me (and still gives me) is every now and then when driving on pump gas, if i come to a stop using AC it will die or hunt. but simply hitting the button off before coming to a stop or going into neutral will keep it perfect. My 240 with 300 less whp used a much more primitive power FC and the cold starts were ass and idle sucked until you hit operating temp. if the water temp got below i'd say 140 degrees or so it would idle choppy and die if you didn't keep your foot down. AC didn't work. maybe it was my tuner, maybe it's just that PFCs suck. But whats your turn-key experience with the K swap. does it "feel" like a swap? weird idles, cold starts, choppy throttle, weird grindy noises, vibrations etc?

NA is rough due to Innovative mounts but it was always intended to be a track car. Turbo is OEM smooth with stock mounts and was meant to be DD. I can jump in and drive both with no issues. The turbo will have AC, NA does not but I may if I bring it to Vegas. I never had to use heat in the NA (Vegas and Florida) but I do think it worked based on how hot it was when bleeding the coolant. Did you check/remove/replace the idle up or vacuum switching valve (VSV)? It caused the same issue on my Celica GT-Four. I steered clear of the PFC. I went AEM, and then MSPNP, which I regret. Not many tuners care for Megasquirt. My first swap felt perfect during warmup due to the high idle. Once warm, it gets down to 900ish rpms and you can feel and hear it on the passenger door and glove box, sometimes the engine cover. When stuck in traffic, it gets annoying. I can raise the idle to 1100 and not really experience that much but 1100 feels like I'm resting my foot on the gas...I don't like that. They're almost equally annoying. I adjusted the throttle with no slack so tip-in is aggressive, which I liked with 219/185. With 242/209, it's jarring off the line so I'll loosen it a bit. Initially, if you use innovative mounts, you'll want to drive 50 miles and check all nuts and bolts you installed and tighten. You may even find that you lost some on the drive. Repeat offenders will need loctite. The turbo with stock mounts doesn't have these NVH issues, and I never noticed any nuts/bolts coming loose.

I did, keeps the alternator and big intake manifold from making contact. 15 seconds sounds like maybe an ECU problem or something wrong in the wiring harness.

@@BoostedorNA Yeah, I was leaning toward maybe the harness. Ill let the shop know to check it out.

Did you see any of the other vids? It's k24 swapped, baselined 219whp and modded hoping for 250ish...not quite gutless. More tire is needed to combat oversteer.

I did but the alternator died on the dyno. A friend said he's sure it'll make 245-250 wheel. I'll try to get back to the dyno in a few weeks if it's not too busy. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gX3FemCNm7aaraM

I'm using a MAP cable on the driver side, 25% thicker.

tractuff.com/products/tractuff-vtc-limiter It's running great, just gotta finish the tune!

It’s a 3/16thx1 dowel pin. Save yourself some money

@@BrokeVetGarageappreciate you bro