Actually the wheel is not that heavy. Too much mass is difficult to accelerate. What makes the machine so smooth is in first the swiss precision full metal mechanics.

You're welcome! Of course I can do that! I'm happy when I can help another Class 117 - owner. Video is online, see in my channel-list. I hope it helps!

You mean the lever that moves vertically while sewing? As a replacement-part it's probably impossible to find, like (meanwhile) other parts for that machine. I've extracted this part from that machine and sent it to Australia, to a guy who also had a 117 with that piece broken. It was very difficult to extract (that's why it was still in place as I recorded that video) I had to use brutal and destructive forces (hamer, chisel, blowtorch, angle grinder,... ) to get that thing out the machine - and it will be even more difficult for the guy who needs to replace that part into a machine that should be working after the "surgery".

Here in Switzerland, they are not seldom or expensive. In condition like this one (*) they sell around 50 to 100 bucks. I even found one to pick up for free. Just a brilliant sewing machine! * this is pretty ("average") good but not outstanding original vintage condition. Just cleaned and oiled / unstucked her. Nothing repainted, polished or replaced. Okay, the treadling belt and the rubber for the bobbin winder had to be replaced, but except of that, those machines are built to last. (Btw: I have a 217-Industrial standing next to this one, but most time I prefer "the Brauty" over "the Beast")

Unfortunately I don't have a plan or drawing how to reassemble, this machine was in first a parts donnor (hand wheel, stitch- and side plate, thread tensioners,...) but I have got a tipp anyway: when I assemble things that are difficult to assemble, sometimes a small magnet can help keeping 2 parts together and in position during the montage process. Good luck!

Yes. Almost "too good to slaughter" condition, but she was the one I found cheap, in most worse condition. Parts of that machine have already helped reanimating (or at least completing) 6 other 117's! Hand wheel, take-up lever, stitch plate, slide plate, knee lever mechanism, tensioner for bobbin winding, tension disc for top thread tensioner and the knob for lowering the feed dogs are now serving in USA, Australia, Germany and Switzerland.

That's mostly made on the 217.

Ja. Nicht ganz ungefährlich (rutschig) aber die Leute wissen ja alles besser...

I don't know where they are from. I've bought that pistol used and the wooden grips have been on when I bought it.

That cabinet was made in the late 80's by my brother (RIP), he was furniture carpenter. The Bernina 117 was available in 10 different original cabinets, some are very similar to this one, but without the glass in the door.

Depends on how it's used: No engine likes cold start at full throttle and without any load (or with too much load). If You run it carefully, at least in the first few running cycles, it will certainly thank it by smoother/stronger run and longer lifetime. This machine has no steam valve, so the power must be regulated by (steam pressure) the amount of heat You give to the boiler. And of course the Tuning I gave to the machine also helps her running better than new: except of the boiler insulation I've meanwhile also isolated the steam tube by wrapping it tight with 1mm diameter briaded hemp cord. That also looks very nice!

The support pins that hold the motor case on the machine's body side plate are adjustable horizontally (there are some worm screws holding them in place) and the friction wheel on the motor axis can be adjusted vertically. But here the motor is disabled anyway: the white cord pulls against the leaf spring which normally pushes the motor's friction wheel to the hand wheel.

Die, die da schön rot ist: Das ist genau die, von welcher ich Dir ein Stück gegeben habe. 😁 Du weisst also sehr genau, wie scharf sie wirklich ist. 🥵🥵🥵😄 P.s. Gemäss meinem heutigen update bin ich optimistisch, dass noch ein paar mehr reif werden. 😎 Wahrscheinlich nicht alle, aber viele... dann kannst Du gerne nochmals ein Stück (vielleicht eine ganze) haben; ich selber brauche nur sehr wenig davon.

@@SH1974 o jaaaa

Just uploaded a Video that shows the fire pin. I hope that helps.

You're correct: a pistol should not be fired dry, but also she should not be stored with tensioned spring. A dilemma. If I could, I'd use a de-tension lever (like eg. the SIG 220 or 239 has) but this Norinco hasn't. Or hold the hammer and release it slowly to protect the fireing pin. But the hammer is inside the pistol and can not be held. That's why this pistol must be able to handle one dry shot every few weeks (after cleaning her). And so far, she is.

​@@SH1974 I learned how to release the tensioned spring without hurting the firing pin from the veteran who sold me this beautiful gun. Slightly pull back the slide (about 1-2mm), hold it there, and pull the trigger. This makes the firing pin not able to hit the breech. By the way, thanks so much for showing me how to assemble the gun. It took me 15 minutes and I could not figure it out - until I found your video. Good job!

@@SamInCanada Yep. That's how I do it on my Ruger Mark2. and on my Colt Woodsman.

Hi. Sorry the late answer, I have not seen Your comment before. "My System"? Do You mean the lantern I use this candles? If so, just seek KZbin(*) for "Swiss army folding candle lantern" , You'll find several examples of the cute lantern I'll use this candles in. (* don't seek in my channel, I haven't uploaded a video of mine.) The metallic can is just a tin to hold dripping wax and there is a metallic funnel above (the thing I heat up with the torch) to get the lower section of the cutted candles (see part one of that videos) flat top molten to a tip and uncover the wick to lite the candles.

Indeed. Very easy to dis- and re assemble. It's also a nice pistol for newbies/guests on the range, probably a dozen of guests (so far) have made their first shots ever with that pistol.

You're welcome! I mentioned in "1957Shep" 's video: It's an easy to clean pistol. 😎 P.s. I forgot to mention: I'm left-handed! If You dis- or reassemble Your Norinco Pistol, You'll might hold it with Your right hand.

Vielen Dank 👍

No, the motor and its guide pins to hold the position are working well, but there is no mechanism to dis-clutch its friction drive to the hand wheel, for treadling the machine. That's why I use a cord to pull the motor to the machine body - against the force of the the leaf-spring that pushes the motor's hard rubber wheel to the hand wheel. P.s. did You check the guiding pins that holding the motor. If a worm screw (that holds the pin in position) is loose and the pin is loose, the motor can wobble.

Ditto. I would be very interested too, in the knee lever specs

@@ammelois talk about excellent timing! I just made a replacement lever for mine literally three days ago, and i can pass on what i learned. The lever is 8mm or 5/16” steel rod, theres a slight chamfer on the end that goes into the machine. There is a 3mm thick by 12mm long pin inserted through the rod 15mm from the end. I dont have the exact measurements on the bends, but it bends a few degrees to the right a few cm after coming out of the machine, then it bends back down under the table at an acute angle. I just went back and forth between my machine and a vise to bend it so it was out of the way for the most part and had clearance to fit under most tables at the distance i place the machine down on. Then i just marked the point where my knee met the rod tucked under the table and bent the remnant into a sort of loop shaped paddle. A 4 foot long rod of 5/16 steel rod was what I used as I didnt have access to metric, and the pin is from an old broken 3mm drill bit. I simply cut a portion of the unspiraled back end, rounded the ends a little and pressed it into the hole with some solder for good measure. I plan to put this machine in an industrial table especially if i can find an industrial treadle for it and at that point would probably convert it to use an under the table knee mechanism but for right now it works perfectly and is a game changer.

It's not the same style socket as the newer Berninas have (the newer have less diameter) , but it's not complicated to rebuild: The lever itself has a diameter of 8mm, the pin has 3mm diameter and 12mm length. It sits 15mm from the levers end.

@@SH1974 Thank you so much for the information. It seems like something I can make easily enough once I get the proper steel rod and bend it to shape.

​@@emilyrobinson6080 You're welcome. There are another Bernina 117 videos in my channel where You can see the lever better than here. I've got 2 of those levers (because I've got two 117's), they are slightly different shaped. My brother-in-law also owns a class 117, he made a knee lever by bending a simple piece of rebar in a vice, using a hammer. He used a nail as cross-pin. Because the nail pin can not be hardened, he decided to make 2 pins. They sit about 10mm and 17mm from the lever's end. He smoothed/rounded the rebar only on the section that fits in the machine roughly with a file. That doesn't look very original, but (kind of cool, Steampunk) who cares? It works properly! P.s. be warned: Once You get used to the "FHS" function, You don't want to sew without it any more!

@@SH1974 i normally sew on a treadle machine, though have had the pleasure of using a similar device on an industrial electric machine when doing some work in a costume shop a few years ago and ever since have found myself reaching for a lever that isnt there with my knee. Its part of the reason I chose the 117 when one became available to me, even though they can command some high prices here in the US. The size footprint of a domestic machine, the unrivaled precision in its construction and the fact I can buy needles for it in bulk from industrial suppliers are all excellent but the free hand system is what sold it above other machines of comparable quality. I can get steel rod easily enough, i believe making a slight chamfer on the end and drilling a spot for a pin would be simple enough, though given the fact I sometimes put this machine in a portable case vs in a cabinet, Im considering making something similar to older knee-controlled Berninas or Elna machines, where the lever is in several sections that fold out, to facilitate storing it inside the lid of the case. Regardless of what I end up doing in regards to construction, I very much appreciate your information as while the 117s are rare in this country, the knee levers for them are nigh nonexistant and being able to see and hear what an original is like is invaluable. Ill be sure to check out those other videos as well!

There is another Video in my channel that shows the lever. In the comments there are the measurements of it. It's easy to make such a lever, my brother-in-law has made one of a piece of rebar and a nail. ;)

Thanks for asking! I'm in Taranaki and have just acquired an almost mint 117k! Looks as if it takes the same bobbins and knee lever as my 540 Favorit.

Yes, I still own it. Ther is another video here on KZbin (probably a russian member) which shows the manual. This machine is too different to explain without a manual... ;)