Thank you! It's often just a matter of personal preference :)

Aww, thanks so much! I love that piece of music as well :)

You're so welcome!

Good question! I place the pumpkins out for pick up on 'green bin' day (when organic waste is picked up by our city) along with any leaf and yard waste. To save some or all your mums, here is a good article on overwintering mums in pots: www.phelpsnurseryusc.com/caring-for-fall-mums/

You can use any hoop you wish for your project. Many people use the embroidery hoop as to use in the finished piece (as I've done many times) because it adds a charming, unexpected element to the final project. But you can choose to use brass or any other hoop that you prefer. The sky's the limit, as they say.

So glad I could help!

Hi Karen, Yes, you are right. If you are only using plain weave and/or only weaving round and round in circles, you should warp an uneven number of warp strings. I was remiss not to mention that. Thanks for the correction. (However, there are many ways to weave using a circular 'loom' including weaving horizontally, weaving in sections, etc, in which case, it does not matter as much. It all depends on one's preference and design.). Thanks for your comments, as I'll need to correct that in my instructions in the future.

@APrettyFix I weave different techniques also and incorporate plain weave, I have noticed there are many videos on circular weaving, however not one,yet, has mentioned the odd number of threads. Of course then the warping and calculations of where warp strings would be placed would be different. Don't feel bad lol. I have 2 books that don't mention it either. HAPPY weaving!

Hi Kathleen, The measurement should be the same for every row you make. (So, for 1 row it is 7-8 x the width, but if you want to create 2 rows then you need 14-16 x the width, etc). But, of course, if you are running out, it may be that you are creating tighter knots when going in one direction (thus, using up less yarn) than you are in the opposite direction (thus, using up more yarn). You may have to experiment just a bit to determine the right amount of yarn. Also, keep in mind that macrame yarn comes in varied forms (some are softer, some are tougher), so that the measurements suggested are just guidelines to get you started.

@@APrettyFix Thank you! Would you by any chance have a similar pattern you could share for a wall hanging?

@@kathleenwarner5325 sadly, no I don't, or at least not a tutorial that I can point to. I do have a large walling hanging I made that is essentially an enormous coast (of sorts!) that uses the same design and same knot patterns. Let me know if you'd like a written instruction here and I'll gladly share what I can :)

@@APrettyFix I would love the instructions thank you so much 🙂

@@APrettyFix Would love instructions on the enormous coaster when you have time - thank you!

Glad you found this tutorial easy to follow! In answer to your questions: 1. Whether you hang or place on a table or board is entirely a personal preference. I don't think one way is easier than the other. If I were to choose...I prefer making small macrame on a table/board and large pieces that hang. 2. You need to alternate the starting point whenever you begin a new row because it prevents the coaster from twisting in one direction. (If you started each row without alternating, you would eventually see that the knots would begin to twist the coaster, rather than keeping it laying flat). Hope this helps!

Hi Barb! This is purely opinion as I don't use a rigid heddle loom: It all depends on your style preference. If you want a scarf with fringe, then stick to using the hemstitch as this will allow you to leave a few inches of warp beyond the stitch to create a bit of fringe. But if you prefer no fringe, then go with the half damascus as this will bind off the edges (no need for a hemstitch). That said, if you prefer the look of the hemstitch AND don't want fringe, you will need to add in one extra step: be sure to weave the remaining warp strings (that extend past the hemstitch) back into the scarf as a final step. The hemstitch itself does not bind off the edges like the half damascus stitch does. Experimentation is all part of the fun. Good luck!

I typically use 1mm warp string, 100% cotton for all my weaving projects.

Oh no! Here are my thoughts: If you are going to throw them in the washing machine (instead of handwashing), then I would recommend one of two options: 1. Try using fabric glue on those last knots to prevent them from unraveling. Make sure to look for fabric glue that is safe, non-toxic and is machine-washable. For example, there is a glue called "Aleene's OK To Wash-It" glue that is safe to use on fabrics/fibers and is machine-washable. Aleene's is a well-known brand, but I'm sure there are plenty of others on the market. And just to be on the safe side, use the delicate cycle as well. 2. If you don't like the idea of using a machine-washable fabric glue, then you might want to consider tying each of the knots with a thin, thread to secure them. I hope one of these options works for you. Let me know how it turns out!

I used craft paper that I happened to have on hand. The paper is slightly thicker than printer paper/copy paper or letter-writing paper, for example. But not by much. Card stock (in my opinion) would be too thick for a project like this. The craft paper you use should still be very flexible. Hope this helps!

lol! Perhaps you're right. It's a silk bow and quite soft and loose - not for everyone :)

Awww, thank you!

Thank you - and you're welcome!

Thank you! So glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thank you! I like adding depth in my projects as well. It sounds like you've got some lovely yarn to work with. Happy weaving :)

You're very welcome. It's nice to have flexibility/options that go beyond knots. Glad you found the tutorial useful!

You're welcome!

Thank you! I hope you do - they provide such a lovely, handmade addition to any holiday decor.

The surface area is approx. 4.5 inches X 5 inches (not including the fringe).

Great idea - I've been wanting to share some of the updates I've made (including yarn storage). It's on the list!

Thanks for letting me know! It's helpful to get the feedback. Definitely on my radar :)

Great idea! I could see this pattern used in so many applications.

You're welcome! Happy weaving :)

That's nice to hear - thanks so much :)

Unfortunately, when I made this video, I seem to have cut it short, but you may have some luck if you look up other weavers who demo the same stitch. Kelly Casanova comes to mind (here on KZbin). Hope that helps!

That's the biggest compliment - thank you :)

@@APrettyFix can you help me source supplies? I’m recently retired and enjoying my artwork time. Thanks.

@@susankaplan4557 absolutely. Are you a complete beginner or do you have specific supplies that you are looking for? Let me know and I'll pop in some relevant links to get you started.

@@APrettyFix I’ve been plagued around but I’d say beginner. I am mainly using up scraps from my knitting stash but I need more texture, thicker yarns etc. Thanks so much.

@@susankaplan4557 here are a few sources/suggestions: Besides heading to my local craft store (like Michaels), the best place to find thicker yarns is on Etsy (Etsy.com) simply because of the sheer variety of shop owners who sell a large variety of yarn thicknesses, including unique handspun varieties. I will list a few shops and then suggest search terms that usually help me when I'm looking. SHOPS: LoomAndFibre (that's my Etsy shop): loomandfibre.etsy.com I sell bulky yarn and roving. It's a very small batch right now, but you may find something there. UnfetteredCo on Etsy: unfetteredco.etsy.com The owner is a macrame artist, but sells yarn that you can use for weaving, including handspun and chunky yarn. Divinity Fibers on Etsy: divinityfibers.etsy.com She has lots of varieties, including thicker and variegated yarns, and roving, too. TIPS for Searching On Etsy: I will typically go on Etsy and search for "super bulky yarn" or "chunky yarn" or "art yarn" and a number of options pop up. Not all are useful, but I've discovered some great shops that I would not have known about, otherwise. Oh, and something I'm just now exploring is searching out "Core Spun Yarn" on Etsy. As you'll see, there are a wide variety of thicker yarn with texture. This is just a start, but I hope it's useful :)

Good question. I would be concerned about that as well. My opinion? Be sure that you are catching parts of the weaving (just past the half damascus edge) as you stitch the pieces together. This will ensure that the pieces do not have a chance of pulling apart.

Thank you!

I have not tried this on coasters, but I don't see why not. It's a good, solid technique that's sometimes used for rugs, which get a lot of wear and tear.

You're welcome!

The easiest method that I can think of is to knot the warp strings (2 at a time) along the bottom and then weave them back into the rug by burying the warp strings. This won't create a finish, but it will be a fringe-free rug that works as a double-sided option. Here is a sample link that shows the fringe-free option plus a couple of others, too: yarnworker.com/finishing-tips-for-rugs/

Thank you!

You're welcome! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video (warts and all!). I have a small collection of weaving videos here as well as several tutorials on my blog as well as a full Weaving Basics course in my Etsy shop! Lots to choose from and explore. Wishing you a lovely week :)

Thank you so much! That's so kind of you to say. I have a small but growing collection of videos here as well as various blog posts on my website, and an entire Weaving Basics Video course offered through my Etsy shop. You could say I am a bit of a weaving nut ;) But I love sharing all that I know. Take care!

Thank you 🥰

You're very welcome! Thanks for your feedback :)