Rosen flux contained within high-quality leaded solder is pretty much inert and non-corrosive; rosin flux that is separate from the solder isn't corrosive either, BUT if you are buying solder or flux direct from China via Amazon, ebay Bangood or AliExpress it's usually junk and the flux might be of the highly acidic, corrosive type used for soldering sheet metal and water pipes. The special fluxes contained within, and designed for use with, lead-free solder are also corrosive, and traces of leadfree must be thoroughly removed for long-term reliability of the connections (isopropyl alcohol will remove most fluxes, but some leadfree fluxes wash off with with water). Another possibility is that the inslation of the wires, which is often PVC or some other chlorine-based compound, may start to react chemically with the copper, especially after the wire and insulation has been heated. Some cheap quality wiring will outgas or leech chemicals from the insulation and cause internal corrosion where you can't even necessarily see it. Anyway, your best recourse is to buy brand name solder, flux, and soldering-iron tips from an authorized electronics-specialty distributor in your home country. Amazon and the rest are often non-transparent as to who is actually selling and shipping the solder; shoddy, fake and counterfeit solder and soldering products are everywhere on the internet. I will also add that unless you are selling the products you make, there is absolutely no reason for a hobbyist to be using lead-free solder, which is extremely difficult to work with and has a higher melting point than leaded solder, and is much less forgiving about the quality and cleanliness and oxidation layer on the parts you are soldering. Leaded solder is not toxic unless you are chewing on it, and the fumes (flux vapors) may be mildly irritating to your nose but they will not give you lead poisoning. Solder in a well ventilated area or use a fan to blow the fumes away. ( The fumes from lead free solder and its attendant special fluxes are far more caustic to your sinuses)..

@goodun2974 thank you for taking the time for an indepth answer. 👍

@@pierregauthier3077 , I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years, including 2 decades as an audio equipment repair tech; as a kid I was mentored by other, older electronics experts, and since I can't take what I've learned with me when I croak, I may as well help others out while I still can. By the way, I have a couple of soldering-related videos on my channel; and there's a series of soldering videos on the PaceWorldwide KZbin channel that you may find helpful (they're friom the 1970's, very old school, but extremely detailed; one of their videos is about soldering similar connectors to what you see here on this channel, except that the soldering techniques shown in this here video are decidedly substandard ).

SORTED

It's been so long I can't remember the exact numbers - but it fast enough to not feel like you were waiting long.

If you search flexible brush in Ebay, something will come up. Can't remember if that is the ones I used though.

I think I bought them from eBay - don't think I've got an active link though. Might have to do some trial and error with current sellers.

I think I had a similar problem - you might need to add a reverse movement away from the sensor once they are triggered, otherwise the controller will think you have an error. Not sure, though. It'll probably be something in the homing or config code.

The company should have a forum and workflow somewhere to ask. Maybe on reddit or facebook but be descriptive with what the problem is.

That knowledge is long gone now from my mind, sorry.

"Plan to run each stepper motor at between 50% and 85% of its rated current."

docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_choosing

Plywood is fine, I use ply wood on my CNC frame and I'm able to take 4mm cuts with a 1/4 endmill with a 500w spindle. Mostly with these machines all the worl is done at the endmill, the better spindle you have ( fast it spins) the better cuts you get and the less cutting forces on the tool head assembly.

I think it's a micro USB if I remember correctly.

Thanks it is a micro USB.

unfortunately not.