Salut! Am un radio BMW Bavaria C Bussines cu displayul stricat si fara code. Oare se poate face ceva cu el? Am vazut si videoul tau despre adaptatea cu bluetooth si as fi interesat

Not the upside up JBL logo💀💀

mother f**k :-) Thanks for the video

voiding warranty on opened things is level 10 shitty

My ol lady builds tiny doll houses an i use these to put lights in them for her! Rechargable and very small. Just perfect for tiny things that need electric!

Nice video ! Could you give details about the wiring on the ble (brake and accell) to get no error on the bench ? Thanks a lot

So how do you switch back and forth between CD and bluetooth?

Just found your channel - Excellent Content - Another sub for you sir!

holy shit it works, but why? piece of shit would load DVD's but not games down + X + down + down + down + X + left + X + circle (eu version) infinite legal beatings of wifey in tekken 4 unlocked

I comment in a video you made about Xiaomi pro 2 a long Time ago plz go answer me

How many watts it's going to be with that and what is going to be the top km speed? Thank you

Hello, amaizing info but how did you boost the speed on this scooter ? Thanks!

Damn you helped me alot, thanks :D

Hello, I have a Audio10 (haven’t checked wich one yet) in my W202 Mercedes. Are you still converting the radios to Bluetooth? If yes would you ship to Austria?

Very useful. Thank you

Hi was there much of a power upgrade' how did it go ?

Worth mentioning that if you snip the + & - leads together, or manage to otherwise create a short at any point in the procedure, those thin wires go yellow hot in a fraction of a second and will burn you. If the short is sustained, or if you puncture the cell (it's fragile), then you can get a violent jet of flame right in your eyes and plenty of toxic gas. Just saying.

i believe the function for generating the code has to be surjective, because there can be / are far more than 100.000 serial numbers. serial numbers are unique, codes are not. so surjective

u mean the crackle sound comes from the beat is realted to the cracked battery cover or havent i understand this

Thanks for sharing this I appreciate it! Do the steering wheel controls work with the button mod? I wasn’t sure if they would pass through the same places

How long before manufacturers find a way to prevent this. It's basically undoing their planned obsolescence.

Thanks I've had multiple bulbs go bad in a short time frame. Clipping the resister ( if the circuit is similar ) certainly will save me some bucks. Ive always wondered if one can expect any longevity living in a county that has a power grid full surges and brown outs ? Any comments...

Well, I know I sound crazy but working on any CCP device requires gloves. Don't risk getting sick from all those unknown chemicals...

hey . Xiaomi 365 pro (or pro2) battery is 12,8 AH = 3200 mAH x 40 cells ?? Is it right ??

R2 button broke cuz it slipped off my greasy ass hand

Your girlfriend's toothbrush. 😅

I had a broken ribbon cable and had to order a new cable from China. Surprisingly, it was fairly standard size ribbon cable, but I did have to measure the width and the amount of wires in the cable. These seem like a weak spot of the Charge 4. Also, some charge 4s have the front of the grills screwed on and the backs clipped, but others have all 4 parts clipped! They’re made in 4 separate factories, with 2 notable different case and driver designs. If your serial number starts with GT or GG there’s screws holding the front side of the grill. For serial numbers TT and TL, the grill is clipped on both the front and back.

Looks like you put the bass radiator on upside down. Easy fix.

Please don’t break your speaker grills! The charge 3 was made in 2 different factories, and the grills on some of them come off in a completely different way. On some, you need to push the pry tool straight down into the seam, and if you do it right the grill will just slide off, no screws. Don’t try to pry up on the back section like this, because you’ll break the tab that holds the grill on! If your serial number starts with the letters TL, the way that I described is the correct way to disassemble. If your serial number starts with the letters GG, yours is like the one in the video. Don’t ask me how I know!!

Mine doesn’t show Xiao flash when you click select an app

After replacing the display, do I need to do something special? Or I can just go ahead and flash the firmware and it will work?

Hello, I get "flashing failed"

First wow.. that's hard core stealing/repurposing the buttons for bluetooth functionality. I have a question about similar Becker radio that I modified for bluetooth but in the process of taking it apart, I now for some strange reason don't know why the tape door does not close.. I don't quite remember where the plastic protruding piece fits or if anything broke, or if I need to take any particular steps to get it to close again.. I don't believe anything is broken, but would love any suggestion is much appreciated.

Can you do an Ihome ibt78v2

Is't it the write speed?

Listening to this on the same Box with the same Problem is kinda ironic XD

I have a m365. Not pro. Is it ok if i use this custom firmwire? With the 30A setting too?

Is there datasheet for this overvoltage protection chip?

Moin moin, das Radio hat keinen Fader weil es aus einem SLK stammt. Die Radios lassen sich mit der Stardiagnose einstellen, in welchem Modell es verbaut ist, stellt man deins auf Limousine um hast du auch den Fader. Ausserdem hat dein Radio das kleine abnehmbare bedienteil, welches auch nur SLK Radios hatten

Thanks a lot! In my case there were two issues: faulty flowmeter and device in fault mode, so I had to follow the procedure mentioned here (first time by @colinball6785), shorten version also below: "short version fix: switch off machine - fill water up - press 1 cup button and on switch - then press 1 cup and steam button together the machine will continuous pump water out of the espresso - then while pressing these buttons turn steam lever on and off approx every 20 seconds so water comes out of the steam spout - do this process for about 2 liters of water and the machine should work ok". (by @metaseedlabs)

Thank you

Thanks for the video. I have the same one. The problem here is that when I froth the cycle goes for 15 seconds or so and I have to start it again and again. I am not even sure if this is a problem or it was just designed like that. When I switch the lever for frothing all the way it start making loud clicking noise. I am curious if I can set the time for frothing for lits say 30 seconds or so. Does it have this option?

Hi! Got a question, hope you see this. My BE 1150 has several button failures on it, which rwnders the whole radio unusable. Number 1 is shot so I can't even enter the code. Sent it to an electrician who said it's unfixable because he can't safely replace the buttons and I need a new front plate. Is this really the case? Or is it indeed fixable?.. Thanks for the answer in advance!

Do you know the sequence of button pushes that will get you into the service menu? I want to change a regular unmodified radio, including AM, from european station intervals to american. (such as american being 10khz between channels, and european being 9 khz, and whatever is similar for FM intervals?)

прогар знатный!!!!(((

end of the world is good, i live at bt546rt, can get most stuff in the post

What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times. So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip. We have two main problems that I still can't figure out: 1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened) 2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece. Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries

Just helped me ! Thanks 🙌🏽

I have the same problem exactly

Thank you!!!