I treat my primer like regular paint but I don't thin it as much I would

Its a good change to just painting. Looking forward to more but no rush.

Great tutorial!

This is a great exercise, and you do a great job at explaining all your steps.

That fir technique is nuts!

Thank you I've been looking everywhere for this because I can't be asked to get wraithbone for my minis

Dude where are you? I miss your videos

I liked the format. For better or worse though… I have to wonder if it’s a realistic “long term” format. I have to admit that both the writing, performing, and editing took a massive amount of time. Then even longer for all the audio effects. I can’t imagine the juice is worth the squeeze. I had thought about doing something similar…but abandoned the idea because it doesn’t seem likely to pencil out.

This video is very informative and helpful.

Thanks for this great video!

Thank You. I was a little worried bc I painted some small minis with Vallejo grey primer but was worried it wasn't covering correctly and didn't think about air bubbles. I ended up priming with the exact spray can you used bc I had one and it worked great.

I love my chromatic blacks. Burnt umber and payne's grey, weighted one way of the other, make for such lovely shadows. I used the crap out of zinc white for mixing and had no idea about ivory black until just recently. Great vid.

My friend bought this. Was sub par and he reverted to the army painter wett pallet fanatics xl.

I have a test request that you might like. Alcohol Inks. They are crazy cheap on Amazon and probably flow incredibly well through an airbrush. I wonder how well they work on minis

Extremely helpful. Thank you.

I love liquitex its just a great brand the way the paint flows, mix and color vibrancy to me is noticeably better than most and cost wise I think is a winner. A tube of liquitex will go a long way for mini paining. I started simply because that was what I had from a college art class, but it seems youtube would have been a better education for color theory and paint characteristics. It is nice to see someone else who likes them because I was not sure if I was going the right route. I will be experimenting with some of their mediums and other types which also is really nice to know from hard body, to inks are all chemically the same polymers as well as pigments so it makes for a wide variety of options that will all have the same characteristics. I just w they also had some good primers (I have not tried their rattle can stuff) as I use mainly 1/72 historical minis and they can be a tricky thing to get right being a softer plastic. but I think liquitex does make for a good skin once applied.

That point about the satin finish is actually a big one. I really do not like to glaze over matte or ultra matte finishes, these feel to me like they literally drink the water from my brush and take pigments more often than not as corse lumps in unintended spots. I varnish between steps with a cheap satin varnish and I always enjoy painting over that more than over the matte surface

The information on this video is a gift to the planet! I have subscribed to this channel.

Great story and the model looks awesome too!

thanks master i sub thanks thanks and many thanks

I just found this channel when doing research on josanja paints and I can say I can’t wait to get them and that this is my favorite miniature painting channel I have come across

In China, it only costs 6 CAD to buy, and DSPIAE now offers two types of paper to choose from, similar to the third type in the video. I'll give it a try after I receive the goods. I don't think the white palette will be useful, so I'm planning to put brushes there.

This is the foundation of miniature painting right here.

This is cool! Using Gouache seems like a good idea, I might try it. Btw Borderlands is not actually cel-shaded, it's only black-lined. The characters in Zelda (breath of the wild or tears of the kingdom) are cel-shaded, but not black-lined.

Good chance you don't see this but I was looking around for new paints and stumbled on this (Jo Sonja is super available where I am) and have been using them for months now and absolutely love them. Super easy to transfer to dropper bottles as I found that trying to get a good amount of tube was difficult and ended up with more than I needed usually.

Always a fan of Masters painters pal, however, I paint with acrylics on canvas or paper mainly. I didn't have much use for individual paint "pots" so I removed them and store brushes there. I use a small humidifier near my easel while working. This helps too.I always love to see reviews on others favorites. Thanks!

I made holes so both levels get access to humidity (I like keeping my old stuff :-P). I'll spend more when I become better, I'm awful right now lol

As someone who used for a long time brush on primer from AP and Vallejo, I think you just need to be careful. One coat without dilution so the primer doesnt lose its properties, well spread and thin.

Actually, olive green is even simpler, and contraintuitively, is not a mix of blue and yellow; it's a shade of yellow, a mixture of it and black. A good example of this is the zinc chromate green used as a protective coating in US aircraft during WWII - zinc chromate primer was applied as a yellow first coat, and the same primer with lamp black added (making it one of a variety of olive-green shades depending on how much lamp black was added) was applied as a second coat, the color difference telling workers what areas had already received their second coat. Zinc chromate green eventually became the standard interior green for aircraft, and remained so through the war.

just realized i hadnt seen you post in awhile. hope you doing well

Wow thank you I’m new to painting miniatures, my one model is like 6 inches in Length, I am debating if I should paint with brush or spray paint? I do have an airbrush it’s actually my husband’s but I have never used one before and don’t know what to do and rather practice on something I don’t care about first then just prime a model I care about. So the other pieces a brush seems more reasonable and less risk because they are extremely small pieces that like a few brush strokes will cover it. The main thing is the biggest piece, I am really torn on the best way to go about it. I may begin practicing on the airbrush to see if I will do a good enough job just to prime with it, then practice more with on fine details later, cause I need this model done before my daughters bday. Which I have time, if I start now. So let me know on a 6 inch model that doesn’t have really any knooks or crannies other than one small part where there is a gate on a wall where possibly paint could pool using a spray can if I wasn’t careful. A brush could work. Your tip with thinning the primer is genius! Cause on my tiny pieces I just need a slight coat to allow my paint to adhere to.

Great video One note - if you use a rattlecan clear spray - make 100% sure your model is dry - really dry - and it is not humid out when doing so - as it can affect how the clear dries.

What are the different papers you used at 6:20? The paper coming with mine does the same thing as the one in the middle and I find super hard to work with 😢

I tend to use Golden's high flow acrylics for thinning paints with a color when I'm not just letting my wet pallet do it's job, I do have a homemade thinner from Barbatos Rex that works wonders, but sometimes it's a little too much for some paints and it's best for use with the airbrush. I have NEVER had an ink jam an airbrush and I use a budget, $40 airbrush with a very mid-tier compressor. I think you need to play with your PSI and what you're using as thinner in the airbrush or how much you're using of it if you're getting jams frequently. I find that like two drops of thinner then the ink and a nice backwash blending is all you need to make it flow well.

Dang, I just used this for the first time and sadly my thinned paint still dried out quickly on the paper with water still in the palette, same as Redgrass and same as all the other palettes I've tried. Obviously, some kind of me problem. I do love the refill reservoir though, can't believe no other palette has that!

Huh that's so interesting, everyone loves ink whites for aibrush. Surprising to hear that! Interesting.

What medium did you use for the airbrushing before putting in the inks? Why do did you put it, to make it less opaque?

How oftern do you have to replace the wated conductive paper, the one that goes first on the sponge? I see the basic set comes with 3 of those and 10 color mixing papers. I suppose I'd need to get an additional set of the color mixing paper, but do I also need one for water conductive?

Mix your own thinner with flow improver and drying retarder: In one litre or quart of distilled water, mix ~ 7 drops (to taste) each of rinse aid (used with dishwashers) and vegetable glycerin/glycerol (it's used for making soap, on "smoke" machines, and for other uses, you can buy it at any chemist's in litre/quart bottles, or you can get a much smaller bottles).

Thanks for this wonderful video. It´s very relaxing to listen to you.

Thanks, appreciated this.

Great video! I know this is a little random but do you remember where you picked up that metal file from?

I'm more confused now than I was before you basically painted the model then did the dip. Makes no sense to me nothing about this is faster than just painting

Great video, I gotta say though when it comes to professionally produced polystyrene mini's, I am don't prime anymore. Metal and resin though, absolutely.

Cool bid

Thank you for the video. Fun and well-explained.

So I just primed my new CSM army and realized after the fact that there’s some minis that didn’t get coated entirely. I didn’t do a very good job of hitting all the angles from underneath. Since I used army painter Matt black and I’m doing Black Legion can I just hit all the areas I missed with something like citadel Abaddon Black? I’m not concerned with the blacks being a match, only trying to avoid going out to buy another rattle can and have to spray again cause it’s so hard to get the right temp and humidity where I’m at.

How does this not have more views and likes? Excellent vid, and the wet blending technique where you put down medium before the wash is very clever - I will need to try this on some of my genestealer cult hybrids.

I have been looking for pp who are using artist paints for models or mini, ty for your video. Would you recommend heavy or soft for base coat ( not spray), im also using oil for parts.

I use inks and Apple Barrel for white for almost everything.