Hi, thanks for your comment. Try the link below. www.rrd-preparation.com/en/kit-high-75-and-80cc-motorcycle-engine-from-80-to-125cc-2-times/13979-80cc-o495mm-athena-aluminum-kit-for-motorcycle-yamaha-dt-tzr-rd-and-ysr-80cc-lc-liquid-cooling.html.

Hey, thanks for the comment. My wife has her own opinion on that matter though. lmao.

@knockittogether-kit 😏 i bet.

@knockittogether-kit lmao, i bet. 😏

@knockittogether-kit I'm sure she would. 😏

What liquid are you using

Thank you for your comment. I really appreciate the compliment.

Thats really good to hear. Doing it yourself always feels good.

Hi, thanks for your comment. I think so. I noticed it more by light acceleration as it was over fueling.

Thats a cool solution and cheap. Well done my friend...

Hi, thanks for your comment. I cannot 100% guarantee that this would solve the problem. I think I did have the problem when the injectors were malfunctioning.

@@breadboyofficial hi, on my channel I have another video on the vacuum switchs. This sounds more like the variable vane adjuster on the turbo.

Hi, thanks for the question. It depends on the cylinder and if you fit the full exhaust. They say that the standard cylinder works a lot better with the full exhaust. In my case it just sounded better, in fact I will be changing back to an 80 cylinder once I can get my garage cleared as I have moved since making the video. My mate had a standard cylinder with a front to back Gianelli and his back was quick.

Hey, thanks for your comment. I personally do not know how to use a puller. Best I dead is to search you tube for that information. I could imagine that it is attached on to the lower body of the injector.

@knockittogether-kit I managed to pull em just got a stubborn 1 now that won't slide back in haha

@@rlttvjay8331 Good to hear that you managed to get the buggers out. I have done a video on a simple tool I made that I used to clean the injector seats with. Because it is made of Aluminium it is very kind on the cylinder head.

Hi, thank you for your nice comment. Sometimes things are there right in front of us and we do not see them. We all sometimes need a small hint and we find them too. Have a great day.

Hi, thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, I had to go through them one by one. Test drive t and repeat the process. There are kits that measure the returned fuel from the individual injectors. That is also a good sign that the injector is faulty.

@@knockittogether-kit oh my, oh my, I bow my hat.

Hi, thanks for your comment. I am not really sure about the code. I think it is a Volvo code. When the valve is blocked then it seems to cause over pressure in the return fuel pipe which is not good for the engine.

Hi, the non return valve is only for the injector return pipe ? I disconnected the return pipe from injectors and put in a bootle 1.5L and drove the car it made non difference, to bad I thought this was my problem.

Hi, thanks for your comment. I hope it helps you .

Thank you for your nice comment.

Hi asd161, thankyou for the comment. I hope it helped you.

sorry, not sure about the question. I you are talking about the fuel line clips, then none of them are broken.

@@knockittogether-kit it's that clip that you press to remove the fuel line pipe that connects the tank to the fuel filter housing. It's the one on the left side of the fuel filter housing marked with "In". I noticed that yours is green and not white as they come installed. I'm just wondering if you have replaced it before because mine has snapped.

@@mjyumping Nah, I pressed it hatd enough to release it properly.

Hi, thanks for your comment. when do you have the knocking sound? When idling it could be the clutch if you have the car that has the dual mass flywheel. Timing belt would slap or the pulley bearing would rumble when idling. Big end bearings would be a possible clacking noise on acceleration and over or under fueling would be light tinging on acceleration and black smoke in the exhaust pipe.

@@knockittogether-kit ​ i only had noise when in gear and start accelerating ..when the speed increases the noise similar in your video goes off ..no sound when idling ..only when in gear, and you put your foot on the accelerator and then when it speeds up it goes away ,,no black smoke

@@knockittogether-kit 1 more thing ...couple of months ago ...RAC rean an error ..check injection calibraiton head 2 but it never came back and i also get on an off exhaust pressure sensor and check injection system error ..but i put some dpf cleaner and they went off ..one mechanic told me to repalce exhaust pressure sensor pipe and sensor which seems a common problem with renault captur diesel

Americans always sue anything 💀

Thanks for your comment. There will be a follow up video.

Hi John, thanks for your comment. I am glad you noticed the humor. Nice to have you as a viewer.

Hi, Thanks for your comment. To be honest I am not sure about air in the nozzle, but I think most of the debris that needs to be removed is on the surface of the nozzle. It should be better once it has been cleaned.

@@knockittogether-kit Thanks, that confirms my own idea. I leave it for a year or two then.

hi, no if you use the same number, e.g. 5. Most injectors are numbered 5 for these ford models.

I have ford kuga mk1 2.0tdci on injectors shows number 4 i bought injectors 5

@@Bobzymarek ok, then you will need to change them in your system by using Forscan, a free tool for Fords.

@@knockittogether-kitwhat happens if u dont change

@@nolandavidson9190 As far as I know, the engine may run rough, rich or even lean.

Hi, funny one that. Start with the things that will not cost you money, like the throttle body. make sure that it is connected properly and when the engine is warm that the left butterfly flap ( from the front) is open. A flap could be sticking after shut down. When warm, before starting try disconnecting the MAF on the air filter to see if this makes a difference. Also check the Vacuum system for leaks.

@@knockittogether-kit Thanks, I checked the throttle body and it was indeed broken. I fixed it now, but the car behaves the same. However, I noticed that the car always starts when I depress the clutch. I guess it's the starter, but could it be something else?

@@nplayer_1 Hey bud, how old is the starter, and is it turning slowly or making a noise?

@@knockittogether-kit It was indeed the starter. The car now runs perfectly fine and starts every time. Thanks a lot for always replying to my comments so quickly.

@@nplayer_1 Hey my friend, thankyou for commenting and sharing your problems. It does helps others.

Hi, thanks for your comment. The pinging was from the combustion of the diesel. The pinging which sounded a little metallic, may have been caused by over fueling. I hope this helps.

Not a very big tunnel when it is finished. 🤣🤣🤣

Not sure if I would want to. 🤣🤣

🤣🤣

haha, a poo pump.

That was automatic You tube translation.

mmmm more like beh-day

Hey my friend, thanks for the comment. Your english is great, no worries there. I am so happy the video could help you, and it is nice to hear that you got on and fixed the machine yourself. Job done and money saved.

Hi, thanks for your question. I used a small pry bar ( or a big screw driver) and jammed it between the injector and the aluminium head. I then moved it gentle back and forth until the injector was loose enough to pull out. I used my self made cleaning to remove the build up of grime on the seat. I used grease in the pockets of the tool to trap the removed grime, which I then cleaned of the tool before regreasing. I did this a few times. Thanks for your sub.

@@knockittogether-kit Thanks, that's really helpful. I'm assuming I can put grease on a purchased seat cutting tool to collect the removed grime/filings too.

@martinedge2277 Hey, I agree with you 100%, but I expect it is all part of the plan to sell spare parts.

@@knockittogether-kit exactly, they deny there is a problem with these locks, despite the fact your video (and others) highlight the fact. You're lucky if the lock lasts more than 2 years. Doesn't do them any favours in the long run though, just puts people like me off buying their products in future. There are better designs out there for sure. 🙂

Hey, thanks for the comment. I put 9 parts water and 1 part TICKOPUR TR 13. It is a cleaner that cleans off tar and oil residue. Do not use it on Zinc, Tin or other light metals.

If it is only the injector you are changing, then it should bleed itself.

You mean can i change all injectors without bleeding ? or if just one injector ?

@@iferogames8578 Hi, the problem you might have is that if you leave all the injector pipes off, the diesel will most probably drain back into the tank. I done another video that shows the vacuum pump I use to help bleed the system. Another way is to change the injector one by one and run the car 1 minute between changes. This will refill the system and at the same time bleed it.

@@knockittogether-kitthank you so much ❤

Hi, really good video, shows exactly what you need to know. Can I just ask if I tighten the holder bolts too tight and a leak starts to develop… do I just undo them and tight them as per your video ? Or did I create a bigger problem by over tightening them…? My injectors are leaking since I last worked on them about 3 months ago… thanks in advance !

Hi Caspilu, thank you for your kind comment. It is nice to hear that by watching my video you was able to safely repair your appliance. Mission accomplished.

Hi, my car is a 2007 Ford Focus diesel. Apparently Forscan works with the Ford Escape Hybrid, but i do not know which models.

Hi Rik, thanks for your comment. If you have the same engine then it is most probably DW10 PSA engine. On my engine it has two inlets as the turbo is at the back of the engine. I will do a video on that, but at the moment I am working away. I could not see such a sensor under my fuel rail. I will look though. Were they even fitted with such a sensor? I know the engines on the Focus and Mondeo look the same, but I think there were a few differences.

Dude thanks. Sorry I missed your comment. Perhaps we have our eyes wider open than other people.

@@knockittogether-kit Yep your probably right there. Understanding and adaptation through observation seems to be rare. I wish there was a widely recognized test that better reflected a person's "taxable intelligence" as IQ is very overrated! Only a small percentage of people testing above average, have the "COMMON SENSE" needed for, practical application of knowledge! Many people that test under the set average, are exceptionally clever in practice, I wouldn't trust a member of Mensa with much at all! I'm actually qualified to make this statement, as I have a relative with many PhD's and various academic distinctions etc, that is of Mensa level, also an old teacher and mother of an old girlfriend is a Mensa member. (yeah it was weird) Through them and some others recognizing my bizarre skills in generally humble blue collar fields, I was invited to "apply" for Mensa membership. ( sit the test) It was pretty much a given that I would be accepted, hence the invite. There are some very serious potential situations, political in nature mostly that concern me about the concept of Mensa as an institution, but as a society 😕😕😕😕 no way do I like the people or believe they should have any status. (THEY are quite morally disgusting) Sorry for the rant. Back to topic, the abrasive thing you deburred the lid with is called a "you know the one I mean tool" lol. Flap sander or petal drum.(radial configuration) A true drum sander, is a sleeve tube of sandpaper. A true petal sander is like that which is used on an angle-grinder, a flat disc with sandpaper petals overlapping eachother in a circular succession. Also the minimal use of active fluid and suspending the nozzle 👍

Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to test the injector before refitting. I have to hope it was better than before.

@ciutacu Hey, thanks for your comment. I am so happy that this helped you. I too will be driving my Ford till it falls to bits. I will be posting a video soon explaining how I think the throttle body works.

Hey @RichPurc, that is funny. I wonder if it is a bad washer or a laminated washer. I have never had that problem.

Yeah i have had that. The washer didn't have a "quality" feel to it from the start, i think its cheap junk copper! I've had rolled washers too, im guessing theory is to make it spongy?? Sometimes they are aluminum and heat will destroy them! In emergency repair situations ive filled voids in washers with solder! Wont work on anything 250c or hotter but brake, fuel or oil lines, saves the day.