True the scale is centigrade and the unit of measurement is Celsius. Then there is Fahrenheit where the scale is Fahrenheit and the unit is Fahrenheit, English sucks, sadly it is the only one that I kind of speak and write, both poorly. So far in the comments, several people have indicated it last for a fair amount of time, and since this is a hobby not a business, that is fine with me since this mostly will be used for heat shrink and maybe ripping components off of boards. If this was for a business, you would never see the word AliExpress or eBay 😊😊in my mailbags. In my parts database, I actually tag all parts from Digikey and Newark separate colour since the parts have a pedigree. Have a good day

You are not the only one to cringe. Even if I had picked it up properly first try I suspect it was deep fried. If I try it again I will probably use aluminium foil under it and attach a temperature probe to the surface of the plate. Chemistry heating stir plates are not very accurate, especially cheap ones.

Vancouver Island BC Canada. Very wet in the winter. Very very close identification but you were missing one piece of the information. The stump is Spruce so probably Dacrymyces palmatus Orange Jelly vs Tremella mesenterica Witches butter. Could I tell the difference, No. But that is what the wildlife people around here told me (-:

More concerned that the number of view suddenly drop to zero (-:

Good to hear it will last. Probably 99% of my usage is going to be small diameter heat shrink related. For what I paid and the spare parts this option is cheap. I still have my 1500W heat gun for big cables. Saw some desoldering tweezers that look interesting thou. Have a good day

@@retireeelectronics2649 Yup that's mostly all I use it for these days..heat shrink tubing. It's funny to watch all the people who use a Bic Lighter to do the same thing. I got some desoldering tweezers recently too. They work pretty well.

@@retireeelectronics2649 That's pretty much what I use my hot air "***gun***" for as well, heat shrink tubing. I also got some desoldering tweezers recently which work pretty well.

Problem was human and the mercury? switch in the handle. Once the switch was glued back in place it operates perfectly and will put out maximum heat at full airflow. Previously the switch was off by about 15 degrees. Probably the glue holding the sensor broke during shipping.

Thanks, it is great exercise to keep the mind active. Got to have a hobby when retired

Thanks, and have a Merry Christmas on the other side of the planet with your family

Oh come on I need my exercise 🤣🤣whole week was like that. Good to hear how long it can last. Have a good day

Ouch that was quick. Thing I found with electronics is if it doesn't fail within a week or two, it probably will last a long time, hence buying extended warranties is a waste of money. Also we are a throw away society and getting replacement parts now is a pain, hence why I bought the one with spare heating element. Have a good day

@@retireeelectronics2649 The heat gun is a generic part and is usually available on amazon separately.

Good to know, hopefully it will last.

It appears there are multiple meanings of fluff and the British meaning (failed, screwed up, etc) is completely different from the Canadian meaning (trivial) 😂😂🤣🤣 Please make your own decision 😁😁which should apply

I will try fixing it first, since another comment had where the problem could be located. Have a good day

@retireeelectronics2649 I understand but is not a good reflow station. For reflowing smd u need at list one station that can reach 480°C

@SymbolTech21 This will be mostly for heat shrink since currently I use my soldering iron to heat the heat shrink. It was a quick fix, the hot glue securing the relay detached

@retireeelectronics2649 if you need to buy a reflowing station just for heatshrink is better to buy one that will be able to reflow also smd. You are doing anyway electronics projects so will be handy

@@retireeelectronics2649 I have a Katsu 2 in 1 have also soldering iron and also air gun is a decent one and cost only 60 British pound and reach to 480°C and I can do also smd with is quite nice on a budget

That will give me a starting point to get it working properly. Thanks, have a good day

Bang on. The hot glue they secured the relay didn't hold and the relay was moving around. That was way to fast of a fix. Thanks, have a good day

Sadly was such a quick fit I can't even make a video for it. The reed or mercury switch in the handle was detached from the hot glue holding it to the side. Angle was off by about 15 degrees and slightly sideways. So when holding it at an angle that would be normal for me to do heat shrink it would turn on and off. I didn't catch that - - - was the symbol for rest state, manual is not ideal. And yes when working on anything disconnect the power first and if power is needed, be very careful, any part could be at mains. Have a good day

Well, of course. It would be a big problem if that didn't happen 🙄

I did a poor job of showing it all and I didn't get that - - - meant sleep mode. It would also turn off when I was pointing it downward slightly which is how I would do heat shrink. The reed or mercury switch was loose in the handle so the switch was off by about 15 degrees. Have a good day.

I picked up some MG Chemicals 422C Silicone Conformal coating a while ago "Mailbag 7 ish". Gives a good coating. It will take a while to clear the postal backlog but eventually everything will arrive. Have a good day.

Yeah, i used a similar circuit as part of a sequencer for an analog synth

My other two projects failed miserably, Theremin and Inductive coupled Abacus so I did a simple project to raise my spirits (-: Have a good day

Not a bad idea, random or chaos is always gooda. Have a good day

😂

Yes, I have just started testing some power banks to figure out which are questionable. Very easy to use. Have a good day

Thanks, just wish I had not dropped the first try. Have a good day

I found it makes no difference since the LED shines through your finger to the receiver on the other side. It is definitely a bit more ergonomic if put on the other way. I did it that way since it was easier to record. Amazing technology. Have a good day

It will be interesting to hear the quality of it.

That was the second take. I forgot to mention it in the first take and it was super loud (-:

DigiKey and Newark ICs come in Antistatic bags, but rarely AliExpress stuff. Have a good day

That will be interesting to see how the HT8970 stack up to the PT2399. Combining it with the 555 could make some very unique sounds. Have a good day

You must of seen that Japanese video on tsunami life raft bubbles that can be stored on roofs. My house is high enough to survive melting of 1 polar cap = I get water frontage 👍👍2 polar caps and I need to get a house boat. I like your idea of stuffing the airbags in unused parts of the fridge. It would actually save energy by restricting airflow out every time the door is opened. Nice concept.

I bought it for hobby use. My plan eventually is to compare a LED bulb say 100W (equivalent) then modify it to 50W (equivalent) or whatever through changing the resistor in the circuit and comparing the actual current draw of both against the LUX change. It would be interesting to see the relationship, is it linear or quasi linear with just an offset due to overhead heat of the circuit. So would two modified bulbs that would probably last for a lot longer due to almost no heat degradation than the original bulb produce the same light plus some extra heat. I don't view the extra heat as a loss since I live in Canada and about 3/4 of the year is heating days so if it is inside it is just heating the house. Currently most LED bulbs are designed to fail due to overheating. Got to get back to this project.

@retireeelectronics2649 - from my experience as an LED lamp designer, and full lab testing and certification... The light output is (technically) directly linear with current. That applies almost perfectly with PWM (averaged) compared to continuous current. However the output is definitely reduced with increased LED die temperature, but that's impossible to accurately measured in the home lab (nor really in any testing lab) so they will deal with temp rise in a different way, which is what the specs are based on. To explain that, get yourself a datasheet for any reputable chip - lets say a 2835 SMD package. In there will be a diagram to define a Tc (temp contact) point for thermocouple position. The datasheet specs will state something like (e.g. for a 2835) "32 Lumens at 60mA with Tc at 50°C" etc, and there will be a chart that shows the % output change vs temp and often there will also be a summary chart with output vs current at a certain Tc. From those specs you will get a good understanding of how temp and current are related, but you must keep in mind that different LED brands, package sizes and Binnings will have completely different characteristics. For example, we found that we increased overall efficacy from 110 lm/W to over 125 lm/W by using 50% more LEDs and driving them at 2/3 the current (each), and we were under-driving heavily (<50% of rating). The decreased individual die temp gave us most of the efficacy gain, despite the total wattage being the same. LED Binning makes a massive difference too. We found standard BIN might be 120 lm/W (inside the fixture) but we could get 160 lm/W or more with a more expensive BIN from the same manufacturer. The better chips cost more, so there is no perfect solution... everything needs to be built (down) to meet a pricing point. We ended up running 2 product lines, one with 160 x midrange chips for 130 lm/W (in fixture, incl driver losses) and a pricier line with 120 x expensive chips giving 160 lm/W. If cost was no object then even higher efficacy was possible. Note that the chips sold at wholesale and retail level are almost certainly low Bins for colour and/or efficacy. Manufactures like ourselves buying millions of chips got the first choice of the top Binnings from the production runs. 😉

Sure saves money and keeps stuff out of the landfill. Have a good day

That would be an excellent use.

Video was way to long without a bit of fast forwarding. Not sure which is better, chop parts out or fast forwarding.

@@retireeelectronics2649 I choose fast forwarding... but without the sound. Or at least without the voice.

Luckily I have lots of old ICs but someday I will have to look at the microcontrollers, just not in a hurry to do it (-: Have a good day

What I needed was to not drop a board that looked very nice. Those ceramic tweezers are real nice, probably will pick up another, once our Postal strike ends. Shipping right now is very expensive.

That is how I did one of these over a year ago, wanted to try something different. I agree without a stencil, it was probably slower then just one at a time. Have a good day

Have you seen my Halloween videos😁 Have a good day

Might try the toaster oven next. The stir plate isn't perfectly level. Have a good day

It was looking so promising until the drop, but practice and more practice is the way to do it. Have a good day

Vancouver Island Canada, hence west coast of British Columbia. Last year was very bad for breathing, great for colourful sunsets. This year the wind was kind to us and kept it at a light but noticeable haze. Most of the smoke we get is usually from Washington State or home grown in British Columbia.

Sure saves money, Have a good day

I am going to have to figure out if this works on resistance to air flow or simply time on. Maybe add a charcoal filter between the main filter and the inside. Have a good day

Might need to pick some up in the future to try these out.

Had to look up what that is, and not a good idea for me. But I did recently think of using small diameter steel balls in combination with strong magnets and making a Abacus. Have a good day

The lack of fuse is poor but at the same time it is meant as a cheap meter and does work. The transistor tester part is a bit loose. It is amazing how few components are on the board. Will have to take a look at the XL4015, I try to use these type modules at 30 to 50% of what they are rated at. Cool electronics lasts longer. Have a good day

Yes, these strings are sturdy

It is fun

These are B pots so yes linear vs A type which are audio/log taper. I will add more info to the description of the video. In the product descriptions they do state linear and B type then add every word they can. Have a good day

Not really for balance control u most to have a linear pot. For ton controls as base, treble or mid linear pot as well for volume pot a logarithmic pot.

@@SymbolTech21, but for what reason is a linear pot described as an 'audio' pot, and not just a generic linear pot?

Sadly English is my only language, and I am not good at it.