The last part of this video at 3:17 i show an image produced with a six inch maksutov telescope all the details are there, now with a more powerfull telescope that blueish spot on that image will become bigger,,.. a 16 inch dobson telescope would be pretty nice and they are affordable! So the answer was yes.

@@astrovegaI’ll have to give it a shot with my 12inch dob. Maybe I’ll see it.

​@@Cosmo12a You know that you are not going to see a clear detailed view of it as the Nasa images taken from satellites orbiting around the moon couple thousands of kilometers high from the moon features as like the apollo missions too,,, but the fact that you can spot it from your telescope and see a blurred little spot to me is amazing. And of course with the least of turbulence in the atmosphere is best. Give me feedback of what you see if you see it, this was one of the main goals of this video, to be able to locate it and challenge the viewer.

@@astrovega Oh, I know I’m not going to be able to see like the NASA images or anything. I really like a challenge and this seems like a good one.

After observing and shooting the total solar eclipse I'm looking for a way to shoot the chromosphere. It's beautiful! But the narrow-band images are not even close to what I've seen during the eclipse :(

Hi, in a nutshell, you put un webcam in your telescope and take high speed video recording as fast as you can, the more frame per second the better. Then, if you are lucky, you will get 1 sharp picture from time to time. Thats why the technique is called "lucky imaging". Then you take only your sharp frame and stack it with a software so the noise is lower and the signal is upper. The more clear frame you have, the more signal you have. Then you take that stacked frame and work it in photoshop like in this video .

Hey thanks!

Il faudra vous exercer à mettre en place un appareil photo et un télescope dans la noiçeur en 2 minutes top chrono pour la prochaine apparition. L'astronomie amateur est tout indiqué pour vous pratiquer .

i believe that's a composite image with separate exposures for earthshine (moon features visible there), i can't imagine if it's even plausible to get a video with all those combined exposures (and if so, how much processing that would require...)

It is a composition of different exposure time. The problem with the digital camera is it can't render in 1 shot the whole dynamic range of what the human eye can see. This image is a composition of 17 different exposure time ranging from 1/4000 of second to 2. Earthshine is the 2 seconds one, but as you can imagine, with a 2 seconds exposure all the corona is burned white...

I dont see that model in the compatible model

They still looked at it.

Tout à fait!

Thank you very much!

Thanks!

Merci beaucoup vraiment! j'ai fais mon possible, à aussi m'occuper de la photographie et tout le reste, et mon seul regret c'est de ne pas avoir regarder la totalité avec mes jumelles, moi que je suis plus visuel, mais on peut pas tous les avoir à notre première expérience de l'éclipse totale. Merci encore, bon ciel!

@@astrovega Bon ciel à vous aussi!

Merci!

I don't know is someone own it or publish it as anyone can take a skychart and overlay rings over it, but the document you can download from this site:www.custerobservatory.org/docs/ messier 1 and messier 2. Maybe a member of this observatory can answer you better than me.

Oui!

Thank you!

Thanks Danielle!

Bonjour, les 2 sont des celestron C11, sauf qu'un est normal et l'autre est HD. Dans les 2 cas ce sont un diamètre de 279mm ( 11 pouces) et une focal de 2800mm, le tout pour un ratio F10. Le c11 XLT ( celui dit ''normal'') est monté sur une monture celestron CGEM, et le c11 HD est monté sur une EQ8. Dans la vidéo, le c11 HD est utilisé avec un hyperstar. C'est à dire que le mirroir secondaire a été remplacé par une lentille et une caméra. Dans cette configuration, le c11 est rendu a un focal ratio de f2, ce qui lui donne une focal de 560mm. Le c11 XLT est parfait pour le planétaire, même s'il n'est pas HD, seul le centre du champ est réèllement utile, tandisque que le c11 HD utilsé avec le hyperstar excel dans le ciel profond.

Merci pour votre commentaire et vos questions pertinentes! Effectivement, pour clarifier, l'équipement d'astronomie amateur laissé à l'extérieur est généralement conçu pour résister aux conditions de froid et d'humidité à un certain degré. Ce sont des facteurs moins critiques pour l'ensemble de l'équipement, car beaucoup d'entre eux sont fabriqués avec des matériaux et des conceptions qui supportent ces conditions extérieures. Cependant, l'aspect spécifique qui nécessite une attention particulière est l'oxydation de l'aluminure des miroirs. Avec le temps, même si l'équipement est globalement résistant, la fine couche d'aluminium appliquée sur les miroirs pour en améliorer la réflectivité peut effectivement s'oxyder. Cette oxydation est principalement due à l'exposition à l'air et à l'humidité, entraînant une dégradation de la performance optique du miroir. Pour remédier à cette situation, il est nécessaire de procéder à une réaluminure des miroirs après un certain temps.

The link is now below direct downlaod.

@@astrovega thank you so much for the video and resources!

Thank you!

This is true for mid to far-infrared wavelengths, which are typically used in thermal imaging to detect heat signatures. However, the ZWO camera, like many astronomical cameras, is sensitive to near-infrared (NIR) light, which behaves differently than the longer wavelengths used for thermal imaging. Near-infrared light, in the range of about 700nm to 2500nm, can pass through certain types of glass and other materials more effectively than the mid or far-infrared wavelengths. Telescope optics are designed with materials that allow for the transmission of these shorter infrared wavelengths, enabling these cameras to capture images using NIR light.

@@astrovega Wow this is insight that I didn't know until NOW! Thanks! I used to think these infra cameras were not really compatible with telescopes, but now that you patched up the holes in my physics knowledge, I'm less skeptical :)

Thank you for your kind words and your intriguing question! If you're looking to find detailed information on galaxies, including their magnitude, designation, classification, as well as their Right Ascension (RA) and Declination (DEC) based on specific criteria like brightness and location within a certain constellation or near a specific set of coordinates, the Strasbourg astronomical Data Center (CDS) provides a powerful tool called SIMBAD and another resource, VizieR, which could be immensely helpful for your research. Here's the link: cds.unistra.fr/

Yes it is amazing looking through the h alpha filter for observing the sun. Dont combine another solar filter but you can certainly combine an IR cut filter.

Great news thanks!

Good idea! let me know.

I have been away from my channel for a while due to challenges in my life, although I will come back and continue to pursue this passion, I appreciate the encouragement, thank you!

Si tu met une roue à filtre il faudra soustraire la longueur ajouté par elle. Donc ton T-ring adaptateur est trop long avec la roue à filtre. Par contre j'encourage pas d'utiliser une roue à filtre et simplement un filtre à la fois à moins que nous fessons du monochrome.

@@astrovega Merci beaucoup !!!!

Merci!

Nothing beats a USB 3.0 webcam plugged into a laptop for squeezing more FPS out of video recording when doing lucky imaging. I still love my ASI Air when I do my deep sky imaging the traditional way.

Thanks 👍

I think having both scope finder and telrad is the way to go

Meteorites land everywhere on earth, there are hundreds that are classified and used for research in the scientific community, since hundreds of years all around the globe. The reason why you would go and search for them in the desert lands is that they are easier to spot and find. It's very hard and challenging to find them in dense forest like up north and it's actually more dangerous with bears then snakes and scorpions.