Thank you very much. That is exactly what I was looking for. Grate explanation.

Love the music blokes. Subbed.

The magnet thing would be good for a situation where you have to pldrive in a nail in a hard to reach place _ up.high or way off to the side _ where it might be dangerous to climb up another step on the ladder _ or saving time not having to climb down a ladder to move it over climb up again then drive-the nail in

Great explanation! Got my new saw and the riving knife is too far to the left. Going to use this video to adjust. Thanks!

I use for framing and driving huge nails in a 23oz Voughan California Framer with the hatchethandle 18" handle great hammer costs me around 60€ on Amazon and that's a amazing hammer ! I allso got a 20oz straight claw estwing and I like it very much

Caught that "Im gonna rub the glue under the workbench" move!! You were the kid hiding gum & boogers under your school desk, werent ya?! hahaha Just kidding, cool video.

I just did this, and it's nightmarish. Your video was helpful to a degree, especially in that it's counterintuitive screwing the small screws "in" actually pushes the knife out. Manual says loosen the larger screws "if necessary" ??? They don't explain what necessitates it. And they don't explain which direction to turn it for the desired direction of movement. I was trying to adjust with your method, and it wasn't moving at all when I turned the top screws. Then I realized the whole knife was loose as can be, and wobbling with a ton of slop. After playing with it for a while, I realized that the big screws and small screws work against each other. In other words, the more I turned the adjusting screws, the looser the blade got- then I had to compensate by using the big screws to firm it up again. And there's really NO room to work, or see how to insert the allen wrenches...you have to do it by feel- get a half turn, remove it and fumble to reinsert. I took the blade off to have more room, then played with all the screws to see how it was moving. Then reinstalled the blade and did the final adjustments. Thanks for the video- there were only 2 about this on this model, and yours described it best.

I think your description might be incorrect. Isn't it a DJV180Z?

That slow mo was good. Talk about jesus more

Nice one

Could this be attached to a hoover?

Thanks, buddy. I just thought my knife was bent. Lol

The Fiskars 20oz is my favourite,, it is actually proven to reduce pain and swelling in prolonged use, so that's good enough for me,, mine will last for the rest of my life without a shadow of a doubt..

I have this sander as well, and just finished my first project over Christmas, sanding back a stool which had been left outside for a few years, untreated, so that I could oil it and keep the brown colour alive. I am very happy with it.

Nice review. Would be interested to know more about the dust bag too.

Torque is grunt not speed. An impact wrench unlike a driver is not geared for speed. It’s not the power that you like in the Milwaukee but the speed. They aren’t the same thing.

Great content my friend

Does the Milwaukee having a 5.0 amp battery and the makita having a 4.0 amp have an impact on speed?

Why comparing those? Makita DTD155 is in different price category, why not compare it with DTD172? Also what's the point of comparing power with compact driver? Who would buy M12 for such a job? People buy it for precision and expect it to not over screw.

The smaller hex key is 2.5 mm as others have noted. And the bottom 2.5 mm (not top as in the manual) is indeed the tilt adjustment. This is a really difficult adjustment to make. I recommend turning only one of the three adjustment screws at a time so you can see its effect and make other adjustments incrementally. The upper two adjustment screws should be adjusted one at a time until they align the riving knife with the saw blade horizontally. Then the lower adjustment should be made to align the knife and blade vertically. Each time you make an adjustment, you need to loosen and then tighten the two lower 4 mm set screws. And they need to be made fully tight each time you check the alignment because the alighment changes as you tighten the set screws. It took me a lot of trial and error on my adjustments and I had to go back and redo a lot, and each time I had to loosen and tighten the set screws. That's why I suggest small adjustments first, and only one at a time, so you can perfect the technique and make the mutiple adjustments as few as possible. The hex screw heads are impossible to see behind the plate they're recessed into. Getting a hex key inside the hex heads (particularly with the 2.5 mm screws) is pretty tricky, and your working space is very cramped. But it's all doable. It just takes time and patience. Maybe a beer if you're saving your woodcutting for later.

You can't really compare a impact driver to an impact wrench. Well I guess you can but it wouldn't make sense😂

Why not compare the impact drivers to each other instead of an impact wrench?

Your comparing an impact driver (Milwaukee) to an impact wrench (makita) which you know cuz you said it but unless its a really large lag, an impact driver is typically always going to win. Higher rpms and higher imps but the impact driver is going to heat up a lot quicker if your doing a lot. That makita will break big bolts free way better then that Milwaukee cuz that is what it is designed for. More torque. Yes Milwaukee is 1 of the strongest impact drivers out there but this is an apples to oranges comparison

I finished building my house with the 20 oz DeWalt, perfect hammer

Also the milwaukee gen 4 impact driver with one key version has 4 modes plus self tapping mode and u can customize modes for real delicate work or high demand. U can also adjust light setting to low to bright light and the amount of time u want it on or shut it off completely. So u get the tool nerd techy part u desire and the power. Win win. The hammerd drill one key 2906 has 3 modes .

do you ship to ireland?

Really appreciated that you touched on all the main benefits and drawbacks in just 5 mins. Clear consise info from someone that's used it for a year means i was able to get exactly what I needed from a person qualified and experienced enough with the product to give their opinion. Keep up the great work!

The best one ive ever used in my close to 50 years of building is the stilleto titanium hammer, its an expensive but well worth the money has been thru the ringer and you can’t break it

You forgot the lower 2.5 mm adj. screw and check its squareness with table top (to match blade). * Note: instruction manual (mine anyways) shows that 3rd 2.5 mm screw on top, where it should be shown at the bottom. The top is a spring pin - not an adj. screw.

i think it is a 2.5 not a 2.0 on the small one

I just do stuff around the house as it comes up, and just recently bought the 12oz DeWalt for my toolbox-glad to see it will be plenty good

thanks for this, i got the dtd155 and for job site is pretty useful i mostly got it because of its size and dont really use it for hard working but rather small things

hey! i was looking around on reddit and saw that you should align your riving knife to the fence side of the kerf. any reason why you did this differently? also saw that you should align based on the teeth of the saw. i’m new to all this so just trying to find the best info. thanks for the video!

Thanks Issac. Informative, especially how it switches over to neutral when lifted. Much appreciated

Thanks for the info. I was looking for more that I can't find on the website description, like whether the battery life claim holds up, or how long it takes you to charge them realistically, or maybe how serviceable it is if I have to replace the battery sometime in the future. Does their "aware" tech have actual stereo passthrough, like a pair of Howard Leights, or is it just mono sound coming out? Again, thanks for what you do.

Refreshing video, thanks for the comparison and stating your favorite. Did you ever get the Stilletto? Some say they prefer the 12 oz DeWalt over it. Would trust your opinion more though. <subscribed >

great job. i think you could forgo the brads on the side though, it would leave a cleaner look

Thanks for taking the time to do up this review- was on the fence about corded vs. battery and you sold me on the battery. Big fan of Makita.

Thx m8

Nice ❤

What did you use to finish the board? Black spray paint, or something else?

Lost track of my Estwing 28 oz. For 20 years after we got a Bostich N80C. Who needs a huge framing hammer when we have pneumatic tools? I notice the fastest hammer was the lightest. My everyday hammer is a 13 oz. Curved claw Plumb. Long swing gives large momentum. I have Granfors pry bars for deconstruction

Great stuff Isaac, we should catch up sometime! Hope you're doing well. Bless ya

Really nice desk man. What is the length and width of the top of the desk? if you dont mind me asking.

Love it!!

That is brilliant!!

tbh ive only used the cheap HF random orbit and my makita cordless. i absolutely love rhe cordless model and the weight/lack of power is kinda of a benefit. i dont want to be sanding through in between finish layers and i kinda just dont push down at all and its been great!

Im happy to share that I already bought my hammer last year.december. the estwing 16oz rip claw with lovely blue handle.American made from American steel👍

HM ?

Looks sick! Well done