The hardest part in making these is re-setting the neck at the correct angle. It is epoxied on, so you have to get under the heel and FB with a thin saw and slice away. Also, they have a solid steel reinforcing (truss) rod at the heel that extends under the FB on top of the body. You have to work it free once you make the cuts. I didn't see any emails come through.

@@piekielrl my email probably was diverted to your spam folder. Thank you for the information. What has to be done to change from the biscuit style cone and bridge to the spider? I wish I was more familiar with resonator guitar construction. I know my old Dobro has a parallelogram sound well under the cone

@@banjosforbreakfast6086 You have to route out a larger hole in the top to make the large parts fit. I did this carefully so the wood sound well fit tightly. Also, the back is rounded (not flat) so you have to carefully shorten and "fit" the sound well to the back. Once you have it pressed in and glued, just lay on the spider and cone, and bolt down the cover plate. I recommend getting a cover plate with a removable palm rest, as that way you can unscrew it and adjust the bridge, or take the strings off without having to remove the whole cover each time.

@@piekielrl some time back I ran across a source for pre-war style soundwells for resonator guitars. I can't seem to find them again. Right now my best idea is to find an inexpensive Recording King Maxwell resonator guitar, which is built with parallelogram soundwells, to use for donor parts. Thank you for the information.

OK, I put another one up just for you!!!!!!

that would be John Hartford