How did this come out

ATT 1968-1970, Model Power 1971-2014, Lionel 2014-Present.(Model Power bought out by Lionel in 2014)

Brian, do you have any kind of ventilation set up for the printer? Resin fume exposure is the main thing keeping me from getting a resin printer myself, and I haven't seen a real safe way to deal with that without putting the printer in a garage or something.

@Brian Banna with shapeways going belly up are we still able to purchase your parts? Those esu board holders for Kato units are awesome

So, what happened with this build? I'm not seeing any more videos on your channel.

Who does your custom walkway tread? I need some decent GP7/9 Highnose and GP7/18 low-nose treadplates for Proto 2000 models

WTF? Where was the model??

Hi Brian, very informative as always. Thanks for sharing. Who do you use for photoetched parts and do you have to supply the artwork? Thanks again. Bill

Hi Brian, regarding the plow, if you like, I can adjust the file for plows blade depth to make the "V" or wedge shape of the blade a bit more narrow to allow for the coupler trip pin. Let me know.🙂

I just found you on line with your modeling time. I usually watch something on my iPad while I have lunch. Lunch got a little long today as I watched three episodes. You helped me with photos of of RS3 details a few years ago. Life got in the way and I have not finished yet. I am sort of doing a production line as I wound up trying to 8 RS3 at the same time. I am 86 so I don’t work all that fast any more and I am also my wife’s care giver. Any way I will following along with your RS11 project. I am also trying to learn 3D printing. Finding a lot of what you are doing very interesting. Thank you for taking the time to do the shows.

4:44: The glad hand on coupler is a universal problem for many locos. Not only will the glad hand rub on pilots/plows, but glad hands on adjoining cars will hit the pilot/plow so they won't couple or will inadvertently uncoupler during slack action. So if you use magnetic uncoupling and need the glad hand, just use the longer shank Kadee coupler. It'll look a little odd for ten minutes, but after that you won't notice, and your trains will run very nicely.

Excellent information Brian. I wondered if you just considered doing the pilots as 3D prints too. It seems to me that might be a good option especially if you are planning to do a number of units. I’m considering that path for some B&LE SDs as they had an additional step versus the typical EMD locomotive of the era. Also the upper corners of the pilots were cut out as the footboards were removed and the coupler lift bars were modified to enable using them from the steps.

Thank you for sharing. This was a good one. I'm now learning how to use Alibre. Thanks again. Drawing some shells in N scale.

Glad you’re back Brian. Why don’t you cut the glad hand off the coupler?

Hey Brian. I just got Alibre drawing program. Thanks for mentioning it. I bought it. Very easy to use. Love that it stays with your computer. Thanks again. Not to draw something to print. LOL

5:05 Nice work! Instead of throwing away those pieces that don't fit, maybe you could use them as a junk load for a gondola or flat car.

Thanks for sharing, Brian. Love watching your Videos. Someday I may do videos of detailing my N scale. Keep up the great work.

hey brian, i enjoy watching your stuff, am in awe of your modelling abilities, but remember, if it's not fun, what is it. and as one professor taught us, Keep It Simple Stupid. i enjoy your videos, keep up the good work. john

Hi Brian, Thank you so much for taking the time to talk about how you evolved your design of the air tanks. I really appreciated the techniques you covered in how you developed the tank ends and the internal supports. I really like that idea of creating tools to help clean up your end pieces so they fit flawlessly. I've been a fan of your work and again thank you for sharing your knowledge and techniques. Please keep posting your videos! Hector

Hi Brian, the recreation of finer grilles using 3D printing is promising! I found this out when designing and printing out the replacement dynamic brake hatch for my Athearn BB GP9. The side intake grilles and exhaust fan grille on the 48" cap top rendered beautifully, better than anything I've seen that was produced by injection molding. Anyhow, nice work! Keep it up! You are inspiring and motivating me to forge ahead in my own efforts!

I'm looking forward to the finished ALCo RS11. The radiator fan and hold down bolts look fantastic. The etched metal and resin trucks is an interesting idea. Thanks for sharing.

My fingers are crossed. Trying to convert to n scale. Boy oh boy. LOL I learning to use Alibre. Are you using the Hobby Version? The $199 one time cost?

I am really curious to see how you were able to hold the sill in the mill.

I'm surprised you didn't do photo-etched steps.

Your locomotive will look great weathered. Doesn’t have to be over the top but just showing some years of good use in the field. Your weathering is the absolute best! 😎

Thank you for sharing. You are getting beautiful detail in your parts. What draw program are you using again?

I get your reticence about weathering 🤔🫤 but if I may say your past weathering projects on your locomotives are the best I have ever seen by far - they are on another level of perfection sir 🙏🏻🫣

Great job as usual, can I ask where you get your photo etch work done? Thanks Ed

Thanks for sharing. I'm learning a lot. and getting lots of good idea. I just have to convert it all to N scale. LOL

Brian, will you be using any brass etchings? KV models has a lot of good ones for the RS series and the RS 11. Cheers Rob

Hi Brian, what drawing program do you use?

I made it this far Brian! 😉 Absolutely great work and am learning some things as we go along. I do have a question, I am looking for rear loco number boards for my old blue box GP38 wrecked loco load I am doing. So far haven’t had any luck looking online but maybe I have missed something somewhere. If I can make my own what material would you suggest? Thank you!

Your fuel tank looks correct and close to scale like the Proto RS11s kato made the fuel tanks so fat

Loving it Brian! I do have a question, what glue did you use to glue the 3D printed box to the plastic frame? CA(super glue)? I assume CA works best for gluing two 3D printed pieces together? I have a loco project I am working on and want to do it right the first time. 😉 Thanks!

It is a great morning to wake up to a Modeling Time video! Looking forward to this project. Thanks for posting Brian.

I don't know what kind of plastic Atlas uses for their truck frames, but it is very hard............I did an RS-1 for my work train.......I removed the cast on brake cylinders and replaced them with Detail Associates parts.

Can't beat a Kato motor, I just have to figure out how to convert 9 blue box Proto GP30's to use the Kato motors.

Hi Brian, any chance you might show us some of the steps you went about in designing your air tanks in CAD for your RS11 project? Thanks, Hector!

Great video. Is the wheel mask something you made, or can they be purchased from somewhere?

Have you ever had a Atlas/Kato C425 is producing a buzzing sound around curves? I just got one, I've taken it apart, cleaned and oiled it, and it still has the same buzzing sound coming from the wheel area i think..

I just found your channel. You do excellent work.

Are you going to finish the caboose or is that swept aside since it’s HO?

Would love to see you use the resistance soldering repairs.

Thanks for sharing. Did you tact the triangles with AC?

Brian, I like the idea of the shorter segments.

Congratulations on the printer acquisition! I’m enjoying the O scale project so far and look forward to seeing the coming steps!

Looks good. Your eyes are going to thank you too!

Why not do both Brian? - You can "fine scale" model and build a nice little Proto 48 (Shelf) Layout, with one short line (siding) spur, with weathered ties and scale rail @ 10' by 16" inches for running and displaying your finescale models. Imagine your beautiful sounding Geep crawling through the frog and points while shoving in a squealing Boxcar to a small two car industry with a .5 percent grade. 😁

I am glad that you went to O-Scale because you are so indepth with your details that you were probably getting very frustrating. In reference to the 3-D printer, by the time you read this you’ll probably have all lot of experience already with your machine. It is quite liberating knowing that you have total control over what you design and print. I can I am so glad they are going to O-Scale.

Wow I thought I was good for rebuilding a E&C shops ho woodchip car from the 90's. Do you have any experience with working with a airslide Hopper? Tangent or Walthers? With Walthers a little more work o well love rebuilding an customizeing I model Seaboard System in ho