Good idea. Thanks for sharing that.

If you are resting the replacement joist on a header or wall on each end then screws (like I used) would be fine. If you are doing a true 'sistering' of joists together and the new joist is NOT resting on solid surfaces at each end that is a totally different repair and, in my opinion, would be better done with bolts. Hope that makes sense.

@@johnbange6338 Well, that’s a first! Never been told that. LOL

@@anomamos9095 I appreciate the comment. A couple of things to note. First, the lift was only 3/4” and the arc you referenced is virtually none. If the vertical lift was more a lot I could have used my bottle jack. As to the rolling threat, I had leveled the wood supports to straight up and down so that wasn’t a threat of happening. In my estimation, because of those factors I don’t think it was a dangerous way to jack up the joist. However, if those factors were different I would agree a bottle jack would be better.

@@RighttothePointDIY The comment was meant for others as you had already successfully used it. But you're lucky Murphy wasn't looking.

@ Thanks for the comment.

Thank you very much for the kind words. I have not had a single problem with the repair in the three years since I did it. It’s holding great. Best of luck to you as you do your own repair.

@@RichardCooper-bd9qo Understood. However, the screws are not holding any sheer weight. The purpose of the screws is just to hold the new joist in place against the old joist. The weight is being carried by the joist itself.

@@angelf9800 i’m certainly no expert in floor leveling, but I would believe that two jacks would be better. However, if you only have one, you can probably make it work.

@@kia3d Thanks man! That means a lot

@@kebam48 I’m really glad it helped. Good luck with your repairs.

@@hankhe3841 Thanks ! It was a lot of work but paid off.

@@jordangram Thanks!!

@@StormyITO understood. However, the screws are not taking any sheer weight. They are simply holding the joist to the broken one. All the weight coming from the floor above is being carried by the new joist itself. Because of that the screws are more than adequate.

LOL. I’m 6’1” so it works. I can imagine being 6’6” would be a challenge!

@@besmey No. I cut the vent in so I can access it

@@epitomeoflondon Glad it helped

@@goldwingconepatterns2565 Glad the video was helpful. No I didn’t use a thread locking application. It’s been a year and they have not loosened up at all.

@@ScreenmobileofStCharles awesome! I know it sure makes a difference for me. Glad the video helped.

@@ThomasMoore.1 Thanks my friend.

@@fa20wrxchannel I’ve seen those comments as well and I’m not sure what to tell them. It worked for my car.

That is tougher. You will probably need to jack up the floor on the joists on either side of that one, take out that old joist and then put the new one in. A lot more work but doable.

@@notewriter910 You are most welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.

@@RighttothePointDIY - I had read somewhere that using both offset shims and the thinner shims stacked together was not recommended. I didn’t see an issue considering the mounting bolts seemed long enough to go through both shim sets completely and hold the handlebars securely. Let me know your thoughts there also or if you’ve experienced any issues with them loosening up. I have short arms and would like the additional length back and up towards me as well. “Thanks again.” 😉

@@notewriter910 I have not had any issues with them loosening up. I had to take the handle bars off for a repair on my steering shaft and they were all still very tight. That was about 8 months after installation.

@@RighttothePointDIY - Sounds great. Thanks again for your thoughts and encouragement. Be safe out there. 😉

Thanks for the comment. I’m not sure it would be advisable to put the cover back on because one of the things that happened when I put my risers on was the tops of the handlebars now rub the instrument cluster when I turn the handlebars all the way to one side or the other. (Obviously something I only do when walking the bike into a parking place or some maneuver like that). The cover would hit even more.

I purchased mine as a kit, and it only came with the channels and the mast head. I’m not sure if you can purchase a T for it but I have not looked.

I went with 4”

Great! So glad it was helpful!

I couldn’t agree more. It was obviously a poor decision of the builder to use it. All the other joists I can see are okay. This one probably slipped through the cracks.

Thanks for the feedback! It was definitely learning experience but every time I sit in that room and look at that floor I’m grateful I took the time to do it. I’m sure you will as well. Best of luck.

Do you have a CRV?

I’m sorry, but I have no idea how to help you with that. You might check your fuses.

@@RighttothePointDIY It has been working until few days ago, now the display screen up is blank, not showing anything and the steering shortcut bottom stop working

I believe you can, but I would always check with local building code. Also, if you’re running waterlines through the attic, you would need to consider insulation based upon your geographic location.

Thanks for the comment. I actually talked to a couple of installers, and both had slightly different ways of doing it. However, they both were in favor of putting the hardie board over top of the lip just based upon their experience. The reality is if you waterproof correctly, it will probably be fine either way.

You are correct. The glue really doesn’t help that much. It’s just an extra bonding layer between the two joists. The only purpose of the glue and the screws was to hold that joist to the other one. All the weight of the floor is being born by the new joist itself.

Thank you Rick. I appreciate your nice comment.

So glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

I did not do anything there. I just overlapped it and then screwed the backer board to the studs.

@@RighttothePointDIY so, there is a small gap between the tile and shower base?

@@jpp9846 Correct

@@RighttothePointDIY I guess if the tile is over the wall flange slightly, there isn't really any other place for water to go... Thanks!

I have had no shoulder pain this far. Happy with the results.

Thanks for the comment. You make a great observation which I briefly alluded to in the video. Basically, with all of the water proofing I did on the Hardi backer board there is literally almost no chance any moisture will get through and therefore this additional layer is just an additional insurance in the very outside chance both my sealed grout AND the water proofing seal failed. It's not likely to happen. If water does get through the grout it will just run down the water proofed backer board into shower pan. It's been about 2 1/2 years and I have absolutely no sign of any leaking and I don't expect to going forward.

@@RighttothePointDIY how can it get back out to the shower pan if the bottom tile course has been silicone sealed to stop water being drawn upward via capillary action, etc? I’m not trying to create a “gotcha” situation, by the way! I sweat these details even though I no longer do outside construction. Around my house, though, the stuff haunts me because I’m a basket case:-)

@@howardemerson457 Good question. I should have clarified. I didn’t silicone the bottom of the hardi board because it is 1/2” from the bottom of the pan and the tile goes past the hardi board another quarter inch or more. Also, when I sealed the hardi board I also sealed the bottom edge just in case there was some ‘splash up’ that somehow would reach it (highly unlikely).

I hear ya. Basically that is what I did. The old joist just held the new joist in place. Didn't cost me that much extra to screw it and glue it to the old joist. The repair is holding up great.

Good question. That pan is a delta pan and it has very stiff Styrofoam backing to it. I did this in an apartment in my basement that I use for an Airbnb and after two years it’s holding up great. I have never showered in it although I’ve stood in it. My daughter lived there for a while and she said it was great.

@@RighttothePointDIY Great thank you for the reply. I assume you mounted it into a bed of a certain mortar?

@@doug2202 No. instructions said not to. I used a construction adhesive per the directions.