Floor Joist Repair Video

Do you have a sagging floor joist and need to repair it? This video goes through the step-by-step process of 'sistering' a new floor joist beside a damaged one in order to restor the structural integrity of your floor.

[@gfysyoutube]

Excellent tutorial. You saved homeowners thousands of dollars!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad it helped!

[@mechanicalman1068]

I’m a carpenter and general contractor and have been doing structural work for a couple decades. Miracle of miracles, but I find nothing to criticize here. Good work. Where I work, we require full depth blocking, not this diagonal straps. So yeah, can’t believe a diy video on KZbin is good and informative, not dangerously wrong.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

That is high praise Matthew! My father taught me to think things through, get good advice and not cut corners. Thanks for affirming his training. Have a great day.

[@mechanicalman1068]

@@RighttothePointDIY exactly. I’d tell my guys in the morning after we rolled out the tools “before you put your bags on, what are we doing today and how are we doing it?” Sometimes an hour thinking is a worth a day or more working, and generally gives better results than working and not thinking.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@mechanicalman1068 That is a good way to tackle a job. Think it through, make a plan and adapt as you need to. I’d hire you and your crew! LOL

[@sli43]

Why do you need to glue? The space only needs one joist anyway. Doesn't the new joist just take the place of the old joist.

[@mechanicalman1068]

@@sli43 good point and you’re probably right, but not knowing if there is some other load directly above it it’s hard to say. Also, the subfloor is attached to the old joist so we’d like to have the old and new function as a single member to prevent the new one from separating since it’s not held in place by the subfloor fasteners: another great reason to use full depth 2x blocking instead of those diagonal braces. Think of the new joist as a supplemental repair, not replacement. And it’s just good practice. But yeah, probably splitting hairs and it’s likely fine without it. I figure if it’s cheap and easy to do and the possible consequences suck, I’m just going to do it.

[@misterm7086]

Simply an excellent video. One of clearest, most direct I have watched on KZbin. Thank you!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks so much for the kind compliment.

[@InterCity134]

Super video. One modification I’d make is this : Don’t Jack it up to meet the string line straight edge. Target the jacked up height to align with the bottoms (at that point across the joist) to be just above the same height of the neighboring floor joists. You want the floor to be flat. The neighboring joists will have decades of sag in them and of you Jack this up to a straight bottom , that may push the top above the two neighboring joists - creating a high point on the floor above.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks good advice.

[@reneadinaro8183]

So what are you saying? Run your string(s) from the 2 neighboring joists only or in addition to running a string from plate to plate? Thank you.

[@barryhall5125]

Not really a viable solution since the height of each floor joist could vary. Maybe run 3 string lines, one on the joist to be repaired and one each on the 2 surrounding joists. Determine the amount of deflection of the 2 joists that are sound then raise the damaged one to the same point.

[@dalekrohse1871]

I am a fan of using some paraffin wax on the friction points such as on the new board bottom sides (at the sill ends) to make the final hammering much easier. It won't affect the holding power of the beam, only the assembly. Not much different from the wedges you remove on the top face. Together they would ease final assembly. Good video.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Good idea Dale. Thanks for sharing that

[@Hairlesssnake482]

The best video I've seen on repairing a joist. Thank you for sharing!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the kind compliment! I'm glad it was helpful.

[@troyw3874]

The best, straight to the point video I’ve found on this subject. Thank you.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Glad it was helpful.

[@flankerroad7414]

Great job, man, esp. the idea of removing a wedge shape off the top ends.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Jacob! I'm glad it was helpful. I saw that wedge idea online and immediately knew that was going to be so helpful for everyone doing this job. Thanks again for the comment!

[@drunkenfarmer]

This is a good common sense approach and a fairly easy solution to a scary problem. I would have no issues doing this in my house after watching this video.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks you sir!

[@ArturoM209]

Great video. I really like how you read my mind and reminded the viewers that the screws and glue arent the ones bearing the weight..loved your attention to detail

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for that feedback! I appreciate that.

[@kvesi6289]

Absolute best video on this repair. Thank you for showing how to rotate it in place!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Kevin! Thanks for the feedback.

[@brabantula]

First video I found that shows everything start to finish - thanks for sharing, exactly what I needed!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Glad it helped you out Joshua!

[@daniellacroix245]

This is a great full detailed video. The notches at each end is genius. Thanks a millions.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Daniel! I’m glad you found it helpful

[@poptwo4]

Great video. Explaining the little tips like cutting wedge in the end and which direction to force new joist in is very helpful. I noticed in the comments that some were commenting on the fact that the screws used were not structural. If you were replacing a joist that was intended to be doubled up to carry the load, structural screws or bolts would absolutely be required, but since the intended load can be carried by a single joist, any screw or nail will suffice for this purpose. Look forward to more videos.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Neil. I appreciate the clarification.

[@mechanicalman1068]

Yes, I noticed that too, but as you say they’re not necessary here. I’m a carpenter and contractor, so I know what I’m talking about. Id probably use a nail gun with 10D common nail, 12” spacing 1 -1/2” from top and bottom, staggered, which is how my engineer specs this sort of thing. That said, if it’s just the one, I probably wouldn’t bother dragging out the compressor and nail gun. Anyway, this is fine since they’re not in sheer and have little pull-out to resist. I would have liked to see full depth wood blocking though, which would have made pull-out even more irrelevant and make a stiffer floor above.

[@replyhere590]

@@mechanicalman1068 Thermal bridging concern if full depth structural bridging? Maybe a picky point since the joists are the biggest thermal bridges.

[@mechanicalman1068]

@@replyhere590 I’ve read over my post a few times and can’t see any reference to thermal bridging. Not sure what you’re referring to.

[@anxiousappliance]

The joists are glued so I don't see the point - but if not, headlok screws would be the ticket.

[@lucasspaniard8430]

Awesome video, nice bright basement and clear instructions! The only changes I would make are moving the jack between the two major knots, hoping to remove both dips. Also after glue and clamping, its much stronger to use three 16D common nails every 16". Finally adding blocking between joists on either side makes them much stronger, as they share the load, and will stop any buckling/ tilting in the future. Good work!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Great feedback Lucas! I appreciate that insight. In retrospect I would have used the nails for their shear strength. Thanks again for the constructive feedback. This helps all of us as we DIY.

[@lucasspaniard8430]

@@RighttothePointDIY no problem! I have had a few projects now with sistering joists or failed joists in general. I wish my basement I am currently working on looked like yours!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@lucasspaniard8430 Thanks Lucas. I have actually completed that basement remodel and it turned out even better than I expected. SOOOOO glad it's done! Now, next project....get the rest of my basement (my workshop) back to some semblance of order!! LOL

[@WA3TTS1]

Many Thanks. You covered every detail in both descriptions and illustrations. Actually a better video than the "This Old House" version of floor joist repair IMHO !!!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thank you very much for that compliment. That is high praise. I’m glad it was helpful.

[@beachwalker2574]

Thank You I needed this. I'm doing my kitchen right now the floor is up and the owner mutilated the sistering of the joists 5 joists.. The 1st owner used 2x4's on a 2x8 joist patching the cracks lolol I just replaced them which was fairly easy since the floor was up.. Crown up !!! Upon inspection I found 4 more cracked joist in this 1957 year old home in the crawl space which it isn't that bad to work in. You're video just helped me tremendously !!! Great job..

[@RighttothePointDIY]

I’m glad it helped my friend. Good luck with the repairs

[@TheDasbull]

Great job 👍. As a suggestion to others attempting this job, I recommend selecting joists that are "free of heart." The original joist had the dark line running through the center and the large knots = weaker lumber. Heart wood is perfectly serviceable as stud material but best to avoid for joist or rafter 😊

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Good point

[@rp9674]

I don't know why they're not all laminated

[@Golgi-Gyges]

In a pinch, at least try to orient the knots at the top as the top of the board will be in compression and the bottom will be in "extension."

[@danfarrell5177]

@@rp9674 money, probably?

[@rp9674]

@@danfarrell5177 true, that's usually the answer... to everything!

[@byronmackay1305]

Excellent video, love the step by step. Thank you!

[@mrabimohammad9280]

Beside that the joist is cracked because of the knots the joists were not braced to distribute the weight on the others , I think the most important factor in building a house is to pick the lumber carefully even if you pay more to avoid problems like this in the future. A lot of people have finished basements and have problems like this and they don’t know and if they realize it would be a way bigger job to deal with .... and what I see a lot these day is that a lot of builders and contractors try to cheap out on material and tackle things fast to move to the next job and make money unfortunately.... on daily basis I see inexperienced people do jobs around and take advantage... do it right from the beginning and keep you conscious clear ... good job by the way and thanks for the video.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

I agree with you. That joist should never have been installed. Glad you liked the video.

[@kreg_92]

Really appreciate this video, thanks for adding time on to your job to share it with us and help strangers

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks so much for those kind words. KZbin videos have helped me so much it is good to give back.

[@zarekpirkola7095]

Very much appreciate the level of detail you went in with this video. I will need to do this to some of my sagging floor joists and so this video is super helpful. Fantastic tip regarding using the strong to measure the sag so you know how much you want to jack it up.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

So glad it was helpful. Good luck with your floor joist repairs.

[@Mrdealornodeal618]

Very detailed. I would love to see more. Good work.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Will! I creating new videos as I tackle projects. Hope more to come.

[@burtgomez7735]

Great job pointing out all of the details involved.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Burt! I appreciate that compliment. If you want to help me get to 1,000 subscribers I would appreciate you subscribing. Trying to build my simple DIY channel. :)

[@antonsalivon4079]

A very good informative video. I am about to repair two damaged joists in my bathroom so I found the video very helpful. Thank you so much!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

So glad it helped you Anton! Good luck!

[@lucash1980]

Can screw your 2x4 jack together in a T shape to make a strong-back for less bowing/flex. I recall that you can sister or scab on a smaller piece over a crack so long as you extend 3' or 4' on either side of the crack and glue and bolt it. This can help for a quicker fix and possibly avoid moving plumbing and electrical. I like the idea posted about rotating the joist in the middle of the joist bay with a notch in the sill or just relying on the floor flexing in the middle easier. Seems like rotating next to the joist would create a jacking effect on the floor screws/nails in the old joist that could lead to squeaking. Also like the wood glue in the crack and in the sistering vs thick construction adhesive. I would have left the jack in to let the glue dry to counteract the memory/bend from that crack/sag. The old joist (and floor) will want to go back to where it was for the past 20 years. I would also add solid blocking. 14' is a LONG span. The blocking would take some of the spring out of the floor (which can show up in the ceiling drywall seams over time) Loved your video. Sucks to run wire or plumbing to new spots only to find that there's a structural problem that requires pulling it all out. Damn the builder for picking that joist and putting it in the middle!!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Good points. Thanks for sharing. I thought about the shorter piece to repair but didn’t want to worry about it possibly failing again and the amount of effort it would’ve taken versus just buying a whole new joist made me decide on putting an entire new joist in. I agree the builder should never have installed that joist in the first place. It was such an inferior piece of Lumber and it was just a matter of time before it failed. Thanks for the comment.

[@sunildsouza8685]

My first job tomorrow without any skill set. What a Video WOW for an amateur

[@RighttothePointDIY]

I hope it helps you Suni. Good luck

[@dougroy6372]

This is the best video for a DIY man as I watched some videos and this was my last one before I put 5 11 foot joist in by myself

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Doug! I appreciate the feedback. Just FYI, I have had some consistent feedback about using nails instead of screws and I understand the concern so that I would have changed. However, the joist is really carrying the weight and the screws were more to just keep in place. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with how it worked out for me. Again, glad it helped.

[@SteveSales99]

I had to repair several 2x9 joists that an idiotic plumber notched out on the bottom, slap bang in the middle. Structural engineer recommended sistering but I had to use 12mm high tensile bolts and glue (bolts spaced at 400mm in a zig zag pattern) - was written in bold not to use screws or nails. I guess everyone's situation is different, but I would always recommend getting a professional to do the calculations. Like the tips on getting the new lumber into place 👍

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comments. Good to know.

[@lukiss01]

Thanks man. Got a 60 cottage with an uneven floor. Hoping theres enough space under the house to preform work.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

You are most welcome. Good luck with your project

[@AnimusLucida]

Very thorough explanation and I greatly appreciate it.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks David! I’d appreciate it if you subscribe to my channel. I’m trying to get to 1000 subscribers. Thanks buddy

[@c.brionkidder9232]

really great video. Lots of experience lessons in there, thanks for helping me avoid making rookie mistakes

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mauielectriccruisers]

Very informative and clear. I’m a total newbie so I wish there was more on how to undo and redo the electrical and insulation, but I know that was not the main topic of this video..

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Veganator. I totally understand and I applaud you for 'digging in'. If you have to move wires the most important thing is to make sure the breakers feeding those wires are turned off and then, go to the closest fixture (assuming this is in a ceiling) and take it off, disconnect the wire and pull it back past the area of repair. It can get much more complicated but the most important thing, again, is to turn off the breaker feeding that line. If you are uncomfortable at all (and electrical is nothing to be trifled with if you are unsure) then I recommend you get an electrician or someone who knows what they are doing. Good luck!

[@sandbathes]

Very informative - thank you for editing out all the banging and drilling!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks. I renamed my channel 'Right to the Point DIY' because too many DIY videos show the no brainer stuff like the drilling and the hammering. We just need to know how it was done right? LOL. Thanks again for the compliment.

[@dinnerwithfranklin2451]

Brilliant! Exactly the information I was looking for.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Great! So glad it was helpful!

[@haroldboucherjr615]

Thank you brother, was dreading this project till i saw your video. I know i can handle it now.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Harold. So glad it was helpful! Best of luck.

[@condor5635]

Most excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to make it while you’re glue dries etc.!! I have to do this in my garage. But unfortunately I have drywall and garage door rail ceiling mounts and an attic access hole to deal with! Your unfinished ceiling makes this job so much easier but still challenging! Great work!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Yes, you definitely have a lot more work to do than I did! At times like that I just keep telling myself I got to do it right or I’ll have to do it again. LOL Good luck buddy.

[@mohamedzarookfaizeen5422]

Excellent job jone and fine explanations. Thank you sir

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thank you. Glad you found it helpful

[@PlanetMojo]

I had to sister a joist back in the day. I built a pool table in the basement and had to notch the joist to get it up the stairs 😉 No pool tables were harmed during the procedure...

[@RighttothePointDIY]

LOL

[@davidm.steeves57]

Suggestion: allow the adhesive to set (24 hours) before removing the jackpost. This will allow better distribution of load to each lamination of your built-up beam.

[@noelbaker2944]

I could be wrong but I disagree with waiting 24 hours for the glue to setup before removing the jack. The glue is added for additional strength but will crack easily if 1/8 natural settling is going to occur. I'd rather have the glue adhere between the 2 beams in its natural state to lesson any stress on the glue and seal the beams together in their more natural state. I think that's what the maker of this video intended as well.

[@jamarone5902]

1.6k likes and 103k views. Free to like. Information is priceless.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

That it is!

[@sumfunnow7800]

Great demonstration, info, and tips!!! Build more!!!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thank you! If you want to, please subscribe. I plan to do more.

[@tigerseye73]

Thanks for sharing, this is good knowledge for home owners to know.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the compliment tigerseye. I'm glad it has been helpful.

[@huejanus5505]

Repaired a cracked beam in my basement the same way. I did put a large bead of glue on the top to glue it to the underside of the plywood subfloor as well, yes it was messy.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Cool! I never thought about gluing the top. It would be mess but hey, at least you stuck it out and finished the repair! (sorry, love puns). LOL. Thanks for the comment!

[@atbdangus8290]

I was wondering that same thing - about gluing the top. I will do.this and will be able tonscrew the upstairs subfloor into the new sistered joist, but if you could not do that,a messy glom of glue might help avoid squeaks. I have also seen taking a 20° angle off the inside top to slide it in the other way (bottom in first). Fantastic video - good level of detail in your description and great editing! 🔨

[@Mike-cn3qc]

Well done, great explanations.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Mike!

[@Dtileandremodeling]

Well done. One thing to point out tho. You want to nail the joists together with nails or structural screws.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comment. Actually, I did screw them together. It is in the video about 12 minutes in.

[@jean-claude7580]

@@RighttothePointDIY I think the operative word here is "structural". I think that when sistering the screws are subjected to shear forces, meaning forces that happen because the weak joists will "try" to sag more than the new one, resulting in the two joists slightly sliding against each other.. Nails are good at resisting shear forces. The will tend to deform before they break. Standard screws are not so good for that. Structural screws are supposed to be stronger against shear forces. On the other hand glue is excellent against shear forces so standard construction screws might well be adequate for you case.

[@CT-um7zq]

Thank you so much, this video was very informative and i really appreciate the level of detail.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks CT. I’m really glad it was helpful. If you want to help me out please subscribe to my channel. Thanks

[@wummerG]

I'm looking forward to needing to do this one day :)

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Well, if you do need to do it one day I hope this video helped.

[@citticat2]

I sure am not looking forward to the costs.

[@MOAB-UT]

Pretty well done. Smart to go full length, to screw and glue. This will hold up very well. Not much to critique- maybe add some block bracing but that is about it. Adding a few (3) posts in the center with a thick 2"x10"x 12' or 20' on top that spans multiple beams would add a ton more support. That would get you a post every 4 or

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks DG. I thought about the block bracing but in the end didn't think it necessary with the other joist braced like it was. As to adding other posts, the house is over 40 years old and the only joist sagging was this broken one so I don't think it would be needed and would have really limited the use of that room (made that space into an apartment). I ended up hanging two layers of 5/8" drywall on that ceiling for sound proofing (We are renting it as an Airbnb) and there have been no cracks or movement whatsoever. We are pretty happy with the result. Thanks again for the comment!

[@MOAB-UT]

@@RighttothePointDIY No worries. I am sure it will be "good enough." I do music and 5/8" is fine but for isolation, you do what is called an Acoustical Drop Ceiling. You can still use your 5/8" but then add a drop ceiling under it and include an air gap. A guitars top is solid wood, yet it still resonates. Sit in your car with the window closed and try to hear someone in a nearby phone booth- you won't hear a thing. Two layers of glass and a AIR mass in between you. You can also coat the materials with a treatment. You can go deep with it. In a pinch- do your 5/8" but add another 5/8' under it separated by some air. It will be much quieter.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@MOAB-UT Thanks for the info. I actually used a 1/2” layer of fiber board and then, between the 1st and 2nd layers of 5/8” I put this special sound proof caulking. It never really hardens and makes a sound deadening layer. It is pretty quiet now. Plus I put heavy blown acoustic popcorn on the ceiling. It works!

[@MOAB-UT]

@@RighttothePointDIY It works! Padding and carpet upstairs would help as well. Besides air, mass matters. Density matters. Decoupling surfaces like ceilings and walls make a big difference. Here is a video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pprSZ6WEmZ6nd8U&ab_channel=HomeRenoVisionDIY

[@tasmaniandevil7610]

Thanks Very informative . I'm about to level and repair mine

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks so much for the positive feedback. I’m glad it was helpful. Good luck with your project. Let us know how it went

[@citticat2]

I have joists that extend out that holds a balcony. The balcony needs to be replaced so the contractors want to cut the joist at the stucco and run 15 ft boards through the stucco and attached them to the existing joints under the living room. I suspect they will do the same -- glue and screw the joist together. One of my big complaints, because I just had a new fence built, is that contractors don't bother to pick out lumbar, They go to lumbar stores, take whatever lumbar the employe sets out, and then the contractor uses whatever lumbar they have. They don't care what shape the lumbar is in. So what could happen --- the new wood could have these irregulars in them and a few years down the line they will have to be replaced. There is a house down the block that is getting built with rotting lumbar -- no kidding - and the inspector is passing the job. I feel sorry for the person who buys that house. You better believe when this job get done I am picking out my own lumbar. Thanks for the video.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Wow! That’s pretty crazy. I will tell you I used to have a house that had a balcony that was done a similar way. I think the key there is the lumber that they choose to make sure they have the crown at the top to avoid sagging. Also, because it’s going to be free hanging, they need to make sure they have enough going into the house and that they bolt it together when they sister it to the existing joists.

[@citticat2]

@@RighttothePointDIY ​ @Right to the Point DIY I am not sure what a "crown" means but I am going to find out. The joists now sticks out 5.5 ft so they are going to make it 5 ft and then extend the wood passed the stucco 10 ft. The balcony will be on the 5 ft. part. I supposedly have a very competent builder coming to give me an estimate and I am doing my homework before they come out because I never know how knowledgable they are or will they use that knowledge on my balcony. After all the balcony "doesn't sit on their property". Thanks for the tips.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@citticat2 In the video I talk about it when I first show the new joist.

[@citticat2]

@@RighttothePointDIY When I was at the lumbar store he recommended Pine and I see that pressure-treated is a whole lot more expensive but pressure treated wood is toxic. I probably need abut 12 of these 15 ft long. Do you actually think the contractor is going to take the time and look for that "crown" part? One contractor didn't want to work with me because I wanted to pick the wood out and now I am so sorry I didn't do this for my fence I just had built.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@citticat2 Well, if he knows what he is doing he will read the lumber correctly before making the repairs.

[@goldistocks609]

Great video, very informative, thank you

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the compliment. I’m glad it was helpful.

[@mwrcrft]

When I sister a joist I notch both end so I don't lift the sub floor when installing and a few shims at both ends gets it nice and tight, Pl premium on top and side with the same screws you were using add blocking on both sides and call it good.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Good stuff. Thanks.

[@mwrcrft]

@Volkan about that just what is needed

[@MexicanMovie]

thanks a lot, I saved this to my favorites !!!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks very much!!

[@Jessyjames60]

I liked your video and how you explain the procedures in fixing a floor joist. There is one concern that wasn't address is the thickness of the new sister joist. The existing looked like 2x10 over time it can shrink to 9 1/4 possibly. Your new joist is running fatter than that. Possibly need to trim the fat on the sister to match the existing. Especially at the beams trying to rotate joist would be hard

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comment Michael. As to the shrinkage i’ve never really heard of that before. When I put this new joist in it didn’t take much to beat it into place and they seemed to match up well. If that other joist had shrunk that much I sure didn’t notice it. But, regardless I appreciate the comment. Something to consider.

[@lh98]

@Jessyjames60 a 2x10 measures in at 1 1/2”x 9 1/4” today’s lumber is not what it used to be. Look at today’s 2x4 that’s 1 1/2”x 3 1/2” back in the day they were true 2x4. I have a house built in 1900 and the studs are true 2x4. Anyway your 2x10 didn’t shrink to 9 1/4”. Now if you buy pressure treated it’s possible while it’s still wet to be slightly swelled past the 9 1/4 and it will shrink a little as it dries out but it’s def never a true 10” wide...

[@sanatandharma4435]

Great video, this helps me a great deal. Thank you.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the feed back Sanatan! I'm glad it helped you out. Good luck on your project.

[@abgaming8249]

This video has adds to! Great job btw

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks! Yes, they have put ads on most of my videos.

[@abgaming8249]

@@RighttothePointDIY do you get more money from the adds? Or do you not like having them?

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@abgaming8249 KZbin is putting ads on my videos because I’m not yet a KZbin partner. Therefore I’m not getting anything for the ads. I would rather there not be ads but if they’re going to do them anyways I would rather have that money go into my pocket than theirs. Make sense? LOL

[@abgaming8249]

@@RighttothePointDIY yah!

[@phillph8391]

Thank you sir 🙏🏻 it helped a lot 👍🏻

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Excellent Phil. So glad it helped. That’s why I did it.

[@FUNTRAK]

This is the nicest video I have seen so far, very clear instructions. One question, could you have used just one 2x4 instead of two and did you join the two 2x4 by nails. I have a bottle jack with a very small dia face, and I am afraid of using two 2x4. Thanks

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thank you for the compliment. I would not recommend using just one 2 x 4 because it can bend very easily. One thing you could do, is put a small flat piece of steel on top of the bottle jack that would fit under the two by fours. That way it would be lifting on both of them.

[@hindiorg4963]

@@RighttothePointDIY Thanks for the quick response, I will definitely use two 2x4.

[@DaxxTerryGreen]

Well done friend.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the kind comment. The repair is doing great.

[@jameskelly2777]

Very thorough

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks James. I appreciate that.

[@lningzhang6655]

perfect job! maybe fasten both joists with bolts, how many pounds lift from the jack?

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Lning. As I mentioned in the video, some do connect the host with bolts but I don’t believe it is necessary to hold the weight. The jack is a 3 1/2 ton jack but I certainly wasn’t lifting with near that much force.

[@ajeneharris]

great teacher

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thank you for the compliment. I appreciate that

[@MrMockingbird1313]

Hey Guy, I would suggest you add some 20b nails because screws can snap. Nails are NOT brittle and withstand expansion and contraction better.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the note. I have explained this in a few of the different comments but the reality is the screws are only holding the old joist to the new one. They are under literally no shear weight. I probably could have not even used any adhesive because the only purpose of both it to hold the new joists to the old. The weight of the floor coming down on the joist is being bore by the ends of the joists. When I did the video I didn’t outline that like I should have.

[@allennoftz6610]

Very nice informative well made video !

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Allen. Glad it was helpful.

[@BikerBenny]

I have a rotten end where the joist sits in between cement blocks on the foundation top. Makes figuring it out much harder for a novice

[@RighttothePointDIY]

That is tougher. You will probably need to jack up the floor on the joists on either side of that one, take out that old joist and then put the new one in. A lot more work but doable.

[@shannonsmith148]

Well done video.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Shannon

[@paulwilliams6753]

Well done!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Paul!

[@kiwiswat]

I also suggest using the GRK R4 screws. Much better on load handling as they are framing screws. Pricier but way better, otherwise 16d nails are more than enough. The glue is super important. That joist wont go anywhere :D

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks kiwiswat. The repair is holding very well.

[@Alphasig336]

Glue won’t help but epoxy would help the cracks but it’s not necessary when your sistering.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Agreed.

[@bubashalom8274]

Thanks, and good job

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks !

[@AyalaJD2730]

Absolutely loved the video, amazing explanations. Just one question, i was shopping for screws but that warning on the box had me confused of which screws to use. The one you used said "for use in any non-structural construction project" floor joists arent considered structural or are they referring to something completely different? thank you once more!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey there. Yes, in a previous comment somebody also pointed that out. The thing here to remember is these screws are really just holding the two beams together. The joist is carrying the weight of the floor vertically. I just held it in place with the screws. Think of it this way: I could’ve taken the other joist totally out and it would’ve been just fine. So really it’s just holding it to the other joist. It’s not really holding any sheer weight from the floor.

[@rainman2671]

Thank’s, video help greatly

[@RighttothePointDIY]

So glad it helped!

[@lenaely6146]

Really great video. 👍

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks!! Appreciate the feedback.

[@paulmonk7820]

Would it be easier to get the new joist in place by jacking the old one a little higher, thereby raising the floor slightly?

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comment Paul. Technically it would be easier but it didn't take a lot of hammering to get it in place with the amount I had it jacked up. Also, you don't want to jack a floor up too much as you can unseat nails and even damage flooring that may be on top. The amount I had it raised worked just fine.

[@stevencollins507]

i love that the screw box said NON Structural but nice job

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Steven. Yeah, fortunately, they were not holding the weight of the floor as much as just holding the new joist to the old. The new joist was what is holding the vertical load.

[@pdilutis]

Well made video. Thanks so much

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks!

[@Soothsayer-rs5nb]

Would have never used that joist in the first place !

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Agreed!

[@babycanari5]

Thx for sharing it

[@RighttothePointDIY]

You are most welcome

[@paulmonk7820]

Use bolts instead of screws to secure the new joist to the old one.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey there Paul. Thanks for the note. I've had that suggestion a few times and have responded by stating that the screws are not holding any 'shear' weight. They are just holding the new joists to the old one. The shear weight is being taken by the joist itself.

[@WeGoWalk]

You could have sistered that broken joist more easily by using 3/4 inch plywood on both sides of that broken joist, and glued and screwed it in place. This is what the city code inspector said would be sufficient to fix the overscan and damaged floor joist issue.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the feedback. That would’ve been possibly little more easier. However, the repair is working well.

[@cgonedfishing]

Love this!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

[@kennyg572]

EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!!!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful

[@derekj3601]

I wish I could have seen you removing the wires. Did you disconnect from the breaker box and pull them out through the holes of the joists? Is there a max number of holes I can drill to reinstall the wires and maintain strength?

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the questions Derek. How you deal with the wiring really depends upon how accessible your wiring is and where it originates and terminates. So, in my case I only had to disconnect my wiring from two places (a run to a ceiling fixture and a run to a wall switch) and pull it back and then drill the hole I needed I’m the new joist to rerun it. However, my whole basement was exposed studs and easy to access. In extreme cases where you can’t access the termination or origination points of the wiring (the breaker box or outlet) you may need to actually cut the wiring and put in a junction box to splice it back. Obviously do that with great care or get a licensed electrician to do that part if you are not experienced enough. As to how many holes you can drill, it’s my opinion that the fewer holes you have to drill the better. I drilled one 1/2” hole with my auger bit and ran my two wires through this single hole. That single hole should not impact the strength of the joist much at all. I recommend making the holes as small as possible without hurting the wiring when you’re running them through. Hope that helps.

[@geebody8969]

Thank you sir..

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks GEE BODY. I’m glad you found it helpful.

[@JailDoctor1]

Thanks. Very useful. I'd like to know more about glue cured in a released state. Whv not under stress with 2"x4"x2 upright?'

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comment. I don’t really know if it makes much difference. It did not settle that much. The reality was the glue may not even have been necessary since the majority of the weight is carried by the new beam.

[@anthonyrobinson973]

Can you sister a joist with rot or is it better to replace it and is it a significant difference in cost to sister than replace

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Anthony. I would take a rotted joist out and, more importantly figure out how it rotted to make sure it didn’t happen to the new one. There is no extra expense to sister verses replace as far as I can tell.

[@_educatedgenius]

You're awesome dude

[@RighttothePointDIY]

LOL. Well, if that means it was helpful that is good to hear! :)

[@joedarden2276]

Outstanding

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks! Glad you liked the video. I hope it was helpful.

[@chodge8366]

seems like a big span for a 2x10. We were always taught roughly 1 inch tall per foot up to 12

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Well, the entire house was built this way and the span of each joist is roughly 14 feet and they are spaced at 18” centers . There are no other sagging or cracking beams in the entire basement and this one only sagged due to the knots. The house is over 50 years old and if it has done this well for 50 years I think they chose the right sized joist.

[@morganottlii2390]

Jw: would you think that building up a standard milled 2X8 to an actual 2"X8" rough cut joist with plywood plating to be the best way to replace floor joists that were used in the 1940's? Without going to a custom sawmill, I need to do that. 1/2" sides and 3/4" on the top gives same dimensions as current joists. Lapped joints on 16' span. Ie: sides are 4'-8'-4' and top is 8'-8' .

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey there Morgan. Sorry for the delayed answer. I can honestly say I'm not sure and there are far more knowledgeable people than myself who could answer. However, I certainly can't see the problem with it. Would you just glue and nail the plywood to the surfaces? Other than a possible concern about compression of the plywood that is carrying the weight (which may not even be an issue) I sure don't see a problem with that solution. Good luck.

[@morganottlii2390]

@@RighttothePointDIY glue and screwed the plywood. Really stiffened the boards up. Seams are staggered to avoid a week joint. Thanks for the reply, maybe an idea you can use.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

@@morganottlii2390 Awesome! Great idea that I will keep in the back of my head for sure. You never know....

[@Phuongmy16]

Great video thanks

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks Lucy My! I appreciate the feedback.

[@brianherald5756]

Great job but I’d definitely had used some lag screws 3 inch maybe 3/ half inch

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Brian. Thanks for the response. Definitely could have used lags but, as is pointed out in many of the comments, the screws are not holding any real shear weight. They really are only holding the new joists to the damaged one. The new joist is holding the weight (vertical) that the old joist held so the type of fastener was not as much an issue. In the case of my repair, it has been holding great and it has been almost 2 years. Thanks for the comment and I’m glad the video was helpful.

[@Golgi-Gyges]

Very good job and video. I offer critique. I'm not a fan of that construction adhesive - at least not that brand. There is another brand that dries faster and is much stronger...sorry, I cannot produce the name now. Even better, but requiring more care would be gorilla glue (polyurethane) - it will drip. So I would have spread it thinly. And I know your reasoning about the screws merely holding the two boards together, but I would have used some lag bolts with washers...about every foot or foot and a half. These could have been predrilled and partly installed on the replacement board. That's just me. I like to go beyond.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Hey Glenn, thanks for the feedback. I would be interested to find out what brand of glue that was. And thanks for your suggestions. There are a lot of different methods that can be employed to sister the beams together. The repair is now a year old and I’m glad to say it is doing great however, your method would have been even stronger.

[@Golgi-Gyges]

@@RighttothePointDIY thanks. I'm sure that your repair will be fine.

[@dannyjessup9978]

You should have had 2 tubes. I would have caulk the end to wall, caulk under bean at the sill and made sure the grain was cuped in on the bad beam, and mention that to leave the clamps until caulk is dry.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Appreciate the feedback

[@perpetualgardens]

My existing joist have termite damage, if I use this method to sister a joist can I cut the termite damaged section out and just leave the new joist in place? The damage runs about 25% from the end of the joist.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Absolutely! Remember, the old joist has failed and in my video I left it just because it was not doing any harm. The new joist was now carrying the weight. I just used the old joist to lock my new joist in place (meaning I didn't have to put in the joist ties to keep it upright). I know this probably goes without saying but if think you have active termites still you will obviously need to treat that first. By the way, if you were going to remove that stud, you will need to use a temporary support beam such as a piece of 4x4 along the bottom of the floor alongside the old joist that you would place the jack under to lift the floor high enough to get the new joist in. You may even need more than one jack depending upon how far the floor is sagging.

[@perpetualgardens]

@RighttothePointDIY Thanks for your feedback. The termite damage is old and I don't see any current issues. I will use treated lumber for this project, but, I will have

[@perpetualgardens]

The whole house treated for termites after my project is finished

[@nyetloki]

A full length sistering, at that point you probably dont need to do half of what you did. The new joist can handle the load while the old joist anchors the flooring. You basically replaced it.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

I hear ya. Basically that is what I did. The old joist just held the new joist in place. Didn't cost me that much extra to screw it and glue it to the old joist. The repair is holding up great.

[@dp0813]

To test crown: lay on flat surface & see if it rocks or not like a rocking chair. If so, your crown is the side touching the floor.

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks for the comment. That is indeed another way to determine the crown as long as you have a very flat surface.

[@lucash1980]

Hahaha, rocking requires level floors! So, not on my floors! Easier to eyeball the crown

[@tilemarblegranite]

Looks good!

[@RighttothePointDIY]

Thanks!

[@raekc4839]

Do you use glue for an exterior porch board beam?

[@RighttothePointDIY]

I think I would use the same stuff that I use on the inside. Liquid nails would work just fine