Wow. You are built for this.

This looks nice but seems a bit too long, i usually do a few minutes and then start with the easiest grade and work my way up. But i'm definitely gonna take some of those into my routine :)

I can't stop looking at her forearms...

When the hold is bad so you skip it:

It's still magical how people are able to talk while they are in the wall. I started to rewatch the technical videos since my perspective changed and i can relate way more then a year ago. Big thank you to Alex and Robin :)

This video improved dramatically my climbing, thank you so much Alex.

I think it was more a mental barrier

Thank you needed that

I thought it also had to do with her being stronger and her centre of gravity being further away from the wall than thinner climbers. This helps her on every other angle, but hinders her on steep slabs.

That slab with for 4 tries was best what you can get. Janja did it with 4 tries. Other athletes need more attempts to do that slab. How comes that she does it better than others and it is called as weakness? Janja does lot of things very creatively and i would say noone would teach to do things in that way and for average climber even impossible to repeat (for example, Janja kick, dyno moves statically), but it is working for her. It is why she is the best. Doing slab dynamically is just one more example how to break beta in Janja style.

She hasn't been doing super well with slabs for a while, the European Championship and another world cup where Oriane won coming into mind. I would say it's a weakness of hers, or at least she doesn't seem to be as confident as she's approaching to other styles of boulders. Also, I honestly doubt five ten is the best choice for tiny edges..

I love the Olympic analysis videos! It would be awesome if you analyzed more competitions in the future too!

I reckon that it would make more sense if you have taken heights and body types into account and look into betas of different height categories, cuz after all in boulder comps, athletes are looking for solutions that could work for them individually. For this problems, shorter ones or ones that have smaller physique have more room to maneuver on slabs. Taller or more packed ones doesn't share such advantage in this kind of situation. Among those taller, more buffed athletes, Janja broke the beta, Jessica (Zhilu as well) found the beta.

Hi thanks for the analysis, there is a Chinese climber who also analysis the same boulder probelm, and he has a point from a different perspective, let me try to summarize it. This problem favors shorter climber. Due to the volume is very shallow, taller climbers naturally need more space to turn their hips but those space are not given in this problem. Examples: 1. shorter climbers(brooke, ai, larua, zelia, camellia, under 160cm), they all did this problem gracefully by turning their hips and facing sideway, which is the most natual and efficient way for them. 2.Natilia(161cm) did the problem by crimping the edge of the volume so she can stay close to the wall with additional frictions. 3.Oriane(167cm) used the short beta but it took her forever to micro-adjust. 4.Janja(165 used the short beta initially but couldn't do it then she did the beta break. 5. Jessica and Luo used the best beta for taller climbers, not turning the hips, faceing the wall completely and did the probelm gracefully. Above are alll the climbers who did the problems, to summarize short climbers are better at this kind of problems because they need less space to more so they are stay next to the wall. Props to taller climbers who also completed the problem. Original video is on www.bilibili.com/video/BV1xdWUeAETf/, if anymore is interested(Chinese).

I wonder how much of her struggle is because of her toe injury last year? I feel like that kind of thing can affect your balance or even confidence for a while.

Are the differences not largely due to Janja attempting to go two hands to the low hold? I feel the issues which you compared to other climbers would have rectified itself if she had gone 1 hand to the lower hold and 1 hand to the higher hold like everyone else shown besides jessica pilz.

The big lesson here for me is that climbing will humble you. Even the greatest get humbled once in awhile.

Funny that Janya’s solution hasn’t been referred to as a beta break. While I was watching it during the comp, my immediate reaction is that these super delicate moves are a weakness, but only relative to her other superlative abilities. Not that it matters much, but I imagine the route setters will learn something from her performance as well, and may try to challenge her further in subsequent comps.

Glad you re-upload without music

🗽 The second try of Janja was really what a superstar is doing.🙏 .

Would love to see more analysis of the Olympics!

This was cool but was this reposted? I thought I saw you do something really similar a week ago or so

She got that testosterone voice

Would love to hear your opinion on Alex unexpected slip some moves later. According do the athlete, the foot felt very secure hence he did not concentrate actively but used the moment to relax and collect himself for what lay ahead.

Really useful, videos like this provide excellent insight that can be reviewed over and over again. More like this please!

Just fell off the top of snzn ramen yesterday. Alex just floated, I'm trying that next week.

Soooooooo good thank you.

Holy shit she’s jacked

Solid tips

Great breakdown. Also the music volume was perfect.

Just curious: Where would you draw the line between route setter error and not route setter error? For instance, IMO, Men's Finals Innsbruck 2024, bouldering problem #2 would be a route setter error. Is there a situation where favoring one type of climbing in climbing competitions is a route setting problem? Like would it be a problem to set crack climbs over and over?

Very insightful video, could do with a lot more of this for comps, where we get to see a variety of techniques used, as well as figure out what works (which is different for different climbers). Sad to see some climbers not make finals, but separation is the name of the game and this isn't bad route setting, it's just unlucky route-reading under pressure. If the orange volume wasn't there for a right toe hook, then it has no purpose, so there were clues available. Keep up the great work.

Did not in fact drop the mobility routine

Great, informative video. Very detailed!

Thanks for covering. It was absolutely tragic that the routesetters put such a difficult and unreadable move at the 12 point marker. Over half the field was unable to showcase their strength on the lead wall, and that's unacceptable.

It's a sad fact of lead comps that you only get one go. I am sure all those who fell on this move would do it easily on their second go. I don't even think it's necessarily due to a lack of skill that they failed but certainly for whatever reason they all misjudged how good that foothold was. So the question is why did they misjudge it? Was it polished or dirty? Was it a type of hold that looked textured but was actually smooth? It's hard to tell without a decent close up. Another problem I'd like to mention with the route setting is it's fine to have a few moves with bad feet but it's bad setting to make a foot slip so consequential. As an audience member I'd rather see an athlete slip and then catch themselves rather than slip and end their run. That way athletes still need to work hard to minimise mistakes but have a chance to make a come back which makes for exciting viewing.

Fantastic analysis, made me subscribe hope you have more in the same vein

LOVE videos like this!!! Thank you!

Robin, great analysis, really interesting stuff, thanks for sharing, PLJ

A great idea of such analysis videos. And robin: you explain it so beautifully, clearly and comprehensibly - even for hobby climbers. 🤗 more of this would be lovely! THANKS ALEX & ROBIN!!

Congratulations! Don't be too self-conscious about yourself on video Alex. You're great to listen to and your coaching tips are fantastic.

Why didn’t you analyze everyone who made it? You didn’t even discuss the silver medal winner 🤔

This was awesome! If you do another, it would be cool to see a comparison between Nonaka Miho and Mori Ai's climbing styles in the women's olympic semifinals. It seems like Miho does a lot more weight training than Ai, and I'm curious how that changes the movement vocabulary each of them chooses to use.

Very interesting! More of this please.

As a spectator it’s a lot more fun to see an athlete fight till the end rather than falling stupidly with tons of energy left. The route offered great separation passed that point, and it a was frustrating to watch only half the field give a good fight. Great analysis btw, more of that please!

About 4 betas. Which do you think was the most efficient? Which was probably the intended beta? Adam looked casual on this move.

Doing an analysis of a climb on rock would be so cool!

I would have liked, but was a limitation of the broadcast and not you, to see a better perspective of the foothold. The readjustments by many athletes, and the difference in success and failure suggests to me this was a textured talon amidst an untextured surface, or rotated in such a manner to have little distinct edge. I think many athletes decided in the moment to either control the stance or power through the stance, but if the hold were bigger or worse or smaller but better then everyone would have done basically the same action successfully.