The converter should accept an RF cable and allow you to 'tune in' the various channels. I had to do that when using the VCR as shown in the video. The limitation might be what your PC monitor supports directly. For the demo I had a cheap USB capture card and used that to display/record the output from the HDMI on the converter. Hope that helps.

My Hyperboom with the original round style power connector (Not USB-C like latest version) is not charging. When power cord (UE HYPERBOOM Factory cord 4.7v ) is plugged in, the power indicator flashes 3 times and unit goes dead. Any ideas?

I haven't, but when I was disassembling this one, I could see it, but it looked like you have to remove one of the speakers to access it.

I'm not sure if yours is different, but I believe mine, with the round style connector, uses a 19v unit to charge the battery. I wasn't aware that the newest ones uses USB-C, but that is good to know.

Thanks for the like and sub, much appreciated. Thanks also for the feedback on the audio, good to know!

@RepairingFaultyTech yeah man most new channels have tinny or echo filled audio. Yours is spot on

Happy New Year to you too. Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to be able to offer a repair service right now. You may want to look to find someone local that can repair this, due to the size and weight of it. I wish you well in finding someone who can help. Thanks.

The corrosion seems to have started in the battery compartment, so undoubtedly it will have travelled onto the PCB. There also seems to be quite a lot of flux residue on the board, especially around the resistors, so it's worth another look and a good clean up at the same time. Thanks for the comment.

Most, if not all of the pads go straight into the blob, a few do have the 10k resistors in their path, but have a direct link to the blob also. Two of the 'faulty' pads go via R14/R15 which were the resistors that I removed. I think checking the voltages is a good call and when I get a bit of time in the new year I'll pull it apart again and test that. I would like to get it working again, so if I can make further progress I'll post a revisit video. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

You could measure the voltage between each pad and the battery negative terminal without opening the case.

Yes, very annoying! Thanks for the comment.

I wonder if that one is any more repairable than the 2007 one? Thanks for the comment.

No problem! It was a fun fix and I hope you can find a replacement for the subwoofer soon. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

I've lots more repair videos on the way and more on the channel. I haven't thought about doing a set of tutorials but will give it some thought, but the focus will be on repairs, at least for the short to medium term. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for subscribing. Much appreciated.

Thanks, much appreciated.

Thanks, much appreciated.

I agree, I used these for 1206's in my latest video (SMD practice kit) and they worked well, but anything smaller would be too awkward I think.

Hi, I got mine from Amazon, although you can probably find it at other retailers as well. It should appear using a search for SMD Practice Kit. There does seem to be a few different ones now. I use a really old (20+ years) Weller iron and in this video used a PT Long Conical 0.8mm tip. At some point in the future, I'll probably replace it as this one isn't temperature controlled unfortunately. Hope that helps!

@ alrighty, thanks for your reply! I’m looking for a new iron because I only got an parkside iron which is not very good…

Give it a go, I found it was fun to do, except perhaps for those 0402's initially!! Mind you, once I started using the tweezers, even those weren't that bad.

What microscope are you using?

It's a Tomlov DM201 Pro

It was from eBay. If I remember, I searched for earphone repair cable and found one that just had the plug and bare wires at the end to make it easier to fit. Hope that helps.

I want to know r u using 3 pole wire or 4 pole ? By default company uses 4pole wire ( balanced connection) and you are also using same . But i changed 4pole wire to 3pole ( unbalanced connection) . How is the sound quality change

It was 3 pole If I recall correctly. I'm pretty sure these headphones don't have a microphone so the cable would have had a common ground and then a wire each for the left and right speaker. The new cable was the same as the one that was removed and I didn't notice any difference in sound quality. Thanks for your comment.

@RepairingFaultyTech if u see, professional headphones use balanced wire ( 4pole means 2pole for each speaker) & Not for mic . I have also changed this balanced connection to unbalanced connection ( 3 pole means left right ground) because I don't want to have more wire around my neck . So unfollowed the connection provided by company which is balanced.but what feel is there is little noise sound or distorted sound comes not clear sound . But I can't compare from both the connections . What I wanted to say is 4pole wire connection produce clear sound & less nosie . 3 pole give less clear and sound . That's y professional uses 4pole connection. Seprate ground for both speaker for less noise catch . I am thinking of changing the connection to what company had provided.

@RepairingFaultyTech yes 3 pole but at the end where plug is placed. But from the speaker to the 3.5mm jack 4pole wire is travelling . And. At Last inside the 3.5mm jack they made ground common . Why dont they provide 3pole wire from the speaker itself. Because wire catches interference so they give seprate wire . Whole idea is for making sound clear . I think if my new wire connection will broke I will replace it to previous connection provided by the company.

No problem at all! Hopefully you don't ever have to repair it though. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Hi, it's not a system I'm familiar with, so I don't know whether it would work. I've only used this for getting a picture from older consoles/computers. Thanks.

I think I looked at doing that when I fixed the Astro Wars, but as I recall they had different model numbers on them and I was a bit concerned that the pinout might be different, so didn't want to take the risk that I'd end up without a working Astro Wars as well! However, if I can get another Firefox then there will be a part 2 and that will be one of the first thing to try. Good luck on getting the Scramble going! Thanks for taking the time to comment.

@@RepairingFaultyTech Ah right, I assumed they would be the same. Wonder if checking for continuity through the different coils would shed any light on whether the configuration is the same? Appreciate your point though - you don’t want to end up with two broken games, that’s not the idea! For info/reference, the component in the Scramble is a TY-81 28 TDK so if that’s the same, at least you’ve got another option to look for on eBay! My Scramble is now working, just went down a bit of a rabbit hole refurbishing the case etc - 5 mins to fix it, 4 days (and counting) to restore it!

Thanks for the info on the component. The one in the Firefox seems to be a TDK TX-30, not sure what the differences are but if I can get another Firefox working then I'll take note of the pinout and voltages. Can then compare it to a Scramble/Astro Wars to see if they are pin/voltage compatible. It would be useful to know if these components can be swapped between units, which might hopefully help to keep a few more of them going!

@@RepairingFaultyTech Would definitely be interesting to know if they are all cross-compatible - the boards are so similar I would really expect them to be but maybe not. It's such a shame when things like this are thrown away for the sake of a component worth pennies - not just retro stuff but new stuff too. I'll keep an eye up for a follow up video 👍

Thanks!