Thanks for the Tutorial mate

Don't see the point of this. It sits there and when you remove it to willfully spew gasoline fumes into the air? Wtf

this may be a stupid question, but do you really need the short hub ?? or can i do it without

.) The constant tension OEM hose clamps are fine and always preferable to worm clamps, especially cheap worm clamps. Thermal expansion is a thing and they incorporate this. Worm clamps - unless you go specialty stuff worm clamps with included springs to compensate for expansion - are a downgrade. They're also very easy to work with or remove if using the correct tools. Such cheap chinese hose clamp pliers are a couple $/€/GBP and should be in your toolset. :) .) Silicone hoses are always more prone to leaking than quality rubber. Yes they're more durable when exposed to heat or oil but that comes at a price. They're cheaper to buy and make though.

Mot fail?

My man, i have been looking for a video like this for ages. This is perfect. Thank you!

My car has the stock ones but they sound terrible, would you recommend these or some standard smaller circle ones?

I relocated my charcoal canister while installing the turbo on my NA8. I initially just removed it the same as you have done, however I could smell raw fuel in the engine bay sometimes, which was a bit off putting. The intercooler piping route required the removal of my washer bottle, which was in the left side of the front bumper. I ended up fitting the charcoal canister with the intercooler piping in place of the factory washer bottle. I replaced the charcoal in the canister with fresh pellets used for aquariums and piped the fuel vapors through the fitting at the base of the canister. There is a little pod filter at the top of the canister to allow the fuel tank to vent. An aftermarket washer bottle was fitted where the canister had been and I wired in an aftermarket inline pump to wash the windscreen.

Please don't do this on a street driven car in an emissions controlled area unless you want to be committing a crime. I hope the next video shows relocating the canister to another area on the car. I am sure you can relocate it under the car or hide it in the wing, and likely the valve could tuck behind the fusebox out of sight as well.

Junk

Between the sawing and the sewing, you really showed some perseverance! I rekon that you could improve your pipe a bit with securing the ends of it better. Maybe 3d print some things that slip over the pipe ends. One to clip or clamp over the roll bar at the back and one that uses the screws at the front of the top. Just a thought. Good job mate! ..Banana

well done :D Banana

Great job Zain! 🍌

thanks for help with the plastic thingies near seatbelt mounts I couldn't figure it out

amazing video, been looking to get zetacrds and this has just convinced me, love the channel

OMG man YOU SAVED MY LIFE! Thankyou so much for this info i been struggling with heat having no idea wtf is wrong with my miata that was the same issue THABKYOU SO MUCH!!!

Are you going to heat wrap the headers?

Horrible. Thats not the look of a NA

you should make a video browsing the junkyard, and now i need a crv table for my hatch

Is that table a stock/oem item? VERY cool! curious if the US cars had that. Often go to the auto junkyards and want one of those

Love this already. Subbed.

Hi bro

Thank you man I’ve been trying to fix this for ages and your vid was exactly my issue 🫶

Hi there, just wanted to say this video was a BIG help to me, thank you.

Is the lip for a MK2?

Can’t you just use a relay instead of the resistance

Where did you get the rear spoller?

Where did you get the plastic adapter piece ??

Got the same one for my NBFL. I do need to find some decent bucket seats because at 6 foot I touch the roll bar itself a little bit.

hi guy, thanks for your video, it is very useful ! good job !

Gorgeous clip, I have a Mk5 golf GTI, widebody with some nice spacers. Fronts are running BBS Monzas and rear is running BBS CHR, both are on 18" alloys.

Duct tape is almost always the answer for something that moves, but should not. Nicely done.

Very good! Will be attempting this on my na soon

not a huge deal but there’s actually a way to completely remove the hvac panel. underneath the knobs that you use to control the various air flows or temps there are super tiny screws you can remove giving you access to remove the hvac panel freely.

Really good video! Not something I had thought about doing, but will definitely now. You made it look simple :)

Absolutely gorgeous cars

Cheers for the vid mate, should be installing these on my Eunos tomorrow :)

People who stayed till the end 👇

Could you try the sensitivity of the parking mode. I want to know if someone backs into my bumper if it will trigger the dashcam.

Fucking thank you. I been looking this up for months.

Looks amazing properly transforms look of car, hoping to get one for mine soon just need to find one suitable for soft and hard top, will definitely be back to this vid when I get it!

Great video! Thanks!

Are they daytime running lights to?

Looks great mate, you can use double sided tape if you end up taking it off and on again and it helps to line it up alot I found just gives you a rough position

Tnx for sharing, i have 03 NB and i must replace my hoses, looking for recommendation for a complete kit, can you recommend one .

Do these pass a UK MOT?

is it me? or does anyone else wipe out the dirt and grim when you expose part of a car that normally isn't exposed?

Hello met you at Adam c fest I’m the guy who just brought one

how have the zip ties help up to the heat from these resistors?

If you have an NA Miata (MX-5 Mk I) that is earlier than late 1996 production, the headrest speakers are also wired completely incorrectly to work with a weird quirk of the factory head unit. If you have an aftermarket stereo, you really need to trace out all the headrest speaker wiring and rewire the whole thing. If you don’t it’ll all sound like crap, because, among other things, the speakers are wired out of phase with each other.