I'd be lying if I said this camera hasn't been a pain in the butt and a half to figure out. I have almost 40 different film cameras including SLRs and point-and-shoots of all shapes, sizes, and technological functionality, so I figured this camera would be a breeze to play around with. But holy flipping heck the fact that I have to fight the automated systems in some way shape or form anytime I'm not in full manual mode really makes me doubt how much use I'm actually gonna get out of this. Not to mention I bulk load Vision3 film in DX-less plastic cannisters so I'm certainly gonna have a fun time with this next time I go for a photo walk...

Trichroming. Pretty awesome.

Solarisation is easy. Just try to make a print in the darkroom of my former highschool... However, at the time (the early 80s), seing that effect motivated us to really experiment! Looking back I would say, manipulating the "true to life, reality depicting" medium photography, presented definitely an invitation to reflect upon the medium, even if not everyone "attended".

Today, people are waiting months or even a year or more, for repairs from Leica Germany. Be aware if you need service.

This video is FANTASTIC!

I just bought dektol 3.8l poweder. I noticed you dilute it again in tray, I always though it went into tray undiluted? what dilution you using there

ISO setting is annoying but its a pretty reliable camera for its price.

No matter what review I watch on this camera, no one ever says anything about the picture preview button on the bottom left side, next to the lense. Not a single person mentions it.

P. S. on the original 1979 version of Yankee II: the lid locks

Hi Azriel - Got a kick out of your video about this Yankee Clipper II. Wow how horrible. Just found mine hiding on a top shelf!! Purchased 1979 when I inherited my first Nikkormat, used a lot. I was on a budget, and the little thing worked great. It developed many precious reels of 35mm, making me feel like a "pro" even though I wasn't. The "gap" isn't there in the 1979 Yankee, the plastic reels are not flimsy like yours, the agitation stick/thermometer is slotted in, and it takes half the time to drain. And oh ... box says: Yankee Photo Products, Inc. Culver City, CA 90230 MADE IN USA Yes it's true, was American made. That's why. This new version is most certainly a knock-off. I can almost make out my original faded price tag, but the only thing clear is the 65 cents. I was poor, so it wasn't much. Thanks for doing this, it was fun

It's a nice building...a shame their going to tear it down...

Back in the day, Nikon had best lenses, Minolta the best bodies and Canon was in between. Olympus and Pentax in the mix as well. My Dad bought me a Maxxum 7000. A friend had the Max.9000 and loves that camera.

LED meter means that when you don't use batteries, it doesn't become a distraction in the viewfinder, unlike the match needle. The KX is better than the MX as it has the shutter speed overlay in the viewfinder and theres a stick that indicates the shutter speed setting and the match needle. All one has to do is match the shutter speed with the match needle. The LX is by far the best of the bunch as it combines the two together. It's like the KX but instead of a matching needle, there is an LED for each shutter speed setting outside of the frame in the viewfinder. 1 LED lights up next to the optimal shutter speed. When used fully mechanically with no batteries, there are no distracting match needles. P.s. i like to shoot without a light meter. My eye is my own spot meter.

Wow what a great video! The organisation, presentation, and production- it’s like something i’d watch on the discovery channel!

Amazing film… absolutely gorgeous shots

I bought an F80 brand new in the year 2000 and its still like new. I also bought a brand new F60 but i gave it away it also was like new but i didnt like it it was to auto for me, plus it had no apature preview like the F80 has. As a bonus i also purchased a sunpack dedicated flash that zooms automatically on the F80., the flash works with the 28-70mm kit lense. Buy lithium ion rechargeable batteries, like i use, problem solved

I know I am 8 years late but I personally love the Pentax 110 24mm f2.8 on my Sony A7IV. It does have a heavy vignette but wow what a fun and hilarious lens to use.

I have this camera but whenever I look through the lense it’s blurry 😢 I’ve tried every mode but it’s always blurry is that normal?

Hope you're doing well :-)

How long does the blix and developer stay good for before you need to replace them? I don't plan on doing it too often so not sure if I am going to be off better waiting for my rolls to build up before mixing a batch up. thanks!

My favourite EOS slr is my Canon 50E (ELAN), but I also like my Canon 300V. Great video, Regards Rob (UK)

Most of the medium format cameras that you see used today (such as Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica) were designed as studio cameras, so no wonder they are heavy and cumbersome to hold in the field. I love my Fujifilm 645i, which is basically a point and shoot camera, as well as my Fujica GW690 (aka Texas Leica) and my Rolleiflex. They are great for taking them along and just deliver. And as for film costs: Ask yourself how many keepers you get from a 35mm film? And how many from a 120 film?

Hello Aziel, I haven't seen one of your videos in a while, I really like them. I was looking for a Miranda TM and your video with the Sensorex came up. Very good camera, although you probably spent more money on gasoline, chemicals and film than what the camera cost you, but I understand why you have to do this. If you have the opportunity to find a Miranda or Soligor TM (it's the same camera) I recommend it, although I imagine you don't use the light meter on these old cameras, this one works very well and uses 1.5v batteries instead of mercury ones. The photometric cell is in the mirror as well and uses not the Miranda mount but the M42, in my experience it is difficult to find Miranda lenses other than the 50 mm at a reasonable price with the TM the problem is solved, it is also very pretty and uses the same viewfinder as the Sensorex.The only drawback that I find, but that also happens to the Sensorex I think, is that with very low film sensitivity the meter does not work with high speeds and vice versa with high ASAs, but no one thinks of using high shutter speeds with low film sensitivity so it's not really a problem.

I actually liked the look with the DP-1. After I bought one I realized the meter isn’t accurate at all and then read all the reports about how the cells used by this meter have a lifespan. And most became inaccurate in the ‘90’s. Just a warning to anyone wanting to buy an F2 w/the DP-1.

my suspicion is that a 1999 model is probably too late to get any kind of novelty from the images? top of the line consumer digital images from that era probably aren't dissimilar to the absolute worst smartphone photos. Could be totally wrong but I could see much weirder tech being involved in the 1997 models. Although just getting basically any video camcorder from the 90s and using it instead is probably a lot better...

Just a technical unnecesary thing,, 80 iso is still considered normal sensibility, all the precious 20 to 64 as been discontinued due to create need for digital, ,( those 35mm shooting like 6x9 cameras is too much). by the way really nice pics.

Used mostly in the past the Agfa Vista films and had a nice color rendition

New video soon ?

One of my favorite cameras. Got it unintentionally, thought Id hate it. Gone on to love it and buy a bunch incase of breaking.

Picked up an FE at the thrift store for $15.. Works perfect and have ran about 20 rolls through it at this point im more than happy with it

Nyhehehe. That's what I need, sir

I am a Canon user and still have my AE-1, A1 and T90 and I too was disappointed when they introduced the EOS range. I had a number of FD lenses and just couldn't afford to ditch them and start fresh. I only succumbed to the EF range when I bought my first digtal camera, a 40D. I am going through similar problems now, with the introduction of their mirrorless cameras and the RF mount for their lenses. Fortunately, this time around, an adapter is available that allows me to use my EF lenses, several of which are from the expensive L series, on my R5. As such, it's going to be a while, if ever, before I buy any RF fit lenses.

That’s soo cool! Thanks for sharing! I was still remember this coming out and thinking how it would look. Still THE best version ever made.

Great video! Just picked one up for my FD glass!

Thank you for the video, it was very informative. I was wondering, what did you on post do to recover the overexposed and underexposed photos? Thank you!

Great video. I have this exact camera with lenses.

I had purchased a Leica iiia a few months ago. It recently had a CLA and no holes in the shutter fabric. I must say that once you get over the learning curve associated with the film loading process, the camera is small, beautiful, and fun to use. I am using some 30-year Soviet Svema low ISO film. I live in a hot and sunny climate, so the low ISO works in my favor. I have received some positively unexpected results.

I love your videos! Always, very insightful and thought through. Also, your photos which you so kindly share with us are so cool. I just love them. My all time camera is a love between the Minolta X-570 and you guessed it, the Nikon FE. Thank you so, much once again. God Bless you. Roger

Great shots! The 620 is an amazing camera - I sometimes forget it's 37 years old now, because it just seems so modern when shooting it. RIght now I'm shooting Ferrania P30 in it and the shots are just curling my toes.

Been using Ilford RC glossy paper in 4x5 cameras for years - rate at 6ASA. Then contact print onto same paper to make a positive. Easy!

Once the EOS-1 was released, I sold my T90 for $1 more than what I had paid for it, along with my 24 f/2.8, 50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.2, and my 200 macro. And bought the EOS 1 and their trinity of zoom lenses. To shoot with an EOS 1 is to understand why Canon became the professional’s choice for a 35mm SLR. As noted in the video, the EOS 1 could focus on horizontal and vertical lines. In contrast, Nikon’s F4 could not. If that wasn’t reason enough to make the switch to an EOS 1, the use of a rear focusing button sealed the deal. This button, activated via custom function #4, allowed the user to pre-focus on a spot, say 2nd base, and then wait for the decisive moment to take the shot. In contrast, the Nikon F4 didn’t have this capability. Therefore, the user had to: 1) press the shutter button half way and wait, or 2) put the camera into manual focus. This feature alone made the EOS 1 a favorite among sports photographers and photojournalists. Looking at press pools at sporting events like the Super Bowl, one saw a sea of white lens (Canon’s pro lenses are white while Nikon’s are black). Pros were switching from Nikon to Canon in droves. So much so that saying someone “made the switch” was taken to mean they sold their Nikon gear for Canon. Lastly was Canon’s introduction of professional quality zoom lenses like the 20-35, 28-80, and the 80-200. Meanwhile, Nikon sat on their laurels stuck in the 60s with the belief that zooms were inferior to prime lenses. But with the use of aspherical lens elements, Canon proved them wrong. Canon had the versatile 20-35 and 28-80 f2.8, while Nikon had their 35-70, which was an antiquated inferior and less versatile design. It would take the better part of a decade for Nikon catch up, but by that time Nikon had lost the vast majority of the professional and advanced-user market.

Your videos are always thorough and well produced. Thank you!

Don't forget to date your pictures.

Only in the mind of Minolta.

I developed DS-4 and DS-5M in ECN-2. DS-4 is dope acid. DS-5M is pure soft nostalgia

Damn I miss these videos.

Thanks for your article about the Ektar 25 in 35mm. I happen to find a couple of rolls of Ektar 25 in my freezer - in 120! By reading through your article, I am really looking forward to using it with my Mamiya 6. Before that, however, I need to get some experience again, with old color negative film in my Rollei 35T and Rollei 35, and soon Rollei 35S. The first experience with a non-frozen Gold 100, that expired in June 2000 are quite promising. Just scanned that roll, and it turns out very good, that said, I need to use the Restore colors and Restore fading options in Vuescan with my Nikon Coolscan 8000ED.

I enjoyed watching your experimentation and making people aware of paper negatives. Paper negatives have been around since the earliest days of photography but over the past decades they have been mostly for pinhole. Large format film has become so expensive that many of us use paper negatives instead or in addition to sheet film. The results can actually be quite good but to get the best results you should pre-flash the paper to control the contrast and improve dynamic range. Just flash the paper under the enlarger with just enough light that it doesn’t actually start to fog the paper. Once that’s done load the paper in the camera and shoot it. You also need to use a proper iso if you aren’t using flash. I typically use iso 3 for Ilford Multigrade paper so shutter speeds tend to be quite slow. You can also use Ilford Direct Positive paper which will give a positive image.

Ansel was a pioneer artist of the highest degree who helped bring realization that photography was viably an art form all in itself. 😎

the list golden limited version I have Leica R6.2 golden limited celebrating Hongkong turned over into china. Hasselblad 500CM golden limited. Mamiya RB67 SD golden limited. Mamiya c330 golden limited