Since I just acquired a Powermatic 3520C this tool is just what I need. My old lathe spindle was 1x8. The Powermatic is 1.25x8.. The price ($95) is reasonable too.🙂🙂

Thanks John for all the information on this new part! I’ve been looking for one and here it is! 😊My lathe is 1.25”x 8 tpi! I may wait till you have the one made out of stainless steel! Thanks for sharing!

In awe of your skill and patience.

Slava Ukraini

do you have an info on how you wired up the spindle? every video i see is the same info. always how to do the x,y,z motors or install a new motor with a vhd. but not found any with connecting stock motor :/

Nice setup. I will definitely design and print my own chucks. Can you tell us where you got the rotary adapter for the head stock?

Thanks John for for the update on your new stop! Seems like it’s going to work out very well! Cheers

Very nicely done, I am wondering why you used a tool post for your cut off tooling. It would seem like a custom tool holder in place of the rear tool post would give you more room for your gang tools

Why not cut 2 boards at once? You have two stops and two clamps might as well double your production

I wonder if using a heat gun might increase the viscosity and push the epoxy deeper to the crimp joint. Neat idea thanks for posting John

Great idea John! 👍🏻 Guess CA glue would work too? Thanks for sharing that tip!

Absolutely beautiful. Congratulations on creating something truly gorgeous.

👍💓!

Would it be possible to get your STL files for your Vacuum Chucks?

Thanks for the update on the vacuum chuck! On your tail stock with the free spinning chuck where did you find that spindle with a 1 1/4” thread all I can find is a 1”x8 threads per inch? Thanks you John for sharing!

Great job! I do 90% of my turning using face plates and doing this will come in handy. To me a 3d printer is a must have tool and are quite inexpensive. I 3d printed all my blast gates on the 3d printer and they are much better than the boughten ones.

Very cool - thanks for showing your process!

Thanks John on the update!

Those turned out really nice John! Thank you for sharing your work!

Is the accuslice product still sold? Thx

Why print them so tall? PLA is plenty strong in compression. But the offset way above the clamping axis is adding unneeded torque to the jaws. Shorten them up so the printed "parallel" surface is just above the top surface of the vise. You'll get more clamping force with far less load on the jaw.

WOW !!!!!!!!!

You CLAIM that you cut the wood to 1/100,000th of an inch? do you know how ridiculous you sound when you said that, a cigarette paper is 0.02mm thick yet you think that your bandsaw can cut to 0.000254mm in thickness, even your claim of 1/10,000th inch is 0.00254mm. You need to go back to school and learn basic math. But at least in your video description you wrote down the correct measurement of 1/100th of an inch and 1/10th of an inch which is 0.254mm and 2.54mm respectively (you're still being optimistic with the 0.254mm thickness).

It's lovely to see the pursuit of perfection in such a specific subset of a craft. For aligning glue-ups precisely, I wonder if you could use a tiny dowel system by drilling 2 holes down through the body of the cylinder before slicing it into discs. Hole 1 in the bottom disc gets dowel-aligned to hole 2 in the next disc up, ad nauseam. The dowels would be smaller than tic-tacs!

Thank you for the update! In the future, will you make 3d printed jigs for disc with no hole in the center?

Thanks John for the update!

Great Video, thanks

This is nearly exactly the video I needed to help get me started with my 8L. You’ve helped at least one guy out here quite a bit! Thank you.

Beautiful handles! Nice job!

Do you mind helping a kind soul get started with pool cue making?

Utterly useless to the beginner

Great Video John!

Thanks John for the update on those jigs! I’ll be looking for your next video! As always thank you for sharing!

Awesome video! Thank you for the inspiration. I can’t wait for your next video. I’m off to research 3D printers now 😅.

Those turned out really nice John! Thanks for sharing! 👌

Great product John, I love my Accu-Slice, I have cut material as thin as .020 with great accuracy, I look forward to purchasing the Accu-wedge system to cut segments for ornaments , typically these are 3" spheres, I don't think it will be a problem cutting the 3/4" thick, 3" tall stock to get the segments needed. I'm greatly impressed with the accuracy of your product and just as impressed with the items you create and share in these videos. Thanks for sharing !

John, thank you very much for the informative video. I do have a question I hope you can clarify. At 3:53, on the tool offset tab just after you reset tool 10, you stated that both the X and Z are zero because "they have been setup to be the same value as the X and Z values for the System". Initially I wasn't seeing the same zero values but I then realized you had pressed the 'Zero button' in the lower portion of the screen earlier. This was the key I had missed. Then at 5:32 you mention "Do not change the values of X and Z in the center of the screen". I take it that this means, after setting the first tool, I should not ever type in values in the X and Z in the lower portion of the screen (assuming my physical tools do not change from day to day), EXCEPT for those times when a small overall adjustment might be needed like you mentioned at 15:14. Or if I do a complete library reset. Does that sound right? Thanks again for the great content.

I often use steel banding shaped into a "W". It acts as a spring, can be squished down to almost nothing, and won't attract steel chips as a magnet would.

great video and demo, when do you plan to star selling the tilting slicer, thx les

Thanks John for the update! 👍🏻

I’m european. I work in both units. Most tapes and rules use both. You get used to it.

Thanks John for another video on your new attachment for the Accu-Slice jig! Some interesting things could be made with it! I like that new dust collection you added! Thanks for sharing and stay warm! 😊

I have 8/4 Pernambuco, perfectly flatsawn... gorgeous board, no flaws,a perfect board really. If i just rip 3/8" to 1/2" strips wont that then be vertical grain...1/4 saen blanks?

It,s allways this talk of inches here and there. Why could not those inch people talk about the millimeters instead. This would make it much more easy to understand the mesaurments, says an European.

Nice job John, great ideas, 3D printers are fun

Thanks John on the update on that dust shield! Happy New Year!

Thanks John for the update!

Answers my question perfectly, thank you.

nicely done John, thanks for the viewing of the tormach in action

I would suggest looking into PLA+ or just printing with polycarbonate as its more consistent and almost exactly as strong as the carbon impregnated filaments. the CF filaments are also really abrasive running through your machine and you will have to replace the nozzle a lot more often. I would also recommend printing the jaws with the 2"x1" side or 1"x6" side so there is less of a chance of the layers delaminating as that is almost always the failure point of 3D prints. Another good way to increase rigidity is using the largest washers you can get away with to distribute force more evenly. you can also run bolts through a tapped hole vertically through the part to spread force out through more layers.