What chuck system is that to be able to dial in radial and angular runout?

What made you switch back to a floating holder? Why the jgs over another brand?

awesome!

Makes me want to get my own CNC lathe. CNC programmer/toolmaker by trade, but all I program is mills for die blocks.

What's the easiest sks barrel to do this too? I wanna chop to 14ish and thread 5/8x24 assuming its thick enough

What rpm are you cutting the tenon? I saw 210 on parting but what about regular cutting like getting your diameter to where you want it? Sweet setup by the way!

Beautiful work, one day wish to get my tikka 6.5 creedmoor customized. Thanks for sharing

The reciever set you want is the Dark Storm Industries DS25

If you make a expanding mandrel to put in the bore it would be easier to indicate it because the indicator would not jump around in the lands and grooves.

I’d really like to get my Obermeyer blank chambered and set. Not sure what caliber to do though. It’s 6.5mm

How much dose it cost to do that

Whats the best reamer to get for 6.5 Creedmoor pls

Hi, I cant seem to find any extra long indicators here in Australia only around 50mm long can you provide a link of a supplier Please

How much would this run me?

Very cool! Great video!

Great video! Would you be willing to share the item numbers for the tool holders and inserts?

Very nice work. It takes a bit more time, but I think this is the only true method to deal with any and all alignment issues except for maybe one so I will ask.... I see that the shank end of the reamer is held solidly. But how do you deal with the .0002"-.0003" clearance/play between the pilot bushing ID and the nose of the reamer? Although small, this gap can create an inconsistency when the indicator is run around the pilot bushing when you're shooting for .0001"-.0000" accuracy. Your bushing can also have .0001"-.0003" or more of eccentricity. Manson for instance, states that eccentricity of their bushings should be .0002" or less, but that's still enough movement to induce some error into your indicator reading. Or am I over-thinking it? Again, a very solid and logical design.

Ur a great machinest, great stuff 👍

U r a great machinest great stuff 👍

What’s the name of the boring bar

Great work and fantastic idea, I’d love to learn how to do all this, it fascinates me, cheers Yogi ✌️🇦🇺

Nice one mate 👍 Did you bore the Morse taper holder in situ, using the lathe spindle?

I don't think he sleeps much with all that thinking /inventing going on. Nice work Dustin

Great video - one small comment though - I don't think its a good idea to use the threads to test your reamer's run out. It would be best to design a tapered bar that would fit into the bore itself that could hold the indicators. How can you be sure that the tops of the threads are all within .000x" of each other (remember we are talking tenths here).. ? Anyway just thinking out loud here.

Really nice work. I really appreciate your videos.

Drew, you added the plus .002" to depth of cut for final reamer cut, total .009" on the final cut. .001" for crush and.001" headspace. You check go-gauge (good), then sdd .002" tape (bolt wont drop) and its good. Now thats all in the lathe, (hand tight) with no torque spec.. what ft/lbf are you using? This is not a hunting rifle i assume, and there has been on two occasions when ive run headspace of .001" where multiple factory ammo manufacturer wont chamber because of SAAMI ammo tolerance. Have you ever had to go back and add reamer depth? Do you always get consistent "crush" at your torque pressue?

Nice work Drew. That reamer holder is genius.

Part numbers for that little boring bar?

I will cut a chamfer the same angle as the reamer shoulder - when I started doing that it eliminated any chatter/singing I got when starting the reamer.

beautiful thread job

Really nice video and really nice processes👍

Where can I get one of those brown and sharp indicators you use with the 5 in stylus??

Hey got a question that indicator you say each line is a thou but that’s a 1/2 thou indicator so each line is a 1/2 thousandth.

Are tikka actions square

That's a flash tailstock setup mate. I'm impressed!

Great vid mate, subbed, cheers Yogi ✌️🤙🇦🇺

Well detailed process, I've appreciated the detail and thoroughness. Where did you find the long indicator arm and did it take any special adaptation to mount to the interapid?

A fascinating video and nicely done. Have you ever bothered to rough out the chamber to save wear on the reamer and time? Just curious. I wish I could keep my shop so clean! WH

I’m just learning machining. Are you using a spider on the other side of your headstock? Also, what’s the downside to threading with a live center? I know the steady rest might scratch the barrel, but there’s probably a way to mitigate that, right?

Barrels don't need to be cranked on. Accuracy is still excellent, without the barrel being cranked on. That is why barrels with barrel nuts exist....they are still accurate. I think a right hand twist tightens a right hand barrel thread, every time it is fired. Not like an impact hammer, but enough to make it tight enough. Christ bless!

Amazing video. I'm a home hobby garage gunsmith learning manual lathes and this just blows my mind. I 3D print so that's about as far as I've gotten with G Code (Which isn't much). You do amazing work. Looking forward to more videos.

I’m considering replacing my manual lathe for the same machine. Your insight was very helpful. Is it too terrible using the single dial on the standard operator dial? I would also know more about the “chuck adapter” if I heard that correctly? Thanks!

Hey Dustin, What tool insert and holder are you using for threading? Great job buddy.

Muito bom seus vídeos

I love building hunting rifles with pre-fit barrels. Watching the barrel being made was mesmerizing. Thank you for sharing!

How much does this end up running a person cost wise?

Hey Dustin, have you ever had the barrel slip in the aluminum bushing? Do you use any rosin inside of them? I’ve cut a few tapered bushings and indicated them in. After cutting threading or reaming it’s got .0008-.0015 runout. Appreciate the detailed videos, nice work.

Impressive work.

I enjoyed that thanks for sharing

I found a old mauser action i think would make a pretty solid start to a 35 whelen 🦌 🦌