amzn.to/40Fyj52 That one has its own motion sensor built in.

That’s what the builder used. It works, never changed it.

I personally hate fluorescent lights, but to each their own!

That's what I did a couple of years ago. I used a LED light fixture. It looks like 36 inch fluorescent tubes.

Because…..the video would have been about how to change a light bulb, and well that’s just not very much fun.

That’s a good point!

Awesome dude!

Had to stick with the basic aesthetic of my garage so….mission accomplished I guess!

when you need light in your garage, the end result is what matters.

I’ve heard that from a few viewers. Makes me think that relocating the bulb further away would actually help resolve that issue.

There is no ground. Same as every single lamp in your house.

​@@DadDoingStuffBack in the old days, the radio/alarm clocks had an auxiliary outlet so you can plug in a lamp, or coffee maker, or whatever, to come on with the alarm. Maybe your idea could inspire the manufacturer to include an auxiliary outlet just for the purpose of an extra light.

You are girl

That was my only question, I've never seen a 3-prong light socket adapter before. I have, and have used, polarized 2-prong adapters, or the lamp socket extenders with two side outlets.

Love it! 40yr solution!

Amazon, but they done seem to make my same one any longer. This one has good reviews and uses its own motion sensor. Basically same thing, just not physically tied into the garage door opener. amzn.to/40G1Xan

Heck yes!

Thx, I appreciate that!

That works too.

Does the LED interfere with the garage door opener at all?

@@JoeS97756 I'm wondering that also.

@@JoeS97756 no, the 150w equiv. I got allows for the cover to close.

@@flaviuskern225 I'm talking about the RF reception from the remote control. LEDs and CFL are known to interfere with the signal.

Tube/shop light is a good option!

Yeah agree with all that. Relocating the light totally negates any heat issues by the opener to. Regarding the laser “thingy”, it’s one of the best things you could put in your garage, assuming you need to accurately park a car in the same place repeatedly.

The wattage is also limited by the circuit to power the light. For example, of the light is switched by a relay, that relay has a current limit.

Girl

You mean “No”…..way that’s the coolest thing I’ve ever seen? It’s cool. You’re welcome bro.

Had a few requests for that, so I’m happy to make a video about that!

Did the LED lights affect the remote opener? I had to take the LED bulbs out of my opener because the remotes wouldn’t work with them.

@@DadDoingStuff Yes, please!

@@billyquinn2162 I've been using LED for a long time and never had a problem. That said, other viewers have reported LED interference. I gotta think that relocating the bulb further away like I do in this video would actually beneficial in helping to reduce that interference. (move the LED further away from the opener)

If that’s the opener itself, might be time to start shopping for an upgraded opener. If it’s the outlet on the ceiling that the opener is plugged into, well that sounds even more problematic. That could be loose wiring and would for sure be a potential fire risk. Hopefully it’s just the opener itself.

I’m pulling in the garage not painting cars in there. This is an interesting idea tho.

I found that the bulb that worked badly for me had a lot of corrosion on the base of the bulb. I sanded it lightly so the base was metal again and then it works fine. Don't know if something in the garage (maybe car exhaust) causes this corrosion, or just exposure to temperature extremes.

@@peztang.9459 Put a little dielectric grease on the threads of the bulb.

He’s way ahead of his time!

That's a great solution as well!

That’s rad. Our GDO button on the wall already has the motion sensor built in, so we get the same benefit. But not all GDO buttons come with that feature. So good call on the motion sensor switch!

Heck yes! Shop lights are great option!

Thx Fozzie……I should have thought that.

I have 3 long LED lights … but … I just may add more ;-)

Yeah, my thought as well. But I expect there are garages that don't have other light fixtures. In my garage I swapped out a couple of the plain light sockets for ones with plug outlets, and have LED ship lights plugged in to them. And being on pull chain switches, I can turn the shop lights off until I need them (and the regular bulbs are adequate for the rest of the time).

Fair question. For me there’s a few advantages to relocating that socket. First I can put a substantially larger LED light in that wouldn’t fit otherwise. But second, I can also ensure that the LED will not interfere with the garage door opener remote because I’m moving the LED further away from the opener.

LED bulbs often produce a fair amount of RF energy which desenses the door opener receiver. If you open the garage door and back the car out, you need to remain very close to the garage to close the door because the noise from the bulb degrades the receiver quite a bit. I've got to believe adding an external method of accommodating an LED light further away from the receiver would help reduce the degradation of the receiver.

I have used LED lightbulb in that opener but also LED lights that are automatic throughout the entire garage without an issue ever.

Yes ! I had this issue I had to get shielded LED bulbs to fix the issue. This is dependent on the door opener. It was something I had never experienced before. Also I'm a licensed journeyman electrician and this baffled me.

Yes, regular led bulbs can mess with the door opener operation. I thought there was something wrong with my wife’s car because my truck worked fine. I replaced the bulbs with led bulbs from Amazon that were designed for use with garage door openers and now it works perfectly. I’ve seen similar bulbs at Lowe’s but they were more expensive. My daughter bought a new car and had the same issue until she changed the bulbs.

Yep, and it depends on what LED

Thanks, I appreciate you saying that!

Thanks my friend!

Thanks for taking time to comment. 24v would be a good option I think. So far as the bugs, just stay on top of it. I’m sure a pest guy could spray in there quarterly and probably keep them at bay.

This is one of the reasons I chose a light socket instead of an actual light (like a shop light) for this project. Gives folks LOTS of options for what bulb or garage light they want to use. Appreciate you watching!

We have two in the garage shop and one in a basement storage area. 5+ years and still working. Probably depends on brand

I don't know....the guy in the video said he was a professional so it must be true. 🤣

"Do as I say, not as I do." 😄

Well people have watched his video and he’s getting money from KZbin, once you get paid for a job you are a professional, now it does not say the quality of work but congratulations you’re a professional

@@DadDoingStuff Professional what?

Awesome dude! Glad you found it helpful!

Hi Gerald, Regarding the sensor, my particular opener has a motion sensor built into the button on the wall. So anytime you walk in from the house to the garage, it triggers the light, which then stays on for a few min. Pretty nice when you just want to pop into the garage and grab something from the fridge or freezer. Regarding the wattage, I used a 40W LED, and my opener has a published rating of 100W, so my light is well below that. I assume they put the rating on the opener so you don't put in a bulb that gets too hot right next to the unit itself. Regarding the excess wire....I'm actually shortening mine and putting a new plug on it. I intentionally didn't do that in the video as I don't want to tell a bunch of KZbin DIY viewers to start cutting apart cords and re-wiring things. There's too much room for error. There's no issue with the extra wire wrapped up, other than aesthetics. Thanks for watching!

Yeah shop light is a great option for this!

All good! Every garage setup is unique. I say do what works best for your garage.

4’ shop light is a great option, depending on your particular ceiling layout. I have lots of stuff on my ceiling so they aren’t my preferred option.

❤❤ the idea of. Muti direction was good as mite. Work for some. Not all. But use whats best for. You. As the shop lite. Different ones voltage to take. In all. Light up. The garage. Be Safe

Seems some openers do have trouble with LED bulbs. I gotta think that relocating the LED further away from the opener would likely minimize that interference. So long as the light was moved away from the direction of the car/driveway, this would likely help.

@@DadDoingStuff As was told not to use at all, I feel that if we place behind the antennae we be good, RF is all over the place thanks for the advice and vid

@@fishycomics Happy to help my friend!

Yessir! Happy to help!

Thx Daniel. Yeah, everyone has their own opinions, and that’s totally cool. Reason I did a video on stuff we love also.

You clearly skipped ahead my friend..... 0:50

Thanks! Happy to help!

I like your thinking and agree that you could absolutely make it look nice and tidy. I have plenty of custom length electrical cords around my house, but that's definitely not something I want to guide most DIY folks on YT to be doing. I'll leave that to real pros, not amateurs like me!

Good question. I can only speak from my own experience, but I've gotten a lot of feedback about LED's interfering with the opener's signal with the remote. Might have something to do with the "incandescent only" messages. Some folks saying they couldn't operate the door from their car if the LED bulb was installed and lit. That's not been the case for me at all. I've had an LED bulb for quite some time and not had any issues like that. I've also not had any LED's burn out when triggering a remote close from my app, which does prompt a bunch of flashing. All that said, I THINK (but don't know for sure) that re-locating the bulb to be further away from the opener would actually benefit from the LED interference perspective. If you move that light socket further away from the roll-up door (opposite direct the car would be entering from) then I have to think it would cause less interference. Again I don't know, but it makes logical sense to me. Hope that helps!

There are shielded LED bulbs made just for the garage door. I had the problem where bulbs interfered with signal from remote car opener. Did some research and bought the special bulbs. No more problem. Bulbs were not cheep.

Agreed. On one hand, gives you more options of re-locating that socket further away. I'm an advocate for cutting cords to custom lengths, but I didn't want to take the YT DIY folks down a path of cutting electric cords and re-wiring plugs.

Sweet! A plug-in shop light is a great candidate for this as well, assuming you have the ceiling space for it.

😂😂🤷🏻‍♂️

It does work well for ripping stuff down. Kreg was nice enough to replace the saw. The new one has WAY less play in it.

Agree that a plug in shop light is a great candidate for this setup. Not as many actual light options and potentially not as many spots to install it as a socket (depending on your particular garage ceiling). But yeah, a shop light is a great idea!

Shop light - that's EXACTLY what I did after discovering this video and asking myself - WHY didn't' I think of that years ago! I'd recently replaced the two florescents hanging over the vehicles with a really bright-white LED I found at Lowes. I just had a hand switch hanging from the ceiling to turn them on as needed. I already had some of those adapters and just removed both bulbs and plugged each shop light in. Now instant daylight floods the garage when opened and I can control the lights manually using the garage opener wall switch.

@alittlemorepull Winning!!!

Yeah I think you can roll with a pretty bright LED with this setup. Mine was 40W and it's super bright!

A bulb that uses 20W is not a 100W bulb. It's a 20W. It doesn't matter that"Oh yeah, it's just like it was at grandma's house where the sloped cieling was kinda grey and there were spider webs around the closet door and she used a 100W and this is kinda just like that....." NO - a watt is a watt is a watt! It is specious and should definitely be illegal to sell or advertise something using a rating which it is not. It doesn't matter if it kinda looks like something you kinda remember from your kinda childhood. You can get used to the fact that different technologies produce different results from the same amount of power. A watt is a power unit. A Candela is a luminance unit. With changing bulb technologies, we should be using Candelas or Lumens, and not drawing fake equivalancies from units that do not describe what we're trying to describe.

@@gregfaris6959 I think you misinterpreted the original comment from @LoveThatRod . When he said a 75W or 100W LED bulb will only use 15-20W, what he meant was a 75W or 100W LED "equivalent" bulb. At least that's how I understood it. You are correct, a watt is a watt. No changing that. I think we (folks in general) are getting to a point of calling LED bulbs by what their incandescent rating would be, even if it's not technically accurate.