I didn't encounter that. That sounds strange. Not sure why the addition of the catch can would cause that alert. Maybe do some Googling to see if anyone else has had that issue with catch cans in general. Sorry I can't be more help.

Awesome!

And before anyone says “but the manufacturer knows best” clearly not when lifter failure is super common in Chevy v8’s for the past 20 years. Ask any mechanic and they will tell you to never go that long on an oil change, oil is cheaper than a motor….

Thanks for sharing!

Agreed! Took me forever to shimmy it out. Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful!

Perfectly normal in my experience. Mine ended up like that too. It's also just airborne oil and grime in the engine bay that ends up on that white tape so it's easily visible. If it were leaking or the connection wasn't tight enough, you'd hear air hissing out.

@@OptimizedDIYcool man thanks

This specific model (81-0805) is designed for: CADILLAC / CHEVROLET / GMC 2014-2018 Silverado 5.3L / 6.2L 2015-2020 Tahoe 5.3L / 6.2L 2015-2020 Surburban 5.3L / 6.2L 2014-2018 Sierra 5.3L / 6.2L 2015-2020 Yukon / Yukon XL 5.3L / 6.2L Visit the K&N website to see if they have one for your application.

@OptimizedDIY from the looks of it there's no difference besides the hoses. I'm sure I can install this to anything with new hoses. Thanks.

No

Awesome! Thank you!

Not sure. They're included.

Not sure. They're included.

Thanks for sharing!

Unfortunately UPR will not sell in California.

I don't think so but let me check tomorrow. Sounds like maybe a connection somewhere isn't airtight.

Indeed. Good point. I guess I might have made it potentially confusing by referring to the sides of the catch can itself when looking at it head on while assembling it. Thank you!

Probably not.

@OptimizedDIY it's your truck and not my problem. But I don't go past 8000km/5000miles. I don't care what the manufacturer or oil claims. The lab results and real world examples say otherwise. Remember "manufacturer recommended" really means "guaranteed till the warranty is gone" then they'll happily sell you a new truck or engine.

I certainly don't see more than an ounce or 2 in my catch can for the entire oil change. I do however get a ridiculous amount of water vapor/moisture during the winter. (That may not be a problem for you) so then I empty it monthly.

@@craigquannthat’s not how that works. Agree that 7500 miles is a longer OCI, but has nothing to do with PCV bringing oil into the intake. It’s entirely dependent on the strength of the PCV and driving habits (i.e more high intake manifold vacuum = more oil in catch can). Quality of oil can also increase oil vapors in PCV (look at oil flash point).

@@CiboloHemi lol. It's not about oil changes... except for the fact that extended drains increase oil flash as it degrades.....

Full synthetic. Again, that's the manufacturer-recommended service interval assuming the oil life computer doesn't have you do it sooner. Mercedes recommends 13k miles. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. The truck has an electronic oil life indicator as a percentage from the computer based on driving habits. Doing it any more often than that is likely just wasting money. If you think you know more than the chemical engineers and car manufacturers, more power to ya. Thanks for the comment.

​@@OptimizedDIY mercs take waaay more oil than an ls motor. Nearly twice the amount. Thats their reasoning. Oil is cheaper than a moter lol

​@@adzz8012 First, no they don't. Both my Mercedes and this Silverado take about 8 quarts. Secondly, capacity/quantity is irrelevant to the fluid spec and quality of the oil, i.e. the lubrication and protection it's providing. You can't just double the quantity and get twice the life out of the oil. That's not how it works. The point remains - if someone thinks 7,500 miles is too long between oil changes, they simply don't understand modern full synthetics. Period. And for anyone who doubts that and subscribes to the outdated "every 3k miles" rule of thumb (I hope you don't), I'd encourage you to use a high quality full synthetic like a Mobil 1 or Amsoil and then send your used oil off to get tested, which I've done. "Oil is cheaper than a motor." I also hope you're not implying that waiting 7,500 miles for a full synthetic oil change is going to kill the motor, because that would be a silly proposition.

@@OptimizedDIY is your merc the v8? Most mercedes i service take about 9-10 litres, on average. Ls motors take under 6. Well in australia they do. L98 Ls3 ls7 all take about 6 litres give or take. Some bmw's take up to 12, and also eurotrash has higher spec tolerances inbtheir engines. Ive always been in the camp of if in doubt change it out. Long chain hydrocarbons take x amount of time to breakdown, heat cycles will do that. Full synthetics take a bit longer to breakdown but not twice as long. 7.5k miles IS a long time between services for mineral and semi oils, as for 13k mile intervals I find that the end user thinks this means they can delay their service period longer, which is bad. The marketing dept and peoples stupidity is mostly why I say that. Experiance has taught me that i care more about their car than they usually do 😅

@@OptimizedDIY we do 10k kilometer or 9 month service intervals normally here. I do 5k kilometers on mine cos i get oil and filters at cost price haha and i own too many cars for my own good 😅 turbo cars should be changed earlier do to build up in oil lines being undesireable. I thinks its necessary for 5-7k kilometer oil changes in those vehicles.

Yea I've seen AFM cause some issues for people.

Facts.

To coat moving parts, yes, obviously, but not in the intake manifold... Take 2 seconds to do some Googling.

You're watching it - capturing the oil blowby you see that would otherwise be recirculated back into the air intake, so less carbon buildup in the cylinders, which should extend engine life.

It’s for people with boredom

​@@jkoonce4244 lol. No. Its for people who dont want that oil recirculating through their intake, blocking up their valves or causing other issue

​@@OptimizedDIYI didn't see any of that in the video.

@@Randald touché

do u think it would be a good idea for me to install a catch can on my 2021 silverado 2.7 turbo ?

Thanks!

Maybe contact the company for bulk pricing?

Silicon dioxide is quite literally ceramic.

Crankcase -> oil catch can -> air intake.

Wow thanks so much!

Indeed. Thanks.

Indeed. Well said. I'll be doing a 1,000 mile update soon to see what this K&N oil catch can captured.

@@OptimizedDIY Great, I will be looking forward to your 1000-mile update. I installed a UPR catch can last year. I don't drive the Yukon during the winter months, so all I find in the can is a small amount of what looks like oil. If you live in a colder climate in the winter, you will find a milkier substance in the can. Not sure if this is caused by condensation in the engine or from the heat of the can when engine is off, and condensation within the can itself mixing with the dropped contents. Catch cans do work, and I would recommend one on any direct injection engine. They should have come from the factory with one. In my Yukon, I purchased some transmission rubber lines and some OEM quick release fittings to be able to mount my catch can in the area where an extra battery would have been placed. Added some plastic loom on the lines and a few clips to make the install look like a factory catch can. Turned out really well, and access to the can is much easier to reach. Those quick release factory fittings are not cheap. If I could, I would have used the ones that came with the shorter lines, but the UPR catch can came with an upgrade braded line and there was no way to remove the quick release fittings without doing damage to them. With the longer transmission lines and fittings, I added about 120 dollars more to the install. Oh well, it looks good and that makes it worth the extra costs to me. The main reason I did the change was because the set up with the short lines were in the way of the oil fill cap on the valve cover. If you have a newer truck, your set up may be different. On my 2017 5.3 Yukon and the catch can mount on the fire wall brace bolt, the lines were in the way of the oil fill cap. Anyway, hope your K&N catch can works well for you. I am sure it will, K&N makes great products.

Thanks for sharing!

Yea it can be tough to identify a perfect day for the job. Ideally overcast and low humidity.

Indeed!

Thanks for watching!

About to go pick some up myself, heard nothing but great reviews on this product. Have been impressed with the Koch Chemie line. Nice video.

Thanks for the comment. A few thoughts: 1. As I noted in the video, Motorplast is not very slippery at all. 2. Slippery doesn't automatically mean silicone. You're making a lot of leaps in logic here. 3. Koch-Chemie is a reputable, premium brand. Motorplast is literally designed as an engine bay dressing. That is its only purpose. 4. We could contact Koch-Chemie and ask them, but these guys say it does not contain silicone: autobuff.com.au/products/koch-chemie-motorplast-engine-bay-dressing I don't know the exact ingredients either, but let's not speculate and draw faulty conclusions from assumptions.

Not really. That rubber gasket seats against the underside of the hood when closed so imagine that little corner is basically enclosed when the hood is shut. But even if it gets a little water on it, that's not an issue. The filter is also oiled. As for dirt, the point of any filter is to filter out dirt; all filters of all kinds - even the restrictive OEM systems - come in contact with quite a lot of dust and debris.

@@OptimizedDIY good to know thanks

I don't get it.

Glad to hear it!

Totally agree! If I had just bought a used car with 100k miles and wasn't sure if the throttle body had ever been cleaned and I wanted to do a deep clean, I'd definitely take it off. For a quick maintenance cleaning every oil change, I'm not taking it off.

@@OptimizedDIY I clean mine every 30k miles and do fuel system cleaning or anytime I change spark plugs witch is usually 100k miles

Sounds good!

I've heard this and yes, absolutely always best to be safe, err on the side of caution, and check manuals, but I've been doing it this way for nearly 20 years on all my different cars I've owned (including Mercedes), and all the certified mechanics I've talked to do it this way too, so probably a little overblown.

No

I did read that people had problems with the hose length for the F150 model. Thanks for sharing.

😎

2014+ GM LT-based engines are direct injected. The back side of the intake valves get caked with carbon deposits from oil vapors in the PCV system due to the absence of port injectors continually spraying and washing the valves down with fuel. Over time the deposits get severe enough to affect performance. A catch can prevents that by forcing the oil vapors to coalesce and collect in the can rather than going into the intake manifold and eventually intake valve ports. My 2013 GMC Sierra 6.0 also has a catch can that gets filled up over time, so it's beneficial for port-injected engines as well.

These engines are DI.

😎

Not according to all the review/update videos I've seen on it. We'll see. I'll do an update video on it in the future.

I’ve applied to a vehicle here in the Mexican Caribbean which has a higher UV index than anywhere in the US. It has lasted almost 2 years ( finally showing signs of wear after 18 months ) I have used Dlux, Gtechniq C4 and Qyeon Q2 Trim. This lasts as longer if not longer. I was rather suprised and pleased@@OptimizedDIY

​@@OptimizedDIYcerakote can last minimum of 1 year, that jason douche dont know anything

Thanks for sharing, Robert!

@@renogunzddragon1900 Thought so. :)