Remove the gas cap, in order to allow free, unrestricted air, to flow into the gasoline storage tank, and the gasoline lines. This is done, so that when you start the engine, the engine can freely suck fuel through the gasoline line, which runs from the fuel tank, to the engine, and the fuel injectors. We want to achieve, getting the fuel to the engine, without the help of the fuel pump running, and pushing the fuel to the injectors. We want to remove the electrical fuse of the fuel pump, so that the pump stops pushing fuel from the gas tank to the engine, because we want to remove as much fuel out of the gasoline lines as possible, in order to replace the fuel filter, without having lots of gasoline dripping back from all the fuel hoses, once the fuel filter is disconnected. The engine uses fuel, to create combustion in the cylinders, resulting in RPM. This revolution of the pistons within the cylinders, creates an air sucking effect, called a vacuum, when the pistons move downward in the cylinders. These downward moving pistons, draw air inward, and create a sucking vacuum air pressure. This sucking air pressure, is enough suction, to allow the engine to pull all the fuel from the gasoline line, to the engine, without the help of the fuel pump pumping, and pushing fuel, once the fuse is removed. With the gas cap off, it allows gasoline to move freely out of the gas tank, without restriction. Have you ever tried using your mouth, to suck air, out of an empty 2 litre plastic Coca Cola bottle? It would be a lot easier if you could drill a ½ inch hole, in the end of the plastic container. Procedure: -remove gas cap. -put the parking brake on. -locate the fuse for the fuel pump, and have pliers ready, to pull it out, but don’t pull it out yet. -put the keys in the ignition, and start the engine, with the emergency brake on. -with the engine now running, go and pull out the fuse for the fuel pump. -the engine will keep running for a few seconds, until the engine’s vacuum has successfully sucked all of the remaining fuel out of the fuel lines, leading towards the engine. -place the fuse for the fuel pump, back into its fuse holder. -DISCONNECT the negative battery lead, on the car battery, for safety. Wrap paper towel around the end of the negative battery lead, so it does not touch any ground. -now you can prepare to remove the old fuel filter, under the truck. -If the plastic clip that holds the fuel filter in place clips properly over your new fuel filter, you will know that you have installed the filter facing the correct direction. You cannot reverse the direction of the fuel filter. The filter is directional, and must face the proper direction. There IS an in and an out, of the fuel filter. Once the new filter is installed: -reconnect the battery lead, and make sure it is clean of corrosion build up. - make sure to prime the fuel pump before starting the engine, by turning the key on and off, 3 or 4 times, and waiting 10 seconds between each time you turn the key on and off (don’t turn the key all the way to the far right position in the ignition, or you will turn on the engine, and you don’t want to do that yet!) -now that you have primed the fuel pump successfully, you can now completely turn the key, and start the engine.

This alternator installation video for 2005 year GMC Canyon and Chevy Colorado, will show you successful techniques to replace your alternator, and avoid mistakes that cost time. PLEASE READ ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM! Note: the socket wrench and socket I used, was a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench, with a regular depth, 1/2 inch drive socket, that was a 15 mm bolt head, for the 3 bolts that hold the alternator attached. PLEASE NOTE: IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU PURCHASE AN ALTERNATOR THAT IS OEM (ORIGINAL EQUIPTMENT MANUFACTURER), BECAUSE THE CORRECT ALTERNATOR, WHICH IS DESIGNED PRECISELY FOR YOUR VEHICLE, WILL RESULT IN BEST FUEL CONSUMPTION BY THE ENGINE, BECAUSE THE ALTERNATOR IS BELT DRIVEN OFF OF THE CRANKSHAFT FROM THE ENGINE'S MOTOR, SO WHEN THE MOTOR SPINS THE SERPENTINE BELT, AND TURNS THE SHAFT OF THE ALTERNATOR, THE DESIGN OF THE ALTERNATOR HAS RESISTANCE, THAT THE MOTOR HAS TO OVERCOME, THROUGH RPM MOTOR POWER, SO THIS OBVIOUSLY INVOLVES GASOLINE. SOME ALTERNATORS ARE COMMANDED BY THE PCM BRAIN. SOME ALTERNATORS DON'T VARY THEIR VOLTAGE VERY MUCH. DO YOURSDELF A FAVOR, AND BUY AN ALTERNATOR FROM YOUR ORIGINAL MANUFACTURER!!!! iT WILL CHARGE YOUR BATTERY MOST ACCURATELY, AND SUPPLY POWER TO YOUR CAR OR TRUCK'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND THE SENSORS, IN A PROPER WAY, AS YOU ARE DRIVING! THE BATTERY'S JOB IS ONLY TO START YOUR CAR BY TURNING OVER THE ENGINE! THE ALTERNATOR HAS A HUGE JOB, NOT JUST ONE...TO SUPPLY ENERGY TO YOUR MOTOR AND THE SPARK PLUGS, AND ALL THE SENSORS IN THE VEHICLE, AND PRODUCE POWER FOR THE AIR CONDITIONING, and navigation system, and PCM, and ECM, and car stereo, and the alarm system!

Here's the link to PART #2 of removing the condenser. However, it may be best to subscribe? kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4qakJpnjcesq7M I agree, this is really not a fantastic video documentary, I apologize. I do want to ensure everyone, that I successfully removed the condenser, and installed the new one, and it was not difficult. I do want to say, that it is necessary to have an assistant, to help you hold the items in place, while you manoeuvre the condenser and radiator! One person makes it look hard. Please, also READ, the DESCRIPTION comment above, for a long list of technical information!

I agree, this is really not a fantastic video documentary, I apologize. I do want to ensure everyone, that I successfully removed the condenser, and installed the new one, and it was not difficult. I do want to say, that it is necessary to have an assistant, to help you hold the items in place, while you manoeuvre the condenser and radiator! One person makes it look hard. Please, also READ, the DESCRIPTION comment above, for a long list of technical information!

Thanks very helpful

I wanted to comment on your video letting you know this is not likely user error. I had the exact same problem with 2 of these, only about 10 used before the right piston failed on each one and the same way. Thank you for posting your solution. The true fix, should it be debris on the pistons, would be to shield them, and I believe this is malicious design by the manufacture. Also, for the price, the CATERPILLAR 3 Ton jack is a way better option.

When you pull the grey clip back press the front black tab in to remove plug.

I bought Siberian Bushing. It's a Poly Bushing.

Thanks 👍

Thank you!!!!!!!!!! I would have broke the clip

Great video! Thank you, plus amazing tips in the description.

Cool

Hi Blair, good vid! Started to get a bit too ambitious for me so I'm going to have an auto body shop do the work. I purchased the 2007 keyholed right door handle, and lock cylinder, but obviously there are more parts involved. Could you please provide a list of the remaining parts needed? Thanks!! 2004 Canyon owner in Oklahoma :D

Was this Successful?

I am curious about how you got the AC hose on the left out of the way. I just replaced my condenser yesterday using this guide and we were fighting that pipe the entire time. I took my truck in to a shop to have the system charged and there was a manufacturers defect with the condenser so I have to redo this next week, I would like to not have to fight that pipe again.

Hi I have a question does the fan clutch needs to engage when using the ac because mine ac compresor keeps turning on and off

Outstanding video bud. you might have the only video giving any advice on 1st gen Colorado's rear windows. Thankyou

You must live in Chicago, That's allot of gunfire lol

2010 acura MDX spark plug installation and coil removal. Important tips on correct tools to use, and how to remove/disconnect the electrical connectors of the coils. I also replaced my PCV valve, and found it was heavily gunked up with oil sludge, unfortunately. I heavily recommend that you take extra care, and patience, to remove the PCV valve, carefully, and do not use the plastic area of the pcv valve, as a wedging point, where it bolts into the aluminum engine block. This plastic is very brittle, and it will snap off! ONLY grab the PCV valve with pliers, where it is directly in front of the hole, where it inserts into the engine block. Do not grab it by the offset wing of plastic, which holds the bolt for attachment to the engine block, because the offset wing will snap off! You will want 90 degree offset angle pliers, with a short handle length, to get into the area, to grab the PCV valve, and pull it out. I would recommend having a hot engine, to make it easier to remove the PCV valve. Do everything possible, to extract the PCV valve, in one piece, otherwise you will wish you never started the job!

Installing this new fuel tank pressure sensor did fix the P0446 code, and the check engine light never came back. I made sure my fuel level in the gas tank never dropped below 1/4 of a tank level during this 4 day drive cycle. After this drive cycle, the truck turned off the check engine light. Make sure to clean off the top of the fuel tank area thoroughly, by brushing it with a medium bristle scrub brush, then use your flexible vacuum hose to get into the area, and vacuum out the road rocks, and sand, and rust, and debris, sitting on top of the fuel tank. Then afterwards, you can start to undo the electrical connection to the fuel pressure sensor, and pull out the sensor. There might be so much sand and dirt sitting above the fuel pressure sensor and the electrical connection, that you may not even be able to see it, initially. Be careful not to push and scrape too hard while cleaning off the debris. The 3 causes of a P0446 code, are: - (1)the vent valve of the canister(not the purge valve) is malfunctioning, and needs replacement. - (2)the charcoal canister has way too much dust inside of it, thereby clogging off the flow of air, so the gas tank is not able to breathe properly. Either buy a brand new charcoal canister(expensive), or remove the old canister from the truck, and use compressed air line and spray nozzle from a compressor, to spray out the dust and remove it from the canister. - (3)the fuel pressure sensor, on top of the gas tank, is faulty, and needs to be replaced. For me personally, I actually had 2 problems at the same time! I had just purchased the truck from the previous owner for a cheap price. Initially, the truck would not allow me to put gasoline into the fuel neck, at the gas station, without the gasoline backing up the fuel neck until it spilled out of the truck, and onto the ground. A faulty fuel pressure sensor would never cause this to happen. What caused this to happen was that the charcoal canister was plugged up with too much dust, from driving off-road in dusty conditions. Because the canister was not allowing enough airflow to pass through the canister, it would not allow the air to exit quickly enough from the canister and through the vent valve, to the outside of the truck, in order to allow the gasoline coming into the gas tank, to push the air inside of the gas tank, out of the gas tank, at the same rate of speed at which the gasoline was coming into the fuel neck. If the gasoline is put into the fuel neck when you are filling up, and you have to put in a small amount of gas at a time, then wait, wait for it to drain slowly down the fuel filler neck and into the gas tank, then you can put in another small amount of gas into the fuel neck, and wait again for it to drain down into the gas tank, then you will know that the fuel system has a flow restriction (clog). The clog is usually not on the line between the fuel filler neck and the gas tank, it is usually on the line that is between the gas tank and the gasoline vapor cleaning tool (charcoal canister). The air that is displaced out of the gas tank, by the entry of the new fuel into the tank, is pushed along the line out of the tank to where it enters into the charcoal canister, where most of the gas vapors are filtered out of the air, before it exits the vehicle through the vent valve, and to the environment. For me, my vent valve solenoid was functioning correctly, but my charcoal canister had an air movement restriction, due to too much dust, and it was causing the gasoline I was trying to fill at the gas station, to spill down the side of my truck and onto the ground. Luckily I was able to remove the canister and spray it out, and re-install it, and successfully fill fuel up at the gas station. However, my P0446 code did not go away. I had another problem, apparently. I replaced my fuel pressure sensor, on top of the gas tank, and after driving 4 days with not allowing the fuel level in the gas tank to drop below 1/4 tank during these 4 days, the truck computer removed the P0446 code, and so the check engine light was removed from the dash board! Halelujah. I would also recommend watching the other videos on my channel showing the vent valve solenoid on a charcoal canister, for the Evaporative emissions system on GMC Canyon. Subscribing would be the easiest way to see all the videos, if you want.

Thanks for posting this. I own 2005 Chevy Colorado with the 3.5, I did my belt replacement back in 2014 and I had to have a my wife help me, it's due for another another replacement, this helps with tape. Thank you!!!! 2005 Chevy Colorado Z71 with over 200,000 miles, best truck I have ever owned if you keep up with maintenance. It drives better and shifts better than my 2019 GMC Canyon Elevation, and even my 2021 Silverado 1500. Thank you!!!!

When moving the throttle plate position, with your fingers, to change the angle of the plate, to clean it, it is important to slowly and gently change the angle, then also slowly allow the throttle plate to close. This is important because you don’t want to cause misalignment of the gear inside the throttle body, that holds the position of the throttle body plate. So, slowly and gently open and close the throttle body plate when you are cleaning the oil residue off of the surface, and the edges, of the throttle body plate.

I cleaned my 08 colorado throttlebody and reinstalled it and now when I turn my truck on the fly doesn't open when I press the gas pedal, any ideas? Do I need a new TB?

Thanks for the video. It helped quite a bit.

I don't understand how the video was useful it didn't show how to get it out all the way and mystery how you did getting the new one in. Just saying you put the video down and never finished. Even though you were all over the place complaining about needed an extra person I did understand your mumbling key comments and strangely I did understand. Thank you

Great video but camera never stop moving . A got drunk watching it.

After you have cleaned the oil off of the throttle body, and re-installed the throttle body, and turned on your engine, of course more volume of air will be able to pass the throttle body plate, and be used in the combustion process, than previously. So because more air is entering your engine now, than prior to cleaning the throttle body, the engine computer will now add more gasoline to the cylinders, to maintain the 14:1 air fuel mixture ratio, which is optimal for combustion of the air and fuel by the spark plugs (optimal explosion power, to move the pistons). What does more volume of air, and more gasoline mixture mean...it means a higher RPM for the engine. There will be more piston/spark plug explosion cycles in one minute, than there was previously. Revolution per minute. So why was the RPM of the engine too low before cleaning off the oil from the throttle body? There was not as much air entering the engine, past the throttle plate, as the engine's computer was anticipating(because things are not supposed to be dirty). SO the engine's computer sees that there is less air available for the combustion process, and responds by reducing the amount of gasoline it contributes to the combustion process, so that the air/fuel ratio is maintained at the desired rate of 14 parts of air, to 1 part of fuel. The engine's computer uses the Oxygen Sensor (O2 sensor) for oxygen level feedback (volume of air feedback). The oxygen sensor measures the exhaust of the explosion cycle from the pistons/spark plugs. When the engine's computer delivers less fuel in 1 minute, to the explosion cycle, and at the same time maintains the 14:1 air fuel ratio, it equates to less revolutions per minute of the pistons. The RPM of the engine is lower. When the throttle body is clean, like new, with no oil residue, the RPM is higher than when the throttle body is dirty.

The 3 causes of a P0446 code, are: - (1)the vent valve of the canister(not the purge valve) is malfunctioning, and needs replacement. - (2)the charcoal canister has way too much dust inside of it, thereby clogging off the flow of air, so the gas tank is not able to breathe properly. Either buy a brand new charcoal canister(expensive), or remove the old canister from the truck, and use compressed air line and spray nozzle from a compressor, to spray out the dust and remove it from the canister. - (3)the fuel pressure sensor, on top of the gas tank, is faulty, and needs to be replaced.

For the shackle bushing, I used a Moog brand. It is the Moog K200802 (leaf spring shackle bushing).

For the leaf spring, for MY truck, I ordered it through GM (General Motors), and the part number is 2598-6745. You should READ my DESCRIPTION, under my video, for more important information. MY truck is a 2005 GMC Canyon, extended cab, 5 cylinder, 3.5 litre, 2 wheel drive, Z85, SLE. 6 foot box length.

Whats de part number corrrect???

So glad I found your video! I struggled forever trying to release it. The trick was pushing only the top corner tab in and pull. Thank you

All good unless you have big hands and it's exactly like yours. Mine is set up different, take it to the shop, not worth the aggravation!!!

I just grind em off lol, the fun part is you hope the bar bushing bolts dont snap off and have to drill and tap the old ones like i did

My 06 Colorado looks like it was parked in an ocean underneath, your frame looks beautiful compared to mine 😂

Thank you very much !

Great Vid Kid....I woulda tried one of those c-clamp baljoint presses to tackle that ushing job, but I've been it that boat many many times. What a bugger of a job. Northern Ontario salt just eats those Colorado's and Canyons fast.lol

What happens if that clip breaks

GETTTTT ITTTT OOOUUUTTT!!!!!!!🤬😤😤😤

Now that was helpful. Showing how and what tool to use. Getting right to the solution is awesome.

Thanks buddy. That sure is easier than dropping tank or lifting bed.

At 3:00 there’s a girl walking by your house checking you out

First video to show releasing the solenoid with white buttons and also reflects the other connection to the solenoid. I hope I can complete my job with this info. Thnx

Wish I would have seen this before I did mine I broke the clip now searching for the right clip :(

Good video. Can you reach the bolt without going through the wheel well? Do every thing from the top.

What prompted you to change this? I’m getting very bad fuel economy and wonder if this is the issue.

Do you have to remove the rotor and hub to remove the lower ball joint?

Is this 2.9 or 3.7 and where was it located

2016 Crew cab .... jack up truck, put on jack stands ....you need to lower gas tank about 2 inches. Reach over driver side frame rail and work blindly (sense of feel only) to unplug and remove sensor.....rear tire does not need to be removed....i used a pick to unplug and remove at the same time, the sensor is friction fit, no screws or bolts.....real pain in the ass.....but it worked...

U never showed how did it come out was it easy did it come out in one peice or did it snap off and u had to use a screw or push it down in the tank?