2004 GMC Canyon lower ball joint installation.

Front lower ball joint replacement video for a 2004 GMC Canyon. I was able to leave the tie rod connected, but needed to remove the nuts and bolts of the upper ball joint.
A Torque wrench is suggested, and knowing the torque ratings for the various size bolts. Note: the size of the nut for the lower ball joint is 27mm (quite large), so I suggest buying before beginning...this size does not usually come with a standard socket set. Also prior to removing this large 27 mm nut from the threaded shaft, I recommend that you take a wire brush and remove all rust from the threads first, then spray a penetrating oil on both parts and let it sit for 45 minutes before trying to unbolt it. Also there is a video on KZbin showing you how and where to strike the steering knuckle steel, with a mallet, in order to allow the ball joint’s taper to loosen and disengage. Do not use the mallet on the steering knuckle until after you have removed of the large 27 mm nut... You do not want the threaded bolt to spin while you are taking off the nut.
For some reason the nuts on my vehicle were resistant to completely coming off of the threaded bolt, but they loosened off more than a quarter of an inch, before they got stuck on the last part of the threads, so I took my 4 inch grinder with a round rebar cutting blade attached to it, and cut off the old threads above the nut, so the nut fell off and I could get the rest of the threaded bolt out and continue with the replacement.
If you do not have a torque wrench, buy one, as this Large 27 mm castle nut must be torqued properly, when installing the new one.
Also, if you are removing the caliper mounting bracket, that size is 21mm, which may not be in a standard set.
Need a breaker bar with 17 inch long handle minimum, so 24 inches is good also. I would suggest you buy both, because the shorter handle will give more clearance in the wheel well, and the longer one will be very useful for rusted and seized bolts or nuts. Need a 1/2 inch drive to 3/8 inch drive adapter. Have a set of Deep sockets available for you.
Best to have 2 stands to support the left side and right side of the truck. Also a car jack with a long handle that can raise about 15 inches tall.
19 mm socket for the nuts that hold the rim on the vehicle. 104 ft/pounds.
17 mm socket for the 6 bolts holding the rotor to the hub. 88 ft/pounds.
13mm socket for the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. 29 ft/pounds.
7mm bolt for the bracket that holds the electrical line of the wheel speed sensor. Tighten by feel.
15 mm socket for the bolts for wheel hub assembly. 92 ft/pounds.
Nut for the lower ball joint is 27mm. 109 ft/pounds.
Caliper mounting bracket bolts are 21mm. 129 ft/pounds.
In the video it shows that I have removed the rotor and caliper, and this is because I was doing a full brake job and installing brand new rotors and pads. If you are just replacing the lower ball joint, then you do not need to remove the rotors. Do remove the caliper, but leave the brake fluid line connected.You would need to remove the cable wire connection, for the wheel speed sensor-ABS sensor, at the wheel well, and remove it from the clips.
If you watch the other videos on my channel it will be helpful for you. There is more information there about how to get off the wheel hub bearing, if you are also going to install new rotors.

[@tainchains]

Do you have to remove the rotor and hub to remove the lower ball joint?

[@blairj1409]

No, you do not have to remove the brake rotor or the wheel bearing/Hub assembly. It's best to remove the ABS electrical line from the clips so that the wire is free to move when you undo the old lower ball joint. Be careful not to put any stress on that ABS wire. You must figure out how to support the steering knuckle and hub assembly after you remove all the nuts holding the lower ball joint to the steering nuckle. upside down bucket? 24'' long Plastic zap straps? Bungee cords?

[@robcploft5398]

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