Glad you laughed. Gotta keep things light.

Thanks! Hope it’s useful.

Thank you Todd!

Thank you Lee. Not sure if Rix ships to the UK. Let me know if not.

@@HartfordWhaler Thanks, Paul

Appreciate that!!

Thank you Michael!

Thank you! I just held the windows in place and painted some of the glass. Then when I removed the glass, I painted to frames so it covered the paint marks. I’m sure there’s a better way to do it, but it worked!

The best scale, in my opinion!

@@HartfordWhaler Connecticut truly needs the Hartford Whalers back where they belong

100%. Well, I was when they were in Hartford!

You are welcome!

Thanks!

Might do. It’s only got decoration. Doesn’t actually throw the switch

Love the thing! Brilliant design.

A combination of what I find online and some CDs from www.larcproducts.com/railroadgraphicscd.html

Cost effective! Weirdly, I enjoy stuff like that.

I use ESU Loksound v5 for all my locos. Love them. I’ll check out your channel!

Glad it was helpful! You need to add a scrap yard!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Cheers!

Thank you. Opens up a lot more opportunity. Thanks for watching Ricky!

Thank you!

Definitely was a fun little project Bill. I like adding those small details to add to the fun.

Thank you! I ended up moving the sensor closer so it goes red while the first car is just outside the door. Allows me to uncouple it by hand.

@@HartfordWhaler Like you said before, good minds think alike. I was thinking of uncoupling outside the building also. Have a great day sir

Thanks!

Thank you. Only thing I’ll change is pulling the sensor forward so it activates the signal sooner (so I can uncouple the first car). Easy install. Hardest part was scratch building the signal light itself.

Thanks Manoj! And thanks for your help with this technology!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Very very close! Hartford, CT. Next town south.

Are you still local?

Plan is to uncouple the cars right at the door. Could do with a Kaydee magnet, but the cars don’t need to be all the way in the building to be uncoupled. I also plan to move the sensor closer to the door so it goes red when the first car is sticking out of the building. It was meant to be a safety so nobody hit the back wall. But now my practical thinking is coming to the same conclusion you did. Thanks for the comments and for watching.

@@HartfordWhaler That green / red signal looks fantastic, and is a great idea, along with your idea to uncouple the cars at the entrance of the building. And if you want to go down another rabbit hole - LOL - then think about converting your perfectly functional Kadee 148's to Prototype Couplers (formerly Sergeant Engineering) because they are 1/87 scale, and operate so well with no springs to force the coupler shank to return to the center of the coupler pocket, making (de)coupling on curves so much easier (-if you're going to manually uncouple your cars). Having said that, you'd have to convert all motive power / rolling stock, unless you just want to use them between MU'd engines with a Kadee 148 at the front of the lead engine, and the rear of the 2nd engine to couple with Kadee equipped rolling stock. FYI: I sold my engines that I converted to Sergeant Engineering couplers a few years ago, but now that I am starting over again, and "going small" - like you and a few other influential modelers are doing - I only plan to purchase about six DCC equipped engines. Therefore, the lure of those Prototype Couplers is very strong, and I thought I'd mention them to you because you are doing your best to emulate prototypical operations. prototypecouplers.com/FAQCompatibility.html

Thank you!

Thought of that. What I may do is move the sensor forward so the light goes red earlier - without having to push both cars in so far. That way I can uncouple with the first car exposed from the building. The inside car can stay connected to the first car. It makes a nice challenge for operations. To get the inside car, you have to pull both out. I may put a manual Kaydee magnet right at the building entrance. Thanks for the ideas and for watching!

Yeah kind of a mess. It was actually Vallejo powder pigment rather than Testors. Still a mess.

@@HartfordWhaler there’s probably not really a clean way to do that. But getting dirty is part of the hobby.

Thank you! Appreciate you watching!