Installing a Tortoise Switch Machine, Signals, and Panel Lights on the HO Shelf Layout

[@thehouseofhorsepowerautobo4506]

Great explanation! Now I understand how those switches work. Just in time for the start of my shelf layout!

[@HartfordWhaler]

Thank you. Keep me posted on your shelf layout!

[@thehouseofhorsepowerautobo4506]

@HartfordWhaler will do!

[@jaybird111207]

Very informative video Paul thank you for sharing. I've installed and un-installed tortoise switches with and with out LEDs / signals not seriously complicated, however if you're not paying attention to what you're doing it could be a hassle 🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️😅 The double sided tape is a big help to lining up the switch machine like you explained and then once it's set to where you want it screw it in. For me it's just planning where I want my switches to be and even sometimes I find myself moving things around 🤷‍♂️😅 Par for the course I suppose 🤷‍♂️ Anyways great video appreciate you sharing how you do it and I believe beginners in the hobby will find this useful in one way or another. Have a good day and stay safe. Happy modeling!! - Jason

[@HartfordWhaler]

Thanks. Definitely need the 2 sided tape to test fit things. They are not simple to wire. At least for most. A bit of trial and error. But they work great once you figure it out. Thanks for watching!

[@BungHoleCamper]

Great video Paul - very descriptive. Thanks for sharing!

[@HartfordWhaler]

You bet. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelsmodelrailroading7665]

A good "how-to" video. Tortoise switch machines are pretty much fool proof. There are a lot of videos on YT detailing their installation, if you search, should you want further info. Several points that I might add: 1) Once you've finalized the location of the Tortoise, a couple of strips of tape on either side of the actuator wire (parallel to the ties) will narrow the hole under the points and reduce the amount of ballast leaking through the hole. 2) The actuator wire is hardened spring wire, and requires hardened jaw wire cutters to cut the excess protruding above the ties. Trying to use regular rail nippers will leave a divot in the cutting edge of the nippers. So be careful about that. 3) One point you don't address is juicing your frogs. This might be addressed using the second set of single-pole contacts on the Tortoise. Juiced frogs prevent stalling on short wheelbase locos.

[@HartfordWhaler]

Excellent points Michael. Thank you for leaving them in the comments! I did have to use hardened nippers to cut the throw rod. Definitely don’t want to use rail cutters. Great idea with the tape to keep ballast from dropping through. In my situation, I glued shavings from homasote board to the edges of the opening. Same effect. You definitely can juice the frogs, but I solder power feeds to all my turnout rails and all my decoders have keep-alive capacitors, so fortunately I don’t need to wire the frogs. Great tip for most however. Thanks again!

[@deeprunrailroad_Mike]

The pop rivet is a great idea.

[@HartfordWhaler]

Thanks. Forgot where I saw it.

[@SouthBrooklynRR]

Brilliant, just Brilliant!!!

[@HartfordWhaler]

Thank you!

[@darcyj19]

Nice video. Question about the stub of the switching wire sticking up through the hole in the tie. It looks to be taller than the railhead. Will all your rolling stock get past it or will you be trimming it down? (I had exactly that problem a few times.)

[@HartfordWhaler]

Haven’t cut it yet.

[@michaelsmodelrailroading7665]

​@HartfordWhaler Don't use your red-handled Xuron rail nippers. You'll need cutters with hardened jaws to cut the spring or music wire.

[@darcyj19]

@@michaelsmodelrailroading7665 Dremel with cutting wheel

[@solimar1554]

What is the power supply for the Tortoise? Do you power by the DCC bus or a separate supply? Looks like you use the same switch but separate connections to power the Tortoise motor and then separately, the LEDs. I thought the Tortoise inherently lowered the voltage without a resistor. Could you flesh out the wiring for me. Thanks. Paul Nice video.

[@HartfordWhaler]

I power the tortoise and LEDs off one 12v dc bus. Not the DCC power bus. I put resistors on all the LEDs. Not sure if tortoise has them. I actually had to put extra resistors on the panel LEDs because they were too bright. I can take a shot at drawing the wiring diagram. Shoot me a note at [e-mail]