I have a case manual and it refers to a tow valve on the pump that could be in the wrong position causing power failure to the wheel. I can’t find it on either of my pumps, any suggestions

I know this was posted years ago but do you have any pictures of the instrument panel wiring?

Thank you for posting this.

Thank you for posting this. Very helpful.

Can you link or give us specs for the new belts? Thanks man.

whats the largest rims and tires that can fit on here

So how was this repaired. ?

I just bought one of these rascals.mine has no hydraulic oil drain plug.have you ever heard of that?

Morning! good video, its hard to find anything on these pumps, I have this in a small New Holland L250 skid steer, my pups work but there very noisy, and it seems to get worst the more you work it, its a confusing issue cause im not sure if its normal?, when yours was working did you find it very noisy, like squeely?, also would you know what model these units are?, thanks for your time.

Hello I wondering how you tension the hydraulic balves

I have an Onan engine on my 1816, and the right pump needs a smaller belt than the left, or it squeals.

Great info. Thanks!

Brian, I’m picking up same skid steer, original skinny tires….where can you get same or bigger

If had room for electric clutch it would fix problem

Thanks for these great videos. I just purchased one of these.

Hello, Mr. Case, there are 40 xt. It's a hope to go to Swan. It's very hopeful that you can help me. Thank you in another country. Thank you

So facing the back of the engine right pump drive is that supposed to run all the time?

Sorry 3/4 not 1”

This is what I found after some trouble converting Brian’s terminology “carriage bushing” into Jeremywell UCFL205-16 Pillow Block Bearing 1 inch Bore, 2 Bolt Flange Mounted, Solid Base (4 PCS) on Amazon hope it helps. Thanks Brian for the great videos!!!

I don't suppose that you have a link or a part number for those seal kits?

Dude you’ve taught me so much about my case 1816 b. I’m having issues with mine is there a way to contact you

Hey Brian I could really use some help with my 1816 steering. Can we possible chat over email or phone?

Hey I just bought a 1816b and the previous owner said that these will need replacing I'm glad someone else has done it and documented it already - Thanks!

Shhh talk real soft so you don't interrupt your train of thought! LOL

Beautiful job Sir! I have a Case 1845 that I've done the same thing to. Lots of work but very rewarding.

A lot of famers that have these will just dump regular dirty engine drain oil into the hydraulics. PS, is some one sleeping near by? you sure are talking soft, lol

Don't quit videos I'm redoing a 1816c everything helps thanks Jim

Balls🎾

Oh my God!

Hello...how big is the hydraulic pump?

Great tip! Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!

man this is some weird engineering. the gehl/hesston uses one belt around all 3 pulleys. the main gearotor is driven off the crank directly.

Great idea about the solar trickle charger.

Hey Brian, I've already finished my Honda GX690 conversion, how are you doing?

Brian, Is there a relief valve to open to move the machine without the engine running?

Brian, can you pull the front seal out of this pump without taking the shaft out? Mine leaks a bit and I'm scared to tale it clear down. Thanks

I think an 1816 will be lucky to pick up 600 lbs being a contractor are you sure it will work for your needs? I have a case 1818 I just bought and have some issues with the lifting capabilities it's for home use I have oak logs to move around and is straining to lift logs

Did you finish your project? I have the same machine, but with a Kohler engine, curious if you ever solved lack of power problem with drive pumps?

I've also replaced all of the rod ends and shaft rod bearing ends for tight lever action trying to eliminate the creep you get with worn joints. Its about 99.5% gone now. Just WISH those drive pump motors would self center like the lift and tilt bucket control box does. Everything is 3/8RH rod ends so you can't exactly fine tune it without swapping to a 3/8 LH and RH threaded system. Easy enough. But for me a 1/2 rotation on the rod end is creep forward or creep backwards. Thats where she is for me. I have 1/4" pins in my drive pumps which i see let the rod ends swivel around a bit. I think i am going to have to put a bolt in there and tighten it up to eliminate that swivelability it has. being if that 1/4" hold has a tich of play and the holes going through the end piece had a tich of play thats alot of play in this hydraulic unit where it don't self center and the center point seems to be hyper critical. Well that was a handful of words.

Was this the last Video? Is there one of this machine done and driving around the yard?

As I just did the same thing recently with those same bearings to all four ends. I believe i cut the top fat shaft off by 1/2" and the bottom fat shaft was cut off 1/8" away from the rod arm. Everyone and their mother forgets the key element here in the creep situation. Yep it is from the sloppy and slightly worn out bushings and pin holes. But why? I will let you all in on a secret. Those drive pumps do NOT self center into neutral position which sucks butt for everyone trying to figure this out. That is the why am i having creep issues answer to all questions, because the drive pumps don't self adjust back to center/neutral. You automatically thing they do because that would make total sense but they don't. The bucket hand controls self center back to center/neutral. You never hear of any complaints in that department. So Yes sloppy controls give you creep because you think your in neutral but your really creeping 5% lets say so you tap the arm forward now your creeping 5% forward while the other side is possibly doing the opposite. Hang on boys we have our bucking bronco.

U ever need any machine work done let me know

On your pump video did the cleaning of the needle bypass valve fix the issue? Have a similar problem

how do you fixed the problem with the originial gx exhaust system?

To Discount Wheelies Post your email and I can send you a pic. The brackets hold the centering spring. The brackets are slotted and are intended to be adjusted. As Brian has stated, eliminating the slop is critical to to overall operation.

To James Craft Did you install an electric clutch ? How does it work now ? Any videos or pics on that modification? Moving those pumps in and out I believe is a bad design. The 4 hoses connecting to those pumps are always flexing probably contributing to chronic hydraulic line leaks. An electric clutch is a great solution.

Brian. Maybe you can answer my question. The hydraulic hoses on top of the bucket, the ones that are about 16" long. Do you know what size they are. like 1/4" maybe 3/8 or 1/2". I think there are 4 maybe 3 of them. The ones that go to the bucket tilt

Any additional modifications or updates ?

Question what side is the left side of the 1816 case to order the drive shaft

Thanks for posting these videos, Brian! They have helped me with my 1816B. I appreciate the time you've taken to post them on KZbin!