Hello, the measurements are reduced because the fabric is stretchy. I used 80% reduction in width and 90% in length. So the used hip circumference was 75 cm instead of 94 (0:04).

Another question: which type of wire shape should you recommend for this pattern? (e.g. Plunge, demi, balcony, high-side demi, full-cup...)

@@ChiaraPasqui Hello! When I was making that video I didn't have much experience in bra pattern drafting. What I don't like about Shin's method is the fact she is giving some exact points positions and angles, according to standard measurements in the size chart, but not always best for specific body measurements. This didn't work for me and I had to try different options for myself, sometimes changing and adjusting the given point values or angles. I don't remember exactly, but this might have been one of the changes done. Not having much experience in bra drafting I didn't have much knowledge about types of wires. Back then I thought I was using a standard one, but it was very low at the sternum. The Shin's method is designed rather for standard/full cup wires. A year ago I made another video where I combined two methods ("Bare Essentials: Bras: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design" by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks for the band and "Patternmaking for Underwear Design" by Kristina Shin for the cup). I think this other video is much better and the combined construction also works great. Here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWLFn6h3q82jerM

Chest height refers to space between the chest and the underbust at the center front. To measure it, tie one string or tape at the underbust and the second at the chest (over the bust, above breast tissue). The chest height is the measurement between the two stings in the center front.

Thank you, I'm glad it was useful for you.

Dziękuję, fajnie, że się sprawdza.

Hi, do you mean at 10:26? First I chose the arc tool, then I picked the center point of my arc (here it was point B21 at the bottom of center back). Then you can either manually click the ending and starting points of the arc and adjust its size or double click to open the formula window. In this video I did it manually and my first point of arc was too far (angle was too big), that's why it didn't intersect the line B2-B4 and I had to correct it.

What do you mean? If you don't know pattern drafting at all you must use some sources because there are specific guidelines and formulas in the process. These go into Valentina to get the lines or curves as a matter of fact exp. drawing panties pattern waist line formula is (waist/4) *0.9 ---> divided by four because you draw a quarter of the piece only ; multiplied by o.9 because the fabric will be stretch for panties and you need to account for that. Even for different stretch you will have slightly different value. You need resources and unfortunately it is not that you can sit at the computer and draft clothes without any knowledge. I don't say that it is very complicated, it is not, but a lot goes to it ...really a lot...

Thank you 🙂

In the Armstrong's method there's no formula for the dart intake, it's 1,5 inches or 1 inch for junior/petite sizes. I guess it's also because the Armstrong's block is made for a standard figure with 10'' difference between bust and waist (B cup).

Of course, you can use any kind of skirt measurement you wish and you can also take the ready "known" measurements from Tape. This 55 cm is just an example. I just prefer to have the body measurements in one place and all the others pattern measurements (like the skirt length) in increments. This way I can easily change them any time, independently from body measurements. In this case I would "waist to knee measurement" as a formula for "skirt length".

🤗@@VeNove

Yes, it will be coming as well.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6XJhH2pZ8eCb68

I will, just need a bit more time to edit all my videos before publishing.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6XJhH2pZ8eCb68

When selecting the curve hold the Shift button. You can also reverse it later in the Details mode, just click your pattern to open the Workpiece tool, then from the list of object select the curve, go to its options and reverse it.

Dzień dobry. W Valentinie najczęściej robię to na dwa sposoby. Albo po prostu mnożę zaznaczany obwód talii czy bioder o sprawdzoną wartość rozciągliwości dzianiny - np. jeśli rozciąga się o 15%, to o 15% zmniejszam odcinki A-A3 (talia) i A1-A4 (biodra). Mnożę długość odcinka przez 0.85, więc (@WaistGirth/4)*0,85. Albo drugim sposobem - zaznaczam wartość rozciągliwości bezpośrednio w Increments, wtedy równanie będzie wygladać np. tak: (@WaistGirth/4)*#Increment_1, gdzie #Increment_1 to właśnie 0,85. Jest to o tyle lepsze, że jeśli będę miała materiał o innej rozciągliwości, zmieniam tylko tę jedną wartość w Increments i nie muszę przerabiać innych wzorów na rysunku.

@@VeNove dziękuje, za tak szybką i szczegółową odpowiedź. Mam nadzieję, że ogarnę. Dopiero zaczynam przygodę z Valentina, a opcja zmniejszania procentowego jest świetlna w przypadku majtek.

@@hannawawrzyniak jakby coś jeszcze, to postaram się pomóc

Hi, what do you mean by source code?

@VeNove I mean can you do the bra and skirt pattern for me

@@masivechino9671 You can send me and email to venove.fashion(at)gmail.com so we can talk about details.

When drafting a pattern (for woven fabrics) you always need to add some movement ease to the body measurements. In this drafting method it’s recommended to add 0,5-1 cm to the waist (that’s the amount added to the basic block, so amount added to whole circumference is twice as much). Note that this is a basic skirt block, so it’s usually modified accordingly to the design. After the fitting the waist can be adjusted by making the dirts bigger or smaller and usually also a belt would be added.

A new, much better video about drafting a skirt pattern is coming soon - slower and with all the needed instructions 🙂

@@VeNove oh, perfect!!! I ma looking forward to watching it!!!

You can adjust the playback speed of all videos on KZbin.

@@VeNoveYou mean this according to armstrong method ? It is not easier. Too many measurements as always in this method. The video here is simple but unfortunately for some reason I had to stop since point line intersection doesn't work for me in Valentina..does not create point A8 at all even though it seems that I follow your instructions - unless you pressed something which does not show. How points A7 and A8 were created? <---solved this different way now - Wow..Next problem - some length of lines are not showing so I am not able to input the dart width point formula. Please tell me is it normal for this program - I don't wanna bother for no reason with it. How can I even have so many problems following your instructions. I guess, if the program was good wouldn't be free..would it?

Whoever is interested ...I downloaded Seamly and done this skirt in no time without problems.

Thank you 😊 This really depends on the fabric. I usually take a small piece of fabric (10 cm) and stretch it over a ruler to see how much it stretches. Or I take the fabric and stretch it over my body (tights for leggings) to see how much it stretches and is still not transparent. For the leggings the reduction can be significant, for example I take 80% of the original measurements if the fabric is Lycra/spandex. With cotton jersey the reduction is very small, only 95-98% of the original measurements.

@@VeNove Thank you!!

Nie da się chyba skopiować tylko części krzywej, bo po jej zaznaczeniu kopiuje się cała. Ale można ją zaznaczyć z tymi nowymi punktami (na IOS przyciskając cmd, na Windows pewnie ctrl) i wtedy wszystko się skopiuje razem (Operations-Move objects).

Thank you!

W Valentinie nie było możliwości powiększenia okienka, w które wpisuje się wielkości odcinków i działania do wykonania. Dlatego po każdym kroku jest dodany powiększony zrzut z ekranu (np. 0:53), żeby było lepiej widać poszczególne działania. A dodatkowo na dole ekranu pojawia się opis punktów i tego, co robię.

Thank you :-)

Hello Vanderléia! I haven't made a test version for this basic bra but I made one T-cup bra (kzbin.info/www/bejne/jamwlH5njqiCp5I) and it fits very well. For drafting a T-cup bra I used the same basic bra pattern. Of course, there are always some small fitting modifications needed, but the shape of the bra was very nice and the fit was close to perfect. I would make only small changes, mainly to the cradle. I would make it a bit smaller it the centre, so that the cups are a bit closer. I would also move point B10 a bit up and adjust the shape of the lower part of the cradle. I made the test version out of an old T-shirt so of course it's not the same fabric as lace or stretchy powernet.

Hello. I’m using 0.7 version, but maybe you added your objects not to one but to several groups of visibility and that’s why you still see them?

@@VeNove It was a silly mistake on my part. It works now.

@@geethaparasuram6338 I'm glad it works now. Enjoy the pattern making :-)

Thank you. Take a look at this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/anLOYoWwbbanbZo - the rotation tool is in use all the time :-)

@@VeNove Thanks. Will have a look.

@@VeNove Is it possible to use mirror/flip tool on curved pieces. I wanted to flip an inner lower cup to make an outer lower cup. My logic was flipping will make the seam lines match.

@@geethaparasuram6338 Yes, you can flip any object. Go to Operations and pick Flipping objects by line or Flipping objects by axis. I'm not sure if I understand the idea of flipping an inner lower cup to make an outer cup, do you mean splitting this lower cup in two as in the video? In the video they are made by rotating the same object so the seam lines match.

@@VeNove the question of flipping was for trying a shortcut for the pattern I am working on. Not the one on the video.

Dziękuję za komentarz. Polecam Valentinę. Początkiem dla obu była właśnie Valentina, potem się rozdzieliły na Valentine i Seamly. Poczytaj sobie komentarze pod tym filmikiem kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z162gWVup997jJo , Roman, twórca Valentiny wyjaśnia całą sytuację.

@@VeNove a możesz mi powiedzieć , jak otworzyć plik z seamly 2d w valentinie , ja nie mogę , a napisałeś że tobie się udało :)

@@persefonaeasystyle4748 Moze to zalezy od uzywanej wersji? Dawno nie probowalam, ale jak chcesz mozesz mi podeslac plik na venove.fashion(at)gmail.com razem z plikiem z wymiarami, to zobacze u siebie.

Thank you very much for your comment, I'm glad you liked it.

Dziękuję za komentarz. Na początku filmiku rysunek jest w oddaleniu, żeby było widać całość. Dlatego dodałam opisy tego, co robię i pokazuję dokładnie narzędzia, których używam. W dalszych częściach widać z bliska poszczególne elementy i etapy pracy. Można też zatrzymać filmik i przybliżyć obraz. Możesz napisać, które fragmenty są niejasne?

Hi An-Mari! First the measurements that describe the shape of the bust (bra cup): Bust height - from the underbust line to the bust point (a curve from underbust to the nipple), Inner bust arc - the arc from the bust point to the centre front, Outer bust arc - the arc from the bust point to the outer side of the bust. Then I used increments for drafting this bra: #HookEye - depending of the hook eye you will be using, #Wingdrop - which is related to the wire opening, the hemline should go possibly parallel, #WireFront, #WireSide and #WireBottom - I took the measurements from the wire I used, #UBElastic - depending of the width of the elastic you will be using.

Hi Marion, which lines you mean?

@@VeNove I believe she is taking about the existing side curves that you are relocating. Thanks for this video. Was helpful.!!

@@veenajay482 Thank you for this explanation. And the original curves come from the basic block, maybe I will make a video of how it was drafted as well. I’m glad it was helpful to you 😊

@@VeNove Ido know how to create patterns, but i have a few other questions like, How do you activate the groups function. I dont see that fuction when i rightclick on a line. and how do you manage the seam allowance around a dart. The whole truedart function is a bit of a mistry to me.

@@veenajay482 About group functions - I am activating it with right click on Windows or touch with both fingers on Apple touchpad. This way I can see the options of the line, curve or point. It should work this way. I don't use the truedart function in Valentina. I think it may work well only when a dart is situated on a straight line, for example it's a simple waist dart. Then we can use it as in this video: facebook.com/watch/?v=572755669569589 But when a dart is on a curve or it goes from the top of the neckline, I think it would not work well, because we always need to select base line points. I am making truedarts on my patterns in a similar way as on paper - first I connect the dart arms points and set a midpoint between them. I connect the dart apex with this new point with a line and on the same line using Point at distance among line I draw true dart point which is maybe 0,7-1 cm further than the midpoint between dart legs. I print this small part of the pattern to see if everything is correct and the dart is perfect after closure. Then if necessary I make manually some adjustments to the digital pattern.