How to draft a bra pattern in Valentina/Seamly2D

#Valentina #PatternDrafting #Tutorial #Bra
Here you will find my newest bra pattern making video: • Underwired bra draft i...
In this video I draft a basic underwired bra pattern using Kristina Shin's method and adjusting it to drawing in Valentina or Seamly2D. I also show how I traced the bra wire in Valentina.
You can download my file with the measurements to use in Valentina (in .vit format), I think this can be helpful when you start drafting your own pattern: www.dropbox.co...
Edit: 14:41 The distance between B9 and B16 (the wing) should be shorter, there is an error in the formula. The right formula for point B16 is (@UnderBustGirth-(5+0,15*@UnderBustGirth))/2
00:10 Pattern pieces
00:20 Lower cup pattern
06:16 Wire and band
06:35 Wire tracing
22:04 Upper cup pattern
26:08 Centre cradle
27:31 Creating details
31:55 Grainlines
34:34 Layouts
venove.fi
venove.design
IG: venove.fashion
Book: Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin, PhD
IG: venove.fashion
You can download Valentina here: smart-pattern....

[@ChiaraPasqui]

Hello, thank you for your video! It made me understand a lot of things about the construction of this pattern and about this software 🙏❤️ I wanted to ask you something: I have seen you have positioned B14 at 1.3 cm from the "opened" wire, and then based on this point, you have obtained B15 (which should be equal to point B on the referenced Shin's book, page 51). However from the book I see here point B was placed at half of the sternum+wire width+wire opening+2.5 cm (it says here "for sewing"). Could you explain why the difference 1.3 cm vs. 2.5 cm indicated on the book? Is this difference just a preference for sewing or is it something more relevant? Thanks a lot for your content ✨🥰

[@ChiaraPasqui]

Another question: which type of wire shape should you recommend for this pattern? (e.g. Plunge, demi, balcony, high-side demi, full-cup...)

[@VeNove]

@@ChiaraPasqui Hello! When I was making that video I didn't have much experience in bra pattern drafting. What I don't like about Shin's method is the fact she is giving some exact points positions and angles, according to standard measurements in the size chart, but not always best for specific body measurements. This didn't work for me and I had to try different options for myself, sometimes changing and adjusting the given point values or angles. I don't remember exactly, but this might have been one of the changes done. Not having much experience in bra drafting I didn't have much knowledge about types of wires. Back then I thought I was using a standard one, but it was very low at the sternum. The Shin's method is designed rather for standard/full cup wires. A year ago I made another video where I combined two methods ("Bare Essentials: Bras: Construction and Pattern Design for Lingerie Design" by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks for the band and "Patternmaking for Underwear Design" by Kristina Shin for the cup). I think this other video is much better and the combined construction also works great. Here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWLFn6h3q82jerM

[@libiaesmeraldamartinez1792]

I don't understand mis, missing measurement.

[@an-maristrydom2631]

Thank you for the video, could you please explain the measurements to me, I know what the underbust girth is but the rest I’m not too sure of.

[@VeNove]

Hi An-Mari! First the measurements that describe the shape of the bust (bra cup): Bust height - from the underbust line to the bust point (a curve from underbust to the nipple), Inner bust arc - the arc from the bust point to the centre front, Outer bust arc - the arc from the bust point to the outer side of the bust. Then I used increments for drafting this bra: #HookEye - depending of the hook eye you will be using, #Wingdrop - which is related to the wire opening, the hemline should go possibly parallel, #WireFront, #WireSide and #WireBottom - I took the measurements from the wire I used, #UBElastic - depending of the width of the elastic you will be using.

[@vandisantos1482]

Hello! Thank you for your video. Could you please tell me If the Bra that you Pattern with the technique of the Dr Kristina Shin fitted in a good way um your body ? Thank you só much. I am Vanderléia from Brazil

[@VeNove]

Hello Vanderléia! I haven't made a test version for this basic bra but I made one T-cup bra (kzbin.info/www/bejne/jamwlH5njqiCp5I) and it fits very well. For drafting a T-cup bra I used the same basic bra pattern. Of course, there are always some small fitting modifications needed, but the shape of the bra was very nice and the fit was close to perfect. I would make only small changes, mainly to the cradle. I would make it a bit smaller it the centre, so that the cups are a bit closer. I would also move point B10 a bit up and adjust the shape of the lower part of the cradle. I made the test version out of an old T-shirt so of course it's not the same fabric as lace or stretchy powernet.

[@tholexuan7266]

Thank you for the video. Great

[@VeNove]

Thank you!

[@Mubashir987]

Vji