Yes and if I’m the City Inspector. Please show me your Deputy Inspection reports then give me your job Card so I can put my Precious signature on it. And you and I will work hard to keep your project on Schedule. And I have been known to give a break to good Superintendents and even come back by. Lol.

Kind sir, if you have rust on the bar prior to concrete placement you are in good shape. What you want to look for is scale and degradation of the nominal thickness of the Rebar. Also, mud, debris or oil is not allowed on Rebar. Typically during the course of a job the Rebar will not degrade or have enough rust to cause alarm. After a heavy rain a newly delivered load of steel will have light rust as there is no coating applied.

Repaint it with the green exopy paint

Kind sir, the oil in the tie wire is of no concern. Check the specs under concrete and ensure that they are using what has been specified. Plans and specs will be your back up!

Kind sir, there is no structural integrity or advantage in tie wire. The amount of the tie wire used in structural concretes design is to keep the Rebar in place at the spacing and coverage specified during concrete placement. Rule of thumb double your wire on heavy mats or columns and high traffic areas. Single ties are sufficient for flatwork such as slab, mesh and light foot traffic. Gauge 15 for bridges and 16.5 for medium to light work.

@@steeltown416 Many thanks for this comment. Thought so.

@@steeltown416 This is what I have thought for very many years now. Really strange that no one in the local concrete industry can confirm this. Thanks so much, cheers.

@@evanpenny348 No worries!! Greetings from California! What also is a good indicator that Tie Wire holds no Structural integrity is that you will not find it mentioned in any of the Structural details called out in the plans. Which means it's not taken into consideration when the engineer makes his calculations. It's just a industry standard tool. Means and method for the contractor to secure Rebar in place. Similar to precast concrete spacers that hold up the Rebar, just a means to hold the bar in place. Cheers 🍻, From a Ironworker on the other side of the world.

Doesn’t cement have silica dust in it? Which means breathing that dust into your lungs will cause lung cancer in the long run?

I hate you dude been working in the shit for 9 years and still get burns

How is it going now man do you enjoy it?

This mean do you got a job as site quality manager? So you have to test like me the quality of concrete the right position of rod bars according the structural drawings, the respect of minimum thk of concrete to covering the rod bars against corrosion and many other thing according the quality plan part of the Quality Assurance certification. Is hard job and you must be so carismatic and professional under the pressure of the company and site boss who usually think that your job is just to lose time and is not important. Big mistake, when I control I always find mistakes on site work, the common are like these: wrong concrete order by the site chief; missing rod bars; wrong size of concrete aggregates respect the specification; missing certificate of the structural materials; concrete too fluid tested by cone; beam size wrong; no good results of concrete tests after 7 days and 28 days; wrong size of rods bars and still many others. So my job is very very hard I wish you good luck and remember on site no compromise never with the company chief, must be clear for him that you Will check everyparts accordo the % of random no discount so you can get your respect.

I've been in concrete for 15 years went to school for it most off this really only applies to big commercial jobs where the specs of the concrete must meet certain requirements. If you are wanting to build a patio or anything that's not a house foundation or something load-bearing it doesn't really matter. Patios and sidewalk don't necessarily need rebar but i always use it. Fiber mesh in the mix is usually enough. You always want control joins it gives the concrete a place to crack (it always will crack) and it hides them. If the mud shows up dry or stiff and u don't live in Alaska or Arizona (somewhere with extreme temps) add some water. The 1gal/yd3 is a good guide. Little bits at a time so u don't add too much, no way to fix that. If it is hot when u pour wet the ground first. Super dry ground will suck the moisture out of the concrete and make it set premature and under-strength, we call it a flash or snap. For driveways always use rebar or wire mesh. 4' × 8' wire fence panels from home depot or whatever work great or it comes in 150' rolls from any construction supply place. When finishing u want to seal the concrete. Use a mag float to smooth highs and lows and fill the tiny holes in the surface. Don't over work the mud u don't have to fill every hole. Look at some concrete in ur area u'll see tiny holes those allow it to absorb water over time and gain strength. If u pour on a hot day its a good idea to use a cure spray when finished or it can crack all over the surface. If it's not 90° out u can skip the cure but the next day soak it with a hose or sprinkler like all day. Oh also for basic residential concrete I usually go for 4500 psi mix that's usually enough but if ur gonna park a tractor or something heavy on it use the highest bag mix they have and pour it 6" thick. And #4 bar on a 2' grid. Hope that helps sry its so long winded.