Or just by Bambu Filament, price is excellent in the UK compared to others and they have a huge range of types and colours for next day delivery. Plus all the profiles are already in OracSlicer and RFID is great as I just want to print as the Printer is a tool that I use for other projects and hobbies.

I have a question: how does you solder the power jack?

What wire is stepper cable???

Nice work! But how much roughly will it cost to print these with a 3D printing service?

Thanks, can you please share the model for the Hygrometer holder ?

The pre-print macro is so damn quick.

@Joshmurrah can I get the config and link to direct z drive mod ?

The voltage limitation of the stepstick is not the capacitors, it's the mosfets. There are no capacitors on the stepstick for the motor voltage, that is the capacitor underneath it on the motherboard, which will not be used anymore when you provide the motor power from the top. Additionally, you can easily blow up the TMC driver when wired as descried, you MUST make sure the logic power (3.3/5V) and motor power arrive roughly at the same time. Currently there are external TMC5160 drivers, which would be the way to go. The stepper alignment can easily be seen from the diag pins on the short side of the stepper

I’m having an issue printing Polymaker PLA pro on my x1c . It gets through the first layer or two then just peels off . I’m using a textured bed . Can anyone help ?

I got one of the open board models and have had no problems with it. I connect it to a spare lawn tractor battery. It does a real good job.

Josh, if I read your video correctly, the balancing wires are Y,B, W,G. Is that correct?

start this way, now use them upside down lol...with rollers on "lid"

I can imagine that scary things happened the way you had them routed. I was soldering a connection and was not watching the length of my solder and it touched an adjacent cell and vaporized in a flash. I spot welded some short tabs on my four cell units and solder my balance leads to these. That is better than soldering them to that big tin square that connects each four cell unit together.

I looked at your pack. You have it yellow, blue + side and white green - side. Is that correct? I will move them to that configuration in the morning. It is to dark now to do outside stuff. Will let you know if that works.

I need some help. I must have screwed up somewhere, probably on the balance leads. My batteries have 3.8 volts and 19.06 on the pack. I have the balance leads - white, yellow on the + side and blue, green on the - side, in order, here. It will run my drill fine but will not charge. All I get is a short white light followed by a red that goes out after a second. What do you think?

can you provide a link for the boards?

my wallet know that i can't make it😅

Having a metal pail with a couple of inches of sand and some tongs or spade nearby to quickly handle a wildfire battery pack is also a good idea.

I have been disassembling some battery packs and some time I hear what sounds like air being released from the battery does anyone know what is happening

"Not too bad..." Yeah ! Right !

Hi Josh, my name is Martin, this is a great video but i can't find the wireing diagram on Kris's site can you please tell me where to get it from

No Russian

What JST Crimp tool(s) do you use?

Meanwell is Taiwanese. There are better supplies out there, but they are good enough.

where can i find the files for the hygrometers?

I think there is a misnomer going on here. Non power routing means that power travels to each rail regardless of the switch which is fine to carry power to all areas of a layout. Power routing should be renamed power on connected track only. I can't imaging what power routing would be used for unless maybe you had an auto decoupler right next to the turnout to say dump carriages on a loader line or something to that effect.

That tab is a key for a notch in the cardboard inside a refill, it also keys into a notch in the RFIF plastic strip.

What will be the cost to make a 20 character split flap display?

Code please?

Stop saying aaaah

Thank you. I appreciated the info.

Great video for us beginners - thank you so much. Can I ask where you got the holders for reader and desiccant

Had no sound or way to un-mute. I did find captions and was able to read them.

hahahaha this is a terrible print, the quality is zero

I know i am late, whats the hotend? Looks like a revo?

I have been trying to update the firmware on the board using the LDO supplied memory card but it doesn’t seem to be doing the update. could this be the memory card?

Hi are you interested in testing Fixdry products?

Стяжечка вот эта очень смешная)) На ней всё держится

Cheers!!

Detailed tutorial! If any custom PCBs/ 3DP/CNC'd parts can assist for upcoming projects? Would like to sponsor and reach any collab together! (PCBWay zoey)

I tried laser cutting flaps years ago but that involved a lot of hand painting (screen printing) of the flaps. The idea of 3D printing multi-colored flaps works very well. All 45 flaps fit on the Prusa XL in one go. I'm not sure which type of HALL sensor I have (still in the mail) but since I will use Raspberry Pi Pico (4 units on 1 Pico) I have to rewrite to software. That also allows me to optimize the thing a bit. @18:10 you'll see that the unit passes the '0' once before stopping there. This is (I think) due to a re-homing sequence that I have seen in the Arduino code.

nice place to put your phone

This HDR is the worst thing ever, please stop with this, this video is not even HDR, you just enabled it just to have it brighter

Just built a 6Ah with same kit, the DeWalt has no BMS inside the battery pack like Makita, the BMS is in the charger. This kit goes together very well with wire channels not shown in video. A bit more challenging than a Makita pack but very doable.

Do you have the same green plastic as me? At least it looks like mine, the label says green :)

Hi. Thanks a lot for the video!

how did you manage to paint your frames?

Why did you use all arduinos and an ESP01 to give wifi.... You should be able to do this all from a single ESP32 and either do a single PCB across the back that all the motors and sensors plug into, or do them in the PCB place here and make a jumper wire like you did to connect them all, but feed all the GPIO back to the ESP32... seems like a huge waste to do it this way, even with how cheap the arduino nano's are.

Niedlich :-)

Hi, could you share this code with me ? I'm building a grade crossing for my layout.