Thanks man 🤪

I had the t stake cut out of a 2 and a half thick plate and then grind the work surfaces.

@@ArmureDube thank you for that information! I can now stop looking on Ebay and start talking to my local steel supplier.

@@kindyrpenumbra7170 👍

Ну это алюминий всё-таки))

just a front grieve is not that hard, but fully cased grieves I would put in solid 3rd place, after helmet and gauntlets.

просмотров 1 июл. 2024 г. The making of half greaves in aluminium plate 2,3 mm thick for larp

@@hartman94 Ага, тоже удивился сперва толщине среза, не мог понять куда столько железа , потом всё понятно стало)

I noticed that too! I have a guess as to why! I don't actually know how it behaves at this thickness, or at this scale, but for thinner sheet aluminum in smaller applications (say, making plate armor but tiny - for a stuffed animal, let's say) the aluminum tends to bruise and dent pretty badly under any steel-faced hammer. I think it's to do with the difference in hardness, because steel hammers on steel sheet doesn't do it so badly, nor do steel hammers on brass, silver, or copper, but since aluminum is SO much softer, it does. But it makes it a royal pain to work aluminum this way (at least, for an amateur like me), because it's nearly impossible to avoid, and almost as hard to get rid of it. That's why for aluminum, I usually use a nylon-faced jewelry hammer, rather than a steel one - but I don't know how feasible that is for human-scale armor. Getting it smooth, even after planishing, is still a big task with a nylon-faced hammer, but with a steel one, I've had even less luck, and I think it would probably mean taking a lot of material off the surface, just to get rid of the bruising. Which, at this thickness, is totally doable, but is a bit much at 0.6mm (which is what I usually use). But I'm guessing that what we're seeing as trying not to hit it too hard is to mitigate how much it bruises (which I assume is way easier for someone of this skill level, as opposed to my clumsy ass), to preserve more of the material thickness and uniformity against that bruising, and against removing material in the end. I'd be really intrigued to know how thick the final piece is, versus the 2.3mm at the beginning!! I could be totally wrong, though - I have zero expertise on any of this. I'd love to hear what the master himself says about it!

@@austinvanfleet3849 thanks for your answer, that explains a lot and gives me plenty to think about. Perhaps do like the French did in the 1500s (apparently) and use a wheeling machine for planishing and final smoothing? I guess one would have to have some pretty small wheels for making greaves but it might allow a smith to get the thicknesses required...