When you make it you're self at least it is all metal and not that half assed plastic junk they sell from Tormek ( the new one , the old type hade more metal ) 🙄🙄
@PhuongTran-jw4go16 күн бұрын
This method is only suitable for diamonds. With sic, mix very little epoxy and must have a compression molding machine
@WoodfulProjects15 күн бұрын
Fully agreed. I did try to compress the sic but i had used too much epoxy. It works but not as good as it should. Cheers
@ryanmckee697116 күн бұрын
Wow, excellent job and innovation! I never would have thought of making my own resin bonded diamond stones! This is something that will save people a lot of money. Thank you for the video, I'd love to see more sharpening related stuff!
@WoodfulProjects15 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot. 🍺
@johnkemas7344Ай бұрын
Which Paraloid version do you consider the hardest and most durable?
@WoodfulProjectsАй бұрын
12:05 you can see a summary different criteria. I would go with B44.
@johnkemas7344Ай бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects Thanks for the reply! Will try it.
@NaturallystatedАй бұрын
Is it really least expensive if it ruins your vacuum equipment?
@WoodfulProjectsАй бұрын
Well. Did stabilize multiple times with this method and so far, I’m still using the same equipment. Btw I purchased the vacuum chamber + pump 70€. This is basically the price of 1,5L of Cactus Juice. I let you do the math and have your own conclusion.
@ElmarLecherАй бұрын
Very nice build. very well done. As this is 2 years ago - are you happy with your wood choice? I consider building a meranti workbench too. Living in Rotterdam its one of the cheapest and most stable hard woods here...
@WoodfulProjectsАй бұрын
Thanks ☺️. I would definitely recommend it. Very stable. The wood is very forgiving whatever I do on it (stains, hits, cuts, etc). I have another pine workbench and honestly I prefer definitely the meranti one. Cheers
@ubiratanmartins3143Ай бұрын
Qual a espessura da chapa q vc uzo
@ckngmad1357Ай бұрын
Looking good man
@WoodfulProjectsАй бұрын
Thanks for watching.
@robertoorozco53672 ай бұрын
No tools
@WoodfulProjects2 ай бұрын
🙄?
@Belows6822 ай бұрын
Hello. I have been dissolving acrylic in acetone for a few days now. The mixture has became quite cloudy yet there is still undissolved acrylic in the bottom and the consistency is still like water. Is thia similar to your experience. I am mostly worried there is not enough dissolved acrylic in solution. I used much more in my mixture then it appeared you did. Mine may be at full saturation but i am not sure
@WoodfulProjects2 ай бұрын
Well, I did add much more than what I initially added. All the ratios are shown in a summary at the end of the video. But indeed the more you add the more difficult it will be to dissolve. One thing to keep in mind is that you don’t want to add too much otherwise the consistency is too thick and thus won’t penetrate the wood deep enough. Curious to have a feedback on your results. Cheers
@Belows6822 ай бұрын
Hey again. Wow, thanks for the reply! I didnt expect one that fast. I am in my shop now trying to get more to dissolve. Im certain its near complete saturation, so i will be trying my first stabilization today and will definitely report back. I work mostly with .5x2x6 inch blanks for tool and knife handles. The shapes are different from pen blanks but i imagine they will react in a similar way. Now, if i can get my freshly dyed blanks to not warp while drying ill really be good to go. Happy turning, friend.
@WoodfulProjects2 ай бұрын
@@Belows682the only piece of advice I could give is to be careful with the acetone vapors. As you saw in the video, it is very corrosive for the acrylic lid so I’ll let you imagine what it could do to the lungs. Happy exploration in the world of stabilizing and see you next time. Cheers
@albertkaiser95633 ай бұрын
Ethylacetat soll sich am besten dafür eignen! Ich werde es mal testen sobald die bestellung da ist. Ich habe ein stück gestockte Birke im vakuum stabilisiert 182g. dovor 427g. danach 260g. nach dem trocknen! ich habe B44 benutzt mit Impressin90 ist es deutlich schwerer!Habe auch teile ohne vakuum getaucht bis sie sich vollgesaugt haben funktioniert auch!
@StanWatt.3 ай бұрын
What type of resin do you use, please? Is it just the usual resin and why doesn't it set when left in the pressurised container?
@WoodfulProjects3 ай бұрын
Hi, this is stabilizing resin, it is used to stabilize wood (either punky wood or just wood in general). Once stabilized, the wood does rot anymore as all the pores are filled with resin. It kinda becomes like « plastic ». That’s why it is used for knife scales so the knife handle does not get altered by water. The reason why it does not set is because it is not supposed to… The only way to set stabilizing resin is to heat it (thermosetting resin). I think you might have mistook it with epoxy. Epoxy will indeed set some hours after casting. Cheers
@Yaridnac4 ай бұрын
I don’t have the money either but I don’t have the tools to do it!😂😂😂 beautiful job sir! That was satisfying to watch! ❤❤❤
@WoodfulProjects4 ай бұрын
Thank you for watching. I really appreciate your kind comment.
@AprilAllYear4 ай бұрын
The final result was *stunningly* beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
@WoodfulProjects4 ай бұрын
Thanks a lot for watching and for your kind comment. Cheers
@bitsurfer01014 ай бұрын
If you're using vacuum, I think you meant to say 25inHg
@danielphelps68155 ай бұрын
Beautiful work! May I ask where you source your wood?
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
Thanks a lot. Where are you from? I get my wood from a local sawmill (in Belgium 😁). Still have some slabs to get rid of but people seem not interested in purchasing.
@danielphelps68155 ай бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects I've just moved to Belgium and am trying to find a local source of lumber for projects of my own. You wouldn't happen to know of any good sawmills or lumberyards in the area around Leuven, would you?
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@danielphelps6815 I live near Leuven too. No mill in the surroundings but there’s one in Walcourt where I get the wood from. Unfortunately they only sell fresh sawn wood. You have to buy and dry it yourself. If you want to come check the slabs as the one you see in the video, drop me an email here and we can talk and arrange something. Cheers
@nadiapagnotti5145Ай бұрын
I’m intrigued that you used a router to plane? I have to plane some spalted maple myself and I have a hand planer but i fear it will be too aggressive no matter the setting.
@jamesrakestraw71255 ай бұрын
What is the right size for pen blanks?
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
If you want to have engoua material to drill at ease, it should be minimum 2cm wide. As for the length, it really depends on the pen mechanisms you buy. I have mechanisms that need 10cm long qnd others 11,5cm long. So really depends on
@ilyaskara12505 ай бұрын
Güzel bir çalışma olmuş tebrikler 👍👍
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
🤷♂️ I don’t understand but thanks I guess
@tohaismail98155 ай бұрын
Apa bisa pessn jignya?? Berapa harganya?
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
Sorry, don’t understand.
@tohaismail98155 ай бұрын
Can I order the jig? How mauch does it cost?
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@tohaismail9815oh, sorry I don’t sell the jigs, I just do them for my own use. But if I may recommend something, it would cost you less to buy the official SVM45 jig, which costs somewhere between 15 and 20$. Cheers
@pauldziedzic58085 ай бұрын
It is my understanding that Paranoid will not dissolve in Isopropyl Alcohol???
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
So far, the few tests I’ve done, it does dissolve but not in the same way and rate as it was in acetone. It remains at the bottom in a slimy form. No matter how much you stir, at some point it doesn’t dissolve anymore. But might worth doing some tests.
@thechumpsbeendumped.77975 ай бұрын
7:48 you could set up a sous vide thermometer to get the oven to maintain a lower temperatures than it’s thermostat permits.
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
Yes you’re right. Could put it in a bag sous vide and cook it in warm water to reach the right temperature. I’ve seen this technique in some other videos but I didn’t have the right equipment in the shop to do it this way. 👍👍
@thechumpsbeendumped.77975 ай бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects That’s not what I meant. I’ve got a sous vide device that would turn that stove on and off to maintain the perfect temp. The stove is plugged into the device its probe would be placed inside the oven, either naked, in a dish of water or preferably in a piece of wood of a similar size to what you’re curing to mimic what’s going on inside the pen blanks.
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 no sure I understand what kind of device that is. In French “sous vide” means vacuum device. So I’m a bit lost. Anything specific I can loop up on the web?
@thechumpsbeendumped.77975 ай бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects If I haven’t given it away I may still have one somewhere. I’ll try to find it and forward the to you. In essence, all it is is a machine that has a very accurate temp probe that when the temp deviates from the desired range by more than 0.5° it turns the electricity on or off to it’s built in outlet thus making any device highly controllable, be it a mini oven, rice cooker, crockpot etc. I used to use mine with a rice cooker to get perfect boiled eggs.
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 I’ve never used such machine but it can be a good solution for very precise temperatures.
@calderon41286 ай бұрын
Paraloid is a Thermoplastic resin not a thermosseting one. What you are doing in the oven is evaporating the solvent, acetone or any other and letting behind the paraloid. Your wood will be inexorably more porous than one stabilized with cactus Juice.
@WoodfulProjects6 ай бұрын
Thanks for adding your knowledge to this topic. Definitely the wood is not much filled as it is with CJ (and thus more porous).
@calderon41286 ай бұрын
Why you do not show the weigh increase of the blanks with cactus Juice ? I have obtained weigh increses as much as 110 % depending on the typoe of wood. On the other hand, I think the CA finish will make all the blanks look similar.
@WoodfulProjects6 ай бұрын
Hi, did you watch the video until the end? There is a summary of my conclusions and the weight of the blanks is shown too 12:04
@Mr_Chuckles6 ай бұрын
On very burled wood ie. lots of eyes, I've got penetration as low as 10%. It's a very unreliable method to tell penetration, as the wood's complexity can mean that areas are inaccessible. Also, I have had pieces floating after a month and they never fully penetrate. The only thing I've found is just to have a standard method (I vacuum for 24 hours, release vacuum, soak for a week) and stick to it, then fix any voids down the line with epoxy or CA depending on size.
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@Mr_Chuckles totally agree. Because burl wood is really condensed and compressed, there are less pores to fill with resin. In comparison, punky wood can increase up to 80% weight sometimes.
@calderon41285 ай бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects There is No weight for the blanks with Cactus Juice
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@calderon4128 this is a video about paraloid, not cactus juice. Hence I’m only showing the weight of paraloid stabilized blanks. If you are interested in the weight increase when stabilized with CJ, I have another video on that. Cheers
@incendioereptus8146 ай бұрын
Merci pour la vidéo. Sauf erreur de ma part la plupart des paraloids sont insolubles dans les alcools. Le B67 devrait se diluer dans l'isobutanol mais les autres non. Il faudrait aussi tester la résistance à la chaleur des produits finaux, les paraloids ayant souvent une température de transition vitreuse assez basse. Est ce que le passage au four est nécessaire ? Dans le cas d'une résine d'imprégnation il faut provoquer (ou accélérer) une réaction chimique, pour le paraloid le diluant ne sert que de véhicule. Sa simple évaporation suffit pour une solidification du produit dilué (les diluants utilisés sont très volatils). La chaleur peut accélérer le processus mais quels effets sur le résultat final ? De plus les vapeurs sont toxiques. Le B72 a une température de transition vitreuse de 40° commence à fondre à 70 et coule à 140. Le passage au four risque de faire migrer le produit. Il faut aussi considérer dans l'efficacité du produit la quantité injectée. 100 grammes de résine injectée augmente le poids de 100 grammes (environ peu d'évaporation). 100 grammes de mélange paraloid à 30% augmente le poids de 33 grammes (après évaporation du diluant). Y a t il un effet sur la solidité ? Ce qui est sûr c'est que c'est une bonne voie vu le prix des stabilisateurs. Bonne continuation.
@WoodfulProjects6 ай бұрын
Hello et merci pour le commentaire constructif. Comme vous pouvez le constater, les 3 sont solubles dans de l’acétone mais à tester sur l’alcool. Mes connaissances sur ce produit étant assez limitées , le but était de “jouer” avec les paraloid pour voir le rendu final. Je ne dispose malheureusement pas de matériel scientifique (ni des connaissances d’ailleurs) pour tester de manière précise les propriétés mécaniques du bois après stabilisation avec le paraloid. Ce que je constate néanmoins est que le bois échauffé à un stade très avancé (quasi pourri) a gagné en rigidité et ne s’effrite plus. Bonnes fêtes
@G4m1c5 ай бұрын
Je n'y connais rien du tout mais sur le site artificina il est écrit "- Consolidation des bois et bois vermoulus (10 à 20% dans du toluène ou du xylène)" Si ça peut aider...
@WoodfulProjects5 ай бұрын
@@G4m1cmerci. Ca vaut la peine d’essayer. J’ignore si ces deux produits sont aussi corrosifs que l’acétone vis à vis des plastiques mais je garde cela à l’œil. Par contre, 20% de ratio me paraît très peu.
@TimPiggott6 ай бұрын
Inspiring!
@WoodfulProjects6 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching
@googlepipes63236 ай бұрын
stupid music without any real content
@Tanuki.Express7 ай бұрын
Stellar, but why does he call it a Star Wars plane till? - “May the #4s be with you.” I think you should leave.
@WoodfulProjects7 ай бұрын
😂?
@Jeff-td6ql7 ай бұрын
B67 is soluble in alcohols though B67 is NOT, fyi per DOW property sheet.
@andrewlawrence93408 ай бұрын
Nice work!
@WoodfulProjects8 ай бұрын
Thank you 👍
@juanmanuelperezmoreno62878 ай бұрын
Por favor, indícame si has conseguido disolver la resina B-72 en alcohol isopropílico y cómo lo has hecho. Yo tengo la mezcla de 50 gramos en un litro de alcohol isopropílico, aparece una zona sin cambio, una zona como un gel y el resto liquido blanquecino, lleva ya 11 días y no termina de disolverse, la información que encuentro sobre el tema no me ayuda. gracias, un saludo. S'il vous plaît, dites-moi si vous avez réussi à dissoudre la résine B-72 dans de l'alcool isopropylique et comment vous l'avez fait. J'ai le mélange de 50 grammes dans un litre d'alcool isopropylique, une zone sans changement apparaît, une zone comme un gel et le reste un liquide blanchâtre, ça dure depuis 11 jours et ça n'a pas fini de se dissoudre, l'information je trouver sur le sujet ne m'aide pas. Merci salutations.
@WoodfulProjects8 ай бұрын
Bonjour. Je n’ai malheureusement pas dissout du paraloid dans de l’alcool mais quand je fais des recherches sur cela, il semblerait que c’est plus compliqué de dissoudre sans l’alcool que dans l’acétone. Cela dit, il est possible de dissoudre dans l’alcool mais cela requiert beaucoup plus de temps. Le résultat final sera plus épais également. Je vous conseillerais d’utiliser plutôt de l’éthanol qui semble dissoudre un peu plus vite mais attention que c’est très toxique comme substance. Bonne expérimentation.
@thecropheads8269 ай бұрын
very informative video..i supposed we can't add dye/tint for paraloid mix, am i right?
@WoodfulProjects9 ай бұрын
Hi. You can add dye or pigment it does work. I've already tried it but it didn't work properly, only the first 5 mm were colored but I think this happend because I didn't let it enough time submerged. But definitely you can use dye. Cheers
@dane55479 ай бұрын
Thanks for this video. Can you post where to purchased B44 and b72 in the U.S.
@WoodfulProjects9 ай бұрын
Hi. Unfortunately, I have no idea where this can be sold in the US. I live in Europe... Thanks for watching.
@Dustmadeout Жыл бұрын
How does the price of B44 with acetone compare to the Cactus Juice?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Hello, the prices of acetone and paraloid are described in the description of the video. Cheers
@Dustmadeout Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjectsThank you. I've read that it is reversible and can be dissolved again in a solvant. Did you try this with wooden handles?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@Dustmadeout i haven’t tried it but here’s what I think : only the external layer will be dissolved. Because the pores are filled with resin, no solvant will be able to get inside, dissolve the resin then empty the pores of the wood
@DaNielsBuild Жыл бұрын
which resin in your opinion showed the best result?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Hey Daniel. Hard to tell but if I was to go again with one of the resins, I’ll pick B72 or B44. Definitely not B67. But again, it’s not necessarily a scientific approach… I added a comparative sheet at the end of the video. You can see that B67 had hard times penetrating the wood while the other 2 did better. Even the texture of the B67 was a bit ‘’gummier’’. Cheers
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Oh and another thing careful using it with acetone as the vapors will damage the vacuum pump and the acrylic lid. You may want to consider another diluting agent (alcool, spirits, etc)
@DaNielsBuild Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects thank you very much for your reply, and how would you compare it to cacts juice? is it at least similar to that?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@DaNielsBuild if you can afford CJ then go for it. This alternative (paraloid) can be be used to help out but shouldn’t replace the classic solutions such as CJ or similar products that are meant to stabilize wood (at least not under the acetone form). And yes, the result is similar or very close to CJ. As you can see in the video, I stabilized some spalted punky wood and the result came ok.
@Danny19805 Жыл бұрын
Whitch type of wood are those
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Hello, this is spalted maple.
@braddobson2060 Жыл бұрын
Buy a proper rip blade
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Can you develop ?
@APatchworkCanvas Жыл бұрын
Buy me a rip blade plz
@mountainviewturning5319 Жыл бұрын
Neat looking table
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching
@Mr_Chuckles Жыл бұрын
Are you not worried about those acetone vapours entering your hot vacuum pump? Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Also acetone will eat many things such as grease, rubber, plastics, etc.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Hot vacuum pump? If you know how a vacuum pumps works, you know that there’s nothing to be worried on this matter. However, where you are totally right is about the acetone attacking the rubber and plastic parts. It does indeed destroy them if you do stabilize frequently with acetone. If you use it once in a while, no major issues to be adressed.
@Mr_Chuckles Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects Cool, thanks for your reply. It is a pity that these pellets have to be suspended in such aggressive solvents. I presume that Cactus Juice etc. have some kind of proprietary resin that is oil-soluble...at least it feels somewhat like oil. Certainly doesn't evaporate at all.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@Mr_Chuckles actually, on one of my previous videos I’ve also shown that cactus juice is really aggressive. Acetone kinda melts then acrylic lid but then it just hardens back while cactus juice create cracks on it which presents a risk of implosion (have seen plenty of videos where vacuum chamber had imploded during the stabilization process because the acrylic lid got attacked by CJ. But except this issue, I haven’t noticed any other damage from CJ to the vacuum pump itself while acetone did. I’ve discussed this matter on the forum penturners.org. You may want to give a look. Cheers
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@Mr_Chuckles oh and forget to mention, indeed CJ evaporation is not on the same level as acetone. But as said in the video, this is a cheap alternative. If you can afford CJ, I would recommend to better stabilize with it.
@calderon41286 ай бұрын
Cactus Juice is a Thermosetting resin. It cures by heat all the resin. There is no solvent to evaporate@@Mr_Chuckles
@milohenry1233 Жыл бұрын
Hi can I ask why do u use all 3 types? Is one not better for wood ?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
It’s a test. I’m not a chemist and have no idea which one is better for wood. This said, the purpose of the test was to see if one of them penetrate better on the wood and the final curing step (hard or gummy). Thanks for watching.
@alanmustarde Жыл бұрын
Thank you, slow down on the meat of the video, the metal, clamp that’s why we watch, not the handle ,
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Got it. I’ll do better next time as I plan to make the whole series of Tormek jigs.
@alanmustarde Жыл бұрын
Really appreciate this video, every time an interesting metal video comes up the maker casually turns to the mill, we are just enthusiasts, we have a few tools collected over a lifetime, a drill a grinder, a hacksaw, etc. please remember we are your audience, don’t casually turn to pretty serious kit that we only dream of.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
🤔🤔 not sure I understood everything but thanks again.
@alanmustarde Жыл бұрын
Why waste 1/3 of video on making a wooden stop/handle and then fast forward the important making of the jaws.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
The whole video is a fast forward if you carefully watch it. Now, if you have any question about the making of the jaws I’ll be glad to answer. Thanks for watching.
@notawix8542 Жыл бұрын
will it centre a thick knife?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Hi. The jig can handle up to 8mm of thickness. Regarding the centering, as noted by one of the viewers (see comment) there is a gap between the upper part and the lower part relating to the support rod. Meaning that the edge of the knife will be offset of 0,001mm or something la that (nothing noticeable).
@GillisBjork Жыл бұрын
Great job repurposing what you have to make what you need! I like the retaining screw and groove in the threaded rod, that was creative. Also the instant glueup technique, I'll have to learn that for sure :p I used to have a similar tailvice and found that it tended to flex downwards, making it push the workpiece up off the bench; if you get the same problem, cutting a small angle on the dog block could help (so the top edge of the block contacts the workpiece first), if you didn't already do that :)
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for watching and for your comment. For now it does not flex downward as the holes for the 2 guides are quite snug fit. But, the more I'll use it, the more it will wear out (wobbly) -> larger holes will surely flex downward. So thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind for when it's needed. As for the angle you cut on the dog block, does it marks your wood piece when you clamp it?
@GillisBjork Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects Sounds good, I would think if there is no flex now, it should stay good for a long time! Maybe the parts I used were not of great quality. Theoretically, the angle should correspond to the amount of flex, so when force is applied, the entire dog makes contact. But in reality it's of course not easy or practical to always apply the same amount of force, so yeah, sometimes there is marking in the endgrain. For most things I make that's not a problem as the endgrain will usually end up inside a mortise or covered in some other way, but when it will be exposed, I put a scrap of soft spruce between the workpiece and the dog.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@GillisBjork thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@robertblalock5009 Жыл бұрын
I don't have metal working tools, so what would you charge to make one.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Given the amount of time it takes me to make one, adding the shipping costs and material costs, it is absolutely not worthy for you neither for me to make one :). It will cost you way less to buy the original one (which costs around 18€). Thanks for watching.
@robertblalock5009 Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects I am not familiar with any monies other than USA dollars. convert please and thanks for the video.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
It is roughly the same amount in US$. Just look up on google svm45 and you’ll find what you’re looking for. Best of luck.
@aries6776 Жыл бұрын
Would have been nice to get a clear shot of the actual set up assembled. Is the holder arm just sitting on the horizontal rest?
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
Yes it is. The wooden arm is resting on the horizontal support bar, just like the original one.
@aries6776 Жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects Thanks for clarifying.
@WoodfulProjects Жыл бұрын
@@aries6776 thanks for watching 👍
@a.p.a.woodmetal34122 жыл бұрын
Very cool project and good work 👍👍👍 like
@WoodfulProjects2 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot my friend. Glad you enjoyed it.
@workshop_oselok_kyiv2 жыл бұрын
the factory clamp gives asymmetry on the cutting edge. you can completely keep silent about your invention. and taking into account all the manipulations necessary for production, it is cheaper to go and buy.
@WoodfulProjects2 жыл бұрын
Not sure about what factory clamp you are talking about and not sure to what asymetry you are referring too. As you can read it in the description, given all the work it required, it is indeed easier to buy it. But, this is worth for 90% of DIY videos on youtube. It's always easier to buy and not to do it yourself because you can't compete with big factories and economies of scale... Anyway, thanks for watching.
@workshop_oselok_kyiv2 жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects I'm talking about the original holder. if you want to achieve high accuracy when sharpening, then the tool must be appropriate. cutting edge asymmetry. when the edge width on one side is different from the width on the other side of the knife.
@WoodfulProjects2 жыл бұрын
@@workshop_oselok_kyiv at what moment did I mention high accuracy? I mean, I’m an amateur and at no point I claim that this is the best solution. It’s just an alternative to the original and it satisfies me totally. I do understand now what you mean by asymmetry. But let’s be honest, there less asymmetry due to the width difference in my jig than there is due to the use (totally manual) of an original Svm45. 80% of people I’ve seen do not use it properly, and if you’re part of the remaining 20%, then glad for you.
@Lalagartitita2 жыл бұрын
Probably a dumb question but, why did you plane after applying the oil and not before? beautiful workbench and gorgeous wood.
@WoodfulProjects2 жыл бұрын
Hello. There are no dumb questions. I actually did not plane it after applying oil. I first plane the bottom face of the table then applied oil. After that, I plane the top face then applied oil :). Thanks for you kind comment and for watching.
@Lalagartitita2 жыл бұрын
@@WoodfulProjects Oh ok, I didn't see it was the bottom side. Cheers!
@a.p.a.woodmetal34122 жыл бұрын
Very beautiful wood work 🤗👏👍👍👍 like my friend. Best wishes.
@WoodfulProjects2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your kind comment. Really appreciate it. 🍻