Thanks for watching :) lol I remember this race.. lots of pressure to catch up and hold. I enjoy that nervous feeling and always challenge myself to bear down to stay consistent. I was the first one to show up with this truck and basically ran the stock setup. The rear was loose for sure and with a dusty track, it was a true challenge to hold the line. If you get a chance to check my other videos about the SL, there's some really good close-ups of my wiring setup. Honestly, I try to use the thickest possible gauge wire and the shortest length to get max power flow. I'm almost OCD when it comes to wiring lol has to be neat.

Hi, I'm running a Reedy Combo: Reedy Sonic 540 M3 Motor and Sonic 510R ESC. There's a newer 540 M4 motor and probably a new version 510R ESC too.

@ thanks

The shorter brace allows for more flex in the rear and helps with bumps and ruts. I'd go with the longer or even both braces for smoother conditions or indoor tracks. Thanks for watching!

@in4bliss absolutely bro I love the videos! I just ordered my sct410SL yesterday mainly to be driven on well kept outdoor 8th scale, with occasional super well kept indoor clay. This is my first kit so wish me luck! Lol

@@cooperracing346 Hi, here's a link to the battery. Gaoneng GNB 6300MAH 2S HV 7.6V... www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLM25B5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

@@phillybrc Thank you! Sub back at ya :)

Hi, thanks for watching :) Here's what I use (medium) CA glue. They also have a thin option if you like fast flow. a.co/d/gbC0o2E

Hello, I'm running a Reedy 540 M3 6.5T and Reedy Blackbox 510r esc. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching :) Shocks: 500 front, 450 Rear. Diffs 30-30-10 (Front-Center-Rear). I haven't raced it in a while. The class was already seeing less and less entries. Been thinking of selling it recently and get back into 1/8 ebuggy.

Hey :) So I do something that's probably not initially good for the bearings although they are rubber sealed. First I take off the wheels and brush all the excess dust and dirt chunks off and use an electric blower (look up x power blower on Amazon). Then I take full strength simple green and spray the front and rear end and as close to the rear diff as possible without getting any on the motor. I never spray the electronics. Then while it's wet with simple green, I brush all of the areas, especially the shocks and drive shaft/ outdrive areas. I use a $12 long bristle paint brush from Home Depot to reach all those areas. Then I blast all that away with the electric blower until it's dry. I wipe the bottom and some of the top area with a cloth wet with simple green. Then I grab WD-40 and douse all of those areas liberally. Especially the output drives. I can go through a large can of WD within 2 races with two cars to clean. Okay, so with all that WD-40 dripping off, I set the car to drip on a flat surface (not tilted at all) and let sit for around 10 minutes or so. Then I hit all those areas again with the electric blower. Air compressors are ok but usually carry moisture in the tanks and if not using a moisture filter, will spray water mist on your car. Not good lol. So after the drip dry, I wipe it all down with that same rag and put in a carry bag. Later on when sitting around I take a micro fiber cloth dampened with simple green and wipe the whole inside area of the car. I use a wood or plastic pick with the cloth wrapped on the tip to get to the tough spots. Sometimes I even use q-tips lol. But that's my process :) I do the same for the tires/wheels minus the WD-40 of course lol.

Hello, this has worked out very well. Never had a single ball end pop off. The adjustment notch is super easy to use and these results are for my 410SL and ET410.2. I even reached out to 1UP and let them know the turnbuckles are great. Gave them a link to this video too. I asked them about sponsorship and the told me to go apply lol. So no, I'm not sponsored by them. Only thing I want to mention is, even after prep drilling and greasing, they were still pretty tight and I still had to hold a rod end with long nose pliers to make adjustments on the turnbuckles. Not sure I would change that though. If drilled out too much, it might be too loose and end up pulling out or ripping threads in a bad crash. Thanks for watching, I appreciate the support!

Big thanks :) Yeah, good ol' real life kicking in and expensive to keep up with racing (competitively) when RL says hello lol. I'll be back racing though because it's just too much fun! My SL is ready to go.. just hangin' out in my little RC trailer. Maybe I'll look for a deal on a 2.0. I hear it's pretty tanky lol. I remember feeling more stability from the weight of my 410.3 which is still a good choice for a bigger track. Thank you very much for your support!

Yeah, there was a recent change for 2024. The owner is not longer selling VP-Pro (just left over). He created his own tire line and it's made in the USA but so far only 1/8 buggy and I think 1/8 truggy coming soon. I appreciate you watching though. I'll get more content up soon :)

Hi, yes it felt more stable this way overall. This track is on the bigger side for this class so the turns aren't super tight. Shocks forward definitely turns tighter but on a dusty blown out corner, it caused more spin outs. The shocks to the rear minimized this. If I was racing indoors and on a smaller track, I would have kept the shocks in stock position. Btw, I did the same on my SCT410SL and got the same results. Oh, and overall more stability with shocks to the rear especially through ruts and recovering bad landings. Thanks for watching and sorry for the late reply.

Front TKR7044: www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-50mm-front-shock-spring-set-orange-2-5.75lbin-tkr7044/p1245056?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7mwBhCiARIsAGoxjaLBVLeXT1b9uM8AxCseRpWN0J_Vx9ljUX-OsK4YsILWYx3MsS1o_RAaAh8aEALw_wcB Rear TKR7246: www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-63mm-rear-shock-spring-set-1.3x9.375-orange-3.01lb-in-tkr7246/p788353

Here's all the info from one of my other videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmTEf3uZib6saZYsi=bjWWhC5CFtgNu16d

Also, the ball ends I used are the stock ones from the kit.

Nice! Come race with us sometime :)

Thanks! I'm using the stock spur gear and 18T pinion.

Thank you

Best thing for this is to talk to the people at the track you'll be going to. In general though, the higher kv smaller size motors like 3300 up to 4600 go well with 2s (electric 4wd short course). The larger motors with lower kv 1800 to 2200 usually go with 4s 1/8 ebuggies. For this lightweight 410SL, a 5.5T to 6.5T on 2s would work. But ya, it really depends on the class and the track. I think I won 9 or 10 races in a row with my 410SL on a 6.5T Reedy on 2s.

Hi, thanks for watching! Check out the 40 second mark in my video below. The only difference is the tread pattern. At my track I like the Gripz all around but the Striker seems better in loose or loamy conditions. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZesYqeirdZ2q6csi=xD1Gd4Jf2gHOUxa2

Hi, thanks for watching, try this link to my setup sheet. I may have to approve to view first though. drive.google.com/file/d/10f5W941u8f-Htv9JaSMLciqCa3nkxWvI/[email protected]&sharingaction=manageaccess&role=writer&ts=650e217a

I hear ya there.. It's a very expensive kit and should be near bulletproof for $450. I heard a lot about rear bulkheads breaking. Something tells me the rear bumper mod I did kept some pressure off it. I'm still running the original bulkhead and had many races with some really bad crashes.

Hi, thanks for watching, I got the from Amazon. BitGripper v2 Variations a.co/d/bNQwPh1

Thank you!

Hi Carlos, I wasn't in this race but for 1/8 ebuggy I drive for Sworkz. The S35-4E.

Hi, there's a link to my setup in the description of this video. Thanks for watching!

can't access it, sent a request

@@CarlosDelaoGunEngraver I'm sorry.. Really not sure why the link is doing that. Here it is on the 410SL fb group. m.facebook.com/groups/1189817885233005/permalink/1258668161681310/?mibextid=9R9pXO

I'm not sure exactly what the offset is but it's the same as the Tekno RC SCT wheel. If you can find out the offset of the Tekno wheel, that will be the offset.