Glad I could help

Glad I could help!

Glad I could hellp. I did not use any thread lock during assembly. It hasn't shaken anything loose yet but I have sheared the drive shear pins on fist size rocks and used grade 2 bolts in their place so they will still shear instead of breaking something expensive in the drive line. Also if you have rough rocky dirt the batteries will release to protect them from shock and damage. Just push them back down and go again.

The gap is maybe two inches. I can't get my hand in there without opening the door.

Glad I could help!

Glad I could help

Glad I could help!

Thanks, Glad I could help

I did not have those problems removing the base on my router. At 0.36 in the video I press the motor release lever (silver grey metal) with my left thumb then switch to my right thumb at 0:38 and slid the collar off with no problem. I wonder if perhaps the quick release lever (black lever left of the motor release lever) is adjusted just a little too tight causing it to never really release properly? The black screw can be adjusted with an Allen key right at the bottom of the quick release lever. It should not take much adjustment to loosen it enough to release properly but still clamp firmly when the quick release is closed. At 1:22 in the video you can just see my left thumb pressing on the gray plastic spindle lock button. If it depresses just a little then keep light pressure on and turn the collet (and motor shaft) until you feel the lock button drop down. Then at 1:34 I drop in the bit and again hold light pressure on the lock button as I turn the collet nut with the wrench and at 1:38 you can just see the button drop down and lock the shaft so I can tighten the bit solidly. Hope these notes are some help to you.

Thanks! I grew up on those Disney productions. Guess it stuck. Just had the Tazz out yesterday knocking weeds out of the potato patch and prepping for sweet corn planting. Great for cultivating after the heavy work with a tiller.

Thanks! Glad I could help.

40 inches doesn't sound deep until you try to haul a full auger out of it.

CloudEdge

@@HalDIY THANK! Lost my manual lol

I got mine from Home Depot. Don't recall the price and don't see them on the site anymore. Menards shows them at $180 today.

Thanks! Glad I could help.

@@HalDIY I forgot to mention I have a BORA Centipede Workbench insect thingy exactly like the one in your video. I love mine. A review of one would be awesome. Mine is invaluable, but would love to hear other opinions. Just a thought. I followed your tutorial and my project turned out better than I hoped. Need to think of other routing projects.

@@tada8092 I have two of the 2x4 ft Centipede benches. That lets me set a bench on a tiny patio at the condo but still let me put the two together to get a 4x4 space. I do that with 4 thin plywood 2x4 panels by putting one on each bench then at 90 degrees the other pair to clamp the benches together. I set that 4x4 up for a router sled to plane a tree trunk cookie to make a table lamp base then switched it to a router table to make rail and stile Shaker parts for Craftsman style doors. For these projects I use a full size Bosch router. Clamped together the stability isn't too bad. It is also yet another horizontal surface to collet unfinished project parts.....sigh.

Thanks!

Positioning the hopper while fastening it down is a little touchy to avoid pinching the damper. Loosen the bolts just enough to be able to wiggle the hopper and shift it to find the sweet spot where it slides easily then tighten alternate bolts to avoid moving the hopper position. I found lightly tapping the hopper bezel let me move it the tiny amounts necessary to get the best fit. Good luck and happy chipping!

Thank you

Thanks! Adding water and letting it work in really helps.

Glad I could help!

Glad I could help

That reminds me a bit of the old David-Bradley two wheel tractors I used long long ago (no PTO however). You would need to add a LOT of ballast to the Ryobi to get enough traction to pull a ground engaging implement, it just doesn't weigh a lot.

Thanks! Glad I could help!

Thanks! Glad I could help.

Receiver will show the distance from the center of the laser sensor in the receiver to where the laser is striking the sensor. The receiver does not know where it is on the stick so it can't show an actual height.

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Even worse as the dust hose is harder to manage than a cord. It is a tradeoff between easier use and easier clean up.

I use the chipper for spring pruning and storm cleanup so I don't run it heavily. The shredder works well but this next spring I need to take it apart to check on the chipper blades as I think I have dulled them a bit with the original fence row cleanup project and it isn't chipping like new.

Thanks! Glad I could help.

I just turn it off, mount it sideways on the tripod (controls facing up), let it sit a moment, then turn it on. It sets level automatically in vertical mode. The only problem I have in the basement is I put down DriCore foam back subfloor and if I walk around too near the tripod the floor wiggles too much and the Revolve stops and re-levels or sometimes just stops till I manually restart it. That is just normal reaction to an unstable base. Sorry to hear yours isn't behaving properly.

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Yes it does. The power switch has a High, Low, and Reverse setting. Just flip the switch, hang on, and hit the trigger. Having a reverse was a big reason I chose this auger.

Thanks! Glad I could help!

It is an effort to turn by hand as you are driving back through the gear box. There is definitely some vibration from the spinning paddles but I didn't think it was much different from the gas single stage I used previously. And it is a whole lot easier to get started in the cold!

Thanks for the reply! Useful since i haven't had the chance to go back. Electric doesn't have gearbox fyi. Motor, few gears and belt. Perhaps the tension on the belt

Thanks for the info. Sounds like yours is much stiffer to turn than mine. Firm thumb pressure will move my auger or thumb on top of housing and pull with fingers.

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No adjustment, it is one position only.

They are showing the newest one as PCL424B. Mine shows PCL424 on the router equipment tag. I haven't been able to find a difference in the specs.

The WEN is a high volume low suction dust collector. Generally 4 inch and up systems are high volume, 2 inch or so have higher suction. I have a RIDGID 4 gallon with a 5 gallon thien baffled bucket that I connect to tool dust ports such as miter saw, sanders, table saw, etc. I use the WEN to try to catch the dust that escapes the tool port. The combination works surprisingly well but I agree that more suction would be good. I also use the WEN for tools without port as it covers a larger area. The problem I find is high suction with high volume has an unpleasant tendency to come with high prices. I just don't do enough woodworking to justify a whole shop blast gated system. For higher suction I have been looking at the big RIDGID shop vacs in the 12 to 14 gallon range and 6 HP.

Absolutely correct! I really dropped the ball on that one.

Glad I could help.

Glad I could help. Good luck with finding a sale.

Glad I could help. Not buying the wrong one for your needs is even more important than finding the best one.

I found it on Amazon but later saw it went unavailable. Just make sure you get a 3/4 drive to match the augur. 3/4 inch is typically an ice augur size and earth auger is larger. If you try a larger size drive on the bit it will leave too large a gap between the drive of the augur and the bit and your cross pin will bend and be extremely hard and aggravating to try to get apart. Even with the same drive size the torque on this Ryobi is so high I have deformed extension cross pins and I still have one I haven't gotten apart. Cheap accessories really are not the answer for strong tools.

The shear pins go all the way through then the hitch pin only needs to go half way to secure the pin from slipping out. If you hit rocks there is a good chance you will shear the pins and I have not found a source for the original pins. I did get some 5/16 by 2 inch shear bolts by STENS from HD but you can get similar shear bolts other places. Do not be tempted to put in stronger bolts to prevent shearing as that will only transfer high forces into the transmission and cause very expensive damage there. Yes, replacing shear bolts is a hassle but it is way better than having major damage to the machine. You are correct, the tines should barely move (wiggle just a little due to pin and hole size tolerances) after the shear pins are installed. Wishing you great luck and fabulous results with your tilling!😃