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@robertoler3795 16 күн бұрын
looking good
@pandyseven 15 күн бұрын
Hi Robert, getting there and enjoying every part of the build. Are you building anything?
@I_hate_cats 16 күн бұрын
whats the target date for first flight?
@therbak4751 18 күн бұрын
It's coming along. Keep pushing.
@pandyseven 18 күн бұрын
It is, and enjoying the build more so now as its all coming together into one piece
@TheRealChetManley 19 күн бұрын
Looking good!
@pandyseven 19 күн бұрын
Yes, I'm almost there!
@zacharymills8954 19 күн бұрын
Your video helped me a lot with getting those little angle pieces for the stabilators drilled correctly! Thank you for posting these detailed videos!
@pandyseven 19 күн бұрын
I know the details on the drawings can be a little daunting at times, but I do want I know, then those harder bits or the bits I don’t understand just fall into place.... eventually
@bryancotton7279 20 күн бұрын
What Kip said! Looks good. My navigation lights are in about the same spot. One thing to consider on the wingtip attachment - aluminum rivets. That is what I've done. Much lighter and much easier than nutplates because there are a zillion of them. I've had to pull wingtips about 3 times and the aluminum rivets are quick and easy to drill out. You can double check but I believe Sonex approves aluminum rivets on the wingtips, though not on the Y tail tips.
@pandyseven 19 күн бұрын
Hi Bryan, probably or better will be using plate nuts and screws for the tips, even though there will be 6 million of them. Don’t like the idea of making them a permanent fixture with rivets, and just another way of have an inspection opening, I guess.
@kyqx 20 күн бұрын
Looking good, Andy. Keep plugging away!
@pandyseven 20 күн бұрын
Yes, I will, just have to finish this wing!
@АлексейДобряков-к4и 23 күн бұрын
Здравствуйте!Хотел спросить по лонжерону крыла?Есть упоры на лонжеронах в виде пластин чтобы крылья не опускались вниз при сборке.А есть ли такие упоры чтобы крылья не перемещались наверх разгружая два болта?Или подъемную силу воспринимают два болта?спасибо!
@pandyseven 20 күн бұрын
There are stops on each spar which basically aligns the wing into its position, then the 3 tooling holes are for alignment. Once that is achieved you have two forward half inch bolts and two rear quarter inch bolts that fix tight the two spars together with the bolts. So basically, you have 3 tooling holes and the two plates that align and you finish off with the bolts, two forward and two aft…hope this answers and I didn’t get lost in the translation?
@dan_der_flieger Ай бұрын
Hey Andy. I'm out of town at a conference for work this week and just saw this video. Since you asked ... Here's what i did on those countersunk forward skin holes: 1. I used a #40 drill bit to put pilot holes in the forward ribs according to the predrilled holes in the forward skin, using silver clecos to hold everything in place. I also used a wooden fixture I made that matched the cross section of the wing to ensure the skin was pressed up against the rib when drilling. 2. Then I up-drilled with a 7/64" drill bit and used the wooden fixture while doing so to hold everything in place and make sure my holes were centered. I still used silver clecos, though they were a little loose. The 7/64" holes are not big enough for copper clecos, but that was by design. I wanted the holes to be smaller after dimpling stretched them than i would've had with a #31/#32. 3. Then I deburred all of the 7/64" holes in the forward skin and the forward ribs. 4. Then I dimpled all of the 7/64" holes using the Sonex "simple dimple die." This stretches the holes to a larger size. 5. Then i reassembled the forward skin using copper clecos (which fit about the same as copper clecos in a normal, non-dimpled hole drilled with a #30 drill bit). In my testing, if I used the #31 or #32 drill bit suggested by Sonex, the holes stretched a little more than I liked during dimpling - everything felt too loose in those tests. 6. Using the wooden fixture to hold everything in place one last time, i riveted the forward skin to the ribs with flush rivets. The 7/64" holes seemed to be a really good compromise from start to finish and I was very happy with how everything fit together. Lots of Sonexes have been built by the book and you probably won't have any issues with 3mm/#31/#32 holes. I just preferred the tighter tolerances of the 7/64" holes during final riveting. BTW, I really like your landing light fixtures. I might need to copy that. 🙂
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Hi Dan, Ok, makes good sense….my copper Cleco’s after drilling with a 3mm did and didn’t fit, so just put in the minimal amount to hold the skin tight against the ribs. The holes are still smaller than if done with a # 30, so that is a good thing. You could or can if you stick to the 7/64 use a smaller nail in the dimple but need to be careful when squeezing the die so it does not off set the hole and give you a countersunk that is a bit off set. The correct nail supplied with my dimples was just to big for the 3mm hole so found a nail slightly smaller and on my test hole seemed to work. The duckworks lights are the best and highly recomend them.
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
Which ailerons are you going with Andy?
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
stock, so not aerobatic
@andrewschmidt5312 Ай бұрын
I jumped in to your build about a month ago and I apologize that I am too lazy to go through previous videos for an answer. I noticed on other builds in the states, mostly RVs, that the builders had a pathological need to alodine or prime the internal components of the wings as well as the rest of the plane to protect from corrosion. Never thought that was needed, and priming would add weight. And add to the build time. What was your decision making process for not doing this? And, if I may, have you heard from Gavin? Not seen anything from him for ages. Thank you sir. Great instructional video log of your construction process and I like how you pause to get information from Sonex before you continue with inaccurate plans or to answer a question. This will be a well built and safe aircraft.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Hi Andrew, I think the short answer is, is that with RV’s it is made from a different grade of aluminum or at least the earlier ones were. The Sonex is made of 6061-T6 and is naturally resistant to corrosion. That said I have primed the mating surfaces only, well that is except the spar as it came factory made. Earlier Sonex’s were primed, as was with RV, and is a builder’s choice. There are some aircraft flying today, that were primed and have corrosion, others not primed and no signs of corrosion- its horses for courses. Gavin is doing good, I emailed him around 3 weeks ago and he sent me a picture of his cowl fully fitted, looks great. Thanks for watching and your kind words
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
My first (aborted) project was an RV4, and I built the tail in the 1990s. Like a lot of builders I did the full acid etch, alodine, and prime treatment. Took a lot of time, nasty chemicals, and additional cost. Fast forward to 2009, I was restoring a 1946 Cessna C140 which like the RVs was built out of alclad 2024-T3 aluminum. So after about 64 years that airplane, which was a cheap airplane of the day in 1946, it was still airworthy. With that said part of the restoration involved a lot of disassembly, cleaning of corrosion, and priming so it would go another 64-100 years. My conclusion is that anything I build I probably won't be flying in 64 years, but it would probably be fine with bare aluminum. So when you alodine & prime you are really doing it for someone else. The Sonex is 6061-T6 which is not as susceptible to corrosion as 2024-T3. So I primed nothing but a few parts I made out of some 7075 I had laying around.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Hi Andrew, Bryan alsways has sound advice
@dan_der_flieger Ай бұрын
I was wondering about Gavin a couple of weeks ago, too, and emailed him. Sounds like he just has a lot of other things going on, but he said he'd try to post something again soon. 🤞
@robertaberle9590 Ай бұрын
Looks great Andy, you are flying right along.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Still a bit to go on the wing, all the wiring and tip, then its deburr and rivets
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
Looks good Andy! I remember cutting those scary holes.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Yes it was a bit overwhelming but got there in the end
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
I'm not sure if youtube will let me post a link to one of Adam's videos, but here is our timelapse of riveting one of the wings together. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpKXgGesh9p9qLc
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Hi Bryan, got it thanks, Adam certainly has grown up since then. Here is my question, as I noticed copper Cleco’s on the LE skin. In the process of upsizing the RHS wing and namely the L.E skin. How do I Cleco it when upsizing using a 7/64, the silvers will go through, but not lock into position. I haven’t done it yet and tried it on a piece of scrap aluminum, and it passes straight through. When dimpled I will assume a copper will then go through as the hole will enlarge after the dimpling and therefore hold the skin against the ribs. Do I drill both ribs and skins separately or opt for a larger drill bit, say a #31 or #32.
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
@@pandyseven Andy, we actually drilled ours up to #30 before dimpling. A copper cleco will barely go in a #32 hole and a #31 is a little better. I think you are going too small. Sonex does not recommend going to #30 before dimpling.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Correct me if I am wrong, but Sonex do not recomend to drill to #30? and you did?
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
@pandyseven correct
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
So if I stick to the 7/64 then I will need to upsize skin and rib seperatly, then dimple both, then reassemble using a copper cleco as the hole will now be larger enough? OR do what you did and upsize now to #30
@TheRealChetManley Ай бұрын
Been following your build off and on for over a year. I love seeing the progress. It's very inspiring. I have about 2 years before I start on my build.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
What are you going to build?
@gonegliding2966 Ай бұрын
Looking good Andy! the art of the double checking procrastination. I get it. An observation here, I notice the canopy open on the fuz. A suggestion, if there's no good reason to have it open, close it. Been a number of glider canopies damaged from the wind slamming a canopy shut with a sizeable repair bill following not to mention many lost hours waiting for the repair to be completed. Keep on posting up, tis looking great!
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
It may be just out of camera angle, but the canopy is tied off to a roof rafter with 2 red nylon straps. I leave it open and subsequently secured off as I constantly am in and out of there as part of the build. Good tip, glad you made it as it will be something I need to be aware of when the aircraft is completed…perhaps a solid rod will need to be manufactured.
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
@@pandyseven You learn to park so the wind will try and blow the canopy open - that way you can have it open when you are getting out. If it's really windy we take turns getting out and holding the canopy when we fly two up. To gonegliding's point, it is fragile when open. Although I don't really worry about it in the shop.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Good advise, can I also not make up some sort of solid arm as a "stay" type device?
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
@@pandyseven Would be a cool idea. If you get one to work out then definitely post it on youtube!
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
I will see if I can come up with something and post it...
@johnjensen2217 Ай бұрын
Well done Andy. The pace of progress seems to have really picked up since you moved to the new shop.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Hi John, Yes progress is going well and really enjoying the wing build and am glad when I finish this one, there’s another to do.
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
Looks good Andy. When we skinned our wings we did the top first, then flipped it over for the bottoms. Something to consider when riveting the nose - the very forward rivets are a pain because the skin wants to spring up. The top is more important for aesthetics and aerodynamics so that is a benefit to riveting the top nose skin first.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Good point, thanks Bryan and guess I can look at riveting topside first. Fwd rivets will be a pain, but the Cleco went in relatively easy, so expect the rivets to do the same.
@dan_der_flieger Ай бұрын
It's looking good! I'm out of town for work again, so I'll have to live vicariously thru your video this week. 😕
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Please let me know your thoughts
@dan_der_flieger Ай бұрын
Looks like your approach is working out. The forward-most holes are a pain. I built a simple fixture from wood that presses the forward skin down against the ribs to hold everything in place before I drilled. It ensured that there was no space between the two (especially those holes closest to the leading edge) that might allow an offset hole if I drilled just slightly at an angle. I drilled the forward skin up to 7/64", too. I think the #31/32 drill bits the plans call for are too big once you dimple the forward skin. 7/64" seems to be the sweet spot where you can still hold everything together with silver clecos before dimpling and copper clecos after dimpling and still have an acceptably tight fit for rivets.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
I am not looking forward to riveting the LE skins and hope I can iron it out flat against the rib, geting good contact for rivet/rib
@bryancotton7279 Ай бұрын
@@pandyseven If you can get a helper for the very last nose rivet that is a real benefit. When we did ours I pushed the skin down hard and Adam set the rivet. We did the top spar to the front, then flipped it over and did the rear spar to the front. Besides that last nose rivet they are really easy and with two people the last one is not bad.
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
sounds like good advise, and will do the same
@jeffbarrett2723 Ай бұрын
hey guy, this Jeff building a xenos b quick build. I'm loving your videos, watching them over and over. just got done riveting glaresheild and test fitting windshield skirt and windshield. that's a pain. slowly step by step. taking a break while brainstorming and also watching and reading about installing windshield. thank you. one day I do a video :)
@pandyseven Ай бұрын
Well Done on your Xenos, hope to see a video and or pictures of your build...what platform are you using for the step by step document..EAA website?
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
I used 1/4" OD Polyethylene Tubing. Found 25ft of it at my local hardware store for about $5. The tube wall is sturdy and i was able to fit all 4 wires for my lights through the tubing. I bumped the mil spec aviation wires up to 18ga (20ga probably would have been fine, but I figured it would be worth the very slight additional weight). No need to increase the size of the holes that are there.
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
I should also mention that I originally had the conduit running through the forward ribs, but later opted to run it through the front tooling holes in the rear ribs to keep them (mostly) away from the aileron controls, while still guaranteeing that there was an opening into the fuselage.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
I have elected to run the cables in the aft ribs
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Probably should have gone to my local hardware to get the tube, but elected to get the same as the Pitot/Static from Aircraft Spruce, that exercise cost me $130 AU…In the short term will use a draw wire as I don’t have my cables for any wiring as yet.
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven ouch. $130 is a lot. Either way, I'm sure it'll turn out great.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
@dan_der_flieger Thanks, Dan. I can only hope
@bryancotton7279 2 ай бұрын
Looking good Andy. On my build, I ran wires in the leading edge. There are three 1/4" tooling holes in the nose ribs and I pulled poly tubing through all three. It would have also worked to upsize one of the tooling holes for bigger tubing. The advantage of wiring in the leading edge instead of the main section behind the spar is cabin access. If you go in the rear you only have the small fuselage hole that you share with the aileron pushrod. Up front there is a lot more room to run that wire out and make the connection. I don't know if the B model plans show opening up the space between the two lightening holes on the root nose rib or not. Most of us have done it to get more room for connecting the flap torque tube to the pushrod. Again, that makes wiring access easy.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hi Bryan, The B does not have an opening forward of the tunnel as does the A, so only the hole for the aileron pushrods. I am still wondering how I get the pitot/static tubing into the cockpit, as there is only a very small space in the tunnel. I know the two mounting blocks on the spars themselves are practically tight against the walls of the tunnel, leaving only around 10mm [ 3/8] or so clearance, from spar thickness to tunnel wall…hope that makes sense? As far as tooling holes in fwd/aft ribs there is only the chord holes, 2 in each rib, so effectively 4 in total. I am planning to open the aft chord hole to the bushing size same as for the pitot/static and use a similar tubing size.
@bryancotton7279 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven Interesting, I didn't realize the B model flaps were so much different. I see now that there is a flap torque tube behind the seatback bulkhead/framework. I'd ask Sonex how to route wires and the pitot static lines into the cockpit, if it's not in the plans.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
I guess my best bet is to check with Gavin, he is at that stage ...almost
@I_hate_cats 2 ай бұрын
Perfect balance of music and narration. Thanks! She’s looking good, sir!
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Thank you kindly!
@JoeyWebber955 2 ай бұрын
I love seeing progress in all the plane builds I follow .
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
we as builders 100% agree with you on that one
@JoeyWebber955 2 ай бұрын
@ til I can start building my own ,,,,, people like myself get to live through the things you share .
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hang in there Joey, it will happen one day.
@JamesGill-c9f 2 ай бұрын
Airplane building music sucks!!!
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
There was a software update so this posting was all over the place. Can you be specific, was it the music as in my choice that just sucked, or the volume levels, hope the latter? I am trying my best to get all aspects right
@josephmufdi4564 2 ай бұрын
I have a mental "semetry" issue, so I love your panel.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hi Joseph, I must say I am like you, " symmetry" is everthing to me.
@justaguy4788 2 ай бұрын
music is very distracting, and too loud. really interested but cannot watch due to that
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Sorry about the volume levels. There was a software update and hadn’t realized it was those levels until I posted it. I will endeavor to get it better in the future
@therbak4751 2 ай бұрын
It looks so good! The new shop looks like a very nice upgrade. It's Coming along very nicely.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Thanks, and am very happy with the space, but it has filled up very quickly, and doesn’t feel as big anymore
@I_hate_cats 2 ай бұрын
If you’re talking can you please turn down or turn off the music? I use headphones and it’s brutal. This video I had to just skip through it
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
you are 100% right, and my only defence is the software I use did an update to v. 2025, and it was so hard to get used to. It was only when I uploaded to KZbin released the volume levels were way different to what I thought they were-My fault and will endeavour to fix it for next time.
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
I'm working on my left wing right now and just drilled the pilot holes into the ribs and front spar - pretty much right where you are. I'm not doing a video for this one - just want to enjoy working on the plane. I think your jig is nice and should work for this portion of the build, but you're probably going to need to change it once you have both of your skins attached. I did something similar and ended up having to come up with a way to suspend the wing with the skins attached so I could ensure it was straight all the way through final riveting. I might recommend not up-drilling the skin/rear spar holes until last. That way you have just a little wiggle room to make sure it's all straight before locking it into shape forever.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Great advice and will take it on board. You’re right about the jig, and have already looked ahead that the way I have done it possible wont work when inverted, but will see this weekend.
@JoeyWebber955 2 ай бұрын
Coming along very nicely .
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Yes, getting there...I am always nervous when I start a new section if the build
@justaguy4788 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven why did you choose blinds for the ribs instead of solid?
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Blind rivets is how the aircraft was designed, solids are only in the main spar and on the windscreen 'bow'
@justaguy4788 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven wonder if they did it for weight
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
I dont belive so, I would guess it is for the ease of building...its faster and takes only one person to do? solid riverts require more expierence....
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
Nice one Andy! I like that drill guide. I might need to buy one myself!
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Yes, they are a very handy tool. I try to use a bench drill or pillar drill in most cases, this tool I use if the bench drill is impossible. It’s far better to keep things in line or perpendicular to the surface with your eye, remember my mistake with the ‘Y’ tail spar...
@kyqx 2 ай бұрын
Cool! measure 16 times, drill once:)
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Yes you are correct, and even if I do check 16 times, or 600 in my case I check that one last time, just to be sure
@therbak4751 2 ай бұрын
That drill block looks like a very handy tool. What is it called? I would like to order one myself.
@wallymurray620 2 ай бұрын
Found it on Amazon, Big Gator Tools STD1000DGNP V-Drill Guide,
@therbak4751 2 ай бұрын
@@wallymurray620 thank you!!
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Wally is correct, Big Gator v- drill, I got mine on eBay
@realgonkulator 2 ай бұрын
@@wallymurray620 Thank you - I just ordered one too. WXB0077 got delivered just shy of a month ago, and I'm officially in the, "I'm in over my head" phase
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hi Wally, are you going to video the build on youtube? and what is your method of documenting EAA, builders log? please let me know so i can follow your progress
@bryancotton7279 2 ай бұрын
Looks good! Now you need the traditional picture of you holding up the spar pinned together.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
yest sounds like a plan, will do that and take a snap shot
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
Yep, mine has the lip at the tie down area of the main spar as well. I don't remember needing longer bolts though. And I don't think I added a spacer either. My lip was not very deep at all.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Did you still have 0.32 spacers? on the spar, the ones on the forside of the ribs???
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven yes, there are two spacers - one is 1/8" (center spacer) that fits between the spar caps and another 0.032" (web spacer) that overlaps the 1/8" spacer and the spar caps. Both of those spacers go on the rear side of the main spar/fore side of the aft rib. There are no spacers for the forward ribs.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hi Dan, the reason I ask is I was just trying to establish the major differences between your model of the spar being in the 30's and mine around 35 odd kits after yours. It does appear to be just the aft edge of the main spar aluminium that differs having a larger lip. Obviously, these spar components are cut from a solid piece or pre moulded piece then factory curt to a given specific, mine and now Sonex’s at the factory have the raised lips…hope all that makes sense
@dan_der_flieger 2 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven - yeah, after looking at yours and comparing to what I have, it seems like there is a difference. Not sure if the spars are extruded aluminum that's machined or if they're molded?? My guess is the former. Seems like it would be a lot easier (in terms of scale) to extrude several lengths and machine off what you don't need than to pour melted metal into molds and remove parts one at a time.
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Mine are machined from what I would assume is an extrusion, that extrusion is just that little bit heigher than yours I guess...
@robertaberle9590 3 ай бұрын
I’m starting my Waiex B wings as well. Looking forward to hear what Sonex says about the tie down fitting and possible filing or adding a shim.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Hope you do well with your wings, would be nice to see a video series of your build??? Sonex replay was to keep it as I have done it with the 0.63 packer, and larger bolts. Chris from Sonex said their spars are the same, and they do what I have done. How are your spars? same as mine?
@robertaberle9590 3 ай бұрын
@@pandyseven Yes, my spars have the same raised edge as you show on the video. I am looking at the plans numerous times before I start drilling holes in the spar and attach blocks. Just a little nervous I guess. Thank you for your videos. They are super helpful. I may do a few videos of my build as well.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
It would be nice to see other builders such as you do a build series of their build. It is very helpfull to us all-send some pictures?
@robertaberle9590 2 ай бұрын
Hello Andy, have you gotten to page WXB-W08? Step 9 in general construction order states to complete drilling through both blocks while spars are mated, then to install the rig plates XNS-W40-21. My question is should we drill through both left and right attach blocks now or wait. Some suggest waiting until rigging the wings to the fuselage. Just curious if you have formed a plan. I like your engineering and thought process. Rob
@pandyseven 2 ай бұрын
Hi Robert, I am unsure if it would make that much difference to wait until rigging? The objective is to have the wing spars together to firstly match what Sonex have done at the factory, that is the 3 holes you align. This you can successfully do outside the aircraft with clamps prior to rigging and allows you to complete the wing rig plates. When rigging you will need the forward spar tunnel in place so as to align the 3 holes in the aft tunnel and in the forward tunnel ‘Z’. The forward tunnel Z is going to be one hard thing to do, especially when riveting the plates at the fuselage upright angle and most of the riveting will have to be done inside the aircraft I believe. Anyway, so to look at this objectively if you drill all the way through now, you will have that alignment with the pins or bolts completed of which you can check outside the aircraft. Then when you get to rigging and eventually install the forward tunnel ‘Z” all you have left is to run the drill through the spars and into both forward and aft reinforcement plates that are attached to the spar tunnels. If you left the forward tunnel off and used the spar holes as a guide you will be able to drill backwards towards the rear spar tunnel, thus successfully keeping that hole in alignment with what you have done in the spars. Then run to drill forward back through the rear spar holes that are now up drilled back through the mated spars [ already upsized] then through the forward spar tunnel ‘z’ giving you a better way to keep in alignment. So, if all this makes sense, this to me sounds like a better way to do it., buts as always, I am still going through this in my head. It’s a great question and I will be up to this part on the weekend so will cover it in my next video due in a weeks’ time.
@russellesimonetta9071 3 ай бұрын
The wings will be fun. The engine could be a pain in the keaster! I seen where guys building the aerovee have been driven crazy with the push rods. I think Gavin found after market push rods for VW engines worked really well.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
I will more than likely be traveling down the same path as Gavin with the push rods but will just wait until I cross that bridge. I know it must work with the rods supplied, or they wouldn’t supply them? So will just work on the err of caution, and want to ensure if I do travel down the path of a new rod, doubly ensure I buy the correct ones..
@bryancotton7279 3 ай бұрын
Building the AeroVee was probably the easiest part of the project. I used the stock pushrods. At about 280 hours I noticed one was failing on one of the edges, and I replaced it.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Hi Bryan, probaly why I will keep the stock push rods at this satge as I know they have to work if Sonex are still suppling them...
@andrewschmidt5312 3 ай бұрын
Really liked the spar model. Great visual demo and made what you were doing very clear - to me at least.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Thanks for that, believe it or not it helped me also
@wallymurray620 3 ай бұрын
New shop looks great, lots of light. And yea, the jig you made up for the instrumentation is a wonderful idea to make up a nice neat installation a lot easier than crawling around and in the plane itself.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
The Jig basically created itself in the end as I intended just to do a 2-dimensional setup on a flap board or something like that, that seems to be the way most do it, then it developed into the shape it is now. Better to fault find standing up than to crawl in a tight space
@dan_der_flieger 3 ай бұрын
Nice job Andy! I hadnt thought about doing a mock up - that should save you some frustration when you move everything over and all of the wiring fits perfectly. I bet it's nice to have the extra space to be able to do that now. The shed look really nice.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Long way to go yet on the wiring but overall it is starting to make some sence..
@JoeyWebber955 3 ай бұрын
Great idea on the mock up . Save you getting in and out of the plane a few hundred times .
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
I can’t take the credit for the idea; it was the guys from MGL. And yes, it is hard to get in and out of this plane, I pity those that are a taller and wider
@bryancotton7279 3 ай бұрын
Looks great Andy! I did something similar to wire my panel and headset jacks on the bench. Not as nice or elaborate though. I also ran wires either along the path of the rudder cables, or down below. Worked well. Leave both floors off for as long as possible! I have a dual stick cockpit and have a disconnect for the PTT button on both sticks. That's handy when the airplane is together, in case I need to get under the panel I remove a stick. I'll have to send you pictures of my cylinder head cooling fin cleanup and baffle modifications - something I think should be mandatory.
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Thanks Bryan, those pictures will be great for reference...It's always hard to know when to close up and rivet off, and always knew I would leave this area ( cockpit) clecoed until finished...that's why the fuselage is still off, including underside off main fuselage...can you also send some pictures of the throttle and how you reversed it..Regards
@kyqx 3 ай бұрын
It's great to see all your progress, Andy!
@pandyseven 3 ай бұрын
Thanks Kip...