Thank you John, your kind words put a little lift in my step. Cheers. George F.

It always brightens my day to learn that a video was helpful. Thank you for posting your comment.

Thank you for saying so. Cheers. GF

Powerful endorsement! Thank you.

Glad to have helped. Thanks for mentioning it David.

Cool formula, but it's misapplied. You see me when I make KZbin videos, but not when I'm actually working in my shop.

Can't argue with that!

Thanks Mat, great to hear from a fellow fan of science!

Agreed. Don't operate equipment with loose clothing. But dress as you wish when explaining stuff.

Josh, you made me LOL. Thanks for commenting out loud.

That's neat! If I do this regularly, then a big board with an array of nail holes might simulate your method for someone without an mft surface. Thanks for the idea!

Hey Bill, Thanks to your appeal, I began work on a video on the principles of making a tool board. What I imagined would be a little tidying became a shop overhaul, and thus made me put that video on ice for now. Thank you for welcoming me back to KZbin!

Well George, I will be waiting on pins and needles for the tool wall video because I’ve been wanting to do the same thing for getting my shop organized!

Also George, I’m still in the process of setting up my workshop(over the trucker so not a lot of time at home!)so I was wondering if you could do a video on how you decided to lay out your shop and why?! Kind of a shop tour to let me know what worked and what didn’t to keep me from making the same mistakes?! Also just curious how your shop is arranged Thanks bill!

@@billtodd6745 Hey Bill. My shop is the last thing you'd want to model after. Its design style is opportunistic, so wherever there was room for something, it got shoved there. Not much sense to that way of doing things. I'm actually now trying to get out from under myself. I did make a couple of good decisions though. They would be easy enough to describe in writing, so I'll do that here: 1) Set your workbench with access on all four sides, ie not against a wall. 2) When at the workbench, the side I'm usually at, the toolboard is right behind me. 3) Tools used often are as close as possible -- I'm getting better at putting them back instead of letting them pile up on the bench. 4) If possible heights of tables (workbench, downdraft, assembly etc.) should be 1/4 inch or so lower than your table saw. They can double as infeed or outfeed surfaces. 5) See if putting your table saw at an angle gives you better infeed and outfeed distance. If your space is small, consider outfeeding to an open door. 6) At the table saw, face doors through which people enter the shop. In other words orient the saw so that you can see entrances while sawing. You don't want to be startled while working the saw. 7) Back tools against each other. Example, the drill press and bandsaw are backed against each other. Also, since I have jackposts in my shop, my bandsaw and drillpress are backed against one of them. 8) You will want a cross cut sled. Resist the urge to make it so big that it can handle anything you can imagine. Generally I do that for all my jigs; I make them just good enough to handle the task at hand, or maybe it and another common task. But I never make them sophisticated so they can handle everything. If I think of any other "gems" I'll write again.

Thanks for the quick response! Awesome ideas, I can already see where I can incorporate several of ideas! Thanks sooo much! Hopefully I can work on my shop some this weekend!

Thanks for the welcome-back Woody. Funny, I was so eager to try the method that I fumbled the order of the panels, so I blew the grain continuity at the corners. Oh well.

@@georgefouriezos8863 Oh, well 😂

Hi James, I think that's so. See my reply to timbering on why I couldn't use tape. I'm now eager to repeat the four-nails method to see if it is reliable. Thanks for pointing out a benefit I missed.

It didn't occur to me at the time, but in this instance I would not have been able to use outside tape. The reason is I had an outer bulge in the panels the plan being later to shape the outside into a gentle curve. I'm now curious about whether tape or four-nails is the more efficient method for flat panels.

@@georgefouriezos8863 Probably the difference in efficiency of each way depends on the amount of packing tape and rubber bands one has in the shop :)

It humbles me that my absence was noticed. Great to hear from you Mark, and looking forward to your next KZbin contribution.

Thank you for saying so!

I had a fifth nail in the original, between the two close to me. I thought when unhooking the far nails, the box would be pulled back, and so Nail #5 would act as a stop. But no, the rubber band that was still hooked on its nails near me stopped the box. So I pulled Nail #5. This little nothing of a fixture punched three classes above its weight. So simple, yet so effective. Thanks for your comment Timothy.

My greatest stress sessions have been over gluing mitres. And this easy, little, zero-cost, no precision fixture took it all away. Thank you for writing your endorsement archi.

I'm glad to hear the video was useful. Thank you bomberita for letting me know.

Hi David, Thanks for your positive comment. I see that lately there are a few versions of clamping cauls available for purchase. Good idea, me thinks. And of course, building them yourself, also a good idea.

No, it is exceptional. But it is not because of the shop. It's because KZbin.

You're most welcome, Camishafi1, thank you for the kind thoughts in your comment.

Hey Bill, always good to hear from you. Far from being annoying, your messages are inspiring me to return to KZbin. I'm not sure if I've said this before but it is increasingly difficult to come up with original material in woodworking that hasn't been published a dozen times. There is a worthwhile topic I'm considering and expect to publish it before March is done. I will dedicate the video to you. It will be double-themed: Tool Board Principles and Helpful 3D Printers. Thank you Bill.

Awesome! Sounds great, thanks George!

True, but c'mon Black, take another look. There is no fence beside the blade, not on its right nor on its left. The wooden half-fence stops before the blade, and the wedge-splitter (which is in line with the blade anyway) begins after the blade. Semi-colon.

Hi Brian, Turns out the adapter is home-brewed 3D print. I can send you the .stl if it can be of any use but the adapter's dimensions are tailored to my tiny shop vac. If you have the same vac and access to a 3D printer, it would work.

I thought that might be the case. I have a small 3d printer. I'll work on a custom one. Thanks for the info! @@georgefouriezos8863

Hi Doug, I'm very happy to hear the magnets were a better solution for you. Note that loose magnets dragging on the wood will stain it. One solution, once the perfect adjustment has been found, is to epoxy the magnets in place. Thank you for the positive feedback!

Thanks for your kind words, Carrie. Be sure to see Keith Clague's comments -- safety improvements on the basic design. Best of luck with your build!

@@georgefouriezos8863 I made this, and it is truly the absolute BEST thin rips jig ever! Thanks again!

@@carriep7812Thanks Carrie, I really appreciate your encouraging feedback. Best success in all your woodworking!

Hi Keith, For what it's worth, the flanges and couples are still holding up, several years now. A couple of the brackets (of 12) holding the rubber garbage can to its plywood flange broke over the years. Are you tempted by 3D printing? It's a great woodshop asset.

Thank you for your endorsement David. Best, George F.

Applehash -- I mean Archi -- I remember you! Wonderful to hear from you. Yes, I have gone into the 3D Printing rabbit hole, but easily 9 prints of every 10 serve the woodshop. And the remainder are practical household items (like the 110 mL scoop that measures the morning's ground coffee). I trust you're keeping well and are actively enjoying your time in the woodshop. Best to you, George F. (OK, Four)

Ah - wonderful to 'chat' George - will have to check your coffee scoop video! Have a great day in the shop buddy! @@georgefouriezos8863

I'm right with you on a push stick, Hu. I'm less in favour of feather board on the left. Here's why: One of the features of this rig is that the fence does not need to be re-positioned between rips. If there were a feather board on the left, it would have to be snugged into place after each rip, so that would remove one of the selling points of the overall rig. But, yes, a push stick, absolutely! Thank you for commenting, your ideas, and your kind words!

That's true. The only advantage to having a base plate is that the setting stays as it was between uses.

Thank you for the endorsement, Jamalama.

Hi Bob, thanks for telling me about your modification. I can see the advantages right away. For one, you retain a max height cut since your workpiece rides on the table surface. For another the jig is compact. Clamping to the fence is firmer than hanging clamps at the edges of the table. The only feature you would be giving up without a mitre runner is that the setting would not be kept from one use to next if you removed the jig. But then, I can picture a version that both attaches to the fence and has a runner for the mitre slot. Thanks for telling me about your design. I like it! A lot.

Hi Mike, Thanks for understanding; the tie is for making videos. You wouldn't want to see what I wear when actually working in the shop!

True that!

I recommend you do not. Put on a tie to make videos, but not to work in a shop.

Thanks William. Watch out for magnets dragging across the wood, they will leave a dark stain in time. I now epoxy them in place so they're not in contact with wood.

I will certainly keep that in mind. Thanks again! @@georgefouriezos8863

Hi Bob, Thanks so much for your kind words. I'm impressed by your thorough review of all the comments! Any questions, I should be able to answer by the next day's morning. Best, GF.

Hi Charles, Not to worry, the tie is only for making videos, never for actually working in the shop. As replied to concerned others, you don't want to see what I wear working in the shop. Best, George.

LOL. Thanks Goodie, I would use a riving knife but I routinely use 7-1/4" blades in my cabinet saw, so workpieces would catch on the original riving knife.

@@georgefouriezos8863 I have complete confidence in your safety routines, just something to tease you with ;-). Great video's btw. I'm learning a lot.

Hi Goodie, No, it's as I thought, your comment was a teasing endorsement, not a criticism. Great to have you on board!

Hi Will, Thanks for your question and endorsement. I get mine from Lee Valley Tools, chosen for its quality and convenience (as it's nearby). The ones in the video were cylinders 1/4 inch in diameter and height, corresponding to about 6 mm. One thing to watch out for: The magnets that drag across the wood will stain it. So once the right height (depth) has bee set, epoxy or crazy-glue them in place. Bye and warm regards.

Thanks Rick. Good to know there are healthy attitudes out there!

Izzy Swan has a really good way of ripping thin stock that has all the features one usually needs.

Hi Daniel, Thanks for your concern, but my tie and loose shirt have had to to deal with the operation of a camera, lights, and tripod, all of which have been safe.

Thank you Jonathan for putting me wise to the files' disappearance. The site was not "removed by the authors" but it clearly was removed. I suppose 000webhost changed its income policy. I will post the relevant files to printables.com, sometime before October 2023. Thanks again for the heads-up!

Hi again Jonathan. I migrated the files to printables.com. You can get mine to come up first (I think) by searching with "disk storage for". While there you'll see lots of others' contributions too. Thanks for the heads-up about my original post having been removed.

It's not hard to find your submissions - I'm one of your followers!

Désolé, mon français n'est pas assez bon pour être exposé au public.

But I understand the tie is safe when using a camera and tripod.