Yes the statesman dual carb head was aluminum Carter YF carbs (or YH) Ambassador was side draft, Statesman downdraft

@@JessicaCotter you’re welcome!

@@jetdavid8237 making the videos is fun, but I’ve been busy lately with too many projects. Also a friend of mine was the one who would edit the videos together for me, but he doesn’t really enjoy it. I’m trying to finish up some things I’ve been working on and would like to keep on posting videos in the future!

@@xoxo98808 you’re very welcome!

@@bobc.5698 it was basically a sponge with fabric sewn around it, came with the kit.

@@jonathanhermis1929 sounds good! I don’t think the distance would make a difference. Some things to consider might be compressor size, greater displacement seems best. Does the evaporator pull air from inside the car (like recirculate) and not hot air from the trunk? Heat transfer of the condenser is also critical, bigger is better with as much airflow as possible.

@@rustyoldchevy1149 I figured out the issue.. I called vintage air and they told me to only put 24 to 28 ounces of freon into the system... They said 200PSI on the high side is about where i need to be and 26 psi on the low side.. My problem is I had it overfilled. I was making the mistake of reading the charts online. Vintage air said Sanden type compressor are completely different than factory compressors.. And the charts online or most of them are for factory compressors.. And he was right.. I removed freon and brought it down to 200 psi high side and 26 low side.. COLD AIR NOW.... However my clutch fried. Makes a grinding noise when it engages.. If I let the system cool down for about an hour and recrank the car and turn system on it will engage.. Turn it off to simulate a clutch turning on and off or cycling it immediately starts grinding and wont lock in place.. So I either have a bad clutch or the clutch doesn't like 6 volts.. I have a 6v to 12v module I use for my 8 track player.. Temporarily ran it to the clutch and fed it 12 volts and still grinds and wont engage... So I am wondering if the clutch doesn't like 6 volts or am I ok to swap out and still use 6 volts.. Would hate for this to happen again and I loose freon lol...

@@rustyoldchevy1149 Also I cannot find anymore of those 6v positive ground to 12v adapters... Mine is a little silver box I bought off of ebay a few years back.. Cannot find anyone who sells them anymore... Would be nice to have a spare one... If you saw this system I have its a frankenstein unit... I bought a regular evaporator with 4 2" outputs on the front, the standard one you see on amazon for retros.. Mounted that on a piece of wood and mouting it just below my package tray in the trunk.. Made a package tray with 2 of the vents vintage air sells for rear air vent louvers.. Ran flexible hoses from the evaporator to (4) bilge blowers to push more air forward.. Ran the power to these bilge blowers through a variable motor controller to adjust the speed and ran the wiring up front under the dash adjacent to my temp/on/off switch for the evaporator.. But before it gets to the variable speed controller its ran through a 40 amp 12volt relay to handle the amperage load.. Fused of course.. Essentially your normal green wire that comes out of the evap to trigger your clutch or condensor fan is ran through the pressure switch and powers three relays.. One for the ac clutch to trigger the 6 volts to the clutch, one for the condensor fan, and one for the pusher/bilge blowers.. The 12 volt side is ran off of lithium phosphate batteries...All of this you gave me from your idea of making this work with 6 volt positive ground and I just went from there.. Appreciate the guidance.....

@@jonathanhermis1929 ok might check the air gap on the compressor clutch and be sure it’s in spec. Other than that the Charging system might not be 100% and a 6 volt alternator is the way I would have gone if I could have with my Nash.

@@rustyoldchevy1149I checked the air gap it’s within sanden specs. Replaced the compressor and bought a 6v to 12v step up transformer and it works thankfully since the clutch is just a coil. Just not cooling like it should. I am wondering if heat transfer might be my problem. Everything I am doing is in my Texas garage and it’s 104 in here with the fan blowing. Unfortunately the only spot to mount the compressor was coming off of the alternator bracket and that alternator bracket is attached to the lower manifold. Yes not sure why Plymouth/mopar did that back in the day. After running for awhile the heat does transfer from manifold to alternator and the compressor through the medal. However I see these are designed to run in high heat so not sure that’s a problem. Just scratching my head on this one. I am using a parallel flow confessor that’s mounted underneath the car slightly tilted. Maybe that’s causing a restriction. However I do see flow and stream through the drier sight glass. System has been flushed. There is enough oil in system. I noticed you did say recirculated air to evaporator in trunk. I do have a vent I cut in through the package tray. It’s not connected to the evaporator but just pulling some air from inside the cabin to the trunk. Yeah I thought about that too. Warm trunk air pulling through the evaporator. Maybe this is why the trunk systems are not as common as the front mount ones. Only reason I went this route is because I have the from air vent louver in the center underneath dashboard and my 8 track player. Just hate modifying original. Maybe driving at highway speed will create enough airflow underneath and through motor to cool things down. I must say though it’s only blowing around 60 through the rear air vents and it’s 90 in the car. Just doesn’t seem correct even at idle. I give up lol. I have three other classics I have systems on and no issues on those.

@@rigakit when he bought the part I popped the new one in 🤷‍♂️it was an easy fix.

@@richardunicorn7879 I agree! Thanks!

This one has a bit over 60,000 miles. As a general rule with cars this old I would expect 100,000 before a rebuild, but oils have improved dramatically since then so a rebuild would likely last longer now.

And how long does that take to do? I've got the 5.43 velvend my 2006.. And I get the ticking sound the first couple minutes at start up. Serious question how long all I have is basic tools and sausage fingers.... And my knees are aren't that good so I can't be kneeling on the ground. But I do have all basic tools SAE and metric size And how do you get the roller followers out can you just use a screwdriver and poke them out?

its called "aircraft paint remover". I bought it at my local auto parts store.

I swapped out the cam follower at a later date, after he ordered the parts. Only required a screwdriver no special tool.

@@rustyoldchevy1149after you swapped out the cam follower, did it fix the problem? Was it only that one follower that was making the sound?

@@HPX584 it was the only source of the sound, so it fixed the problem and stayed quiet since the cam was still in good shape.

@@rustyoldchevy1149 was it the rocker arm that you replaced or cam phaser?

@@HPX584 the ticking sound was the cam follower, the phaser makes a lower knocking sound