There’s a bolt on top then 2 Phillips head screws on the side. Should just slide right off

Agreed 🤯

This invoice say

Sorry this invoice also says it was discounted 225.80.

Definitely a lot of options 😎

Unfortunately I dont. But glad you liked the video and thank you for watching!

I use two stroke fuel.

That’s so awesome!! Glad you got it up and running 👍🏼

That adjustable needle valve is so helpful

Online or through a distributor

Thank you for watching!

Check to make sure gas isn’t pouring into the oil through the carburetor. Sometimes the float needle can get stuck open, and the gravity from the gas tank will allow the fuel to consistently overflow in through the intake and into the crank case.

Thank you! I remember making this video well. I appreciate the kind words 👍🏼

To take a look at it, but I believe the dipstick tube just pulls out and you can change the O-ring/grommet. Double check to make sure there is not a bolt or screw holding the dipstick tube up near the top before removal

@@ChrisXOutdoors Nope its leaking from the bottom of the dipstick near the base. Only while running. Based on the manual i see an o ring under the oil fill tube. very confused on this one and can't find a def video on this

Often times there is an O-ring around the bottom of the dipstick tube. Can you not just pull it out? The dipstick tube?

@@ChrisXOutdoorsdoesn’t look like it, might be a bolt or something I’m not seeing. Would upload a pic I have but comments won’t allow me

@TomNeeley [email protected]

I would have loved to but unfortunately I do not have the chipper anymore. I’m so sorry

That’s a bummer. Unrepairable?

I have tried repairing the posts (what you are describing) about 3 or 4 different times when that has happened to me and none of them have been successful. JB weld, regular welding. It’s just a mess. I’m sorry you’re dealing with that. You can try to repair, but it’s such a sensitive area with very little surface area to work with on what broke off so it’s a tough one.

Interesting. Is there any apparent damage to any of the moving parts beginning from the Governor arm all the way to the butterfly plates at the carburetor. I’d check over all of that first.

I verificated all movable part and is fine , only I see the rod spring is It has a little old and I can't tell if the tension is okay my spring and carburator is same in you video ....and I can say the engine on fine but I see that it does not reach the high revolution

You can adjust the Governor arm to allow more tension on the spring bringing the rpm’s up. Where the Governor spring pivots from coming out of the engine, you can use a pair of pliers and bend the Governor arm in the opposite direction and it should do the trick. Less is more. You can always keep adjusting more and more until you find a sweet spot. You should also be able to bend it back the original way if you go too far. Make sure the pliers grab it near the bottom where it comes in contact with the Governor post coming out of the engine. Hope that helps!

OK thank you Chris ..I will check tomorrow

Thank you Chris I resolved my problem and my lawn mower work fine ....Thank you for all

It should do the trick. If not, you might have to pull the carb off and give it a thorough cleaning. Thank you for watching and keep me updated on how the seafoam goes!

I’d start with checking to make sure nothing is getting hung up with the linkages (the rod that is connecting the lever with the carburetor). Sounds like something might be wrong with that

Ask your friend about installing an impeller kit. They are little rubber flaps added onto to the impeller. Makes such a difference in performance and they are fairly inexpensive.

Agreed. Love the older stuff so much

Sounds like the mixture is definitely off. There’s a video on KZbin by Steve’s Small Engine Salloon on adjusting a 2 cycle fuel mixture. It’s great and he explains everything

@@ChrisXOutdoors thanks for the advice, will definitely check it out!

Great point. I should get in the habit of doing that for everything I work on. Typically I only reserve it for things that are in rough condition.

lol

Probably something with the output. I’d check what’s coming out of it first with the multimeter and go from there

Agreed! 😎

Yes for the little bit I used it, it worked great!

Could be a host of different things. Sometimes when I think something is going to be super complicated, it turns out to not be. And sometimes the opposite is true, I think it’s going to be a breeze and it turns into a nightmare lol

@@ChrisXOutdoors after further inspection.. it's the valve spring retaining cap that broke. Unfortunately the fix is a valve job. Wish me luck. It's my first time

Good luck with it. Hopefully you can get it going!

They are great machines! They last FOREVER. Especially if maintained properly

@@ChrisXOutdoors Yes Agreed!!!!

Fantastic machines aren’t they?

@@ChrisXOutdoors yes sir

Do it! It will be a great project and one that you will remember forever 👍🏼

If the engine is running way above rpm wide open, something internally is messed up. Doesn’t sound like that is your issue. I’d check the linkages where the Governor and carb are connected and make sure nothing is hung up. Sometimes that will happen and affect the Governor arm. Keep me updated

There is an engine pan gasket.. also a crankshaft seal. It could be one of those 2. Both need the engine pulled off and split apart to replace. It’s not the most complicated thing to do but I’d definitely try to check out a couple KZbin videos on it. 1. To see if that might possibly align with the issue you’re having and 2. to make sure it is something you’d be confident doing. Keep me updated and let me know how it turns out

@@ChrisXOutdoors the oil sump isn't simply bolted on? The case needs to be split?

Engine needs to be unbolted from the frame, removed and set upside down (carefully). Make sure to drain all oil first. Engine sump can then be unbolted and removed (or split) from the crankcase. The crankshaft seal is also located on the bottom of the engine sump pan.

@@ChrisXOutdoors Thank you for your reply Chris.

Everything turned out great. Replaced the sump seal and no more oil leak. Thanks again Chris.

Pump pistons might be doing something funky. Connect some water to it and before you pull the cord, press the nozzle trigger. Sounds like you have built up pressure in the wand and it should shoot a small pressurized bit out. From there, you should be able to pull it over

Exhaust issues?

@@ChrisXOutdoors nope just loud. I think it's normal. I need some ear plugs.

For tires like this, I support it. As long as you are careful it’s not as dangerous as if you were trying to do it on an auto tire or something like that.

@@ChrisXOutdoors thanks for replying.

You should be good to put the Governor arm back on and follow the steps in the video. The Governor post can only rotate so much inside of the engine so if the arm goes back on, you should be able to get it back to its original state if you follow the steps in the video

@@ChrisXOutdoors Thanks for your help. I think I got it. I have a briggs and Stratton 675 series 190cc push mower, and it looks to have the same lever setup on the same side of the engine as your craftman, and the same setup with the carburetor etc. I figured by your video that I must turn it counterclockwise as well. The thing that has me doubting is that I found a video showing how to change the governor lever on a briggs and stratton engine (not my exact model even though it's a briggs) and it states to turn the mounting post CLOCKWISE before tightening the lever to the post. The lever setup to the carb on that engine in the video seems to be different than our setups, but I don't know if that matters or if all the briggs engines turn the lever mounting post in the same direction. I emailed them to see if I can get a response. I don't know if I can post the video link so you can watch a few seconds of it and let me know what your thoughts are depending on what you see on the lever setup in the video? I don't want to put a link in this comment and then have YT remove it. The name of the vid is: *Briggs & Stratton Small Engine Replace Governor Lever Part # 590520* It's only 30 seconds if you begin watching it at minute 3:20 through minute 3:51 as this is where it shows the installation of the lever.

True 😂