kzbin.info/www/bejne/opLXdJqQZceMm9U Have a look at my other video, it explains this issue. Thanks for watching.

@@halimdollah9720 kzbin.info/www/bejne/opLXdJqQZceMm9Usi=k-VoGvq0pnTSsl5V have a look at this extended video that I produced. It explains where the power comes from. Thanks for watching.

Check that there are not a couple of countersunk screws holding it in. And soak the area around the studs and hub with WD40 for about 30 mins or longer? And use a bigger hammer on the edge of the disk! That is what I’d try?

Thank you for the tip.

@doc1701 Thank you.... you are very kind.

Thank you..... it is still working after quite a bit of use! But I have the new one now too.

thanks very much.

Thank you for the kind comments.

Thank you , that is good advice.

Thank you.

Thanks for the kind words.... It's great to hear someone make a comment like yours and it is encouraging to get some feedback. I have another idea for the top cross slide that does not involve welding, making it more suited to someone who does not have a welder.

Hi Stuart, I’m glad that the MGB is going well and that you are tidying it up a bit….wrt the speedo, It may be worth adjusting the needle back about 5 to 7 mph? It should always over-read about 10%.

Hi and thanks for your support and kind comments. I’m still working on part two to the backlash problem, and I think that I may have a solution. The leadscrew size is a problem! It is not a standard size, and I have not found a match. I have bought a T14x3 leadscrew with a nut. But they are right hand threads which means the handle rotation is reversed. I am not too concerned about that, but I can see others may not like it. But my first trial is to make a new leadscrew nut. (I’m calling it my ‘Frankenstein Leadscrew Nut’). I hope to publish that one soon. I’d like to see how you tackled the backlash issue?

Hi, I went down a similar path modifying the thread and nut from a scissor jack unfortunately like your experience the thread was in the opposite direction. Plan B, I then drilled and part tapped a hole into the original brass nut so it exited between threads. I then measured and found a ball bearing that would sit about a third into the thread of the cross slide screw to take up the slack and put a spring behind that secured in with a grub screw. I then adjusted the gib strip to take out any play with the cross slide. It is a bit of a botch but it has held up well for the last six months while I find a better solution (or a better lathe) I will say however, I really like this lathe as it is far from perfect but it has served me well. You may find a serial number on yours on the end of the flat slide way which may give you a better idea of . Also on the back of cross slide thread there should be a finger nut that when locked in pushes a tapered spacer into place allowing auto feed on your cross slide. I saw you were removing the rear cover but did not see the finger nut. Hope this helps

@writerjmd hi and thanks for watching. It is a long time since I had my speedo apart. I think it was a rubber spacer or something to stop the chassis of the internal working from rubbing on the case.

@@Madeinwem Thanks. What's left of mine was hard and crumbling. I think I will make one out of a toolbox drawer liner. That should be about the same thickness. Your video was helpful because I could freeze it and see what shape it was supposed to be. Thank you.

Thank you....

@fretman8379 Thank you, that's very kind..... can you send a picture?

Thank you for the message Karl.... when mine went wrong the first time, I had some success with the hammer....lol. it was the only way I could get home before I could investigate!

Thanks for noticing. I've been on holiday to Corfu.

The title of the video says "repair" not replacement, lets wait for part 2 and then you can judge.

That is not correct. The travel is not affected because of the length of the compound tool post. Also, it is almost impossible to get a replacement part for an 83 year old Mellor Lathe.

Hi Tech. This pressure sensor is from a Triumph Spitfire. The car dates from the 60s to the 80s and did not have an ECU. The sensor was a pure switch. With no pressure (Engine off, ignition on) the switch was closed, and the current would flow and illuminate the light. And with oil pressure, when the engine is running, the switch would open, and the light would go out. I hope this helps?

Thank you for the complement Nigel. Unfortunately I do not have the original part 3 anymore. Sorry.

I'm really sorry about the recording quality....... If I'd known how popular it was going to be, I'd heave saved the original.

@@Madeinwem no worries mate. I will add some ‘Dutch courage’ before I begin in November or so. And I have ‘lived’ with this current condition since….ehrrr…2003! :-)

Gracias Señor

Thank you Rusty....

LOL - Thanks for your comment..... I'd rather keep all my fingers though, so it's staying.......

Thank you, you are very kind. I've just posted part two.

Hi Wayne, I'll see if I can find a link and send it to you...

@@Madeinwem excellent thank you😉👍

@RustyInventions-wz6ir That's very nice of you to say so..... thank you. I'm in the process of completing the next instalment.

Thanks Eric. Much appreciated.

Good tip .... thank you.

Thank you.

I've just viewed one of the videos on the Atlas, really worthwhile! thank you for the tip.

The extra set of pulleys you showed backwards. The small pulley on the back set should line up with the large pulley on the lathe, this will give you multiple speeds. It should also be much easier to setup without building a bracket to mount the motor on top. If you eliminate the extra pulleys you will have to install a variable frequency drive to change speeds.

@@mattgill6676 Thanks for the feedback it’s much appreciated.

@@mattgill6676 I have a plan to move the motor longitudinally along the motor mount to engage different pulleys.

There is a pin in the biggest gear on the lathe, pull that out when the back gear is engaged and you will see what it does.

Thanks for the explanation and feedback it’s much appreciated.

Hi Gary, thanks for the kind comment. On the split part, there was a part number. I then used google to search for the part. My part came from the UK.

@@Madeinwem Thank you mate.

Finally I have fixed my K7, I opened the cover and found that the cylinder head recoil tube was broken, no more leaking after the part replacement. 🎉🎉🎉

Try this one..... kzbin.info/www/bejne/opLXdJqQZceMm9U