Thanks 🤙🏼

I will add pictures of the first session with this longboard as as we get some waves 🕺🏻

Yes mate 🤙🏼 it really works great and fairly simple

It called the "Lap Master" a guy I used to buy stuff from design and printed it with 3D printer, he doesn't do that anymore 🤨 Brilliant tool 🤙🏼

Thanks 🙏🏽

I always use matte finish, if i want my board to gloss i do a gloss coat and sanding up to higher grit + water paper up to 3000 + polish

🤙🏼

@@jomosky good question,based on my experience this epoxy pour is so strong that the chance of an issue is minimal, now let’s say you hit a rock with your fin it is much better if the fin box will pull off alone then if it was glassed with fiberglass the damage will be greater, so it is ok to do it any way you like - I never had a problem with it 🤙🏼

@kobymaymonsurfboards7320 thanks for interesting answer, I never think about this way before. 🤙

@@roadmaster55 1000% use additive F, sanding is so much easier, I clean with 99.8% isopropyl alcohol (printer cleaner) it is by far the best way, u can also use acetone, not as good but ok 🤙🏼

Not a pro, just a kid from the beach 😅

First of all it works great, it feels different- super responsive but it likes good conditions, if the waves are choppy it will be very jumpy, it is also fast so good for small and medium waves - i wouldn't use it in high waves (over 6ft)

@@scottturner8176 yes And sanded it down before hot coat

Thanks!

@@cds2548 thanks

Thanks 🤙🏼

@@bradiliffe3372 nope - shaping room The sanding room is near by 🤙🏼

@@paredesliquidas7523 always use additive F, hot coat, i seal the board with one time spackle- super lightweight sealing compound

@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320 thanks!!

@@tonyvazquez8819 happy to hear that - more coming soon 🤙🏼

@@MechAutoClinic not sure about what kind of, i used 200gr carbon

@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320 ok..i am planning to make one for trial purpose. but out of different core material..its very light weight, all though skin will fiber so asking..since i am from India and motorcycle tech and stay away from coastal so this thing is gonna be new for me once i make it..

@@MechAutoClinic good luck You will be ok 🤙🏼

@@agniyogabyinessa just water 🤙🏼

@@WEEBER13 never had a case of the paint being removed for any reason 🤙🏼

@@MarkArloGaray this is not paint- it is a epoxy pigment with the resin

@@hipsonsogbo thanks 🤙🏼

Thank you 🙏🏽

🙏🏽

@@peterbartmann9006 thanks 🙏🏽💪🏽🤙🏼

@@mickmann6779 200gr

I use epoxy pigment with a 4% pigment to the amount of epoxy i mix. 100gr epoxy- 4gr pigment

Rail ding will not take long, 15min each part and 3 part all together so total of 45min max overall, the thing is the wait- 24H between each step. I will charge 50$ for this one

Special epoxy pigment to mix directly with the resin

You are welcome 🤙🏼

I use quick-kick by resin research It takes 3H to fully harden and 24H to sand

@@jasonandre just 4oz fibreglass and the carbon on top (200gr) all together same time

@@TaranakiFrother-oy2dx thanks 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼

@@mkat_551 i have few layers of fibreglass so i want to level it Nothing to do with resin amount If you give me the specific point (min and second of the video) i might understand better your question

@@TaranakiFrother-oy2dx only sand the overlaps and any imperfections 🤙🏼

@@Bido11561 if you are using acrylic water based paints and not too much water and let it dry good - no worries at all 🤙🏼

@@MarkArloGaray this is not paint, these are pigments for epoxy really

I don't think i added resin after the paint- i sprayed a lacquer coat - mat finish

First of all- experience and trying new things is always good, you will have to sand the board with 60grit and do a damm good job doing that making sure it is exposed and clean (wax, oils and more) You can lay carbon but the added weight will be significant, you will also need to think about the fin boxes (they will low under the carbon) so that area needs to be addressed , and a hot coat layer Sounds like a big job, delaminating is a hard thing to do and NOT worth the time unless this is a huge board and you are shaping a new smaller board out of it Good luck

@@kobymaymonsurfboards7320I figured it wouldn’t be too easy, but neither is spending near $1000 haha! Great idea on the 60 grit instead of 100! I’m thinking that I can sand down majority of the fiberglass (or epoxy coat) off the board to minimize the weight, while keeping its strong adherence to the foam. (I’m thinking like with cars how in many cases it’s best to paint on paint instead of bare metal) It’s an LFT board with smaller stringer and weighs quite a bit less actually than it’s FST variation. Overall the board is stupid light, I’ll have to do some more math on what the end weight would be. The pros of strength in my opinion would be worth it, considering I’ll be vacuum bagging it with epoxy as well. Will be sure to let you know how the process goes, weight added, and how long it takes. Appreciate the feedback!

You are not using dust mask or any other type of mask?

Thanks mate!

Weight is a big issue with Carbon Surfboard so I try to keep it minimal Thanks mate 🤙🏼

It is great fun! Good luck

Thanks 🤙🏼

LOL

In my country it is very hot (27c plus summer) so i can sand after 5-6H To be 100% sure it's cured wait 24H every step

Thanks mate appreciate the info!

Thanks mate 🤙🏼

Thanks 🙏🏽

EPS stands for expanded polystyrene (kinda similar to styrofoam) and PU is Polyurethane. PU boards are more “traditional “ and are typically glassed with polyester resins. The PU foam is also closed celled making is less prone to getting waterlogged. EPS is much lighter than PU making for ultra light boards, but you have to use epoxy resin or you will melt your blank.

Always EPS I never use pu for any of my boards