Here is a playlist with all the videos I made with modifications to the Audi A6 C7 car! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmavd6tohqacg9U

Review + Test

Hello, due to the lack of work and the initiative to see what electrical/electronic knowledge I have, I decided to make this modification, I made several videos with a series of modifications to this system which considerably improved the sound! I personally use the systems on TV, and on different streaming platforms, I watch movies with dolby atmos and dolby vision effect, which makes the sound real (surround) and with these changes the action movies offer a much more accurate detailed sound, that boom from the subwoofer became more pronounced and with a better frequency response, I replaced 2 of the front speakers with better quality ones that also have an integrated tweeter, this makes the high frequencies more pronounced, even if they were pronounced after all the changes made! The project was for me, but someone saw it and wanted me to film it so he could make these changes too, so I modified 2 systems and in the end I combined them to use a single POD Control! So I didn't say it was anything revolutionary or that we got the best out of this system, I said that these changes really have an added detailed sound with more boom clarity! There are more expensive systems that perform better and offer 100 times better sound than this system, but I paid 80 euros for the first system and 40 for the second, both complete and functional!

Hello, from what I understand you also changed the 16v 10uf capacitor and you can't find where it was mounted, right? Watch the full video and you will see that I did this too, but I noticed that it is a different capacitor and I showed it in the video and wrote that it should not be changed, so you will notice in which area it was mounted! Look here: The minute: 24:26 and 17:48! At minute 24 you will see that it is up in the corner on the right! At minute 17 you will see that I show that capacitor and you will see the back position of the motherboard!

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you very much. I notice my pcb it is diferent, I will try to figure out.

@@ElektroGamer30 I see that one it is for one of the subwofer amp. Thank you

@@virtualnodoubt7043 I don't know exactly what it was connected to, I made this video a year and a half ago! The important thing is not to replace it and everything will work perfectly!

Hi, yes everything is working perfectly so far! Absolutely all the changes I made to these systems work, perfect sound, no problems, no defects, and I even use it very often, at almost maximum volume:) Look here at all the changes I made to this Z5500 system! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qovPd5l6lL17gdU

@@bigblack2295 Hello, I am very satisfied with the speakers, they also have bass, but don't expect them to break the car door ;) The playback frequency is from 50hz up, so you won't be able to play the frequencies that a subwoofer plays. I insulated the doors completely, 2 layers on the inside board and on the inside board plus sound-absorbing sponge on the plastic side and the bass was significantly improved. I use an amplifier set to play frequencies from 33hz up and the bass is quite good for these speakers. But for a significant bass you can also use a slim subwoofer that is placed under the seat. Or the small one that is mounted where the spare wheel is in the trunk of the car. Then you will be satisfied with the bass.

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you for the response :) I think to have this speaker, hope that it satisfies me. I dont expect too much deep punch basses, I just wanna feel the bass tones in the car it is enough for me :)

@bigblack2295 Compared to the car's original loudspeakers (they were mounted on the rear of the Audi A6 C7), it is quite a big difference. The sound is much much better, clear and powerful at the same price as the original speakers.

Logitech Z5500 playlist kzbin.info/www/bejne/qovPd5l6lL17gdU

Olá, foi assim que também conheci os produtos Stetsom, mas só tive problemas com este, e outra pessoa escreveu aqui nos comentários que também teve problemas. Não sei o que dizer, talvez tenha encontrado muitos problemas!

Hello, the first time you have to do some checks to find out where the problem comes from, from the POD Control or from the amplifier board! The first test is to change the 3.5 jack cables, the second test is to slightly move the VGA plug that goes into the subwoofer, maybe a PIN doesn't touch well and that's why it doesn't work, the third test is to move the entire cable from the POD Control up to the subwoofer, right at the POD Control, that is, as the wire comes out of it, try to bend it a little in all directions, do the same for the VGA plug, bend the cable exactly where it is inserted into the VGA plug! If these do not work, we must go into detail! The first detailed test would be to bypass the POD Control, so you will find out if the problem comes from the POD Control or from the amplifier board! If you do this bypass and the speaker works, it means that POD Control is the problem! If not, then the problem is with the amplifier board! Watch here a very simple video how you can do this! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oISan555rNxreMU If the problem comes from POD Control, you can try these 2 options, maybe it will help you too! kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqOQl4mNo72AZsU kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpvdeYeLl7eajpo

@@ElektroGamer30 okay, thank you, I will try it, hopefully the problem I am facing can be resolved

@@rafieandfaqih8162 You can write here if you find something, or if you need more information!

Então esses amplificadores foram realmente tão mal produzidos? Eu conhecia a empresa Stetsom como uma empresa de amplificadores automotivos de qualidade, uma empresa séria! Mas parece que eu estava errado!

Hello and thank you! If everything seems normal with the system (The display lights up and shows everything correctly) but you don't get sound from the speakers, then it is possible that the CIP that takes care of dividing the sound for each speaker is the problem! Have you checked all the entries? The 3 in the back and the one on the side? Have you checked each effect/mode? 2x stereo, stereo, Dolby Music/Movie? Did you also check the digital (optical) input? Here's a video made by me with another problem, the central speaker doesn't work! And here I solved the problem by redoing the solders to the chip that deals with sound input/output! This CIP has the role of capturing the sound and sharing it for all speakers! kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpvdeYeLl7eajpo

@ElektroGamer30 i tried it and it didnt work, same problem

@@kallmeronaldshorts2059 You can try using the subwoofer without POD Control to see if the problem comes from POD Control or from the amplifier board! Here's a video on how to do it! If your PID is below 700, you may need a voltage regulator to turn on the amplifier board! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oISan555rNxreMU

@@ElektroGamer30 it works when i bypass it but i wanted to try to recover the control pod because it sound more nicer and bass is deeper when i use the control pod which wires can i tamper with when i bypass the control pod which wires operates the bass

@@kallmeronaldshorts2059 I sent a link to the video I made on how you can do this bypass and there I specified all the wires/pins for what it is: Logitech Z5500 Bypass POD You need the pin: Power ON: 6, 7, 8, 13 GND Pin 1 - Brown - Rear Right Pin 2 - Gray - Subwoofer Pin 3 - Red - Rear Left Pin 4 - Green - Central Pin 5 - Yellow - Front Left Pin 9 - Violet - Front Right If you want to repair the POD Control, you have to do a lot of checks, preferably with an oscilloscope to follow where the signal starts (jack input) until it goes out to the amplifier board! If you say that it works when you do this Bypass, then the problem is in the POD Control and only there you have to make the measurements! But it stopped out of the blue and the sound stopped working, or did you make some changes to it and then it stopped working?

Hello, on some games it is not worth making a video, because you have over 300 FPS (CS2, Fornite, warzone, etc...) It pays for games that consume a lot of resources!

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you very much for responding. I bought an RTX 2070 Super, and I'm already waiting for it to arrive to test it. But before ordering it I wanted to know if it was compatible since my PC has some powerful but somewhat old components. Thanks brother and sorry for the spelling errors. I'm using a translator.

@@Wistiplay Hello, I'm glad I could help you! It's nothing, I also use google translate :D If you have an i9 9900k processor and over 16GB ram, you can use a super RTX 4070 video card with confidence! Even RTX 4080 with processor overclock!

@@givawaigivawai4017 Older models, manufactured under 2007 if I'm not mistaken, need that regulator to turn on the amplifiers. But the models manufactured after 2007 no longer need that regulator. Do exactly what I did in the video and it will work. The connection you made with that regulator is correct! If everything works, you can leave them like that.

Hello, click on the title of the video and you will have a super simple tutorial for $0 to make the light red or any color you want! Or here is a link to my playlist, with all the videos with the logitech Z5500 system. They will surely help you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/raLYlZKNfL6Goqs

Thank you!

Hello, here is a video made by me with some games. I switched from the GTX 1080, which was doing a pretty good job, to this RTX 4070 Super monster!!! I highly recommend doing this upgrade only if you use 16 GB+ 3600Mhz ram and CPU Boot 5.0 Ghz. That way you will be able to get all the potential out of the video card! But I think this i9 9900k processor is doing well even without active boost! kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGjap55qaKuobK8

Hi, I didn't quite understand what you mean. Are you talking about reusing the speaker housing as an adapter ring for another speaker? I saw this method on someone, but I didn't try it! I bought extra adapter rings to mount the new speakers! I did a super satisfying Audio project on the Audi A6 C7, new videos will follow with their installation on the car + the entire wiring redone for the 14 speakers!!

Thank you very much! As for the size of the original speaker, I'm not sure but I think it's 25 cm! But the difference between the original subwoofer and the one installed by me, which is a cheap 30cm speaker (it cost 15 euros) is very big!! The new subwoofer responds much better to low frequencies, the bass is much stronger and livelier, not just frequencies above 50hz as the original does! In the meantime, I replaced that speaker with a slightly more powerful one, pioneer 500w rms, but it was a not very inspired choice! I had to get a more expensive one, 130+ euros, of 1kw that can sing in free air! But maybe with time I will change it again! :) I recommend this change if you feel the need for more bass in your car without making too many investments!

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you for the information and the advice! Continue doing this kind of videos 🙌

@@ДенисКръстев-ш8и With pleasure, I will also post with the new speakers with the whole part of pulling new wires for the speakers and connecting them to the amplifier! In total, the air car has 4 tweeters, 5 speakers with integrated tweeters, 4 bass speakers, 2 of 20 cm and 2 of 16.5 cm, and the bass speaker of 30 cm! The car is acoustically and thermally insulated! All the procedures are posted on my youtube channel! If you want to see them, here is a link with a playlist of all my videos! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmavd6tohqacg9U

Traen 10" originalmente, pero aunque lo reemplazes no cambia gran cosa la acústica

@@Enrique4781 Hola, si usas un altavoz capaz de cantar al aire libre, acústicamente, ¡es una gran diferencia! Y con otro altavoz más capaz, como pongo en el vídeo, un magnate de 800w, por 20 euros, ¡¡sigue marcando la diferencia!! Al menos en bajas frecuencias está en otro nivel, ¡el original no sabe hacer algo así! Reemplacé ese altavoz magnate por uno pionero que sabe cantar mejor en bajas frecuencias, ¡y sabes que las puertas se mueven cuando escucho al volumen 24 sobre 30!

Watch the whole video. It will surely help you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJ_XfWWXgZ6mpZI

Hello, yes, in POD Control there are digital filters as well as filtering by components (OPAMP CAPACITOR RESISTORS...etc) But at the same time there are filters inside the subwoofer on the amplifier board! Without POD Control, the subwoofer reproduces the low frequencies better, but it does not help much because the enclosure does not allow a greater drop in frequencies! A very good idea would be to make a new enclosure for the subwoofer and then you will have much more pronounced low frequencies!

@@ElektroGamer30 hmm. I was hoping to extract a proper unfiltered signal from the z5500 pod for the active subwoofer so that i can get proper deep bass and proper crossover. How can i take out an unfiltered signal from the pod for subwoofer?

@@ElektroGamer30 which changes can i make to achieve deeper bass. Changes in control pod or amplifier? In control pod u only changed 3 op-amps.

@@TBBYRL For a more detailed sound and a deeper bass, several components need to be changed! Both in POD Control and in the subwoofer (pre-amplification board and amplifier board) Here is a playlist with all my videos with all the changes made to the Z5500 system. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWWmh4OdjLGMsJosi=WDpMsaYuUFooVhAq

@@470ruger 🙃

Hi, I don't remember exactly, but you can check this very easily. remove the speaker plug, and with a small 1.5v battery or 3v accumulator, touch the speaker on the pins and see when the membrane rises a little, then you know that the plus from the battery/accumulator is placed on the plus from the speaker. If the speaker moves down, then it is the plus from the battery/accumulator to the minus from the speaker. After you have identified which is the plus on the speaker, you look at the plug from the car that goes into the speaker and see which wire is on the plus on the speaker. And you connect that wire to the plus from the new speaker.

@ElektroGamer30 wow thank you! I just guessed and got lucky haha

@@istolam94 so with low power speakers (mid tweeter) the polarity doesn't really matter that much! When we talk about bass speakers (subwoofers) or speakers that also play low or medium frequencies, then it is important that they are correctly connected!

Hello, I don't know exactly, you have to check a diagram or measure the wires to see which are the power supplies, which is the one to turn on/off and the wires for the speakers. A person wrote here that the scheme also worked on the Z2200!

Hi, yes you are right. The video was made for a friend who needed to see how this bypass is done, then I saw that more people needed to see such a simple video and I thought of posting it for free on youtube! If you connect all the wires exactly as in my video, you will have sound from all 5 speakers including the subwoofer! Below I leave you the PIN number and wire color for each speaker input! You need the pin: 6 - Orange 7 - Blue 8 - White 13 - Blue-White 6, 7, 8, 13 For Power ON and to GND JACK All pin to GND JACK And for L/R jack use Pin 1 + Rear Right Pin 2 + Subwoofer Pin 3 + Rear Left Pin 4 + Central Pin 5 + Front Left Pin 9 + Front Right Pin out Full Color 1 - Brown 2 - Grey 3 - Red 4 - Green 5 - Yellow 6 - Orange 7 - Blue 8 - White 9 - Violet 10 - Red with White 11 - Green with White 12 - Black 13 - Blue with White 14 - Brown with White 15 - Black with White

@@ElektroGamer30 OK thanks. But will I get correct audio from the correct speaker? So if a helicopter is flying across the screen, will I hear it go from left to right speaker for example?

​@@ElektroGamer30 Also can I use a normal vga cable so I don't have to cut up the wired cable feeding the control pod? My z5500 recently stopped working properly. I suspect it's the control pod. Please read my comment on your most recent upload as well. Thank you so much

@@ElektroGamer30 Also is the sound different as it's not passing through all the components in the control pod? How will I adjust volume? How will I increase or decrease sub? Thanks

@@edwardcullen3251 If you connect the wires exactly as I connected in the video, no, you will not have stereo sound, I connected all the wires in mono, just to show that this bypass works. I will leave you a link with an image of how you can connect a potentiometer for each pair of speakers! But you can only use one jack as an input, if you use it on the TV you won't have 3 jack inputs like you have on the PC. Depending on the PID, you will need that voltage regulator (PID under 700) or it will work exactly like in my video (PID over 700)! It can be found on the back of POD Control on the metal side! Regarding the VGA cable question, yes, you can use a VGA cable, as long as you connect the wires exactly as I listed above! Measure with a multimeter to see which PIN has which color! The sound will be stronger and livelier because it no longer has the filtering from the POD Control, you will only have the filtering part from the subwoofer! Many got rid of the POD Control and modified the components inside the subwoofer to have a much better, detailed, powerful sound! I also made such changes, I leave you a link with all the videos I made on the logitech Z5500 system, there I also have videos in which I solve different problems, maybe one of them will help you too! Image link with potentiometer! www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/pbgxw2e-1-jpg.655092/ Z5500 videos link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qovPd5l6lL17gdU

Hello, I have thought about this many times.. It is very difficult to produce something, especially when you don't have the necessary equipment for it. It is very expensive and not many would buy such a thing.

Unfortunately logitech did not share the necessary files and devices to update the Firmware. You can just look for a POD Control that has the latest version of Firmware.

​@@ElektroGamer30From which PID are we sure to have firmware 4.01?

@@brunojuton4969 I'm not sure but I think from PID 010 +

@@ElektroGamer30 So with a PID R013 for example, this will not be the case?

@@brunojuton4969 Mine is PID 020, and it has this version 4.0.1!

Yes it can be done. When I made this video, I didn't have that much experience and no professional equipment.

Hello, I have been using this system for 3 years, and I can say that I am satisfied. With small adjustments made by me, I managed to make it more to my liking :) Look here and the solution to the subwoofer volume that cannot be set to 0! kzbin.info/www/bejne/enSncmiigrx_fZY This modification is really worth doing!

Hello, the two speaker clips were cut with pliers, and polished to be round and smooth!

Hello, I didn't understand exactly what you want to do.. 1: Do you want to use the z5500 system with POD Control from Z680? Yes, it is possible! 2: Or do you want to use the POD Control from the Z5500 with the subwoofer/amplifier from the Z680? Yes, this is also possible! For option 1, here is an informative video on how you can start the Z5500 system without a control pod, and you connect the sound outputs to the other POD Control with the wires from the z5500, and the power supplies, depending on what voltages you need! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oISan555rNxreMU For option 2, see here another informative video, how you can start POD Control from Z5500 without using the subwoofer! Here you do the same thing, connect the POD Control outputs to the amplifier inputs, and adapt the power supply for POD Control Z5500, +18v -18v +9v! kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKmwdqqEarSMmMk

Hello, the model in the video is still 740 or 720, I don't know exactly, and yes, it worked as you can see in the video. I don't understand what diagram you want.. In the video you can see exactly the wires you need to bypass. I even wrote in the description of the video the pins you need, the role of each pin. Power ON: 6, 7, 8, 13 GND Pin 1 - Brown - Rear Right Pin 2 - Gray - Subwoofer Pin 3 - Red - Rear Left Pin 4 - Green - Central Pin 5 - Yellow - Front Left Pin 9 - Violet - Front Right It's super easy if you follow my video! Or do you need to connect the wires directly to the preamp board? You can measure with a multimeter which pin fits on the amplifier board!

@@ElektroGamer30 i saw someone make a bypass pod with 4 potentiometers which will control front stereo, rear speakers and separate control for centre and subwoofer.

@@tibby1239 Well, I gave you the pins and the role of each one.. You connect the potentiometer in series. From the jack for front speakers, connect the left and right wire to a stereo potentiometer, and from the potentiometer connect the wires from the front speakers (Pin 5 - Yellow - Front Left Pin 9 - Violet - Front Right) And you do the same for the rear ones and for the subwoofer! Look at the link for connecting a potentiometer (the stereo one has 6 pins, it's something like 2 potentiometers in one in order not to make the sound mono. The connection will be identical, one channel above one below!) www.wikihow.com/Wire-a-Potentiometer

​@@tibby1239stereo potentiometer: cdn.head-fi.org/a/8534761.jpg

@@ElektroGamer30 thank you

The problem may be from the amplifier! Either it doesn't receive a signal anymore, or it doesn't output it anymore! You have to open the subwoofer and check if there is something damaged or smoked and check if it receives a signal on the board and further if that signal reaches the amplifier and if it comes out to the speakers! The headphones work because the signal from the headphones is taken from the unamplified input! The signal that comes out of the PC and enters the right speaker is connected via a potentiometer and directly to the headphone jack! It has nothing to do with the amplifier board or any part of the filters!

Have you opened POD Control several times to check inside? As far as I know, the stripes appear when the wires from the board to the display are damaged! You can check them or even replace them or try to solder new wires!

Please give me more details about the problem! Now I realized that there are several problems that cause the black dots on the screen! Does the system work well and only has those stripes on the screen or does the system not start, only the stripes appear on the screen and that's it? Do you have noises in the speakers when you turn on the system? Is the light on the display on or only stripes appear without the light? When you turn on the system, the display starts flashing and then the black bars appear? When you turn on the system, the black bars appear and after 3 seconds the screen closes and there is a small beep from the speakers?

@@ElektroGamer30 Sure. I will try to answer everything. I have opened the control pod and everything looks fine to me. I don't see any popped capacitors and the wires appear to be connected. I don't see any burns or damage. Just slight marks from glue(?) on the circuit board. I don't know what it is - brownish, thin spot. Checked the fuse - looks fine to me. The wire inside is not burned. Didn't check it with buzzer though. Perhaps I should. The system worked well for 10+ years until about 6 months ago. Then occasionally, I started seeing these black bars/dots. They would appear, the system stops working, and after several minutes, the dots disappear on their own and it starts working again as if nothing happened. Restarting the power, sometimes helps, sometimes doesn't help. The problem was appearing and disappearing on its own. A few days ago, the bars appeared and never disappeared again. As soon as I start the system, the dots appear but there is no blue backlight. After a few seconds the blue backlight appears but the dots stay. There is no sound from the system as long as the dots are present. Currently they are permanently displayed and I haven't heard a sound from the system for a few days. There is no noise at all. Even when I start the system. When I start the system, the dots appear without backlight. After a few seconds, the light appears but after more seconds, the backlight is flashing indeed - it stops for a split second and then lights up again and stays solid for a few more seconds then it stops again for a split second. No beeping or any sound from the speakers or overall. It is completely silent. Hope that sheds some light on the situation.

@@antaress8128 You described the problem very well! I am 90% sure that the problem is with the condenser inside the subwoofer, the 25V 4700Uf one. Either it is defective or he did the cold soldering. The 10% you have to take a test! Here's a video I made with the replacement of this capacitor! kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWWmh4OdjLGMsJo You have the whole detailed process here! You can replace that capacitor with a better quality one, or if it only has cold solder on the board, you can just redo it and that's it! One more check to be done before you start disassembling, turn on the system and immediately the subwoofer shakes a little louder, and see if the system starts with the display with everything you need!!! If it starts, I am 100% sure that the problem is the cold solder on the 25v 4700Uf capacitor.

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you very much! I will check that capacitor. As for the last test before disassembling, I couldn't understand this part about the shaking. Should I shake the subwoofer or?

Hi, I fitted these speakers to an audi A6 C7 on the rear doors! I have also used other speakers from Hertz (3 x Hertz DCX 100.3 and Hertz UNO X130) The small speakers are connected directly to the car installation, as are the UNO X130, and the speakers in the video (Hertz Dieci DSK 165.3) are connected to the 4 X 220W amplifier! The sound is very clear, they also have bass (from 35Hz up, the dashboard vibrates in the car :)) ) They are quality speakers, I can't say anything about the tweeters, they sound so loud and clear, but their very high frequency response (Very sharp sound) But together with the speakers they do a wonderful job! Connected with the filter that comes in the package, they give a power of 60/70W in them without problems! The speakers are not for low frequencies, so as it says in the specifications, (50 Hz - 20KHz) But if you isolate the car doors, they sound good even at 30Hz!

At that time I had just settled in Germany, so I didn't have quality (toys). But now I have advanced a little bit, a better unit to glue, greater knowledge, all along the way, no one was born a professional!

Hello, the system is my personal one, I made these changes just for myself, but seeing the impact it has on the sound, I thought I'd share it with you for free on KZbin! And I want to mention that the system still works perfectly with these modifications, I even modified an identical subwoofer, now I have 2 subwoofers connected to a single POD Control! It has been working perfectly for 4 years!

Hello and thank you! Unfortunately, I do not own such a system and my knowledge about it is very limited. But with any audio system, if you replace the outdated and low-quality components with high-quality ones, the sound will change considerably! That's exactly what I did in this video! I put new capacitors of higher quality than what was put on the system from the factory!

@@xghcq Hello and thank you. I use 5.0Ghz CPU. I haven't had any problems with this combination, it really works really well. Run any game on Ultra, RTX ON with 60+ FPS. I tested RDR2 on ULTRA + Vulkan, and I had 90/100 FPS.

With pleasure. Here is a link with all the videos I made with the logitech Z5500 system, it will surely help you in the future. A like and a subscribe would help me a lot. Thank you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qovPd5l6lL17gdU

There will also be a video with it mounted on the car! But I still have other videos to edit!

Hola, realmente no se puede sacar mucho sonido de este sistema. Es de baja potencia y el subwoofer no tiene ese potenciómetro regulable para poder frenar los graves definitivamente. Si lo configura al mínimo, el subwoofer sigue siendo bastante ruidoso. Tengo otro video donde mostré cómo puedes conectar 3 enchufes Jack para hacer solo uno. De esa forma tendrás todas las entradas directamente para que no necesites más ese adaptador. Ese adaptador también puede estar defectuoso y por ello distorsionar el sonido del subwoofer. Dentro del adaptador hay varios condensadores y resistencias si no me equivoco, para ajustar las frecuencias del subwoofer y de los altavoces traseros. Al mismo tiempo, también muestro cómo solucionar el problema con el volumen del subwoofer que no se puede apagar. Mira aquí el enlace. kzbin.info/www/bejne/enSncmiigrx_fZYsi=_ns83fU0kKhkFo4T

@@gregkirby Hello, here is a link with all the videos I made with modifications and solutions to the Logitech Z5500 system. More than likely you have this problem as in this video. You can replace that capacitor with an identical or exact one as in my MOD video on the Z5500 system, where I put higher quality capacitors on this system. Noise problems. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHe9fZ6pqbyAnq8si=s2fvCRhKqu37FMUO System modification and sound improvement. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWWmh4OdjLGMsJosi=05tIJPIHVc7X2f2M

@@yongchuansiah3450 Hello, look at a very simple video made by me that can help you with this problem. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4G8lp-gpr-Cq7csi=V_bqO8OsWKkcuw0p

@@stefaniacristian8504 Thx!! 🫶

@@TechSeed-u5j Hello, theoretically all models are the same. WA16, color: orange, pin: 6. WA12, color: black, pin: 12 Now I noticed that I had another comment from you, and I apologize for not replying to it in time, but I didn't see it.. I have now included in the description of the video the color, pin and number of the board.

hello, this is my control pod wayar color I think our pod are different unit wa2-null wa3-black Wa1-red/black Wa10-red Wa11-green Wa12-white/black Wa13-blue Wa14- white Wa15-null Wa16- null May i know your wa16 orange and wa12 black is from the vga cable color or u put it yourself? And what is the output voltage? Any idea for my pod?Thanks

@@yongchuansiah3450 Hello, it is possible that it is the older model. Mine is the last model released in 2010. I don't know exactly what your position is at POD Control.. You have to check and try if it works like in my video. The VGA cable was like that, with those colors. I cut the wires because I tried to make a MOD to the POD Control to start without being connected to the Subwoofer. The color and order of the threads is the original, I have not changed their position/order/color.

@@ElektroGamer30 i rechange all vga connector at pod and sub board and now all function well....tq for repair knowledge😃

@@yongchuansiah3450 I'm glad you managed to solve the problem! So the problem was with the VGA plug that probably ended up inside the cable, the wires were no longer touching? Exactly like wired headphones that after using them for a long time could only be heard on one side (left or right) and if you moved the wire above the jack, both headphones could be heard :)

@@AD-xe6rl Hello, the speakers from BOSE are totally different from the normal ones that I have in the video. As well as the B&O ones, they are different from the BOSE ones and from the normal ones. The BOSE and B&O ones have enclosures in the doors, the normal ones don't, you can see that in my video. As for the sound, yes, it is different because the BOSE and B&O ones have an extra amplifier for the speakers, they have more speakers than the normal system and yes, the sound is clearer and stronger.

@@ElektroGamer30 Thank you for that :)

@@AD-xe6rl With pleasure. I'm glad I could help you, a like and a subscribe would help me a lot too. Here is a link with a playlist with all the videos I made on the Audi A6 C7. I even made a support to mount a 30cm subwoofer instead of the original one. I showed the whole process in that video. I will post other videos with modifications to the Audi A6 C7 in the near future. kzbin.info/aero/PLsgyMOzSu2EqPCSGu0xQovEAtTqlZf4pN&si=02OiowFSUogMvzV4

@@byronarriola4304 If you don't like it, stop solving your problems by watching my videos. Thank you! 

@@byronarriola4304 If you don't like it, stop solving your problems by watching my videos. Thank you!