I’ll look into it. I think there’s a “Thanks” button on KZbin that lets you give tips. Somebody gave me one a few months ago. Glad the video helped.

@@nadeemhussain794 I’m not sure. There’s a good chance it is.

@@megc18 there usually 2 nuts underneath that bolt it to the bottom part of the toilet. Undo those and undo the water pipe and the top part should lift off. Then there’s a big plastic nut holding the middle part on. There might be some crews holding it to the wall as well.

@pdunleavy1982 I appreciate the reply mate. I can't do that though, I have alot of hidden things on the toilet. Cause it's fairly new most of the pipework ect is hidden. Can't even isolate the toilet. Need to turn off the water for the whole house when trying to sort it. Thanks though

@@megc18 that’s the problem with hidden pipework

@pdunleavy1982 I'm sure I can get that flush valve out by unclipping it or something but I'm far too cautious I break it. Yeah the hidden features are a nightmare

If you are talking about the central tower, it just turns slightly anti clockwise to un clip it from the base.

Yeah, I think it’s the same heating system in the mk8

@@pdunleavy1982 I have opened both sides and could not find that same object.

@@Kwarkiemodo it must be different then. I thought it might be the same.

The reset interval is 22k miles I think. Not sure if you can access history. My newer van doesn’t show tyre pressure. Don’t think that’s a feature.

Maybe you haven’t got the timing right.

Thanks

Not sure how to confirm. Maybe see if you can see the live data from the crank sensor. Check the wiring as well.

@@pdunleavy1982 can't check the live data because of the cheap obd reader, only shows me the crank speed but I managed to get a somewhat of an interesting reaction from it. Idle rpm dropped to around 500 and than back to 750 just before engine died with dashboard showing normal idle and when starting the engine rpm jumps to 1000-1100 even though the sound of the engine and dashboard indicates normal idle rpm? From what I can see the wiring looks fine for its age, no damage or anything. Ordered the sensor and going to replace it tomorrow, will post the results. I hope I can replace it without getting the pulley off, don't have tools for that 😬

Changed the crank sensor, was a bit hard but managed to pull it off without getting the pulley out. Sadly replacing the sensor didn't fixed my problem and p0337 code still remains

@@Eren_Sarp is the wiring definitely ok?

@@pdunleavy1982 got the car towed to an electrician, they said pcm signal was under the threshold and could range from a bad connector to a bad pcm. Wiring and the connector looked fine while I was replacing the sensor, maybe I missed a part? I hope they could tell me what the real problem is today, otherwise I will be stuck in this town for the next 2 weeks because of a national holiday...

I’m out here saving lives like a modern day Jesus!! Kids should be spending less time on consoles and more time fixing cars.

Thank you very much. This is the first ever payment.

I’m pretty sure that part was at the beginning.

Im having the same problem, I do not see a rubber inset at all on the lever arm and cant find the part at all? I replaced the seal as in the vid (flow valve) but water is still jetting out of the little hole in the lever arm? And the toilet does not stop filling

www.lecicoafrica.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Siamp-inlet-Outlet-valve.pdf

Apparently part No 5 but where on earth do you get one of these?

I don’t think diesel engines have a PCV valve.

I literally had this exact same problem only a few days ago. Had the diaphragm replaced and then it started overfilling. The issue for mine was the top bit. If you look at the bit where there's a small hole and what looks like a rubber flange, press your finger down on the plastic part in the center of the hole. If it stops overfilling then you have the same issue I did. I fixed it by placing 3 very small washers under the lip of the white hole so it held the flange and the little plastic bit down, essentially simulating constant pressure downwards, and it works now!

It might just need a new metal spring clip. It might be a bit stretched. Or squeeze your old one closed.

Try see if there’s some kind of clip you can fit to keep them together. Or maybe a little zip tie.

I think the wiring was broke in the front door loom. In the bend by the hinge.

Not sure. Haven’t got the car anymore. I think there’s more room on that side

I think I cleaned up the O rings and put a bit of grease on them. It took a fair bit of force to push it down.

Think you can just push them back. It’s a long time since I did this job.

Cheers as don't look like clips would come out without removing injector as they pushed in from back

I’m not sure without looking at the car.

There’s a good chance it’s the same problem. Just stuck the other way