You're so kind. It was just a simple solution to a nagging problem. Thanks for the comment.

I have read in the past that this method works but never tried it out. Thanks.

I think it would look better but have not used JB weld for anything list this. You must know it gets very hard, if so you might have a good idea here.

I am not sure what you mean by middle gear. You do have to loosen some arms and gears to make things slide around and fit other gears.I have reviewed this video that I posted years ago and I think I covered all the steps except for the loosening of arms and gears. I would like to help more but not sure how I can without seeing a video of what you are doing.

@ I’ll try make a video and share it with you later. When I put the 52 tooth gear on it won’t slide down enough to put the spacer on and hits the bigger gear that it should mesh with. Thanks

ok

Are you cutting a thread? If so what size. eg. 20 or 13 treads per inch for example.

@@MrModify wanting to cut a 24 thread

No mold. No moisture so no mold.

no collet it was just an off center facing tool.

Heat bar before and during drill out with the drill you extending . mount drill in hole under load and allow to cool. May need to harden and sharpen drill but your drill will run true to your lathe. Its how my pro Turner dad taught me

Iwill give it a try and see if it works better than what I am doing. Thanks Martin.

The bar must be running true in the chuck; otherwise, the center drill will never run true, defeating the object of accurately positioning the start for a subsequently drilled hole. You will have far more success making extensions for spotting drills that don't have delicate pilots and are made especially for starting drilled holes. The bar and hole must still be running concentrically though. Bearing fit adhesive is often strong enough for this application. Center drills are better suited for their original use in locating lathe centers.

Thanks

Yes, I got really ticked off before I thought of the solution.

It is called a Kant Twist clamp. Look in Amazon. They are not cheap. Here is a link. www.amazon.ca/s?k=kant+twist+clamp&crid=1EANECL9T5DQJ&sprefix=kant+twist+clamp%2Caps%2C189&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Yes, I think that would work as well and might be easier to create.

An electric drill version is a good idea.

Thanks for taking the time to look at that. I have used it like this for years and thoght it was working ok because the bucket was collecting dust. I need to find more hose and make some adjustments in order to do what you suggest but I will give it a try. Maybe it is going to work much better. A friend gave the vac system to me so it never came with instructions.

@@MrModify you don't need a hose, you can plumb it with hard pipe, which is what I have, but your input should be into the one at a side, and your vac should go to the one above. Go lookup dust deputy or any of the other mini cyclones..

I Made the changes you suggested and tried it out. I does seem to be working much better. Thanks again.

Thanks Joe.

It is a King Canada mill KC-20vs2 . I got it from KMS tools in Cabada. I think Grizzly tool in USA will have something like it. www.kmstools.com/

Ideally I agree it is better and you could design an extension with a handle that has a tee. But considering the frequency of use I don't think I wil bother doing it. Good comment.

Never heard of a slot drill. I am sharpening a two flute end mill. You will have to tell me what a slot drill is.

End mills and slot drills are both milling cutters, but they have different cutting patterns and uses: End mills Primarily cut laterally and horizontally, and are used in a variety of milling applications, including drilling, slotting, and contouring. Slot drills Can plunge in like a drill and then slot across like an end mill, and are often used in general machinery. They can cut in all directions, and are used in a variety of industries, including engineering, carpentry, construction, metalworking, and woodworking. Here are some other differences between end mills and slot drills: Flute: Slot drills have one flute that is slightly longer than the other, while end mills have clearance in the center. Cutting edges: Slot drills have two radial cutting edges opposed to each other. Chip evacuation: Slot drills have two or three flutes, which helps with chip evacuation and keeps the bit cooler for longer. Surface cut: Slot drills produce a rougher surface cut than other end mills. Plunge cuts: Slot drills can perform plunge cuts, which other end mills cannot. Hope this helps. Jim.

I've been doing this stuff for many years and never realized the difference. Thanks for the detailed description.

Thanks. I didn't expect it would be correct but wanted to know how much off it was.

You are 100% correct and those morse tapers have to be very close to work right.

Yes, I think the grizzly is basically the same lathe.

@@jeffreydolence7525 thanks jeff

Thanks. This has worked well for me for years.

Thanks. It did take me year to get around to this.

Thanks

I have never had a need to put tension on the lager belt so I just delt with the smaller belt tension. You might find position that would work for both, using the same idea if you need that.

P.S. I will be postion an update to the tensioner problem on Nov. 8 2024 This will be a major improvement to quickly change the upper belt tension.

Not a bad idea, just might do that.

I had that diamond for over 20 years, must be a good one, it has lots of life yet. No positive feed back for sure. Thanks for the comment.

Very interesting. Thanks

It is the heat the expediates things. I guess that it would work on plastics if the heat applied does not deform or melt the plastic. This would perhaps mitigate the heat effect and not be as effective.

Thanks.

Sounds like you have a well quipped shop. If I could do that it would be great but I have no ID or OD grinder.

@@MrModify you have a dremel tool? get or make a dremel holder for your QCTP.. do rough passes with a boring bar and carbide insert, then finish the surface with the dremel. if no dremel is available, attach a normal drill with hose clamps to your QCTP.

Not sure how good the finish would be but I will consider giving that a try. Thanks.

I think mine has a Morse taper 4 maybe I can find an adaptor to r8. Thanks for the idea.

@@MrModify That seems large enough to make an adapter, be sure to video the success (or failure) as it will be of great interest. Cheers!

A possibility. Thanks

@@MrModify Little machine shop has 3MT to 3C adapter for $20. Set of 7 3C collets $40. Guaranteed true within 0.0002" .

Yes. Any lubrication would do the same thing and dish soap is a safe lubricant. Thanks for the responce.

I sold it a few months ago and I do miss it. The small one I have now has harder to see scale.

Thanks for the comments. Ideas like this should be shared.

Yes, tape might hold the nuts in plsce better.

It is not much to buy one but where is the fun in that.

I did this video a long time ago and since sold the ATV. I don't think it matters where the brushes are I didn't even consider where the brushes were when I re-assembled and everything worked fine. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Good to know you found it of some value.

The holes were also my next thought if need be. I think you read my mind.

At 18 volts and about 5 amps there is a chance of shock but I think not very serious due to the low voltage. Also the battery is not getting wet. I have used this to clean toilets for years and have not got any kind of shock.

I am not sure I understand what you are asking. If you want exact centering of your part, you will still have to use a dial indicator on the part while adjusting the four-jaw chuck. This little tool is just to give you a rough start on positioning your 4 jaw chuck jaws. I find it saves me some time in the actual centering process.

@@MrModify OK- let's say you have set the jaws with the tool in the tailstock just to nip it and then release it from the tailstock and put a dial on it and correct the minor run-out there may be and tighten all the jaws. Then slacken two adjacent jaws , take out the tool and put. the job in then tighten the same two jaws.

Sounds like that might work but depending on the accuracy you are looking for you might have to check your part after tightening all jaws. I have worked with very tight tolerances , and I do find you can chase perfection for a very long time.