Thanks for the review as I have just picked up this case LANCOOL II Mesh C Performance for £72 Black Friday deal for a new build no brainer at that price, will be going for an AMD build with a 9600x on air cooling Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE Black paired with this case temps should be very cool at low RPM, Going for a pure Black build with no RGB.

What an eye opening video, very informative, thanks so much you're the boss 👍

Thanks for teaching some sloppy guys what caps are used for (minute 21) and that they should be replaced by new ones. Yes, by new ones, not one of another old board. Caps have a life span and if you replace them with a grandpa, not a good repair job. Especially worse if you take the exact same cap from the same location on the same type of donor board. Why? Because the broken cap could have been broken because its location is stressed all the time. Might also be just a badly produced one, but you don't know that, right? So, please: Just buy a pack of new ones and use these. Don't be lazy and stubborn like for example 'Electronics Repair School'. Always remember: The board designer knows the board in and out, and he placed a cap there. Don't think you are smarter than the designer.

A 4 PAK of Energizers 2032 cost me $5 US..... But I bet they last longer than most of the Cheaper ones!

BRO!!!! damn fine video my friend. you explain things very very well. keep it up mate.

You confused me a bit at the end. You unsoldered "door 3" and then the short on the main rail was gone. Why even bother desoldering the power stage? Wasn't it already clear that obviously the circuit inside the CPU powered from input coil 3 was making the short and therefor already clear that part of the CPU is done?

So in summary. If you flash the BIOS chip with a file from manufacturers site and Laptop working again, ?WHAT does this mean for operation and the Windows key that was locked for that laptop? Will it still work and be recognized by MS servers ect? Bit confused at what/why you have to do all the extra stuff? When you "erase" the bios chip before reprogramming, is there the original details for that laptop that isnt touched and just the "bios" operation communication part that is needed is flashed to make all the parts work again? or is it "everything"

I might finally know why my old Dell started booting up to 600 MHz. All this time, I thought it was the OS. I might dig out that dinosaur and take a look.

41:20

Absolute great video! Thank you sharing and teaching us.🙏

Question. So, if my problem isnt as bad as this, can i just back off the hinge screw and avoid buying a new backing?

1:20 The integrated gpu has seen some high temperatures 💀

Great use of the thermal camera and software to illustrate the issue with the heat pipe, great for people who are not familiar with how they work.

good fix, makes a change from power rail shorts

I never fail to learn something watching your channel.

"It's straight as an arrow", lol )))

I never seen a heatpipe fail before

Best review with good and bad points of it yet. Thanks. Will be ordering mine soon.

I don't miss the music in later years😅

Excellence as usual, sir.

so i have a NP700Z7C samsung 17" series 7 that has similar problems but mine does POST, only thing is that it doesnt want to load into bios or OS at all, when i press the F2 for bios setup it just turns off then it turns back on and again stays in the samsung start up logo then when i go to the boot menu, it takes me to the APP MENU/SETUP screen but doesnt show anything like if the HDD and CD drive are unplugged which are not. I unplugged the CMOS battery and main battery but still nothing. My cap lock light does turn on/off but thats as far as i can get, any suggestions anyone please? im guessing its gonna be a corrupted BIOS and im gonna have to get this procedure done to it but uggh such a pain tbh :( Any suggestions please? i appreciate the help, thanks!!

On my 10th-Gen Toshiba Portege the heatpipe is working but it would not boost more than x32 (supposed to go up to x44 at 4.95GHz). I added a 3mm thermal pad on top of the heatpipe and underneath on the PCB so that some of the heat transfers to the bottom of the keyboard and lower case and it now boosts to x42... a massive improvement. I also added thermal pads to the smps chips on the motherboard (6mm was required for it to touch the bottom case) and also on the NVME m.2 HDD. Every litrtle bit of themal pad helps to reduce heat and thus the laptop will last longer instead of chips overheating and failing.

I watched this with my morning tea... been bothering me all day. What is in a heat pipe and what could cause it to clog up at a specific place?

Thanks alot for that interesting info and the great demonstration.

If they get a crack and leak the coolant (usually pure water) they wouldn't function.

I literally have this exact problem now on a iffy GPU motherboard which i reflowed and got going again but THEN i looking at the temp after a put fresh paste on and its 75-80c idle and bit above?? I had the board out and the pipe was really hot but the cooler was stone cold so i thought WTF?? Maybe this explain the GPU failure overheated. I ASS sumed the copper pipe was just metal so cant fail but obviously something is very wrong and theres black along the side of the tube where the fins are SO... something has leaked out and now it wont transfer heat? i might put it in water and see if bubbles come out indicating a failure. I could fill it or partially but with what? Too much would explode? any rate i could solder the leak. Any ideas on fluid? Presario CQ62, i use for testing and experimenting. Might have to find another tube online and replace

After 40 yrs I still suck doing small stuff but sometimes it works out.

Amd was their first mistake 😂😂😂

Heatpipes contain several essential elements that allow them to efficiently transfer heat: Liquid: A small amount of liquid (usually water or a mixture of water and additives) is present inside the heatpipe Wick: A porous structure within the heatpipe that facilitates the movement of the liquid Evaporation Zone: At the hot end of the heatpipe, where the liquid evaporates due to the heat input Condensation Zone: At the cold end of the heatpipe, where the vapor condenses back into liquid Vacuum: The interior of the heatpipe is typically evacuated to create a vacuum, allowing for more efficient heat transfer So this failed one could have multiple faults.

Thank you for another brilliant video, Graham. I refurbish Dell Inspiron laptops as a hobby. I have found and replaced at least three faulty heat pipes on Inspiron laptops in the past two years. This video is a valuable addition to your growing library of highly educational and helpful content. Cheers!

Interesting and informative. Thanks.

I've seen dented ones, obviously that's a issue.

Thanks Graham, I always thought they were solid copper and thinking, "how can this possible fail" always learning ! 🤠😎

I would never have found that! A part from an obvious kink in the pipe, I wouldn't have thought they could fail. And being metal, I would have thought they were pretty much fool-proof (unless bent!). I wonder if dust has blown back inside, causing a blockage? Maybe a strong air compressor used to clean the vents/fan?

Keep up the incredible content!

I ve seen it on Samsung

Interesting. Probably an illusion, the faulty pipe appears to be damaged close to the CPU mount (6:03) compared with the replacement (0.56)

I've never seen a heatpipe fail you have opened my eyes and thank you for a very well make video, instant thumbs up.

Man i started blowing at the screen just to cool this one lol

I’ve been in this business for 12 years now and still learning from your video’s. Thanks Graham

Very interesting! I didn't know heatpipes could fail without visible physical damage. Thanks for showing us!

Another indicator is how hot the air is coming out of the exhaust. If the system is overheating and the air coming out isn't really hot then there's an issue in the heat transfer. If the air is hot then the cooling is working correctly, taking it from the source and dumping it elsewhere. If the air is cold then it's it's not actually taking the heat and dissipating. Good video.

good analysis 👏👏👏

Great .

I have never seen this problem before. Weird! Surely this laptop would always of had this problem? It's just a bit of copper. Like the tape fix for 'glare' on thermo. Cheers. Edit: I'm still trying to get my head round how this can happen. It's just a bit of metal.

I used the touch test to see if my stove was on, Now they call me Lefty

Very nice! Thanks for all the great videos.

Excellent explanation! I have a Surface Pro that badly throttles similar to what you show. Will definitely look into following this through process to diagnose a potential heat pipe failure. Thank you so much for all your content, I watch every single video and soak in all you knowledge. This is what KZbin is all about in my world.

Thank you, very informative. This I will remember forever. I have had overheating issues before and went through hell to repair them not realizing that when I replaced the heat pipe. That was the problem. Now after seeing this vid. I understand what I did was the correct thing Afterall. Thank you.

a coldpipe