I found in the description above. Thank you!

Google Search Engine is your friend. Type the part number MAX809JTRG in the search box.

So sorry but I am just a car owner and was not in a position to give any advice. I did mine when the engine was cold if that matters. Thank you!

@@wanakosabe2093 today i tried on a slightly warm engine. Not so warm so didn't used gloves. All bolts were unscrewed successfully

There is no available circuit diagram for the display bd. But the easy way is to swap the display bd with a known good GLX-PCB-DSP. You can buy, return it at no cost, and/or sell it back. The choice is yours.

If 5 Vdc is present with the display bd in place then it's probably a bad display bd. Inspect the display bd and use an electronic spray cleaner to clean the contacts.

Nope! This is for the Hayward Aquarite mainboard (GLX-PCB-RITE) and Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL). The Hayward AquaPlus mainboard (GLX-PCB-MAIN) is entirely different from what is shown in this video.

What do you mean by "No Power"? The troubleshooting shown above assumed that the 30-32VDC is present between the Blk and Red terminal on the top right-hand corner of the board. Could you make sure you have an incoming AC power to the bd? If the voltage reading on all the test points agrees with what is shown in the video, you may have a bad display bd.

So sorry but I am just a car owner who DIY'ed a TSB following the car manufacturer. The Google search engine usually gets the attention of the experts to answer your questions. Thanks and have a nice day!

bro ur headgasket is cooked

@@fzaan5 TROLL spotted...😂😂😂😂

@@Bisk0ts0 who are u?

@1:27 connect the blk test lead to the R15 Negative metal post labeled .015Ω

You're welcome! Glad I could help. You have Hayward Aquatrol revision 1.47, the newest and most reliable circuit bd. 👍

Try to reach Hayward Customer Support-Center >>>hayward.com/support/support-center

@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you very much for your input. I have sent them an email through the link you have provided.

@@wanakosabe2093 Hello, I have contacted Hayward and they have told me that this information is not public. But I have replaced the two capacitors and the current limiting NTC and it is working correctly. Thanks for your help.

@@fjmorales1939 Good job! 👏Thanks for the update.

Magic Lube 5 OZ Teflon based - #631

Maytronics recommends MOLYCOTE 111 @@wanakosabe2093

Maytronics recs: MOLYCOTE 111

Sorry, but I don't know the part#. However, an electronic cleaner spray might help. The % output potentiometer on the Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP is a 4-Terminal,10k with D-Shaft. A direct-fit replacement pot is available, you just have to do the research. For more info, please take a gander at post#8 from the link > www.troublefreepool.com/threads/output-does-not-match-the-adjustment-knob.235353/#post-2060958

@@wanakosabe2093 thanks for your help and super fast response. I love your video and your patience.

Sorry, but I don't understand your remarks. I am just a pool owner and have no in-depth technical knowledge of the equipment other than what was shown in the video. Thank you.

Si vous ne branchez qu'un seul des 2 moteurs de traction, cela donne quoi ? Et inversement ? Le problème se situe sans doute du côté de la carte électronique de commande des moteurs. Vérifiez l'absence d'oxydation sur les pistes de la carte, n'hésitez pas à pulvériser dessus un produit spécial contre l'oxydation des cartes électroniques. Puis contrôlez l'état des condensateurs (à l'aide d'un capacimètre ou d'un multimètre équipé d'une telle fonction) et des gros transistors. Un ou plusieurs de ces composants peut-être endommagé et donc ne plus remplir son office donc en définitive une intensité insuffisante aux bornes d'un/des moteurs empêchant alors sa/leur rotation. Si vous n'avez pas de capacimètre alors je vous suggère de tentez dans un premier temps le remplacement des condensateurs par des neufs de mêmes caractéristiques techniques (prendre de type électrolytique, de même tension et de même capacité en Farad) ;) Tenez-moi au courant ici

@@heavoc9793 wo c'est hyper gentil de votre réponse détaillée mais ça a l'air au dessus de mes capacités... Cette carte électronique courte 50euros je pense que j'irais en racheter et puis c'est tout ... Du côté des moteurs...il y a du courant qui arrivent dans leur bornes mais dès que je les branches, rien du tout... Mais quand j'en branche que un il y a une borne qui marche uniquement. Je branche les deux plus rien...

Thanks for the visit 👋

Many thanks

No! If TP13 shows 0 volt then the TP14 test is invalid. What is the voltage reading at R17 as shown @2:00? If the reading is 0, focus on the upstream components. Inspect the F1 20A fuse, check for loose or burnt wiring connections, bridge rects and confirm the incoming AC supply at TB-1 is present. Please reference my other video if you are troubleshooting in front of the control panel kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3i0dH1jfL2Ka7s

@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you very much for your response. I did all the other tests per the video at the link you suggested. I am getting 33V between R15 and the red terminal, the 20A fuse looks fine as well. On the R17 resistor lead, I am getting 24V and 23 V on the other side of resistor just like in your video. Now when I go to measure for 5V on TP13, I get a reading of 0. Would the issue be the 5V regulator itself or are there any tests that I should be performing? Obviously, as mentioned, any of the following tests with TP14 and the 4th pin on the display, give 0V reading. Not sure what else I should be testing as possible cause. Thank you 😊

@@razvanchircu3017 On the Aquarite, the 78M05 is the fixed voltage regulator and it consists of 3 terminals. Terminal #1 (In) is tied directly to the 23Vdc side of the R17 via circuit trace. Therefore, terminal #1 should read 23V. If false, inspect for a broken circuit trace but if the 23Vdc is present and terminal#3 is 0V then the voltage regulator is faulty. Here's a wiki to the Hayward Aquarite to expand your knowledge > www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG

Pardon the delay! Do you have Aquarite or Aquatrol model? Would you know the software version? If you have the older version, inspect the condition of the Thermistor. Thanks

opo 😂

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

Thanks! Glad I could help 👍

Please take a moment to read the description box. Thank you and hope this helps you fix your Aquatrol mainboard.

Check the electrical Circuit breaker or GFCI. Engage an Electrician if you are not comfortable working around electricity. The troubleshooting steps shown in this video will not help you address the missing 120-240VAC. I assumed you are wired for 240Vac! Never measure TB1-1 or 4 against the Gnd post!

The symptoms you described are pointing to a different issue! Sounds like you have a bad thermistor or bad solder joint. Google search "how to repair the Aquarite mainboard" or "Aquarite no cell power". Thanks

@@wanakosabe2093 exactly right! I had replaced the thermistor months ago, and it was visibly loose from a bad solder joint. Fixed now. Thanks again!

Good job 👏Glad I could help.

An input current is present in the device but is not passing through at no load. Electricity can kill. Please do the smart thing, take a moment to read the description. Thank you!

If the 5Vdc is missing at TP4, the microcontroller and all the chips onboard will not function.

Wanako Sabe I checked and it’s there

@@scottiestewart2922 Am I understanding that the 5Volts dc is present at TP14? If yes, then the troubleshooting shown in this video is not going to help you fix your aquarite board. However, I may offer some assistance if you can describe in detail the symptoms you're having with your aquarite swcg. Thanks

and if I may, allow me to redirect you to the proper forum. There's a wealth of knowledge and very helpful members in there www.troublefreepool.com/forums/salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg.25/

@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you so much for your help. I have followed the steps in the video and my results are as follows... red terminal = 31.28V R17 = 23.72V & 22.53V TP13 = 4.99V Display connector Pin 4 = 0 Remove Display Board TP13 = 4.99V TP14 = 4.99V Riser board pin 4 = 0 TP14 to R15 = 8 ohms Riser board pin 4 = 20 ohms I first noticed the display board and power lights were off after a big storm. When I plug ac to the unit I can hear a low hum from the transformer. However, when I switch the power switch to auto, I don't hear the clicking sound the unit normally makes after 15 seconds.

Thank you for chiming in, much appreciated! To learn more, here's the link to the Hayward AquaRite Settings and Frequently Asked Questions kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGKTnpWJopqAirs

where I can buy parts for circuit board

Amazon or EBay

I already bought 2 of those a while back but Thank you. That's nice of you!

There are schematic diagrams floating around. Troublefreepool has wealth of knowledge waiting for you to unleash. Google Search should yield plenty of hits. See if the below link works. Otherwise, you have to do the leg work. Thanks! Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading | Trouble Free Pool www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG www.troublefreepool.com/threads/fuse-keeps-blowing-on-hayward-swim-pure-salt-water-panel.235066/

That is a Becker Map Pilot M078 (European Ver) bought new in 2015 bundled with 2016 US map/software free dld. It has worked well since except for the no-voice command (EU vs US ver incompatibility). Numerous attempts in migrating the M078 US map to my spare module M014 (US ver) were unsuccessful due to license nag. The annual Map & Sw update is available for USD99 via Becker Map Pilot sw updater. Google search should return some leads. Thanks

👍 Great job! Glad I could help.

Please see the description box. Thank you!

@@wanakosabe2093 all good, found it at Newark Canada. The semiconductor MAX809JTRG micro processor costs about $1, better than $365 for a complete mother board which is what the manufacturer wants of course. Thank you again for the very informative video.

@@grafx-3signsrentals187 You are welcome. Glad I could help.

Sounds like you may have a bad display bd. Measure the resistance between pins 2 and 4 on the dsp bd. It should read about 10k and 4k in reverse. Fyi, pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is positive. Try to follow pin# 4 circuit trace to narrow down the troubleshooting. Inspect the pot and probe the caps. If ok, assume bad chip.

If the thermistor crumbled, split or cracked the lcd display should still work but no LED's. The mainboard featured on this video is the newest r1.59 build from which Hayward incorporates a K4 relay (right next to the limiter) to prevent the thermistor from overheating. I have not heard of the thermistor failing on the r1.59 build. But anyway, the thermistor failure is a known issues on the older Aquarite boards and Hayward used two different types of thermistor. It's either SL32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1062-ND) or AS32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1105-ND). The thermistor solder pads on some AQR boards are pre-drilled to take either of the two. The AS32 is known to last longer than the SL32 series. I'd suggest you watch some youtube videos on how to replace the thermistor on a Aquarite.

Did you mean the generating LED does not come on at all or it does but briefly? Run the pump, move the switch to "Auto" and turn on the AC power to the swcg. The "No Flow" indicator should flash for 1 minute, followed by the "Generating LED". And 10 seconds later, you should hear the relay click. Sequentially push the Diagnostic button within 50 seconds after the relay clicked. Please post the diagnostic readings.