Aquarite No Display No Lights == Fixed ==

Disclaimer:
This video is meant for informational purposes only! Electricity is dangerous and can cause personal injury and/or death as well as other property loss or damage that may result from your actions. I take no responsibility for the use and results of this information by any party, especially those lacking sufficient skill or knowledge to perform these steps safely and any hazard created is the sole responsibility of the user. If you have any doubts what so ever about performing do-it-yourself electrical work, PLEASE do the smart thing and hire a QUALIFIED SPECIALIST to perform the work for you.
PCB:
• Hayward Aquarite (GLX-PCB-RITE)
U13 Part# MAX809JTRG
• Digi-Key Part Number: MAX809JTRGOSCT-ND
• Mouser #: 863-MAX809JTRG
Tools:
• Digital Multimeter
• Soldering Iron
• Solder 60/40 Rosin-Core
• Solder Sucker
• Solder Wick
• Needle Nose Plier
• Tweezer, Needle Pin
• Acetone or Alcohol and Cotton Swab (optional)
• A steady hand and patience, lots of it…
Voice over:
Online Text to Speech reader
www.naturalrea...

[@Anibal_Torres]

Just like others in the comments, after a thunder storm, my unit stopped working. Came across this video and followed it to a T. No prior experience with Soldering and I was able to fix my Unit and save Hundreds of dollars $$$. Thank you so much for posting this video. Worked on revision board 147 just the same. “Patience” was the most important part. Lol. Thank you so much.

[@wanakosabe2093]

You're welcome! Glad I could help. You have Hayward Aquatrol revision 1.47, the newest and most reliable circuit bd. 👍

[@stevepolyack3897]

My Hayward AquaRite control panel had this same issue after a nearby lightning strike. Thanks to your video, I was able to fix it for $20!

[@wanakosabe2093]

👍 Great job! Glad I could help.

[@ArthurLam89]

Watched your video a couple of days ago to diagnose my board and determined that the U13 chip died. Ordered the part from digikey, installed it today and everything is back up and running. Fixed it for less than $10. Thank you for your help!

[@wanakosabe2093]

Good job 👏Glad I could help.

[@steveroberts4762]

After a lightning storm, I had the same problem. You must be able to solder, surface mount. Might as well get extras. At 59 cents each not a big deal. Dropped one. Never found. Thank you so much 💓 better than a $425 board!

[@wanakosabe2093]

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

[@chuck3ization]

You are awesome!!! This is electronics troubleshooting at its best. Thanks so much! I’d be happy to buy you a new solder sucker. Let me know where to send

[@wanakosabe2093]

I already bought 2 of those a while back but Thank you. That's nice of you!

[@khurramsaleem1207]

Thanks for the video. Am going to attempt the diagnostic - where do u connect the black multimeter tip?

[@wanakosabe2093]

@1:27 connect the blk test lead to the R15 Negative metal post labeled .015Ω

[@hendoxtendo2184]

You are a life saver, thanks so mich for the info!!!

[@wanakosabe2093]

Thanks! Glad I could help 👍

[@maximsauriol9587]

Hello ! What it can be if I have no voltage and no resistance from the R15 and TP14. ? Thank you

[@ascott6804]

This issue "thank god!" Is not going on with mine. Your video is very helpful for troubleshooting for other issues!! I opened my panel and right away noticed my voltage limiter split and in three pieces. What can I do to prevent over current? Is it just a thing? ...do I buy two is my question? Lol!! Thanks again for the vid. I'll check into getting some tools to do this work for myself. The tip on the probe electric tape was helpful in that I'm an electrical trouble shooter for hard problem in the auto industry. Def gonna do that!!

[@wanakosabe2093]

If the thermistor crumbled, split or cracked the lcd display should still work but no LED's. The mainboard featured on this video is the newest r1.59 build from which Hayward incorporates a K4 relay (right next to the limiter) to prevent the thermistor from overheating. I have not heard of the thermistor failing on the r1.59 build. But anyway, the thermistor failure is a known issues on the older Aquarite boards and Hayward used two different types of thermistor. It's either SL32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1062-ND) or AS32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1105-ND). The thermistor solder pads on some AQR boards are pre-drilled to take either of the two. The AS32 is known to last longer than the SL32 series. I'd suggest you watch some youtube videos on how to replace the thermistor on a Aquarite.

[@scogadots]

Hello, thanks for the video. Question, regarding the AC voltage. When I measure AC input across pins 1 & 4, I only get 4VAC. If I measure pin 1 to GND, I get 115VAC and pin 4 to GND, I get 118 VAC. All my DC Voltages read zero.

[@wanakosabe2093]

Check the electrical Circuit breaker or GFCI. Engage an Electrician if you are not comfortable working around electricity. The troubleshooting steps shown in this video will not help you address the missing 120-240VAC. I assumed you are wired for 240Vac! Never measure TB1-1 or 4 against the Gnd post!

[@joepratt4104]

10:58 what would be the process after finding power to pin four but still no LCD screen lit up how to troubleshoot the actual screen itself what is the process if you know it much appreciated and awesome videos thank you thank you thank you

[@wanakosabe2093]

There is no available circuit diagram for the display bd. But the easy way is to swap the display bd with a known good GLX-PCB-DSP. You can buy, return it at no cost, and/or sell it back. The choice is yours.

[@cpsadp99]

Hi Wanako. I think your video is very informative. By any chance you know what part number is the dial to adjust the percentage of the chlorine? Mine seems to jump all over if I want to adjust more or less chlorine. Thanks in advance ;)

[@wanakosabe2093]

Sorry, but I don't know the part#. However, an electronic cleaner spray might help. The % output potentiometer on the Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP is a 4-Terminal,10k with D-Shaft. A direct-fit replacement pot is available, you just have to do the research. For more info, please take a gander at post#8 from the link > www.troublefreepool.com/threads/output-does-not-match-the-adjustment-knob.235353/#post-2060958

[@cpsadp99]

@@wanakosabe2093 thanks for your help and super fast response. I love your video and your patience.

[@joepratt23]

Question... what if J14 and Pin 4 are good. Does that mean display board is bad?

[@wanakosabe2093]

If 5 Vdc is present with the display bd in place then it's probably a bad display bd. Inspect the display bd and use an electronic spray cleaner to clean the contacts.

[@richrainer1299]

Ma’am I have a Hayward goldmine aqua plus (G1-011049F-1 F) board. My display is out but the system is running, does this video apply to my board? Thank you

[@wanakosabe2093]

Nope! This is for the Hayward Aquarite mainboard (GLX-PCB-RITE) and Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL). The Hayward AquaPlus mainboard (GLX-PCB-MAIN) is entirely different from what is shown in this video.

[@tedhicks5431]

Where can I send this board to be checked

[@jimijam62]

What is the part number of the U13 Chip?

[@jimijam62]

I found in the description above. Thank you!

[@georgephillips1498]

With the pump off, the no flow light is solid red and the display shows a salt level reading. when the pump is activated, there are no lights and the display goes blank. Even though the board is dark when pump runs, it appears to be generating chlorine. Would appreciate thoughts on how to troubleshoot and fix?

[@wanakosabe2093]

Pardon the delay! Do you have Aquarite or Aquatrol model? Would you know the software version? If you have the older version, inspect the condition of the Thermistor. Thanks

[@scottiestewart2922]

I followed your helpful steps and feel that I have the same issue with U13. I can here the hum of the power supply when I plug it in and there is no display or power lights. However, I don't hear a clicking sound when the unit is switched to on. Normally I heard a click after a few seconds after turning the switch to auto. Is this 2 separate issues?

[@wanakosabe2093]

If the 5Vdc is missing at TP4, the microcontroller and all the chips onboard will not function.

[@scottiestewart2922]

Wanako Sabe I checked and it’s there

[@wanakosabe2093]

@@scottiestewart2922 Am I understanding that the 5Volts dc is present at TP14? If yes, then the troubleshooting shown in this video is not going to help you fix your aquarite board. However, I may offer some assistance if you can describe in detail the symptoms you're having with your aquarite swcg. Thanks

[@wanakosabe2093]

and if I may, allow me to redirect you to the proper forum. There's a wealth of knowledge and very helpful members in there www.troublefreepool.com/forums/salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg.25/

[@scottiestewart2922]

@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you so much for your help. I have followed the steps in the video and my results are as follows... red terminal = 31.28V R17 = 23.72V & 22.53V TP13 = 4.99V Display connector Pin 4 = 0 Remove Display Board TP13 = 4.99V TP14 = 4.99V Riser board pin 4 = 0 TP14 to R15 = 8 ohms Riser board pin 4 = 20 ohms I first noticed the display board and power lights were off after a big storm. When I plug ac to the unit I can hear a low hum from the transformer. However, when I switch the power switch to auto, I don't hear the clicking sound the unit normally makes after 15 seconds.

[@nmedcalf]

So, I have followed your troubleshooting procedure as I had a similar problem of no power light, no display. I have 5 volts at TP13, and no voltage at the TP14 point or Pin 4 for the display, and all other voltage is normal as you showed. However, when I remove the display board, I now see 5 volts at TP13, TP14, and pin 4! Resistance check at pin 4 9.5k ohms and TP14 is 7.8m ohms. Any suggestions on what to check next? Could the display board be causing the voltage drop? Thanks for any help, I appreciate your video! (I have older version of the PCB, I think rev C, with out the K4 relay, and I have already replaced the Thermister)

[@wanakosabe2093]

Sounds like you may have a bad display bd. Measure the resistance between pins 2 and 4 on the dsp bd. It should read about 10k and 4k in reverse. Fyi, pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is positive. Try to follow pin# 4 circuit trace to narrow down the troubleshooting. Inspect the pot and probe the caps. If ok, assume bad chip.

[@johnduncan7677]

Great video! My display lights are out, but if I remove and replace it on the riser pins, it will appear to start working. Flashing red light for no flow, then progress to green generate light, with the yellow check cell flashing. As soon as the yellow light stops, all lights go out. Is this symptomatic of a different issue? Or, is this a similar case as the board in your video?

[@wanakosabe2093]

The symptoms you described are pointing to a different issue! Sounds like you have a bad thermistor or bad solder joint. Google search "how to repair the Aquarite mainboard" or "Aquarite no cell power". Thanks

[@johnduncan7677]

@@wanakosabe2093 exactly right! I had replaced the thermistor months ago, and it was visibly loose from a bad solder joint. Fixed now. Thanks again!

[@fosters032381]

Hello, I have this same board, but have a different problem. Power light/LED comes on but the generating LED is not. I ended up replacing the main PCB which did fix it. I have replaced the current limiter before but I believe that is when the power LED is not lit up. I would like to repair the board but I have come up short on info. Any help would be appreciated.

[@wanakosabe2093]

Did you mean the generating LED does not come on at all or it does but briefly? Run the pump, move the switch to "Auto" and turn on the AC power to the swcg. The "No Flow" indicator should flash for 1 minute, followed by the "Generating LED". And 10 seconds later, you should hear the relay click. Sequentially push the Diagnostic button within 50 seconds after the relay clicked. Please post the diagnostic readings.

[@manuelcastro7833]

Hi can you help me with diagram for thw wires to haword rectifiers on top right in the box [glx]

[@wanakosabe2093]

There are schematic diagrams floating around. Troublefreepool has wealth of knowledge waiting for you to unleash. Google Search should yield plenty of hits. See if the below link works. Otherwise, you have to do the leg work. Thanks! Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading | Trouble Free Pool www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG www.troublefreepool.com/threads/fuse-keeps-blowing-on-hayward-swim-pure-salt-water-panel.235066/

[@thepoolguy351]

Where can I but the part for the aqua troll rj board

[@wanakosabe2093]

Please take a moment to read the description box. Thank you and hope this helps you fix your Aquatrol mainboard.

[@grafx-3signsrentals187]

Where could I get the U13 Part# MAX809JTRG ?

[@wanakosabe2093]

Please see the description box. Thank you!

[@grafx-3signsrentals187]

@@wanakosabe2093 all good, found it at Newark Canada. The semiconductor MAX809JTRG micro processor costs about $1, better than $365 for a complete mother board which is what the manufacturer wants of course. Thank you again for the very informative video.

[@wanakosabe2093]

@@grafx-3signsrentals187 You are welcome. Glad I could help.

[@miguelgonzalez-eh5ej]

OKAY HOW YOU KNOW THAT PARTS NO GOOD , AND ALSO WHERE YOU BUY THIS PARTS

[@wanakosabe2093]

An input current is present in the device but is not passing through at no load. Electricity can kill. Please do the smart thing, take a moment to read the description. Thank you!

[@wanakosabe2093]

@Anibal_Torres The Aquarite sw r1.59 and the Aquatrol sw r1.47 share the same PCB template. This can be easily identified by the presence of the small relay above the R15 negative post or below the black disc on the top right-hand corner of the pcb. Other than that, you need to push the diagnostic button on the left-hand side of the display. Provided your system is working. The TFP wiki section might help you > www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG#Aquarite_No_Lights_and_No_Display

[@SonyaBe748]

This is way too complicated...