Thank you for the video! Very easy fix!

How did you manage to get it off though, I have a ring just like your black one where it says easy fuel and I have no idea how to get it off to take off the rest of the door

There is a part to replace the shaft with a metal one that does have a retaining pin on the back side for a permanent fix. On Amazon. Great video though, most comprehensive I have seen.

This is exactly what happened to my 2019 F-150 Now I know it doesn't need to be replaced. Although popping the spring back into place was definitely the hardest part of this issue which I ended up taking the part out of my truck to get the spring on.

This was a great video! Thank you!

Perfect! Worked just as you said! The door part fell off and I thought I broke it but was able to line it back up in to position. Thanks for the great education.

I thought it had something to do with the card being full. Thanks for the video.

I thought it had something to do with the card being full. Thanks for the video.

Thank you I was very helpful. I have a 2014.

Wow thankyou

Great information on the cause and repair. There's an aluminum replacement stem with a washer and cotter pin for $13 on Amazon to replace that plastic stem the spring connects to... permanent solution!

Don’t touch the bulb

Super duper, thank you just took me maybe 5 minutes total to do this...super easy fix...glad I did need to take the whole assembly out. Again, great job, bro.

Thank you!

Great video, but it seems that wasn’t my only issue. After reformatting it continues to power down unless using the cigar lighter cable, the smart wire kit seems to be the issue

Thank you very much for your video it was the exact problem I had and you made it very easy to understand.

Trims removed 19:01

Will anyone explain how they got the spring back in ?? I have been trying for 30 minutes and it will not go back in. Thanks in advance

Thank you. I found it was easier to attach the clip with the door free to open, than held shut. Thanks again!

It is very helpful, I repaired mine watching your video, thank you

It did help me too. Thanks

Thanks for the advice. Bought a used 2018 F150 for my son that had the same problem. Poor engineering design with that pivot arm popping out all the time. The difficult part is resetting the spring from underneath the truck. Took me several tries to finally get it seated.

I wonder why he dd not continue doing the repaur as he said at the beginning of the vudeo. Whixh was that this repair xould ve done without taking out the gas door piece. No thx

GIVE ALL AMERICANS $2,000 DOLLARS A MONTH FOR EVERYONE GOOD MORNING AMERICA 🇺🇸

Juast fixed mine thanks to you! So easy.

Thank you

The part you cut out…getting that GD clip back on is literally the hardest part. The pin the spring connects to is now broken. Trip to the dealer now. Now I know why you cut that part out. Thanks!

Thanks for the great and simple video. Just went and reformatted my sd card. Really hope it works. Thanks again

I’m so happy that I found this video….. I had my F-150 into the dealer for a different issue and I mentioned this exact problem to the service tech and I was told that it would be $330 to repair this problem. It took me about 3 minutes total to make the repair, and that includes getting the right tools out. Thank you!!

Does this works with Rexing v33 dash cam too

This worked perfectly on the first try! I have the Rexing 3-dashcam set up. You just have to be quick about it as stated in the video! Great, thank you!

I'm currently having this exact issue. Thanks for sharing your experience

Lol thanks for the info but cutting away before reinstalling the spring is hilarious. Getting that spring back on from under the truck is really hard

You actually want the tap to go to the hot side, NOT the draw side; otherwise, current for your auxiliary device is going through both your auxiliary fuse and the fuse protecting the car component(s), which is not what you want. Putting the tap on the draw side makes the circuit series rather than parallel. You want the fuses to be parallel such that blowing a fuse on one circuit will not affect the other circuit. Great video, aside from that little note!

That's one hick of an instruction video (specially for people with less car knowledge like me). One suggestion is to use a measuring tape to fish the wire in one go from teh front to the back.

Mine is doing a thing where it says something along the lines of acc powering down, shutting off. It also started telling me I have parking files to check although I've formatted the SD and have nothing I'm aware of. V1P Max, does anyone know what might be causing these issues?

Great!

Thanks but it also would of been helpful to explain how to get the spring back on but watch another video for that. Still thanks for the help.

GOOD MORNING AMERICA 🇺🇸

Thank you for explaining how the functionality was compromised which ensured me this was the correct video I must continue to watch. Thanks for your time and effort.

Great video! Instead of using the coat hanger, I bought a set of fiberglass wire running rods from Harbor Freight that screw together to create any length you need. The whole kit was only 5 or 6 dollars and are worth their weight in gold! Also, to be able to gain better access to the area above the headliner in the rear seat area, I removed the B pillar plastic mounding. A little more work, but well worth the effort.

I've had to do this 3 times. Do you have a "fix" for the sneaky pin that keeps worling itself out?

He talks for 9 1/2 minutes before he begins the install so skip to 9:27 if that's what you're here for

Some hardwire kits come with a module that allows you to wire it in to a constant fuse and one to a switched fuse and the module will have a switch on it that cuts it off when the battery gets to a certain voltage. Having it wired like this gives you a longer time that your camera will stay on in parking mode. You also don’t have to remove all that trim to hide your wires either

So basically go under and push the pin in. Thank you.

Great video

Thanks. You saved me a trip to the dealer. One difference in my case was when I was twisting the lever trying to align the lands with the grooves, the exterior door kept swinging open. There was enough friction that the door wouldn't stay closed, so I used some duct tape to secure the door. The one thing I would add for the folks out in KZbinland is to go underneath once a year and give it a tap so you can avoid having to do this again. If it backed out once, it's going to back out again. It's quite obvious this would be a non-issue if Ford would put a locking device on the lever the first place. Yet another example of corporate greed and some bean counter wanting to save half a cent per unit.

Thank you so much for this video. My 2015 F150 had this exact problem. I was able to repair it, although I struggled getting the spring back on as I am no longer a young man. Did get some vice grips on the spring in the correct orientation and was able to get more torque on the spring while it stayed in the correct alignment. Thanks again.

This worked very well. I caught the part of placing the spring in the grove and using the electrical pliers to rotate the spring in place and real quickly finished.

How did you get the spring attached back to the tab?