you forgot the brass button on the locking screw to protect the threads on the live centre.......

Did you consider taking the standoffs of off the knee and taking 80-100th off of them on the lathe vs packing the other side with spacers. I only ask because I hate spacers, fiddling with them and remembering which ones go where.

Question.. How did you take the compound off (10:10).What holds it onto the cross slide?

That's not a live centre. The live centre is the one that fits into the headstock. What you have is a rotating centre. I say this from a UK perpective, but I've never seen an engineering book say otherwise.

Looking good Greg. Definitely a challenging design problem, but nicely solved.

Things designed as you go seem to turn out better in the end, because a journey of learning and inspiration is involved. Using CAD is just not as creative as seeing it take shape in real life. Looking good. --Doozer

You have really tried to think this through and it is coming along nicely. Can't wait to see the finish.

Nice job mate 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

Nice job! I think your welding looked good and functional.

A comment for the algorithm. Nice job

great work thanks for the video

Greg, great video! I share a love of the old south bends as well and old iron in general! I’ve got a heavy 10 and a 4.5ft 9A under restoration right now but this pesky thing called building a house has put that all on hold at the moment lol. Look forward to seeing more videos and hopefully getting my channel off the ground one of these days. Might have to bend your ear on some things.

Thanks for a good video. There are plenty of music videos on KZbin. I suggest keeping your videos as is and if we want music, we can find it.

G'day Greg. You'll love that DRO once it's fitted and up and running. I fitted a Ditron D80 to my little combination mill and have never looked back. Cheers, Aaron.

Does it self eject? If not you could replace that plug in the end with an ejector

I like how they're shallow depth as well. But boy are those things expensive new. Got myself an old 520 at an okayish price, but it's probably 60 years old so I'm giving it a light restoration. Here's how I'm doing mine if anyone is interested. For the felt, I've found that it's easy enough to remove by soaking in Goo Gone, or rubbing alcohol and just scraping it off with a plastic scraper tool. To apply new felt the way I do it is cutting the felt in a "U" shape and adding 2 strips to the missing sides after. I don't even pre-cut to size, I using the edge of the drawer and a hobby knife at an angle to get straight lines. To tackle paint touch up, what I did was scrub with Comet/Ajax powdered cleaner, this will take some of the paint off and probably some of it to bare metal where it's been dinged. And then I go at it with some Evapo-Rust if needed. The scrubbing will remove the grime and allow for better paint adhesion, from there I just mask and fog it with a rattle can. Getting the texture that the box originally had I've heard can be tricky but I've yet to get to that point yet. I had trouble getting the rust off the latches and handle trim, so my plan is to just go at it with a rotary tool and wool/felt bits and some compound followed by Brasso. Can't tell which is more amazing, the fact that you can still get new replacement parts for those boxes or that they sell the paint for $40 a can. Mine had that dark brown felt which looked grimey to me, and the green I've seen some reminded me of grass or a MineCraft dirt block so I went with a lighter brown. For my particular box ) same as the type in the video the code for the key is on the back of the lock cylinder e.g. K123 so it's easy enough to get a key replaced thankfully.

I sold you the tap handles at Arnfest, I didn’t know you were famous. I just started watching your channel and I subscribed.

It was nice to clean that live ctr. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and although it doesn’t get much use it’s very handy. Good video as always. Gilles

As far as ultrasonic cleaners if I had a $1,000 bearing set I wouldn't clean them in one but asset of wheel bearings off my car no problem

Hello how are you, I am from Argentina and the Horo company continues to manufacture rotating points I even have one on my lathe and they are of very good quality, that seems to be quite old. I was surprised that it was quite complex inside, good video!!

Watchmakers top tip. Lol fill the ultrasonic with water and use a small glass jar to put your parts in with whatever ever cleaner/ degreaser you use lid the jar. Water doesn't get contaminated, and if it does, it's just water.

That brake cleaner is really bad for you heath you shouldn't get it on your skin or breath it if possible. mineral spirits is safer . Neat trick with the bag .your parts turned out really good how long did you clean them for. did you see Keith Fenner bed getting ground .

I am a recent subscriber and now an ardent follower. To be truthful, I was casually aware of your channel but was put off by the name of the channel. Then I saw the video of your visit with Kyle at Vanover. Now I am here. You are doing the things that I have done and want to do. Keep up the good work. No judgement, only support!

I heard that if you put a piece of red lighting gel on top of the readout, this is supposed to filter out the red light, so you see just the bright light. I'm fairly almost certain this will work.

Nice video. Same approach that I would use.

It won't be long before you want a larger ultrasonic cleaner. My first was a 16 liter and after seeing how great they work I wanted one large enough to for much larger parts so now I have a 30 liter also. BTW, I use white vinegar in a jar or plastic bag and it works great at removing rust and it's cheap and reusable. Any tooling I get made in China gets disassembled and run through the cleaner. It' amazing how much crap is in there. Thanks for the video

A red filter will make the displays visible (see technology connections, and clough42 they had the same problems)

Looks like you need to scare up some brass punches. Or make something with a narrow brass end and a broader steel end for hammering on.

Hope your successfully . your wife has a great collection. If there's a bunch of grease you should wash it in solvent first . JM

I have very, very similar looking live centers made by polish company named Bison.

👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

I hope you show something on the cleaning of the albums.

Another related cleaning machine that is really nice in the shop is a electro rust remover. Simply a tank of appropriate size, a DC power supply, table salt, water, some wire and clips. Simply put a rusty part in the salt water tank, connect positive to the part and negative to a sacrificial steel electrode. This can remove and restore seriously rusty parts.

Never put bearings into an ultrasonic cleaner, everyone on KZbin started doing it for some reason and it is wrong, bearings should only be washed by hand.

Hi there from New Zealand I'm liking what I see very much I too am like yourself I could buy tools but enjoy building them and coping with the issues it's a challenge in life One day I'll have a go at this fusion 360 but I'm not good with computers

Interesting project. Looking forward to see how it all turns out.

Looks like a good plan, A lot of head scratching for sure 👍👍

52 videos doesn't sound like a number that should start with only. If you don't mind, what is the division between income from ads vs KZbin premium viewers?

I am watching this.!.!.! I have a 2CH that I want to add a DRO to some day. Thanks! --Doozer

The old machines are works of art, but there are few flat and parallel areas for sure. Looking good.

Great work on making the mounts for the bracket, RIP Mr. Tap.

In fact, it is difficult. I faced the same problem with some old milling machine. excellent work, and I wish you success

Spiral flute taps have a nasty habit of not wanting to break the chip if they are too deep and you wanna take them out. it if not helped by the the fact that the flutes are full of chips that can also bind and case the tap to break. If you feel any resistance, work it back and forth I have tapped hundreds of holes in a turret lathe with spiral taps and all of them broke when was about to pull them out. it was faster and cheaper to scrap one part and get every single second from the tap than to potentially replace it early and risk it still having a few holes of life left in it. Economy

Greg, I use the spiral flute taps every chance I get. Something that has worked pretty good for me is to drill the hole just a tad larger than the recommended diameter. I do have one 1/4 x 20 spiral flute tap that always makes tight threads so I need to trash it . Sure better to trash a tap before trashing the part the tap just broke off in. LOL In the case of mounting the scale a slightly larger tap hole diameter would not be a concern for me. Thanks for bringing us along. I tried to watch this video earlier today and You Tube kept taking me to some weird page trying to explain the rules on Pre-Teen videos. I guess the problem worked itself out.

When they designed the K&T back in the 1930's they didn't put much thought into how the glass scales would mount. No really good way to do it but it looks like your plan will work.

Nice job Greg! This is definitely a tricky machine to mount a DRO on!

Looks complicated

I use spiral bottoming taps at work all the time. I hate them. The plus is they tap to the bottom of the hole. The minus is they're more brittle and easier to break. I'd rather drill my hole deeper where it's possible to avoid having to use a bottoming tap.

You got lucky on the broken tap. They almost never leave you enough to grab.

Great idea with the standoffs...