Thank you… now just have to swim across 😂

I’m trying to remember, but I think it was fairly immediate.

@@MotoMaximusThanks, Drove it for a few miles this morning and the lights are still on. So far changed the aux batt, vacuum hose not sure what is next maybe the sensor on the brake booster. I also tested the vac pump off the the Jeep and it runs and pull a strong vacuum, but on the Jeep plugged in to the connector it does not run with the Jeep running so it not getting power so check the fuse and it is good not sure what else I can check any ideas? Thanks

@ some guys reported the bus needing to be replaced behind the glove box. Perhaps that is why the pump is not being triggered to turn on. It definitely should be cycling on and off upon start up.

Werkes USA

18k, is it still under warranty? May not be a bad idea to check on that first. Maybe a wheel speed sensor got loose which cause cause similar issues. That system pretty much says that if there is a failure of any sort, shut the whole system down. Kinda crazy, but that’s how it works. Also, check code scanner to see if it points to something specific.

instagram.com/reel/DApmOpKgnBh/?igsh=Y3pzeGpyYmUyNzZv

On right turns counter steering and momentum are you best friends. If you go too slow the bike will want to fall over, so keep the speed up just a bit. Beginners typically have a fear of leaning and end up sticking their leg out. So I would recommend working on this as well - you don’t need to make u-turns to work on leaning. Just take some nice, gradual turns at 10-15mph but lean in.

Mr George got a speeding ticket in that very spot 1 month later

Power brake booster sensor: 68053596AA store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-brake-booster-check-valve-68053596aa?c=Zz1icmFrZXMmcz1wb3dlci1icmFrZS1ib29zdGVyJmw9NSZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWplZXAmbz13cmFuZ2xlciZ5PTIwMjEmdD11bmxpbWl0ZWQtd2lsbHlzJmU9Mi0wbC1sNC1nYXM%3D

Vacuum will not cause an issue with it not starting without keyfob. In your case I would start with the aux battery, then go from there.

@@MotoMaximus if i dont push the break pedal it will start. If i push the break pedal and the push button not start. I already replaced both batteries, can bus connector, brake pedal sensor, starter and RF radio frequency hub.

The last thing i have replaced was the break pedal sensor, i start the jeep for 3 weeks only with the key fob and starts every time.

@@hrgp13 after starting, do you hear the vacuum pump cycling on and off? Have you tried removing the vacuum line by the booster to see if there is suction there?

@@MotoMaximus haven’t have put attention if the pump comes on. I haven’t remove the hose line. I just ordered the hose line this morning. Ill remove the hose tomorrow and check if there any suction.

Check the fuse box too, make sure nothing is loose.

Yup, done that trip a few times now. It’s pretty epic.

Thanks man. Definitely was not sleeping on that trip, was way too alert. Too spooky at night haha. As for the stabilizers, for me, they were a good idea and worked well. The comments I received were that I should have learned to roll back over instead of relying on stabilizers. However, if the conditions were bad, especially at night, rolling over with gear on the boat may have been a bit difficult to say the least. It’s something that one should know how to do, but in a solo open water crossing - the game is a bit different than being close to shore. I think that’s what folks underestimate.

some guys recommended checking the contacts/bus strip behind the glove box.. it’s a cheap part and could also be causing similar issues. www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/wires-connectors-behind-glovebox.64059/

I still got the lights, so the only missing thing i can do is changing de check? I changed to a new pump and a new hose (oem both) and still have issues

​@@MotoMaximusthank you sir i will check that.. do you think the fuses also can be the problem?

yes, the fuses and the fuse box itself to make sure there is no corrosion

@@MotoMaximus what about the pump sensor, was it a common part of the issue?

And do you think there’s any problem with using an aftermarket sensor, hose line, vacuum pump, etc?

68053596AA nothing wrong with using aftermarket stuff, but you may as well use OEM mopar parts since there shouldn’t be much of a price difference. The only exception is the pump, which may be harder to get in OEM and will be pricier. Chances are, the pump is fine.. simply start the car, unplug the vacuum line, put your finger over the intake line to the pump and wait for it to kick on. If there is suction, then it should be fine.

Appreciate. Any idea which fuse control the pump?

@matthewwallace6028 should be F35 www.wayalife.com/threads/fuse-box-jl-wrangler-quick-reference-chart.53079/

Hey again, so I finally got the parts. Did you replace the intermediary line between the sensor and the vacuum line? That small section of line will be the only part I am not replacing.

You can definitely learn on your, at your pace and without the stress of others. Good luck, safe riding and shoot a note when you have been at it for a few months. 🤘🤘

Hehe, I’m not a pro shop with gear of all sizes. =) One day maybe. 👍

I agree with everything minus the Ride mode. It takes verryyy little effort to react to the differences between modes and get used to them. for me stuff like that takes 5 mins tops and it's as if it was back to normal.

Technically he was in D mode, lowest throttle response. This is to prevent unintended wheel hops. Newer riders tend to punch the throttle sometimes and this is a great way to dull things down. A rider can progress through modes when they get comfortable. No, it does not take much time to adjust to the different modes if you have been on the bike a while. In fact, on the newer R1 I prefer my response to be in B mode with the power up at max as this gives me more control when on tight turns when I don’t want my throttle to be jerky. On other bikes I find the throttle to be less responsive by default in comparison to the R1. Riding posture is fine and no the elbows were not locked out. Wrists were mostly straight with the levers in the most upright position. I’ve never punched the throttle when reaching for my brake in 20 years of riding. In fact i always have 2-3 fingers over my brake lever at all times like this 👌 I never hold it like this ✊ It has always worked really well for me. As for shoe laces, ya he could have tucked them in, or wore Velcros, maybe even wore crocks next time. 😸

5’10”

Jealousy doesn’t either 👍

​@@MotoMaximus It's great how inflated your ego is, that you think it's jealousy from my side because you're stupid enough to use an R1 as a learner bike. Do better old man.

He gonna be fine if he stay in low rpm bruh. Stop pocket watching and go ride

​@mikeycarrera1921 Nobody is riding an R1 to stay in the low RPM bro. Idgaf what he rides but this idea of 'just don't exceed XX' is delusional

@wlt3585 this is where you tell us that a 600cc bike is safer than a 1000cc 😂 😂 My friend, you can kill yourself just as fast on a 300cc bike if you don’t have the basics down. I’ve already stated many times before that I don’t recommend starting on a liter bike, but doesn’t mean you couldn’t. I always dial the power and throttle response down to make it a bit easier for the noobies. 👍👍